(Topic ID: 230869)

CSI blowing F10 fuse

By Gunnut40

5 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Gunnut40
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 years ago

Hello pinside. I turn on my machine and it blows f10 fuse instantly. I have researched the problem here and this what I did. I unplugged all the connectors from power supply board(not the molex). The fuse still blew instantly. LTG says that this a bad bridge. I traced F10 to the bottom right bridge with a heatsink. I plan ordering a new one from macros and replacing it.
If y'all have any advice or any words of wisdom that would be great.

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#2 5 years ago
Quoted from Gunnut40:

If y'all have any advice or any words of wisdom that would be great.

I'd pull the board and put a meter on the suspect bridge rectifier, if shorted you know for sure.

LTG : )

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd pull the board and put a meter on the suspect bridge rectifier, if shorted you know for sure.
LTG : )

Oh yeah testing...oops. I tested all of them for some odd reason 3 of the five were bad. I wonder why more fuses where not blown? This what I plan on ordering.

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#4 5 years ago
Quoted from Gunnut40:

I tested all of them for some odd reason 3 of the five were bad. I wonder why more fuses where not blown?

You were testing them in circuit. I'd just replace the dead shorted one.

LTG : )

#5 5 years ago

Do you need the spade lug ones like in your picture, or wire lead ones ?

LTG : )

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from Gunnut40:

I traced F10 to the bottom right bridge with a heatsink.

Quoted from LTG:

Do you need the spade lug ones like in your picture, or wire lead ones ?

It seems the correct rectifier with spades, and I'm quite sure that it is not the bottom right with heatsink but the rectifier just below F9 and F10.

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#7 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You were testing them in circuit. I'd just replace the dead shorted one.
LTG : )

You are correct. Apparently testing boards at 3:00 in morning is no good. Just retested all good but one.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Do you need the spade lug ones like in your picture, or wire lead ones ?
LTG : )

Not sure I'll desoder before I order.

#9 5 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

It seems the correct rectifier with spades, and I'm quite sure that it is not the bottom right with heatsink but the rectifier just below F9 and F10.
[quoted image]

Yep I was wrong. I'm not sure how I got so far off following a trace.

1 week later
#10 5 years ago

Grrrr.... replaced the bridge but I pulled up some non trace removing the bridge. Now I'm not blowing a fuse or getting any power to the 20v. Any ideas or do I have to order a new board?

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3 weeks later
#11 5 years ago

Issue resolved...I bought another board from K's arcade. I checked for any dead shorts/bad coils before installing. The original board did have other issues....centrifuge lock gate would not stay up and the GI's. would not go out at the start of mutiball. Yeah I fucked that board up....practice on old boards do it first for the love of God!!!!!

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