(Topic ID: 230869)

CSI blowing F10 fuse

By Gunnut40

3 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Gunnut40
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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5249 F10 br2 (resized).jpg
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#1 3 years ago

Hello pinside. I turn on my machine and it blows f10 fuse instantly. I have researched the problem here and this what I did. I unplugged all the connectors from power supply board(not the molex). The fuse still blew instantly. LTG says that this a bad bridge. I traced F10 to the bottom right bridge with a heatsink. I plan ordering a new one from macros and replacing it.
If y'all have any advice or any words of wisdom that would be great.

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#2 3 years ago
Quoted from Gunnut40:

If y'all have any advice or any words of wisdom that would be great.

I'd pull the board and put a meter on the suspect bridge rectifier, if shorted you know for sure.

LTG : )

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd pull the board and put a meter on the suspect bridge rectifier, if shorted you know for sure.
LTG : )

Oh yeah testing...oops. I tested all of them for some odd reason 3 of the five were bad. I wonder why more fuses where not blown? This what I plan on ordering.

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#4 2 years ago
Quoted from Gunnut40:

I tested all of them for some odd reason 3 of the five were bad. I wonder why more fuses where not blown?

You were testing them in circuit. I'd just replace the dead shorted one.

LTG : )

#5 2 years ago

Do you need the spade lug ones like in your picture, or wire lead ones ?

LTG : )

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from Gunnut40:

I traced F10 to the bottom right bridge with a heatsink.

Quoted from LTG:

Do you need the spade lug ones like in your picture, or wire lead ones ?

It seems the correct rectifier with spades, and I'm quite sure that it is not the bottom right with heatsink but the rectifier just below F9 and F10.

5249 F10 br2 (resized).jpg

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You were testing them in circuit. I'd just replace the dead shorted one.
LTG : )

You are correct. Apparently testing boards at 3:00 in morning is no good. Just retested all good but one.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Do you need the spade lug ones like in your picture, or wire lead ones ?
LTG : )

Not sure I'll desoder before I order.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

It seems the correct rectifier with spades, and I'm quite sure that it is not the bottom right with heatsink but the rectifier just below F9 and F10.
[quoted image]

Yep I was wrong. I'm not sure how I got so far off following a trace.

1 week later
#10 2 years ago

Grrrr.... replaced the bridge but I pulled up some non trace removing the bridge. Now I'm not blowing a fuse or getting any power to the 20v. Any ideas or do I have to order a new board?

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3 weeks later
#11 2 years ago

Issue resolved...I bought another board from K's arcade. I checked for any dead shorts/bad coils before installing. The original board did have other issues....centrifuge lock gate would not stay up and the GI's. would not go out at the start of mutiball. Yeah I fucked that board up....practice on old boards do it first for the love of God!!!!!

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