(Topic ID: 193276)

Cross Town Project (Finished)


By Silverstreak02

1 year ago



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  • 173 posts
  • 28 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by Insane
  • Topic is favorited by 14 Pinsiders

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There are 173 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 4.
#1 1 year ago

My latest project is this Cross Town from 1966. It hasn't seen any love lately so I plan to change that. I will do a cabinet repaint first followed by cleaning all the mechanicals and then finally paint and clear for the playfield. This will be my first complete restore. Wish me luck.

#2 1 year ago

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#3 1 year ago

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#4 1 year ago

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#5 1 year ago

I sanded the cabinet and applied bondo. It's ready for primer.

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#6 1 year ago

If there are any specific pictures you need for anything, let me know. Mine is set up and running. Y9our BG doesn't look too bad except around the numbers. Mine, the girls faces in the window are missing some.

#7 1 year ago

Thanks for the offer. I may need some pictures of the cabinet to recreate the stripes. Mine was repainted white at some point, but they didn't put the stripes back on. Send a PM, but no rush. Thanks again.

#8 1 year ago

I replaced the bottom panel and put two coats of primer on the cabinet. I still need to prime the bottom.

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#9 1 year ago

Definitely a project lol! I'd love to see pics of the final masterpiece. Good luck.

#10 1 year ago

This is the first coat of Dover White.

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#11 1 year ago

I put the last coat of white on it today. The paint covered evenly, but has a rough surface. I sanded between each primer and paint coat so I'm surprised. I've never used the Krylon Fusion paint before, but it's supposed to be glossy. I believe I'll need to do more sanding. Does anyone have a suggestion?

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#12 1 year ago

Krylon Fusion paint is normally for plastic surfaces as I understand. Not sure how it will apply to wood.

#13 1 year ago

Nice splatter! Oh wait, it's just my dirty screen.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Krylon Fusion paint is normally for plastic surfaces as I understand. Not sure how it will apply to wood.

It is also for wood. It has a nice fan spray.

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#15 1 year ago
Quoted from johninc:

Nice splatter! Oh wait, it's just my dirty screen.

I played around with splatter on a piece of cardboard. I'm not sure if I like it.

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3 weeks later
#16 1 year ago

I ran into a small setback today. I found a crack in the side of the cabinet. The cabinet sat in my hot and humid garage during the paint process and was then moved into the house. The cabinet was fine when I brought it in, but developed the crack after a few weeks in the house. I guess the change in humidity and temperature affected the wood.

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#17 1 year ago

I finished removing everything from the top of the playfield. I still need to clean it, but it is in worse shape than I thought. I hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew.

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#18 1 year ago

I cleaned it today.

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1 week later
#19 1 year ago

We are currently doing a Central park that is almost as bad as yours. Looking at your playfield, the worst section looks to the the centre left side. How do you plan to tackle that? Scan, Photoshop, water-slide and clearcoat?

I've seen one CT with similar wear to yours and it looked terrible after somebody tried painting it by hand. Indeed, it looked worse and better left in it's worn state!

Good luck with it anyway

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from Classicpinballs:

We are currently doing a Central park that is almost as bad as yours. Looking at your playfield, the worst section looks to the the centre left side. How do you plan to tackle that? Scan, Photoshop, water-slide and clearcoat?
I've seen one CT with similar wear to yours and it looked terrible after somebody tried painting it by hand. Indeed, it looked worse and better left in it's worn state!
Good luck with it anyway

My hands aren't steady enough to do much hand painting. I'm trying to purchase a cheap scanner and if I'm successful I'll buy a photoshop program and try to make water slide decals. So far I'm not having any luck and honestly I don't want to spend hundreds on the equipment needed to buy new stuff. My latest thought is to use leather punches to make a stencil for that area. I'll use an airbrush for 90% of the painting and I will clearcoat. This project is way more challenging than I originally thought, but I'm taking one step at a time.

#21 1 year ago

This is how I fixed the puckered wood by the left flipper.

Fixed

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#22 1 year ago

I'm sure you probably know the flippers in the original photos are incorrect (should be 2" flippers), but also the shooter is the wrong style.
Your game has the earlier "beehive" type of shooter bezel on it. The correct type is shown here. http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=601&picno=66287&zoom=1 The shooter rod is longer for the "beehive" bezel, so just getting the correct bezel won't work. Good work so far. I don't think I would have painted the entire interior of the cabinet though. Sealing both sides of the wood with paint may have been a contributing factor in the development of the split, but who knows.

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

I'm sure you probably know the flippers in the original photos are incorrect (should be 2" flippers), but also the shooter is the wrong style.
Your game has the earlier "beehive" type of shooter bezel on it. The correct type is shown here. http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=601&picno=66287&zoom=1 The shooter rod is longer for the "beehive" bezel, so just getting the correct bezel won't work. Good work so far. I don't think I would have painted the entire interior of the cabinet though. Sealing both sides of the wood with paint may have been a contributing factor in the development of the split, but who knows.

I'd be happy if that was the only things wrong. By the looks of these items, the missing parts and the wiring hacks I believe this may have been used as a parts machine at some point. I'll need to find a new coin door, coin plate, tilt bob, knocker and coin chute among the usual wear items. I'll have a big order for PBR at some point.

#24 1 year ago

I repaired a delaminated section on the face of the back box and then sanded, bondo, and more sanding has me ready for the first coat of primer.

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#25 1 year ago

Noble work and a worthy game.

#26 1 year ago

Great game. We have one in our basement

#27 1 year ago

Everyone laments the wide flipper gap, shared by "Subway" and "Flipper Fair" as well. It's part of the game design, and a good player will learn the angles and how to beat the game. The 300 point target shot is very satisfying; maybe more so than the special. I just love all three versions of this playfield design.

#28 1 year ago

It's too hot and humid to do any painting so I decided to start replacing the plastic inserts. I'm doing all of them except the top 4. that have numbers in them. They are cupped badly, but I can't find replacements. I cut along the edges and then used a hair dryer to heat them. Once they were hot I used a socket to push them out from the back side. It took longer to heat than I thought, but they eventually came out. As usual I created some extra work. The top layer of ply split near three of the inserts. The other holes are fine. I'll need to use my C clamp and wood glue again to fix the separated plies. Check out the color difference between the old and new inserts.

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#29 1 year ago

I pulled a few parts out of the tumbler tonight.

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#30 1 year ago

I fixed the peeled ply areas with my trusty C clamp and wood glue. Look closely at the area between the 200 and 300 inserts on the left. It's hard to tell that section was completely loose.

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#31 1 year ago

I love this game because of the random things that can happen. My favorite is when the ball comes off the slingshot and goes up the right or left side lanes to the top (1 and 2 or 3 and 4) when the special is lite for 2 games. What a rush. I also like the shot from the flipper to the 1 or 4 pop bumper which hits just once matching up the center target for 50, 100, 200, 300, or special rebounding off the pop bumper into the center target scoring that value. This sometimes even happens when the ball comes off the slingshots. Simple rules that make for a exciting game.

#32 1 year ago

Dammit, now I have to go out to the workshop, find my 2 Crosstown and go to work.

#33 1 year ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

I pulled a few parts out of the tumbler tonight.

Those are pretty. when I did mine, I tumbled all the backbox parts and made them pretty and shiny like that. It looks good.

#34 1 year ago

More parts came out of the tumbler today.

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#35 1 year ago

Next batch for the tumbler.

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#36 1 year ago

I put the first coat of primer on the back box. A little disappointing. I have a lot of small seam cracks that need to be filled. I didn't see them until the primer went on.

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4 weeks later
#37 1 year ago

I installed the new inserts with plastic primer and epoxy.

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#38 1 year ago

More bondo and sanding was followed with two coats of white. Does anyone sell stencils for the crosstown?

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#39 1 year ago

I scanned the entire playfield with my new used HP4670 scanner. It's a pretty cool device. I hope to make some decals using these scans, but will need a photoshop program and the ability to use it. Hopefully someone can help with that. I printed one section on my scanjet printer for grins. It looks pretty close.

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3 weeks later
#40 1 year ago

I finally got around to cleaning the backglass and applying triple thick. The triple thick came out fine and now the glass is protected. I'll need to do some touch up around the score reels. That should be interesting.

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#41 1 year ago

Not a great title, but man its so close. Artwork, playability, and of course value. This title comes so close to a great game. Worth the value and time, and of course fun. Enjoy it, keep us all posted on your progress.

#42 1 year ago

I bought some 2pac and filled the top four inserts. This worked much better than using spraymax. They are still slightly concave, but I will drop more 2pac in tomorrow. It cost $40 to fill the four inserts, but the results are worth it.

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#43 1 year ago

last time I checked, 2pac was dead.

#44 1 year ago

The first light coat of clear.

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1 week later
#45 1 year ago

I stripped the grey paint off the coin door and discovered a lot of rust. I put it in a tub of evap o rust and will hope for the best.

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#46 1 year ago

This is what it looks like after soaking for two days. Not real happy. I'm going to paint it.

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#47 1 year ago

Painted isn't as good as shiny new metal, but it came out OK.

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2 weeks later
#48 1 year ago

This is a before and after of the coin plate and apron. Lots of paint stripper and lots of evap o rust.

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#49 1 year ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

This is a before and after of the coin plate and apron. Lots of paint stripper and lots of evap o rust.

You can make that shooter rod and push up rod gleam by removing them and spinning them in a drill or metal lathe. Use fine steel wool first, then some Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish on a rag. I also spin the beehive housing and polish it with Novus 2 after toothbrushing it with Castrol Super Clean.
Nice work so far on a worthy game.

#50 1 year ago

Looking great..

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