When you say "end of game match not working", do you mean the single digit number isn't appearing on the back glass at the end of the game? Or is the number appearing on back glass, but not rewarding a replay for matching number in score reel at end of game?

The first thing I would check if the number isn't appearing on the back glass is the 0-9 unit, located in the back of the head. This 0-9 unit has a small one point bell attached to it. The match numbers work off of this 0-9 unit and this unit must be inspected with a close eye and bright light.

Make sure the tiny arrow shaped metal pointers sits and rides perfectly over these brass rivets as you manually step up the solenoid plunger by hand and check that there are are no broken wires on this 0-9 unit too, including any of the tiny jumper wires that are covered with a black thin material insulator on them. Sometimes these tiny jumper wires are broken off.

Also the brass rivets on the 0-9 unit might be worn out to point that the tiny arrow shape pointers that make contact with these brass rivets are not making contact. If so, you can rebuild these worn out brass rivets with a drop of solder on them temporarily unit you might be able to find and buy another better condition 0-9 unit. Over time the solder repair will wear out depending on how much you play your game.

Go here to view a video of standard Gottlieb 0-9 unit at

This video can help you trouble-shoot and repair most issues with a Gottlieb 0-9 unit.

To help out and make things easier with your issues on your Cross Town in the future....it would be great if you can snap a few clear detailed close up pictures of your 0-9 unit so we can view and possibly spot a potential problem and in the future what ever other issues you might want help with..... attaching a video of other problems you might be having. The more information the better.

I use swabs and 91# rubbing alcohol. And yes, make sure all those little wires are connected as they should be. Also pull on each "snowshoe" to make sure they're springy and making solid contact.

I don't know where this expression came from. Much more like an ice skate than a snowshoe!

There's a pin and socket which can enable or disable the match feature. Check this first. If the number isn't lighting on the backglass, this pin may be in the disabled (out) position. Look for it somewhere inside the backbox or on the main cabinet motor/relay board.

Another reason the match feature may not be working is the wiper contact in the ones score reel may be incorrectly installed. If you say this is "above your pay grade", you may want to find a local technician to check for this problem and fix it if necessary.

Yes, but it's smaller with only two sockets. You put the pin in either socket to enable or disable the match feature.

Is that match plug in upside down?

I think it is... it looks cattywampus

compare the drawing in the label.

...and the plug is torqued to defeat the jones plug key

Yes. Take the match plug out, turn it 180 degrees, and plug it back in on the same side, with the orange wire on top.

I first saw that term used in the Williams 1966 Parts catalog as the description for that type of unit. Instead of contact points on "fingers", note the shape of the spring-loaded, moveable contact face. It resembles a snow shoe of that era.
I did not see a Gottlieb part catalog until 1977 when I picked one up at the main Empire Distributing location (120 S. Sangamon in Chicago).

After doing this, manually toggle the 0-9 unit while the machine is in "game over", and see if any of the match numbers on the back glass light up or even just flicker. If you haven't already, you may want to make sure lamps are installed in those sockets, and check to see that they're good.

Looking again at the photo of your 0-9 unit, it sure looks to me like one of the small jumper wires between one set of the spring loaded contacts is missing. The pair should be jumpered together with a small piece of very light and supple wire. I imagine you probably don't solder. You may be able to get away with threading a small piece of wire through the small holes on the contact pins, and twisting the wire tightly so that it makes good contact with the pins. Make sure the pins can move freely and still make contact with the rivets on the fiber disc. The wire doesn't really need to be insulated. Use very fine limp wire if you can find it.
If you want to reveal your general location, maybe someone here can stop by and help you out.

Good catch, BTW.

Actually, I have a (1969) Mibs in my collection for the last 15 years and is quite a good player and for sure this game keeps you wanting to play another game. The back glass animation is always a nice added feature too.

Gottlieb also made two other games with the same identical playfield design layout and back glass animation, but have different back glasses and playfield artwork. These two other games are Bowling Queen and Rack a Ball both good players too, just ask anyone who has them in their collection.

I think you will be surprised, if you do get the Mibs how much you like it. The thing about Mibs is most people tend to not like the back glass artwork and it gets put down a bit and because Bowling Queen and Rack a Ball are more the collectors choice because of their artwork, which I agree on.

From your pic the stepper rivets still need to be polished to provide a smooth, resistance free contact surface-I use a dremel wire brush and then a smear of super lube to provide free movement of the wipers which also need to be centred on the rivets..

I use PBR grease but superlube (the brand name) is commonly used.

Use a VERY thin film of Superlube grease. I put the tiniest bit of it on my fingertip, and spread it over the entire circumference of the disc.

Let us know how the doors work out.

Replacement of those doors often comes up in these threads. To replicate the originals they are a kinda tricky sheetmetal operation with the activating brackets spot welded to the light guage doors. If you get a chance a couple of pics of the new doors unpainted would be great.

Oh thks. Thats a nice piece of fabrication. I erred not spotted but brackets rivetted.

Getting them right can, in my experience, take some patience. The spring is the sole source of return. I have found it critical that the runners be cleaned and waxed along with the doors so there is as little friction as possible, and make sure that the stops holding the elevator coil in place are horizontally in perfect alignment to avoid friction as the plungers return. You can test this alignment by manually opening the doors and observing their free closure. Once these issues are corrected the doors will close strongly every time.

You could try to nip off a tiny bit of the spring (maybe like three coils) with a pair of pliers, then reform the end into a new loop. This will increase the spring tension a bit.

I had a similar problem with mine. After messing around with the spring I noticed the metal arm was resting on the bracket as it went to the doors. This caused extra friction. I bent the arm so it was positioned in the middle of the slot instead of resting on the bottom. It closes very fast now.

Your backglass looks great. Mine has some faces partially gone. You can also get a spring assortment at Harbor Freight. Then play around to find one that works. I would start by snipping a few coils off, then making a new loop as was suggested above.

Hey
Just picked up a non working Gottlieb cross town pinball
I have the schematics but no manual if anyone can help out with the manual I thank you in advance.
Raff
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