(Topic ID: 257779)

Cross Town Match


By The--Who

5 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 40 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Insane
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 13 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

8D0122D6-0887-4A6A-B852-E69237862059 (resized).jpeg
53983C2D-C079-4AA3-9841-E147541C1A3A (resized).jpeg
9F0D3069-C28F-486D-86B2-841EFE4618DD (resized).jpeg
A2182A66-722B-4B52-9993-DA3409E04177 (resized).jpeg
2DB325D6-6AEB-4B6E-A2F3-5DD204EB99BB (resized).jpeg
1D664488-6929-4666-8B3E-274AB03D298E (resized).jpeg
C7D25F63-0D40-45B8-A370-952C9D2A03CD (resized).jpeg
38AD1744-F0A3-4999-8E12-AC0F705C08EE (resized).jpeg
D4E65FF6-4523-4B15-9F6A-F2D54CA57489 (resized).jpeg
8AB21A0F-AECB-4E35-96F8-D6E6B7ED8685 (resized).jpeg
B28CAEA8-92C7-47F0-90A1-2FF5FF787B6E (resized).jpeg
209826FB-F1DF-403A-9070-888D67F94C68 (resized).jpeg
DE1D38B4-C1EF-4BFD-891D-1BF42C45A524 (resized).jpeg

#1 5 months ago

I just picked up my first machine this week......Gottlieb’s Cross Town, one of my favorites as a kid. As a twelve year-old in 1965, I bought myself a Gottlieb Big Casino (for $30), but it was sold after getting married in 1975.

Cross Town works great other than the end of game number match not working. I have no clue where to even begin looking for a remedy, as the inner workings of these machines are way above my pay grade.

Can anybody help explain where I could begin looking for a problem?

#2 5 months ago

When you say "end of game match not working", do you mean the single digit number isn't appearing on the back glass at the end of the game? Or is the number appearing on back glass, but not rewarding a replay for matching number in score reel at end of game?

#3 5 months ago

Number does not appear on back glass, nor does a free game ever get added, even if the match function was working.

I’m hoping it is just disconnected, as that will be the only repair I can handle.......lol

#4 5 months ago

The first thing I would check if the number isn't appearing on the back glass is the 0-9 unit, located in the back of the head. This 0-9 unit has a small one point bell attached to it. The match numbers work off of this 0-9 unit and this unit must be inspected with a close eye and bright light.

Make sure the tiny arrow shaped metal pointers sits and rides perfectly over these brass rivets as you manually step up the solenoid plunger by hand and check that there are are no broken wires on this 0-9 unit too, including any of the tiny jumper wires that are covered with a black thin material insulator on them. Sometimes these tiny jumper wires are broken off.

Also the brass rivets on the 0-9 unit might be worn out to point that the tiny arrow shape pointers that make contact with these brass rivets are not making contact. If so, you can rebuild these worn out brass rivets with a drop of solder on them temporarily unit you might be able to find and buy another better condition 0-9 unit. Over time the solder repair will wear out depending on how much you play your game.

Go here to view a video of standard Gottlieb 0-9 unit at


This video can help you trouble-shoot and repair most issues with a Gottlieb 0-9 unit.

To help out and make things easier with your issues on your Cross Town in the future....it would be great if you can snap a few clear detailed close up pictures of your 0-9 unit so we can view and possibly spot a potential problem and in the future what ever other issues you might want help with..... attaching a video of other problems you might be having. The more information the better.

#5 5 months ago

Thanks for leading me through this.
I don’t know about the wear on the two rows of brass contacts inside the 0-9 unit, but they are definitely filthy and in need of cleaning. Any cleaning tips?

I’ll have to look at the little insulated black wires a bit closer when I get a chance..........got to go to work.

209826FB-F1DF-403A-9070-888D67F94C68 (resized).jpegB28CAEA8-92C7-47F0-90A1-2FF5FF787B6E (resized).jpegDE1D38B4-C1EF-4BFD-891D-1BF42C45A524 (resized).jpeg
#6 5 months ago
Quoted from The--Who:

Any cleaning tips?

I’ll have to look at the little insulated black wires a bit closer when I get a chance...

I use swabs and 91# rubbing alcohol. And yes, make sure all those little wires are connected as they should be. Also pull on each "snowshoe" to make sure they're springy and making solid contact.

#7 5 months ago

I don't know where this expression came from. Much more like an ice skate than a snowshoe!

#8 5 months ago
Quoted from The--Who:

Number does not appear on back glass, nor does a free game ever get added, even if the match function was working.
I’m hoping it is just disconnected, as that will be the only repair I can handle.......lol

There's a pin and socket which can enable or disable the match feature. Check this first. If the number isn't lighting on the backglass, this pin may be in the disabled (out) position. Look for it somewhere inside the backbox or on the main cabinet motor/relay board.

#9 5 months ago

Another reason the match feature may not be working is the wiper contact in the ones score reel may be incorrectly installed. If you say this is "above your pay grade", you may want to find a local technician to check for this problem and fix it if necessary.

#10 5 months ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

There's a pin and socket which can enable or disable the match feature. Check this first. If the number isn't lighting on the backglass, this pin may be in the disabled (out) position. Look for it somewhere inside the backbox or on the main cabinet motor/relay board.

Quoted from jrpinball:

There's a pin and socket which can enable or disable the match feature. Check this first. If the number isn't lighting on the backglass, this pin may be in the disabled (out) position. Look for it somewhere inside the backbox or on the main cabinet motor/relay board.

Is it a pin and socket similar to the ones you use to set free game scores?

#11 5 months ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Another reason the match feature may not be working is the wiper contact in the ones score reel may be incorrectly installed. If you say this is "above your pay grade", you may want to find a local technician to check for this problem and fix it if necessary.

Understood. My qualifications include lamp changing and glass cleaning, so I don’t venture into taking things apart.....lol.

I’m not too concerned about it, since all the games are free anyway, but I would like to get it to work eventually. I’ll wait for a major breakdown before having it looked at, but I am optimistic about how dirty it is and you guys suggestions possibly getting it going.

#12 5 months ago
Quoted from The--Who:

Is it a pin and socket similar to the ones you use to set free game scores?

Yes, but it's smaller with only two sockets. You put the pin in either socket to enable or disable the match feature.

#13 5 months ago

Removed a ton of black “tar” off the brass rivets and contacts, but still no luck. All the wires have a good connection to the contacts. Found the match feature setting in the main cabinet and it is on the “IN” setting.

Will give it another good cleaning after work tomorrow, but I’m afraid it is beyond my repair capabilities.

Thanks for all your help. You guys are fantastic!!!

Denny

38AD1744-F0A3-4999-8E12-AC0F705C08EE (resized).jpeg8AB21A0F-AECB-4E35-96F8-D6E6B7ED8685 (resized).jpegD4E65FF6-4523-4B15-9F6A-F2D54CA57489 (resized).jpeg
#14 5 months ago

Is that match plug in upside down?

#15 5 months ago

I think it is... it looks cattywampus

#16 5 months ago

compare the drawing in the label.

#17 5 months ago

...and the plug is torqued to defeat the jones plug key

#18 5 months ago

Yes. Take the match plug out, turn it 180 degrees, and plug it back in on the same side, with the orange wire on top.

#19 5 months ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

I don't know where this expression came from. Much more like an ice skate than a snowshoe!

I first saw that term used in the Williams 1966 Parts catalog as the description for that type of unit. Instead of contact points on "fingers", note the shape of the spring-loaded, moveable contact face. It resembles a snow shoe of that era.
I did not see a Gottlieb part catalog until 1977 when I picked one up at the main Empire Distributing location (120 S. Sangamon in Chicago).

#20 5 months ago
Quoted from Gotemwill:

Yes. Take the match plug out, turn it 180 degrees, and plug it back in on the same side, with the orange wire on top.

After doing this, manually toggle the 0-9 unit while the machine is in "game over", and see if any of the match numbers on the back glass light up or even just flicker. If you haven't already, you may want to make sure lamps are installed in those sockets, and check to see that they're good.

#21 5 months ago

Looking again at the photo of your 0-9 unit, it sure looks to me like one of the small jumper wires between one set of the spring loaded contacts is missing. The pair should be jumpered together with a small piece of very light and supple wire. I imagine you probably don't solder. You may be able to get away with threading a small piece of wire through the small holes on the contact pins, and twisting the wire tightly so that it makes good contact with the pins. Make sure the pins can move freely and still make contact with the rivets on the fiber disc. The wire doesn't really need to be insulated. Use very fine limp wire if you can find it.
If you want to reveal your general location, maybe someone here can stop by and help you out.

#22 5 months ago
Quoted from DaMoib:

Is that match plug in upside down?

Good catch, BTW.

#23 5 months ago

Even with my limited knowledge, I knew from plugging in the 4 back glass head units correctly that the match was pin was crooked, but I just didn’t register in my head. Can’t wait to get home from work now.

On the bright side, I was talking to a customer at work this afternoon about my purchases of Cross Town and Ice Revue last week.He tells me that he has a Mibs that he is looking to get rid of for $200. He claims it works and just needs new rubber......we’ll see. Not the greatest game, but for that price I’ll buy it.

#24 5 months ago
Quoted from The--Who:

Even with my limited knowledge, I knew from plugging in the 4 back glass head units correctly that the match was pin was crooked, but I just didn’t register in my head. Can’t wait to get home from work now.
On the bright side, I was talking to a customer at work this afternoon about my purchases of Cross Town and Ice Revue last week.He tells me that he has a Mibs that he is looking to get rid of for $200. He claims it works and just needs new rubber......we’ll see. Not the greatest game, but for that price I’ll buy it.

Actually, I have a (1969) Mibs in my collection for the last 15 years and is quite a good player and for sure this game keeps you wanting to play another game. The back glass animation is always a nice added feature too.

Gottlieb also made two other games with the same identical playfield design layout and back glass animation, but have different back glasses and playfield artwork. These two other games are Bowling Queen and Rack a Ball both good players too, just ask anyone who has them in their collection.

I think you will be surprised, if you do get the Mibs how much you like it. The thing about Mibs is most people tend to not like the back glass artwork and it gets put down a bit and because Bowling Queen and Rack a Ball are more the collectors choice because of their artwork, which I agree on.

#25 5 months ago

Match unit was plugged in backward!!!!!

Probably was a good thing that I cleaned off the years of sludge on the 0-9 unit brass contacts too. Should there be anything applied to them for lubrication?

THANK YOU ALL!!!!!

C7D25F63-0D40-45B8-A370-952C9D2A03CD (resized).jpeg
#26 5 months ago

From your pic the stepper rivets still need to be polished to provide a smooth, resistance free contact surface-I use a dremel wire brush and then a smear of super lube to provide free movement of the wipers which also need to be centred on the rivets..

#27 5 months ago
Quoted from wayner:

From your pic the stepper rivets still need to be polished to provide a smooth, resistance free contact surface-I use a dremel wire brush and then a smear of super lube to provide free movement of the wipers which also need to be centred on the rivets..

Yes, I’m going to give the rivets a better cleaning. What is the actual brand name of the lubricant you use?

#28 5 months ago
Quoted from The--Who:

Yes, I’m going to give the rivets a better cleaning. What is the actual brand name of the lubricant you use?

I use PBR grease but superlube (the brand name) is commonly used.

#29 5 months ago

Use a VERY thin film of Superlube grease. I put the tiniest bit of it on my fingertip, and spread it over the entire circumference of the disc.

#30 5 months ago

Once again, thank you all! I am so happy to get this up and running at nearly 100%. Tomorrow I hope to get the Ice Revue that my kids bought me for Christmas up and running.

My final project on Cross Town is replacing the subway doors. Mine were severely chipped at the corners from a couple rough spots in the plastic guide rails. Sometimes they would work ok, but other times they would pull crooked and stick. Needless to say, finding an original replacement set is next to impossible, so I had a local sheet metal shop make me a new pair. They turned out really nice, but I still have to paint them.

I would also like to replace the the spring that closes the doors. Anyone have an idea what the specs would be on that spring? Grainger had hundreds of hooked coiled springs, but I have no idea of the wire gauge, tension force, etc. Am I correct in assuming that spring is the only force closing the doors?

#31 5 months ago

New doors painted and installed, all lights replaced, play-field cleaned and waxed........up and running 100%.

On to putting together Ice Revue and picking up a Mibs tonight.

2DB325D6-6AEB-4B6E-A2F3-5DD204EB99BB (resized).jpeg1D664488-6929-4666-8B3E-274AB03D298E (resized).jpegA2182A66-722B-4B52-9993-DA3409E04177 (resized).jpeg9F0D3069-C28F-486D-86B2-841EFE4618DD (resized).jpeg53983C2D-C079-4AA3-9841-E147541C1A3A (resized).jpeg8D0122D6-0887-4A6A-B852-E69237862059 (resized).jpeg
#32 5 months ago
Quoted from The--Who:

New doors painted and installed, all lights replaced, play-field cleaned and waxed........up and running 100%.
On to putting together Ice Revue and picking up a Mibs tonight.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Let us know how the doors work out.

#33 5 months ago
Quoted from The--Who:

Once again, thank you all! I am so happy to get this up and running at nearly 100%. Tomorrow I hope to get the Ice Revue that my kids bought me for Christmas up and running.
My final project on Cross Town is replacing the subway doors. Mine were severely chipped at the corners from a couple rough spots in the plastic guide rails. Sometimes they would work ok, but other times they would pull crooked and stick. Needless to say, finding an original replacement set is next to impossible, so I had a local sheet metal shop make me a new pair. They turned out really nice, but I still have to paint them.
I would also like to replace the the spring that closes the doors. Anyone have an idea what the specs would be on that spring? Grainger had hundreds of hooked coiled springs, but I have no idea of the wire gauge, tension force, etc. Am I correct in assuming that spring is the only force closing the doors?

Replacement of those doors often comes up in these threads. To replicate the originals they are a kinda tricky sheetmetal operation with the activating brackets spot welded to the light guage doors. If you get a chance a couple of pics of the new doors unpainted would be great.

#34 5 months ago
Quoted from wayner:

Replacement of those doors often comes up in these threads. To replicate the originals they are a kinda tricky sheetmetal operation with the activating brackets spot welded to the light guage doors. If you get a chance a couple of pics of the new doors unpainted would be great.

I posted some above in reply #31.

#35 5 months ago
Quoted from wayner:

Replacement of those doors often comes up in these threads. To replicate the originals they are a kinda tricky sheetmetal operation with the activating brackets spot welded to the light guage doors. If you get a chance a couple of pics of the new doors unpainted would be great.

They are working great so far. Once in awhile they stick open, but I think that is because the spring that closes them has lost some of its tension. A slight nudge of the machine or hitting a pop bumper usually closes them when they do stick.

#36 5 months ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Let us know how the doors work out.

They are working great so far. Once in awhile they stick open, but I think that is because the spring that closes them has lost some of its tension. A slight nudge of the machine or hitting a pop bumper usually closes them when they do stick.

#37 5 months ago
Quoted from The--Who:

I posted some above in reply #31.

Oh thks. Thats a nice piece of fabrication. I erred not spotted but brackets rivetted.

Quoted from The--Who:

They are working great so far. Once in awhile they stick open, but I think that is because the spring that closes them has lost some of its tension. A slight nudge of the machine or hitting a pop bumper usually closes them when they do stick.

Getting them right can, in my experience, take some patience. The spring is the sole source of return. I have found it critical that the runners be cleaned and waxed along with the doors so there is as little friction as possible, and make sure that the stops holding the elevator coil in place are horizontally in perfect alignment to avoid friction as the plungers return. You can test this alignment by manually opening the doors and observing their free closure. Once these issues are corrected the doors will close strongly every time.

#38 5 months ago

You could try to nip off a tiny bit of the spring (maybe like three coils) with a pair of pliers, then reform the end into a new loop. This will increase the spring tension a bit.

#39 5 months ago

I had a similar problem with mine. After messing around with the spring I noticed the metal arm was resting on the bracket as it went to the doors. This caused extra friction. I bent the arm so it was positioned in the middle of the slot instead of resting on the bottom. It closes very fast now.

#40 5 months ago

Your backglass looks great. Mine has some faces partially gone. You can also get a spring assortment at Harbor Freight. Then play around to find one that works. I would start by snipping a few coils off, then making a new loop as was suggested above.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 6.00
From: $ 19.95
Apparel - Unisex
Pinball Wheezer
$ 12.99
$ 25.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Great American Pinball
$ 135.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 74.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
Id Rather Play Pinball
$ 28.95
$ 180.00
Tools
PinDoc Restorations
$ 12.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
$ 18.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
From: $ 5,899.00
$ 159.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 154.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Id Rather Play Pinball
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 22.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 18.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 35.00
Playfield - Plastics
Ramp-O-Matic
$ 4.49
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
From: $ 20.00
Apparel - Unisex
Pinball Wheezer
From: $ 19.95
Apparel - Unisex
Pinball Wheezer

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside