(Topic ID: 252040)

Critique my soldering job


By kevinclark

8 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by G-P-E
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 8 months ago

    I’m doing a PIA swap out and adding a socket in the process. I’ve been using practice kits for the last few months to get a handle but still having a little trouble getting enough solder to flow through the channel to the pad on the opposite side. When I supply more solder I get a convex blob instead. I *am* making contact with the lead and pad for about a second before adding solder via a bridge to the iron button results are inconsistent.

    Would anyone be willing to critique my solder job to point out other things I should be improving?

    I also had a trace lift in the PIA removal so I bridged it with a clipped lead from another component. It seems ok on continuity, but I’d be curious if someone has suggestion for a better fix for next time.

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    #2 8 months ago

    You've got a lot of cold solder joints there. There should be a good fillet on every joint from the board to the pin and it should also be shiny. What kind of solder are you using? What's the temperature of your iron? What tip are you using?

    #3 8 months ago

    Wait, are you adding solder on the component side of the board and attempting to get it to flow to the solder/back side of the board?

    #4 8 months ago
    Quoted from yaksplat:

    You've got a lot of cold solder joints there. There should be a good fillet on every joint from the board to the pin and it should also be shiny. What kind of solder are you using? What's the temperature of your iron? What tip are you using?

    yaksplat I’m using leadfree (I’ve got young kids in the house) and I have trouble getting something that looks shinier. Should I expect it even with that solder?

    I’m using a metcal with 700 degree iron.

    #5 8 months ago
    Quoted from grantopia:

    Wait, are you adding solder on the component side of the board and attempting to get it to flow to the solder/back side of the board?

    Nope, backside and expecting it to wick up.

    #6 8 months ago

    Leave the torn trace alone on the component side, remove the solder jumper. Use kynar wire on solder side and jumper the trace to the destination pad.

    #7 8 months ago

    I have heard from multiple sources that lead free solder is not what you want to use. Get a good 60/40 solder and try that.

    #8 8 months ago
    Quoted from kevinclark:

    yaksplat I’m using leadfree (I’ve got young kids in the house) and I have trouble getting something that looks shinier. Should I expect it even with that solder?
    I’m using a metcal with 700 degree iron.

    Lead free solder is your problem. Requires a different technique and since your original board has lead solder your lead free setup is no longer lead free. Get some Kester 60/40 or 63/37 lead solder.

    #9 8 months ago

    Use 63/37 lead solder and I like to solder about 800-840 but that's me, I'm on each connection for less than 2 seconds and get nice flow and fillet.

    Lock the solder when you're done up somewhere where the kids can't get in. You're not vaporizing lead until you get well over 1200 degrees so there's not going to be airborne lead (just airborne flux which isn't great either, but you get that with lead free solder, too, and possibly that flux is more caustic than the leaded stuff to get the lead free to flow better)

    #10 8 months ago

    The lead free stuff isn't as easy to work with. Sometimes you can find some leaded solder at Auto Zone. There's one close to most everybody.

    #11 8 months ago

    People worry too much about lead these days. You shouldn't lick your fingers after using lead solder but lead solder isn't going to hurt you using it once in a while. Lead free SUCKS so bad I tossed all I had around in the trash!

    #12 8 months ago

    Agree with others on the lead solder. It's much better. My preference is using that along with liquid flux and 750 degree iron.

    I would add that care must be used when removing these parts as the though hole plating can be damaged easily preventing good flow etc..

    #13 8 months ago

    Ok ok. I'm ordering some leaded solder. That's how I'd started working, but my wife had an issue with it and I figured lead free wouldn't hurt much.

    #14 8 months ago
    Quoted from kevinclark:

    yaksplat I’m using leadfree (I’ve got young kids in the house)

    Buy Kester 63/37 lead solder. Lock it up in the pin cabinet when not in use. Don't eat or drink when working and wash your hands when done. No problems when used correctly.

    As far as your soldering goes, add 50 degrees and a bit more dwell time.
    Also when desoldering, cut components from the board first, heat leads and pull out one at a time. Then clean up the pads.

    #15 8 months ago

    For rework on this old stuff -- Standard Rosin core, 63-37 solder. Kester 24-6337-0027 or equivalent.
    Don't go cheap with some Chinese or Mexican garbage, stick with Kester and you can't go wrong.
    I have some Mexican stuff here somewhere... smells like a little kids shitty pants every time I use the stuff.

    Lots of diameters to pick from. From tiny 0.015 (and smaller) to large 0.062. Good, generic size is either 0.025 or 0.31". 0.031" is most common.
    https://gokimco.com/44-rosin-core-solder-wire-sn63-pb37-031-66.html

    If buying from Kimco - get some flux for removing old stuff -- such as this:
    https://gokimco.com/circuitworks-cw8200-rosin-flux-dispensing-pen.html

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