(Topic ID: 63351)

Crimp question: two wires in one pin?


By radium

6 years ago



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  • 15 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Fanatic
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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    #1 6 years ago

    I'm replacing some flaky IDC connectors on my HH displays with Molex/trifurcon. Some of the IDC connectors are wired in series, so that the wires do not terminate at the display but instead continue on to another display. Is there a proper way to replace these?

    I'm guessing I cut the wire where the IDC bites it, strip two ends, and crimp them both into one pin... but I know there's a lot of rules about properly terminating connections. Wanted to make sure this is OK before I cut these wires.

    (NOTE: I'm not talking about a pin that loops to another pin in the same connector, I mean two connectors in series on the same wiring)

    #2 6 years ago

    I solder the two wires onto one shrink the connection and then crimp the one wire onto the pin.
    If it loops I solder two wires to one shrink and crimp a pin on each one.

    #3 6 years ago
    Quoted from radium:

    I'm replacing some flaky IDC connectors on my HH displays with Molex/trifurcon. Some of the IDC connectors are wired in series, so that the wires do not terminate at the display but instead continue on to another display. Is there a proper way to replace these?
    I'm guessing I cut the wire where the IDC bites it, strip two ends, and crimp them both into one pin... but I know there's a lot of rules about properly terminating connections. Wanted to make sure this is OK before I cut these wires.
    (NOTE: I'm not talking about a pin that loops to another pin in the same connector, I mean two connectors in series on the same wiring)

    I have done this several times without a problem. The crimp on the insulated part of the wires doesn't look too pretty though due to its size.

    Andy

    #4 6 years ago

    Technically speaking, I think tracelifter has the right idea.
    The method being described is called "pig-tailing"

    Taking multiple wires, join them under a single joint/terminal, and feed the joint with a single lead or pig-tail.
    So in your case, wires which enter, terminate, and leave the connector will have 3 wires when you finish instead of just two.

    The pins are very sensitive to proper crimping. If not done properly, they may not even fit into the bracket. Also, you can create a high-resistance connection by distorting the pins while crimping. I wonder about shortening the rated life of the connection by "double-lugging" - the process of putting too many wires under a single terminal rated for installation of a single conductor.

    http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/TM-638000029.pdf
    This article from molex really does a lot to explain the subtleties of crimp-style terminals.

    #5 6 years ago

    Any good wiring tutorial vids around?

    #6 6 years ago

    Thanks everyone. The connectors I'm rebuilding are 19-pin so it's gonna take me a while to pigtail those things, but it seems the proper way. I think there's enough slack wire that I can make it all the same color to the pin. If I do that and keep the lengths correct it should look pretty clean.

    Thanks for that link Fanatic. I had the same concerns after reading the pinrepair connector guide. I had no idea there was so much to proper crimping.

    good2.gif

    #7 6 years ago
    Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

    Any good wiring tutorial vids around?

    What are you looking to do exactly?

    #8 6 years ago
    Quoted from radium:

    Thanks everyone. The connectors I'm rebuilding are 19-pin so it's gonna take me a while to pigtail those things, but it seems the proper way. I think there's enough slack wire that I can make it all the same color to the pin. If I do that and keep the lengths correct it should look pretty clean.
    Thanks for that link Fanatic. I had the same concerns after reading the pinrepair connector guide. I had no idea there was so much to proper crimping.

    Order extra pins and practice your crimps before you do the actual repair.
    Look at them and pull on them to make sure they are tight and not bowed.
    You will also want to replace the male pins on the board at the same time.

    #9 6 years ago
    Quoted from tracelifter:

    Order extra pins and practice your crimps before you do the actual repair.
    Look at them and pull on them to make sure they are tight and not bowed.
    You will also want to replace the male pins on the board at the same time.

    Will do, thanks!

    No male pins, these are for edge connectors in a Sys80. Should I reflow those? Or only if I still have problems?

    #10 6 years ago
    Quoted from radium:

    What are you looking to do exactly?

    I want to learn out to make wiring looms and splice up some Molex connections and extend wiring.

    #11 6 years ago

    They of course make the crimp connectors in different gauges.

    If you have a bunch of doubles to make, get the larger gauge connectors for those.

    #12 6 years ago

    The ideal way for multi-terminated wires is to run a full wire for each one - full length end to end. Run wires in parallel from source to beginning. But in order to save money, pin manufacturers didn't seem to follow this method and often daisy chained the connections.
    Best method around this would be as tracelifter stated - one wire per contact, tie the wires together behind the connector and cover with heat shrink. Done carefully and neatly, this can look decent.

    Two wires can fit into one contact (I have a pix floating around on Clay's website) - but it isn't pretty and would be an automatic reject of any QA inspector. It's only something I would do as a "let's try it" sort of connection.

    #13 6 years ago
    Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

    Any good wiring tutorial vids around?

    Quoted from radium:

    Thanks everyone. The connectors I'm rebuilding are 19-pin so it's gonna take me a while to pigtail those things, but it seems the proper way. I think there's enough slack wire that I can make it all the same color to the pin. If I do that and keep the lengths correct it should look pretty clean.

    Thanks for that link Fanatic. I had the same concerns after reading the pinrepair connector guide. I had no idea there was so much to proper crimping

    Its not as hard as you think. The first time I knew I had to replace connectors I was really nervous about it, remember these two key things:

    1. You cant really mess it up, if you crimp a connector and it comes out mashed and no good, you just snip it off and try again. That's why you order a ton of them like tracelifter said, they are cheap and good to have on hand anyway.

    2. if you stick it in the connector and its no good after you test it, you just use a tiny screwdriver to push it out and try again.

    You can try as many times as you need to, you really cant screw it up too badly as long as you don't mix the wires up. Take pictures, make notes, do one at a time rather then clip them all at once before recrimping them all.

    The pic above illustrating the proper crimp is intimidating but the key things to take away are you want the first collar on the end to go around the insulation, the second collar goes around the bare wire, look at it after you crimped did they curl down and grab them good. Lastly, your goal is to only have the bare wire in that second crimp and maybe a little past, you don't want a whole bunch of wire going past that second collar. It gets easier with practice and you will become a champ in no time.

    #14 6 years ago

    Also want to add, I buy all of my stuff for this type of work from great plains electronics (Poster G-P-E above is Ed from great plains.) he is super knowledgeable, prices are very fair, and I have emailed him with questions specific to pinball and is always helpful.

    Also like people mention, as far as the crimping tool you get what you pay for. If you think you will be doing a ton of crimping in your future and have games come in and out all the time, buy the expensive one. If you have a small collection like me, I have only had to use mine on a handful of occasions, the thirty dollar one will work fine as well. You probably will end up mangling more crimps though so buy extras.

    #15 6 years ago

    One thing that I do while crimping which seems to help.

    I use the next larger "m" die to pre-shape the connector.
    The next larger die seems to help with the in-curling of the crimp. Then, I move the the next smaller (and correct sized) "m" die for the final crimp. This extra move really helps the bellmouth take shape. Also, starting with the larger die allows a little forgiveness if one needs to adjust the conductor and insulation position within the crimp.
    I use this double move for both the conductor crimp and the insulation crimp.
    It sounds tedious but I rarely foul a terminal as a result of the extra effort.

    *edited to say* - I normally use the Ideal #30-426 Service Tool

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