As we all know, Iron Man did not receive the Pro/Premium/LE treatment, but what might have been? I am going to create my version of an Iron Man premium, and just for fun record the steps here. I will drive the add-ons with Total Lightshow, and am going for the following list of extras..

Tri-colour controlled GI, similar to a bunch of other Premiums,
Controlled ramp optic fibres as in Tron,
Two banks of drop targets, in the position of the current seven stand ups,
Metal Apron,
Real knocker.

I hope to get finished within the next week or so. So, here is day one..

I am going to start with the GI. First thing I need to do is decide where to put 18 new red/blue bulbs..

These switch access holes are a good candidate.

01E856DB-85DB-4D94-9B5E-C8B9907E7BA2 (resized).jpeg
A bayonet socket fits. Wedge sockets do not. I will be using bayonet sockets throughout as wedge sockets don’t even fit in the normal GI bulb holes.

FF29261A-720D-4A71-9C47-7E3D04EAAE1E (resized).jpeg

Opto access holes seem to always have the opto itself in the way, and are unusable for a new socket as the bulb hits the switch pcb and won’t go far enough through..

B25C0082-970D-4E23-93C7-4A9D1E3A20C3 (resized).jpeg

There aren’t many of those small switch cable access holes, so I will also use the big version..
40E5DDEA-4986-4C1A-A4DF-C14463A3CA6D (resized).jpeg
And also drop out some factory white. Iron Man is a very well lit game, and a few whites converted to red and blue will not hamper visibility.

This position, in the target cut out, is also viable and I have used it before successfully. This time round though it is out as I am putting drop targets it.
D931A4DC-98B5-47D4-9F57-6D20776D2D19 (resized).jpeg

When choosing where to put the coloured bulbs, I just try to spread them around, and try to get even coverage. The slings will lose both whites, as the inlanes are right there.

Once I have the sockets resting in place I measure the wire, then take them all out and solder. In my final kits I use friction terminals to attach the cables, but in the dev stage I solder.

Red string..
ED953A14-9659-4C40-B862-6A5B155142FD (resized).jpeg

Blue string..
A58B6511-8F8E-4D6A-8915-C56D86178CA6 (resized).jpeg

I use an independent power source to check the wiring. Nothing is hooked up to the machine’s power yet.

All the sockets are now simply screwed in place. I drill pilot holes for new places, with a 3/32 or 2.5mm drill, and just screw into the existing holes for sockets that are replacing factory sockets.

I leave bulbs in the dropped-out sockets so I can find them easily, and also as a kind of cap so that no stray object can go in there and short things out.
FD85091C-6909-47B9-A63D-84BE0470A9EA (resized).jpeg
Dropped sockets can just get zip tied to the cable harness somewhere..
BF3D005A-D1FB-4495-A2D2-9EB5F1F3A6E0 (resized).jpeg
Wiring just runs along like normal GI..
6C3B6A93-D625-4390-BB8F-7DE65BF2D77E (resized).jpeg
All looking pretty neat..
BEC1D935-1D8B-48FE-BF75-45279FAADEAF (resized).jpeg
Red only, checking for coverage, balance, brightness etc..
AE4D219B-61FC-4C9B-BFEE-1D5B501E2930 (resized).jpeg
Blue..
7AF6258D-7BA8-4C2A-9000-F6F53B175AF8 (resized).jpeg
Red and blue..
A9DD091A-B36C-463C-A365-DAC89804C41A (resized).jpeg
Red, blue, white..
FEEF4297-1187-4E3A-AD24-6AA62E33A47E (resized).jpeg

I will be controlling the white bulbs with the GI Interceptor, so I don’t need a dedicated white string like in AC/DC or Metallica. So that’s the GI done.

Next, to the ramps. There’s no point in trying to do a probably-permanent mod to the the ramps with them left on. Removing ramps is usually pretty easy, so just bite the bullet and get them out of there. IM ramps are really easy. (ST, now that’s a different story!)

First, lift the playfield and disconnect all the switch and flasher wires. All the connectors look like this..
0AD45160-7CDA-4AF0-B50A-92D9E1CC8EF8 (resized).jpeg

Back up top, first thing that needs to come out is the plastic on the back board. Undo all the top and middle screws but you can’t access the two lower ones yet.

Just take them straight out..
983270F8-95CD-43D1-A0D7-A2DB89C8F261 (resized).jpeg

You can’t get this sucker yet..
B387C43B-D260-4456-868C-DAD5777C2AE7 (resized).jpeg

Or this one..
9E89BD2F-C3BA-422F-8108-941318758F2C (resized).jpeg

Now go around and take out all the screws holding the ramps down. Take out the screws that hold the ramp flaps in position. Each ramp will now lift easily enough to get your hand underneath and access the last two screws holding the back board plastic..
8163B581-0A63-484A-8FD9-FA1CC99BFC70 (resized).jpeg
37790752-D9B2-471D-BBD1-29B90A970063 (resized).jpeg

Now just pull the plastic forward and lift it out.
3DF393C7-6B65-4618-80F0-C205EC128066 (resized).jpeg
395B4999-59B9-4E2A-A2DA-27B173601E1D (resized).jpeg

The ramps wil now lift straight out.

Now to fit the optic fibres to the ramps. I will use my own stainless steel clips of course, instead of zip ties. Take the red flashers out as a couple of clips need to go in the cutouts and hook over the edge of the ramp.

The clips all get fed on to the fibre first. The fibre then gets laid neatly around the ramp, and starting at the sharp turn at the inlane end of the ramp, the clips are simply pressed in place moving back up the ramp doing both sides.

Slide ‘em on..
6786643B-4280-458E-B689-BBCCB41EC589 (resized).jpeg

Clip in place, ensuring the fibre hugs the ramp contours..
A78D5F76-9847-4615-A389-C888C4B340EA (resized).jpeg

Done. Top and bottom view.
44447CAA-927A-488A-9F4A-28DE82266C43 (resized).jpeg
90D3734B-6D45-4F1A-8226-E382FBD4D0A6 (resized).jpeg

The loose ends of the fibre on the left ramp slide very handily through to the other side of the playfield through an opto switch wire hole, and a drone stand up hole..
3A430B1B-B4B1-44DB-B786-708F3BC32A63 (resized).jpeg
B37B9E55-DEF3-4B66-B3AC-8C3DAA4098D1 (resized).jpeg
01255EAF-3BB8-4E44-AA16-61FA7F5BA30A (resized).jpeg

The right ramp is a little less accommodating in terms of getting the fibre through the playfield. Best thing is to drill! I’ll get to that on Wednesday.

With the ramps off, it’s a good time to get into the drop target installation. I will be able to get good access top and bottom and get plastics out of the way.

I’ll start with the left 4-bank, as I’ve done the right bank on another machine before. This is my first look at the left bank.

Here’s the area opened up. You can see a couple of new GI bulbs in there. There will need to be a rubber installed behind the targets, and it looks like there is a convenient post already there for one end. Positioning of the other end is not yet clear.
B8753C28-7BEF-4222-AB4B-49B2F3446663 (resized).jpeg

Underneath I just need to get everything out of the way. GI, insert lamps, stand up targets, and a couple of cable harness mounts. Just clear the area. No point in leaving anything in the way.
1B66EE29-0810-49D3-8A48-F407D05C96CC (resized).jpeg
9C886484-A7A8-4BF3-AFFB-4EE787A59D7C (resized).jpeg
C199745B-50E2-4814-8D4B-C1F04935F553 (resized).jpeg
16081996-AD6D-4101-B318-226A5C1923BD (resized).jpeg

I have to sit the target bank in place and make sure everything fits.

Well, the targets fit through the cutout. That’s a relief!
3A48135E-8ABD-406A-A306-D482D3CBD3C2 (resized).jpeg

With the cable harness pushed to the inside it’s a little difficult to get a good view of what’s going on.
00E09001-572F-45E0-A6CB-4DD33948FB3C (resized).jpeg
2EF70525-BD70-4901-985D-638E1C5ACA3F (resized).jpeg

I’ll try the other way. That’s better. You’ll notice here that the inserts don’t line up with the assembly frame, by virtue of their diagonal layout of course. Don’t worry about that. Light still gets through and is dispersed by the diffusing inserts just fine.
06E8EE4C-9EED-46A8-AE2A-A227F4E1FF9B (resized).jpeg

The main priority here is free movement of the targets through the cutout. Without that, you may as well stop right here.

I have an unwelcome tenant in the area. This post nut looks a little too close for comfort. The edge of the assembly sits right on it.
2A0FEE0A-9B4D-4F80-A276-1099A6E5A531 (resized).jpeg
E3740BC0-6F9D-4296-A143-7100BCAFE0A5 (resized).jpeg

Plenty of clearance for the target in the cutout on the bottom.
BF086DEB-8EFA-41C4-99E5-50C40A7B3AFB (resized).jpeg

The top target is binding on the playfield though.
48BE7DA7-7E6A-4CB7-9FA5-25882CE11317 (resized).jpeg

Something will have to give. I had this issue with a post on ST, and just took the nut off and never looked back. I would like to do better than that though. The other options are to see if I can get a different profile nut with a smaller footprint, or file a notch in the target assembly frame. I’ll decide later.

Actually, I’ve decided. I’ll just file a couple of mm off the corner of the frame. There will be no loss of structural integrity, and it will be quite tidy.

True. I am going to put that in my upcoming "Pimping out my IM Premium" thread.

Begin the daily grind..
IMG_0375 (resized).jpg

That's that taken care of in about ten minutes.
IMG_0376 (resized).jpg

Perfect. Now the drops fit through the playfield cutout with plenty of clearance.
IMG_0377 (resized).jpg

Mark the holes and drill with a 3mm bit. Only three of the four mounting holes line up with a place to drill the playfield. I have the same thing on another machine. Three is fine. Reuse the bigger screws that were holding the standups in place.
IMG_0378 (resized).jpg
IMG_0380 (resized).jpg

Check that the reset plate moves all the targets freely and that they lock in the up position.

IMG_0381 (resized).jpg

Have a look around to the top of the playfield and flick each target to make sure it drops correctly. Adjust the height so they are flush with the playfield when down.
IMG_0382 (resized).jpg
IMG_0384 (resized).jpg
IMG_0385 (resized).jpg
IMG_0386 (resized).jpg

Now there is just a big mess of wires. I need to clean this up.
IMG_0387 (resized).jpg
IMG_0388 (resized).jpg

First, let's get the standups out of there. Now that I know the drops fit, we're past the point of no return. Just touch the solder joints with a soldering iron and they come off in three seconds.
IMG_0389 (resized).jpg
IMG_0390 (resized).jpg

You will end up with four pairs of switch wires. Leave them loose for the moment.
IMG_0391 (resized).jpg

A few more factory zip ties are going to have to go so I can reroute. I'm going to split the main harness and run some of it left, and some right, around the drop bank.
IMG_0392 (resized).jpg
IMG_0393 (resized).jpg
IMG_0394 (resized).jpg

Some left, some right..
IMG_0395 (resized).jpg

Note the repositioned cable support. It's the one I snipped out from above the target bank.
IMG_0395 (resized).jpg

Insert lamps are replaced, just loosely for now as the bulbs hit the target assembly frame. There will have to be some tweaking later..
IMG_0396 (resized).jpg

Screw the GI sockets back in place and zip tie the harness for neatness.
IMG_0397 (resized).jpg

Now to hook the drop target switches into the switch matrix where the old standups were.
Take the four pairs of wires..
IMG_0398 (resized).jpg

And get ready to attach them to this header on the target assembly. Note the labelling of the pins. There are four switch returns, one strobe/drive and a 5V power/gnd pair.
IMG_0399 (resized).jpg

Here's a handy helper for the job..
IMG_0403 (resized).jpg

Note the labels on the terminal block. This connector can take up to five switches. We are only using four, and will use SR2-5, leaving SR1 empty.
IMG_0404 (resized).jpg

The four white wires are your switch returns and are just screwed into the terminal block in the same order they are hanging. And you only need one of the green ones. They are all the same wire. Choose any of the four to go into the DRV terminal.
IMG_0410 (resized).jpg

And tidy away the other three..
IMG_0405 (resized).jpg

Clip the connector onto the target assembly header.
IMG_0406 (resized).jpg
IMG_0411 (resized).jpg
IMG_0407 (resized).jpg

Boom.
IMG_0408 (resized).jpg

Sparky approves..

37742293-E504-42D7-9F9E-734C7ECCA720 (resized).jpeg

Here is a walk around view of the finished install.

Here's something I learnt before, but then stoopidly forgot to do with the 4-bank..put the decals on before you install the assembly
IMG_0414 (resized).jpg

3-bank installed similarly to the 4-bank. It's much easier.
IMG_0415 (resized).jpg

Some wide shots of how it's ended up. There you go..what the underside of an IM Premium would look like. Pretty tidy.
IMG_0417 (resized).jpg
IMG_0418 (resized).jpg
IMG_0416 (resized).jpg

And up top..
IMG_0420 (resized).jpg
IMG_0419 (resized).jpg

Now for the rubbers behind the targets.

The right side has some posts already waiting conveniently. How nice.
IMG_0423 (resized).jpg
Only half as lucky on the left. I'm going to have to drill!
IMG_0424 (resized).jpg

Somewhere around here I think.
IMG_0425 (resized).jpg

I can't do it..
IMG_0426 (resized).jpg

Sure I can.
IMG_0427 (resized).jpg

Fit rubbers
IMG_0429 (resized).jpg
IMG_0428 (resized).jpg

IMG_0431 (resized).jpg
IMG_0430 (resized).jpg

Total Lightshow has access to all switches and all insert lamps, and from the behaviour thereof I deduce game state. I actually have all this already coded. Here is my previous drop target demo..

The target assemblies are now wired into the switch matrix, but they need to be powered. 5V for the target PCB and 50v for the coil.

Say hello to my little friend, the coil driver..
IMG_0437 (resized).jpg
IMG_0438 (resized).jpg

This plugs into a Stern 50V step up board, one for each target bank coil.
IMG_0440 (resized).jpg

And will all get connected back into the machine with this harness. Again, one for each coil.
IMG_0439 (resized).jpg

Mount the Stern 50V boards first..
IMG_0441 (resized).jpg
IMG_0442 (resized).jpg

Then I plug the coil drivers into the Stern boards..
IMG_0443 (resized).jpg

The coil driver needs a 50V line, a 20V line, and a trigger signal.

The 50V will come from a tap in the back box. The 20V will come from a flasher line. The trigger signal will come from the Matrix Interceptor board that drives Total Lightshow.

The harness plugs into the coil driver, then feeds the coil connector..
IMG_0445 (resized).jpg
IMG_0458 (resized).jpg

I have built a piggyback connection to go into the nearest flasher plug. This 20V supply is needed by the Stern board just to tell it that it's ok to operate. The orange wire could have been a bunch shorter, but I have them all pre cut and ready to use on any machine and you can't always be guaranteed of a flasher plug nearby. When the ramps are refitted the flasher will plug into the waiting piggyback connector.
IMG_0444 (resized).jpg

Both banks almost fully wired..
IMG_0464 (resized).jpg
IMG_0463 (resized).jpg
IMG_0462 (resized).jpg
IMG_0461 (resized).jpg

The 5V for the target assembly PCB is easy. It's just a 5V/GND pair that will be powered from outlets on the TLS board. One like this for each side..
IMG_0434 (resized).jpg

Click..
IMG_0436 (resized).jpg

Click..
IMG_0435 (resized).jpg

And here's what has to get run back to the back box when I do that hook up tomorrow. 2 x 50V, 2 x 5V, the red and blue GI strings..
IMG_0465 (resized).jpg

And I forgot to do the trigger signal cables. I will do them tomorrow when I do the back box wiring.

Scoring is not affected. The system is way smarter than to just throw points away! I monitor the lamps and the switches. If there are points available at a target it is reset. You can see it on the fast scoring demo video. The targets continually reset all through the mode, then when play returns to normal, the target behaviour is completely different and dependent on the lamp state.

Yes you can, time after time after time. I need to put a video up of this happening to stop this vicious rumour.

I am striving for complete replication. I haven’t coded the any target pays another letter behaviour, but it shall be done. No point will get left behind. There’s a slight subtlety in the any-target-paying-another-letter scheme in that it only pays adjacent targets to the one you hit. This can be monitored and replicated as well.
To reset the target bank after each hit, in order to score the minor points for hitting an already lit target, may get into the realms of “too many resets” for some users, so I will make it optional. I will use one of the DIP switches to opt in or out of this behaviour.

You mean like this?

4A392EBF-EC83-4ADC-A22F-E9A35EFEDDCA (resized).jpeg

I agree. These were on a used machine I bought. I have no idea where they came from.

The last of the playfield wiring are all the cables needed to drive the LEDs for the ramp optic fibres. There is a cable to bring the RGB from the main controller. A distribution board to send this to the individual LED drivers, and jumpers to connect them all up.
IMG_0468 (resized).jpg

Individual LED drivers and their LED pods that fit to the end of the optic fibres screw in anywhere nearby the points where the fibres will be coming through the playfield.

Left..
IMG_0469 (resized).jpg
IMG_0470 (resized).jpg
IMG_0471 (resized).jpg

Right..
IMG_0472 (resized).jpg
IMG_0473 (resized).jpg
IMG_0474 (resized).jpg

The small distribution board can go right at the bottom of the playfield.
IMG_0475 (resized).jpg
IMG_0476 (resized).jpg
IMG_0477 (resized).jpg

Jump from here..
IMG_0478 (resized).jpg

To the first of the left drivers. There is a jumper already connecting the two drivers.
IMG_0480 (resized).jpg

Then go from the second driver..
IMG_0481 (resized).jpg

Over to one of the right hand side drivers.
IMG_0482 (resized).jpg

Here they are all connected..
IMG_0483 (resized).jpg

Now the last one to connect back to the main driver. It's just a 4way RGB/Gnd.
IMG_0484 (resized).jpg

With loose ends that will get inserted into the main board.
IMG_0485 (resized).jpg

Here is the final, final group of cables to head back to the back box. 2 x coil groups (signal, 5V, trigger), red GI, blue GI, RGB ramp signal.
IMG_0487 (resized).jpg

And here is the final playfield wiring shot, with everything tied away and looking neat.
IMG_0488 (resized).jpg

I had to move the coil driver boards because my 50V cables couldn't reach the tap with the playfield up. You'll find them just near the bottom of each drop bank.

Now back to the ramps.

I have a small issue with the fibre clips on the outside of the left ramp. The ramp flange is abnormally narrow, and the clips stick out too far and hit the wall of the machine. Solution, bend the clip.

Hold like this..
898324AD-A9D2-494F-9EE9-EB2A835C8434 (resized).jpeg

Push against nearby specialist clip-bending die (edge of workbench)..
601FAC95-1802-4DB9-BB43-3C6C00E67DFA (resized).jpeg

Until bent 90 degrees.
9BCDFDA0-8EB6-4E2D-8AFB-4A6490F53432 (resized).jpeg

Now they look like this..compared to a flat one for reference,
88730CEC-4BF0-487C-A671-7B6ACBD30341 (resized).jpeg

And sit close to flush with the edge of the ramp flange and clear the mirror blade.
37D80FA5-5FD4-4A80-9297-6D7BA13046C7 (resized).jpeg
625D717C-BEC8-4661-B20A-986713A8E1DA (resized).jpeg

I want to get the right ramp fitted as that is the one that presented the biggest challenge in getting the optic fibre mounted satisfactorily, and I think I’ve figured it out.

When looking to get the outside fibre of the right ramp down through the playfield there are really no suitable options.
B5948BE7-891B-42F0-83E5-9010A6B80A82 (resized).jpeg

There is one possible path that takes the fibre across underneath the ramp to a flasher hole, but it goes a little too early (too far up from the bottom of the ramp) and also is visible under the ramp. Yeah you could put some black shield on it, but....ah just too hard and not good enough.

I am going to drill a hole for it. Right about here..
816D3E40-7B8E-48A6-A1E4-56BE03C8267F (resized).jpeg

And I want to be super clever and put it on a bit of an angle, so it dives into the playfield at and angle that doesn’t kink the fibre too much. Very scientifically I’ll choose this angle..
CB09D9E3-8399-453B-A6E7-6EC864744F4A (resized).jpeg

Now I’d better check the under side to make sure we don’t exit into a lamp or something.
Looks like clear air.
4F7E81EC-A941-485C-BABC-69C621088555 (resized).jpeg

Good lord, I can’t believe I’m doing this to my beautiful, low play, HUO IMVE!
Pilot first..
BF7E7F13-1AA4-44AC-BB75-7AABAEE266D8 (resized).jpeg

Now the big guns.. 4.5mm cannon.
C5F5EBA6-67E5-4068-9804-421172AA6114 (resized).jpeg

Oh gawd, what have I done?

6FD2B798-5BB5-43EF-87A4-E22AE26287B4 (resized).jpeg
C7625D02-37CC-4796-8159-FC7221B1C4E0 (resized).jpeg
7C1F87B4-CA27-4928-996A-C8F595B3DF7F (resized).jpeg
98DD570C-5259-4736-B62F-3A040E416C86 (resized).jpeg

I think it’s perfect.
653DEDB9-3498-4C75-A0E9-C8133EEBDB1C (resized).jpeg
67D001F3-E310-4940-A1CA-FDA73A607336 (resized).jpeg

Here’s where it came through.
9563FFF1-D210-4E5C-954A-58C6D8F68C70 (resized).jpeg

Here are the ends of the fibres as they appear on both sides.
Left..
01FA234F-11DE-4FB7-8423-7404D0606684 (resized).jpeg

Right..
D8E877D8-7CE4-4285-8284-EE78CF701DFA (resized).jpeg

There are plenty of posts on hooking up these fibres in my Total Lightshow thread, so I won’t bore you with going through it here, but here are the LED pods as connected to the fibres.
Left..
E572A54C-9F04-442B-831B-408419674261 (resized).jpeg

Right. I may shorten the fibre on this side a bit and do a little tidy up, but pretty close to done as seen here.
FF0A1DA1-326E-4447-A269-F1AB13BD4B55 (resized).jpeg

Yes it can. It won’t be triggered by the machine’s ball search, but I can easily build a playfield switch timer that covers all switches. I will just use the same rule. No switch hit anywhere for x seconds, then fire the coils. Only issue with that is, that a stuck ball in the rubber behind a drop will probably just get caged behind the reset drops anyway. And I can’t fire the targets down.

Just a teaser here for the bit I like doing the most. The back box wiring.
I probably won’t be doing anything on this now until Saturday evening, so I’ll lead into the break with my bad-ass three-way 50V tap.
3C7E73EE-9873-4336-8BEF-618764581468 (resized).jpeg

It goes in J10, utilising the fuses that are already in the line.
7ED3E416-BA7C-4A72-9EB4-214C11798372 (resized).jpeg
1BA876A2-7CCC-4E0D-AFA4-0E0C2BBA4FF1 (resized).jpeg
33CC7E96-B9BE-4F8B-9B51-592B07B7CA97 (resized).jpeg

Two drop coils plugged in. One left for the knocker.
B0CC47A0-D957-4D20-B6A3-277ED61A58B1 (resized).jpeg

I might try this. On most ramps they match the flange width pretty well, and I find they disappear into the game under playing conditions,,a bit like all the switch wires etc that are visible on your average playfield, but in some cases they do protrude more than I would like, and the bend procedure is quick and easy. It’s sliding all the clips on and off the fiber that’s the pain.

Big shout out to j_m_ for making me think more about the ramp clips, and modifying each of them a bit for a more elegant fit. Brilliant! I spent a while this afternoon redoing the right ramp, taking each clip and bending as necessary for a neat, firm fit all round.

Where there is no flange on a ramp, the clip has to hold firm with just a friction fit, so squash it a bit like this..
IMG_0542 (resized).jpg
IMG_0543 (resized).jpg

Then hold like this and bend on a hard surface..
IMG_0544 (resized).jpg
IMG_0560 (resized).jpg

They then hold firm on the area with no flange..
IMG_0559 (resized).jpg

They look absolutely spectacular. Thanks j_m_!!!!
IMG_0556 (resized).jpg

I took a lot more photos. I couldn't stop looking at them, haha!
IMG_0564 (resized).jpg
IMG_0568 (resized).jpg

There are, of course, lots of places where you still need them full width, and they look great there, but now I've worked out how to mix it up and customise each one.
IMG_0541 (resized).jpg
IMG_0539 (resized).jpg

When this is a kit (and it already is for Tron), the user can bend each one that needs to be bent in about 5 seconds.

Here is the back box fitted out. There is plenty of Total Lightshow info out there on doing this. Let's take it as given.
IMG_0577 (resized).jpg

Drop bank power..
IMG_0578 (resized).jpg

RGB for ramps and one drop signal here..
IMG_0579 (resized).jpg

Red/blue sockets, factory white control, and the other drop signal here..
IMG_0580 (resized).jpg

Before I hook up any machine power I test everything with a battery. I use a button cell battery to fire the coils..
IMG_0576 (resized).jpg

OK, power on to test the drop target switches..
Targets up..
IMG_0574 (resized).jpg

Targets down. Oh no!..
IMG_0575 (resized).jpg

The middle target on the right bank is not registering. I spent quite a bit of time tracking this down to a dead opto on the target assembly PCB. Haven't seen that before. Well at least it's not my fault! I'll have to harvest a PCB off one of my other three-banks. I'll do that tomorrow.

Besides that everything worked first time!

So I have coils firing, target switches working. Now to just test the lights.

I'll just let the photos do the talking.
IMG_0590 (resized).jpg
IMG_0589 (resized).jpg
IMG_0586 (resized).jpg
IMG_0598 (resized).jpg
IMG_0595 (resized).jpg
IMG_0592 (resized).jpg
IMG_0594 (resized).jpg
IMG_0591 (resized).jpg
IMG_0599 (resized).jpg

And a quick fade test of all the controllable circuits.

I haven't coded the left drop bank yet, so no demo till I do that.

Of what I set out to do, I have still to install the apron and the real knocker. That will be all the hardware and I'll get that done tomorrow. Then I'll get to finalising the code, hopefully also tomorrow. So I may just create the Iron Man Premium within a week.

Apron time..

This is the metal apron that's going in..
IMG_0607 (resized).jpg

Complete with custom DMD..
IMG_0608 (resized).jpg

It mounts like the earlier metal aprons with the slots and front brackets.
IMG_0609 (resized).jpg
IMG_0610 (resized).jpg

Line up the brackets.
IMG_0613 (resized).jpg
IMG_0612 (resized).jpg

Screw them in snugly..
IMG_0614 (resized).jpg

Fit apron over..
IMG_0615 (resized).jpg

Fit the rear screws..
IMG_0616 (resized).jpg

Now for cables. Data and power
IMG_0617 (resized).jpg

Data cable replaces existing DMD cable, and passes through to the front..
IMG_0618 (resized).jpg

I just had to quickly make a power splitter..

Power and data into the apron..
IMG_0619 (resized).jpg

Turn it on..
IMG_0621 (resized).jpg

That's it for visible hardware. I will put the knocker in later.

I haven't done any tweaking to the placement of the IRON MAN insert lamps yet. I may not bother. Here is how they look lit, with the lamps still just loosely held in their original positions. To me they are fine as is.
IMG_0627 (resized).jpg
IMG_0628 (resized).jpg
IMG_0630 (resized).jpg

And some video of them flashing..

The finished article!
IMG_0632 (resized).jpg
IMG_0633 (resized).jpg
IMG_0634 (resized).jpg
IMG_0635 (resized).jpg
IMG_0636 (resized).jpg

Now to code.

https://redshiftled.com.au/Store.php

A very good question Eric, and one that I have grappled with from day 1!

It has been about delivery of light to the playfield. I spent a ridiculous amount of time and money researching light pipes, and they just couldn't get the job done to my satisfaction. I have demo videos of my SM with full replacement RGB GI using bulbs that I made that bring the LED above the playfield, and that worked, but I was not going to sink more money into it to get it to production. I am waiting for the TNA bulbs to be available from PBL and I am going to give it another try with those.

It's definitely something I want to do, for a game like ST that is built around 6 colour RGB it will be perfect. I also have to develop some more hardware to drive it. But the big issue is bulbs.

I noticed that..It's actually just reflections of the playfield insterts.

I had a stock hiccup. Stuff coming very soon.

They'll work.

Stay tuned..

I’ve added a test mode so that you can test all the controlled GI and ramp lights and test fire the coils. I think it’s pretty important to be able to test added features in the same way you can test the native pinball machine switches/lamps/coils. Particularly if your add-ons are switches/lamps/coils.

The testing is carried out using playfield switches and these switches will ONLY have any effect IF the test mode is active.

Here is a video demo.
Test mode is entered in game-over/attract state by holding down the left outlane switch for four seconds. Test mode is indicated by all the GI and ramp lights going out.

To test the lights press and hold each of the four drone stand up targets in turn.
Press and hold Air drone - Red component of ramp RGB and red controlled GI flash (smooth fade flash of course ),
Ground drone - Green component of ramp RGB flash,
Sea drone - Blue component of ramp RGB and blue controlled GI flash,
Tactical drone - White factory GI flash

To test the drop target banks, the coils will only fire if all targets in a bank are down, and you are in test mode.
Press left inlane switch - reset left target bank,
Press right inlane switch - reset right target bank.

To exit test mode press and hold right outlane switch for two seconds. Attract mode will restart once test mode is exited.
Starting a game will also exit test mode in case you forget.

In the video demo I show how the switches will and will not respond, depending on the test mode rules.

See if you can spot the hilarious and embarrassing moment when I can’t find the tactical drone target. You know those moments when your mind goes totally empty? I think I’m having more of those moments these days.

Totally agree. Anybody want to print them? I'm a buyer.

Well, because I am insane, I have now knocked up an adapter that will let me drive the p-roc RGB GI bulbs the Scott Denesi made for TNA. I have a batch of them coming in from PBL, so, sometime in the next couple of weeks I should have a version with complete RGB GI replacement.

Like I said, insane.

No problem. I have my Met set up like that.

Certainly in terms of rarity. So far there is one.

No. Same feed.

I'm procrastinating before getting started on the code for the left drop bank. I pulled out the left ramp and bent in all the necessary fiber clips. I also put together a bit of a more detailed procedure on mounting the fibers.

Before shot. Looking a little spikey.

After. So sweet.

Despite the great effort that goes into dots, and the amount of attention paid to the quality of that art and the apparent entertainment element contained therein, the primary reason for the screen on a pinball machine is information delivery.

The positioning of a screen in the apron places that information more effectively in the field of view of the player. It allows the player to read the information for longer, and affords a more comfortable neck position for constant movement between the ball and the screen.

Being able to watch the screen for longer also allows the player to see more of the entertaining animation as well as being able to get more information. Since using screens in this position I have noticed things in the dots, on all of my machines, that I didn’t know were there.

Putting a third on as a topper might be a neat idea for others to see the screen, and I believe has been done a few times.

There is that indeed. And further to the positioning of the field of view, there is also the issue of the depth of said field. The distance between your eyes and the ball when the ball is in the lower playfield puts the ball in a zone of focus that is different to that of the screen in the backbox. Each time you look to the backbox screen your eyes need to refocus. Over the course of a game I'm not sure how many times this happens, but I'm sure it adds up to many hundreds.

The screen in the apron is in the same focus zone as the ball in the lower playfield, so looking between the two requires no refocusing thereby reducing eye strain and fatigue. And further to THAT, with some optical prescriptions, it is even impossible to focus on the backbox screen as well as the ball in the lower playfield. I find that wearing some of my glasses forces me to look at the screen in the backbox over the rim of the lens, so my eyes are going in and out of the glasses lens over and over, causing incredible fatigue. No such problem when the screen is right there.

Be very careful taking it apart. The dot mask needs to line up with each individual LED, and there is a delicate vellum paper diffuser. Not a trivial exercise.

5v. The plug has the prongs in the right spot for the coin door. The prongs should be adjacent in the housing. GND in the point, then 5v in the center spot.

This is not my thread. It’s Iron Man’s thread. This is the thread for creating the greatest IM games out there. Have at it!

So, I’ve worked out how to do RGB GI, as can be seen on my latest Tron video in my Lightshow thread. And this poses a serious question for those waiting on IM. Do we just jump straight to RGB and toss the tri-colour? I changed out the entire PF GI (except inlanes) and it was pretty easy. This will delay kits a little as I have to buil some hardware, but it’s just small boards. For a tri-colour system, it’s pretty much ready to go.

I dunno..With five distinct colours in the IM character list, it sorta cries out for RGB. And why not shoot for super-premium??

Yes sir, I believe I do.

I'm a little short on bulbs and I'm not going to pull them all out of my Tron. I've ordered more bulbs, and my final hardware PCBs will be here next week. So let's sit back for a week or so while I get it all together and this Iron Man Premium, or now, Super-Premium will be in it's final stage.

It really lends itself to the dual channel, what with the Blue/Orange light cycle battle theme and all. I'm thinking of a single channel implementation for IM as the dual may be gratuitous. But then again, just do it because you can, right?

Just waiting on a PCB I made that will let me drive every GI bulb individually. I got to eight channels pretty quickly and realised I might as well shoot for individual bulb control and go the whole hog. Updates on that system are in the Total Lightshow thread, and as soon as it’s finished it goes in IM.

Almost at the final stage. Still testing, but looking very promising..

Signals now being sent by the machine. Just experimenting here with the attract mode and selectively locking certain GI bulbs to certain inserts. All the game code is still in there from when the GI was only tri-colour, so just have to continue with the code to actually drive the patterns, not trigger them.