Scoring is not affected. The system is way smarter than to just throw points away! I monitor the lamps and the switches. If there are points available at a target it is reset. You can see it on the fast scoring demo video. The targets continually reset all through the mode, then when play returns to normal, the target behaviour is completely different and dependent on the lamp state.

Yes you can, time after time after time. I need to put a video up of this happening to stop this vicious rumour.

I am striving for complete replication. I haven’t coded the any target pays another letter behaviour, but it shall be done. No point will get left behind. There’s a slight subtlety in the any-target-paying-another-letter scheme in that it only pays adjacent targets to the one you hit. This can be monitored and replicated as well.
To reset the target bank after each hit, in order to score the minor points for hitting an already lit target, may get into the realms of “too many resets” for some users, so I will make it optional. I will use one of the DIP switches to opt in or out of this behaviour.

You mean like this?

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I agree. These were on a used machine I bought. I have no idea where they came from.

The last of the playfield wiring are all the cables needed to drive the LEDs for the ramp optic fibres. There is a cable to bring the RGB from the main controller. A distribution board to send this to the individual LED drivers, and jumpers to connect them all up.
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Individual LED drivers and their LED pods that fit to the end of the optic fibres screw in anywhere nearby the points where the fibres will be coming through the playfield.

Left..
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Right..
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The small distribution board can go right at the bottom of the playfield.
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Jump from here..
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To the first of the left drivers. There is a jumper already connecting the two drivers.
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Then go from the second driver..
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Over to one of the right hand side drivers.
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Here they are all connected..
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Now the last one to connect back to the main driver. It's just a 4way RGB/Gnd.
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With loose ends that will get inserted into the main board.
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Here is the final, final group of cables to head back to the back box. 2 x coil groups (signal, 5V, trigger), red GI, blue GI, RGB ramp signal.
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And here is the final playfield wiring shot, with everything tied away and looking neat.
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I had to move the coil driver boards because my 50V cables couldn't reach the tap with the playfield up. You'll find them just near the bottom of each drop bank.

Now back to the ramps.

I have a small issue with the fibre clips on the outside of the left ramp. The ramp flange is abnormally narrow, and the clips stick out too far and hit the wall of the machine. Solution, bend the clip.

Hold like this..
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Push against nearby specialist clip-bending die (edge of workbench)..
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Until bent 90 degrees.
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Now they look like this..compared to a flat one for reference,
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And sit close to flush with the edge of the ramp flange and clear the mirror blade.
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I want to get the right ramp fitted as that is the one that presented the biggest challenge in getting the optic fibre mounted satisfactorily, and I think I’ve figured it out.

When looking to get the outside fibre of the right ramp down through the playfield there are really no suitable options.
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There is one possible path that takes the fibre across underneath the ramp to a flasher hole, but it goes a little too early (too far up from the bottom of the ramp) and also is visible under the ramp. Yeah you could put some black shield on it, but....ah just too hard and not good enough.

I am going to drill a hole for it. Right about here..
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And I want to be super clever and put it on a bit of an angle, so it dives into the playfield at and angle that doesn’t kink the fibre too much. Very scientifically I’ll choose this angle..
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Now I’d better check the under side to make sure we don’t exit into a lamp or something.
Looks like clear air.
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Good lord, I can’t believe I’m doing this to my beautiful, low play, HUO IMVE!
Pilot first..
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Now the big guns.. 4.5mm cannon.
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Oh gawd, what have I done?

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I think it’s perfect.
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Here’s where it came through.
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Here are the ends of the fibres as they appear on both sides.
Left..
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Right..
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There are plenty of posts on hooking up these fibres in my Total Lightshow thread, so I won’t bore you with going through it here, but here are the LED pods as connected to the fibres.
Left..
E572A54C-9F04-442B-831B-408419674261 (resized).jpeg

Right. I may shorten the fibre on this side a bit and do a little tidy up, but pretty close to done as seen here.
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Yes it can. It won’t be triggered by the machine’s ball search, but I can easily build a playfield switch timer that covers all switches. I will just use the same rule. No switch hit anywhere for x seconds, then fire the coils. Only issue with that is, that a stuck ball in the rubber behind a drop will probably just get caged behind the reset drops anyway. And I can’t fire the targets down.

Just a teaser here for the bit I like doing the most. The back box wiring.
I probably won’t be doing anything on this now until Saturday evening, so I’ll lead into the break with my bad-ass three-way 50V tap.
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It goes in J10, utilising the fuses that are already in the line.
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Two drop coils plugged in. One left for the knocker.
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I might try this. On most ramps they match the flange width pretty well, and I find they disappear into the game under playing conditions,,a bit like all the switch wires etc that are visible on your average playfield, but in some cases they do protrude more than I would like, and the bend procedure is quick and easy. It’s sliding all the clips on and off the fiber that’s the pain.

Big shout out to j_m_ for making me think more about the ramp clips, and modifying each of them a bit for a more elegant fit. Brilliant! I spent a while this afternoon redoing the right ramp, taking each clip and bending as necessary for a neat, firm fit all round.

Where there is no flange on a ramp, the clip has to hold firm with just a friction fit, so squash it a bit like this..
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Then hold like this and bend on a hard surface..
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They then hold firm on the area with no flange..
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They look absolutely spectacular. Thanks j_m_!!!!
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I took a lot more photos. I couldn't stop looking at them, haha!
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There are, of course, lots of places where you still need them full width, and they look great there, but now I've worked out how to mix it up and customise each one.
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When this is a kit (and it already is for Tron), the user can bend each one that needs to be bent in about 5 seconds.

Here is the back box fitted out. There is plenty of Total Lightshow info out there on doing this. Let's take it as given.
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Drop bank power..
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RGB for ramps and one drop signal here..
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Red/blue sockets, factory white control, and the other drop signal here..
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Before I hook up any machine power I test everything with a battery. I use a button cell battery to fire the coils..
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OK, power on to test the drop target switches..
Targets up..
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Targets down. Oh no!..
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The middle target on the right bank is not registering. I spent quite a bit of time tracking this down to a dead opto on the target assembly PCB. Haven't seen that before. Well at least it's not my fault! I'll have to harvest a PCB off one of my other three-banks. I'll do that tomorrow.

Besides that everything worked first time!

So I have coils firing, target switches working. Now to just test the lights.

I'll just let the photos do the talking.
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And a quick fade test of all the controllable circuits.

I haven't coded the left drop bank yet, so no demo till I do that.

Of what I set out to do, I have still to install the apron and the real knocker. That will be all the hardware and I'll get that done tomorrow. Then I'll get to finalising the code, hopefully also tomorrow. So I may just create the Iron Man Premium within a week.

Apron time..

This is the metal apron that's going in..
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Complete with custom DMD..
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It mounts like the earlier metal aprons with the slots and front brackets.
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Line up the brackets.
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Screw them in snugly..
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Fit apron over..
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Fit the rear screws..
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Now for cables. Data and power
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Data cable replaces existing DMD cable, and passes through to the front..
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I just had to quickly make a power splitter..

Power and data into the apron..
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Turn it on..
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That's it for visible hardware. I will put the knocker in later.

I haven't done any tweaking to the placement of the IRON MAN insert lamps yet. I may not bother. Here is how they look lit, with the lamps still just loosely held in their original positions. To me they are fine as is.
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And some video of them flashing..

The finished article!
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Now to code.

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