Photo: TractorDoc

(Topic ID: 112936)

CPR playfield swap

By bobnatlanta

9 years ago

Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

17 posts
8 Pinsiders participating
Latest reply 9 years ago by dothedoo
Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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Flight 2000 Stern Electronics, 1980

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#1 9 years ago

RWK

bobnatlanta

Pinside member

Atlanta, GA

19y 65,150 623 3 9

Swapping out a Flight 2000. It's going well, but I have a couple of questions:

1. What size drill bit do you use to properly size the wireform dimples? I've not been able to find a brad bit smaller than the 1/8" I've been using for the screw holes, and whatever the right size is, is it OK doing these wireform holes with a standard bit? If so, anything else I should do to protect the PF before drilling?

2. My pictures of the 'before' playfield are inadequate. What is the rule of thumb on the placement of the taller star posts vs the squat ones? Looks like the squat ones go with the multi-ball maze and the upper lane guides, while the taller ones go pretty much everywhere else. Is that generally correct?

And yeah, I feel like a complete butthead for not taking better pics...

Thanks!!
Bob

#2 9 years ago

BIL

dothedoo

Pinside member

12y 106K 7,265

I'm in the middle of a Xenon swap and have the same question for #1. I seem to remember HEP reverse drilling the holes with a standard bit to prevent chipping the clear, but I can't find anything now.

For question #2, tall posts are typically used to elevate the plastics over the short posts, so any post holes in the plastics will have tall posts under them.

#3 9 years ago

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,258 18

If you have to use a non brad point bit, make sure it is brand new.

Do not use a bit that has been rolling around the bottom of your tool box for years.....

#4 9 years ago

MMD

Freeplay40

Encore Pinball

Bothell, WA

10y 127K 4,007 13

#1. Pretty sure it's a 3/32" bit. Test in a piece of scrap plywood.

#5 9 years ago

RAA

toro1966

Pinside member

Poland, IN

11y 40,650 928 6

7/64 is what I used and I am doing a Mata Hari swap right now. 3/32 is what I used on the screw holes, but the wireforms were 7/64

#6 9 years ago

RWK

bobnatlanta

Pinside member

Atlanta, GA

19y 65,150 623 3 9

3/32 will work, but 7/64 is a nice, snug fit. Thanks for the info guys!!

#7 9 years ago

LCR

Chet

Pinside member

11y 53,050 1,450

Any one know a source for a brad point 7/64" bit? Plenty of 1/8" brad points around but not 7/64".

#8 9 years ago

NES

Spitfiren8

Pinside member

10y 82,550 1,937

Bob,

Hope these help with your post question. I just replaced my plastics cuz they were wrinkled like bacon! I took a few shots of the posts before putting them in the ultrasonic. Im going to get mine playing 100% for awhile before doing my pf swap.

If the pictures are too hard to see size difference hit me up and i can get you a better shot of a specific area.
image-191.jpgimage-387.jpgimage-68.jpgimage-855.jpgimage-724.jpgimage-325.jpgimage-223.jpgimage.jpg

#9 9 years ago

LCR

Chet

Pinside member

11y 53,050 1,450

OP
Quoted from bobnatlanta:
3/32 will work, but 7/64 is a nice, snug fit. Thanks for the info guys!!

Ordered a couple of these from Lee Valley Tools online..

#10 9 years ago

RWK

bobnatlanta

Pinside member

Atlanta, GA

19y 65,150 623 3 9

Thanks a million guys, I'm back to rebuilding the PF. Maybe playing later tonight.

Cheers!!
Bob

#11 9 years ago

RWK

bobnatlanta

Pinside member

Atlanta, GA

19y 65,150 623 3 9

Just a quick follow-up - ymmv on the size of holes required. I have at least two different gauges of wireform on this PF. I'm guessing one or more have been replaced from other games or might even be homemade. Testing for fit on a piece of scrap is highly recommended. Thanks freeplay40!!

#12 9 years ago

RWK

bobnatlanta

Pinside member

Atlanta, GA

19y 65,150 623 3 9

Time for a little break - here's the status report:PF Progress.JPG

Looking good with many thanks to pinsiders!!

#13 9 years ago

WTF

swanng

Pinside member

18y 50,800 482

Bob! Clean up those flipper bats!

#14 9 years ago

RWK

bobnatlanta

Pinside member

Atlanta, GA

19y 65,150 623 3 9

Ordered...These bats aren't just dirty, they're cracked and pretty useless, other than they hold the flipper mechanism together. Funny, I used to have a big bag of brand spanking new bats that I acquired years ago in a parts lot. It didn't really register when I used the last pair, I guess that was on my summer project, a Silverball Mania.

This machine has still got a few issues, so my thought about playing tonight was...um...beyond optimistic. Funky voltages still coming off the SDB, so I've missed something there. I switched out a working SDB and the game booted and spoke to me. Getting closer...

#15 9 years ago

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,258 18

OP
Quoted from bobnatlanta:
Funky voltages still coming off the SDB, so I've missed something there. I switched out a working SDB and the game booted and spoke to me

What voltages, and what readings?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

#16 9 years ago

RWK

bobnatlanta

Pinside member

Atlanta, GA

19y 65,150 623 3 9

No reading off of TP1 or TP 3, high voltages are correct. Weird...Stern SDB generation 'C'

#17 9 years ago

BIL

dothedoo

Pinside member

12y 106K 7,265

TP1 is regulated 5V and TP3 is the same after it leaves the board on J3 pin 13 and loops back in on pin 25. Based on the fact you were able to get the game working with another SDB that means the loop around on the connector is good and everything is good with the transformer/rectifier. You'll need to order a rebuild kit for the 5V regulator.

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