As noted on the web site that the Dimples are a Guide > NOT a Bible...
4. DIMPLES AND HOLES
The holes (which mean all the way through the wood from front to back) are matched to two or more selected factory playfields,
and you can follow them as the gospel. Our drilling should be dead-on with factory originality.
Dimples, on the other hand, we mapped based on a single factory playfield that was traced. They are provided for convenience during the swap process. For most items like bulbs and posts, any deviation isn't great enough to make any difference, if deviation exists. CPR's dimples are easily within 1mm in any direction of where they should be, which is an acceptable tolerance. The bottom, specifically, was imprinted using a dimple press, and the dot array was "stamped" into the wood in one shot. But that shot could have tiny variance in any direction.
This is explained so you don't start second-guessing parts positioning if you find a slightly better position. Better is better!
For crucial hardware (flipper mechanics, ball trough, etc), don't just plunge screws into the dimples without checking the physical position of the hardware itself. Always check that your hardware is in its proper position, then look to see where the screw holes in the hardware are positioned. If they are over the dimples, great. If they are not, slightly move the part and see if the dimples are close by.
Make a judgement call on either following the dimples, or not following the dimples in those cases. Proper (or better) positioning takes precedence over following the dimples. Don't feel "stuck" to the dimples! Remember, our dimple pattern is based on one
playfield, and through the thousands of original playfields made back at the factory, parts were hand-screwed via a template.
Every original playfield is slightly different in where the parts were drilled-in. This is normal. Go slow, it will all work.
http://www.classicplayfields.com/vote.html
Post edited by Stu: Kevin took over
Elkhart, IN
Toronto, ON
