(Topic ID: 114506)

Cowboys VS Aliens - A side by side rehab project


By Mk1Mod0

4 years ago



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  • 263 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Mk1Mod0
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There are 263 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 6.
#51 4 years ago

Yep. The overlay I scanned to get these images has removable "insert" areas so you can just use the licensed for sale ones. That's why the insert colors are so off. After the show I'll have time to sand it, seal it and use the overlay. (Love your avatar.)

#52 4 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Yep. The overlay I scanned to get these images has removable "insert" areas so you can just use the licensed for sale ones. That's why the insert colors are so off. After the show I'll have time to sand it, seal it and use the overlay. (Love your Avatar.)

hehehe

#53 4 years ago

Strip/repair/clean/wax and reassemble. Yeah, it's ugly, but it plays well with others!

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#54 4 years ago

Aaaaaaand this one's done. I'll start tearing down the EBD playfield in the morning. Shouldn't be near as bad as this one was.

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#55 4 years ago

Then again...
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Dirty, dirty girl. Dirty, filthy, nasty girl. We need to clean you up!
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#56 4 years ago

I am not a psychic, but I feel that something evil occurred here...
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Ready for cleaning.
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#57 4 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

I am not a psychic, but I feel that something evil occurred here...

*LOL* Clairvoyance at its finest. Perhaps an AMH is in your future.

#60 4 years ago
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#61 4 years ago

Space Invaders Stencil !!!!!!!!!!
want....

#62 4 years ago

I've been picking these items up over time for SI

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#63 4 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

I've been picking these items up over time for SI
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Nice! Paint, round two, begins.

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#64 4 years ago

Early results look promising...

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#65 4 years ago

sweet !!!

#66 4 years ago

Nice work!

#67 4 years ago

Note for anyone thinking about painting or repainting a Space Invader pin. Just because you find a great shade of gray in a "fill and sand" primer doesn't mean you should use it. It looks great but the stencils WILL NOT stick to it. Now you know.

Moving on...
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#68 4 years ago

hmmm... watcha gunna do now ?

#69 4 years ago

Fixed it. (Bought some actual gray paint.)

Meanwhile, on the other side of the garage...
Reassembly. Yes!!

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1 week later
#70 4 years ago

Mk -

Kinda lagged on following this one a bit, but since no one answered your question - yes, the silver-ish splatter is factory on the cab.

Great job on the APP!

#71 4 years ago

So what's the deal with the knocker always being a problem child? Are they just prone to failure because they are away from all the other solenoids and feel lonely? Jeez...

Meanwhile, after snipping the leads on the knocker, something is still blowing the under play field 1 amp slo-blow just as soon as I power up the machine. Happens so fast I can't track it down. I'll be setting up the camera after chow to see if I can see it happen so I have a place to start. Waaaaaay too many solenoids in this game. The Space Invaders by contrast has very few. I'll troubleshoot it once I have the EBD down solid and can T/S the boards in it. Cabs are complete with a few details left.

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#72 4 years ago

Looking good. Too bad you didn't make your TFP deadline. I didn't either With some persistence and work I'll have it ready for next year (and might sell it then to fund Alien Pinball).

#73 4 years ago

I really liked the way the EBD head looked with just the two color black and gold -- striking! I have a question.....I know you want to keep it original, but since your backglass is shot and you had to build a cabinet from scratch anyway, why didn't you go with the more desirable '81 cabinet and have a better chance of finding a backglass?

Onto the coils....the knocker is upstream from the playfield fuse so if the fuse for the 43V supply on the rectifier board is not blowing, then your knocker and coin lockout coils are ok. Flippers are also upstream from the playfield fuse, so measure all the other coils on the playfield including the individual drop target coils. They should read at least 10 ohms.

#74 4 years ago

I found the lower pop bumper was firing at the same time the fuse would blow. Looking into it later today. As for the back glass, while they can be found I could not justify paying out what the whole game originally ran me. I'll be documenting that solution here shortly...

#76 4 years ago

What happened to the red on the cab?

#77 4 years ago

It's not there yet? Maybe your connection is slow...

#78 4 years ago

Damn. Checked two coils and replaced their diodes and put them back in the game. Still blowing the under playfield fuse. Sigh.... looks like we'll be going coil to coil.

#79 4 years ago

OK, I give. Appears my easy fixes of caps and pins ain't getting the job done so I'm going full rebuild on the SDBs. Meanwhile I have other aspects of the projects that need attention.

1 week later
#80 4 years ago

SDB rebuild complete and quite successful. Now that I have verified all solenoids to be functional it is time to rebuild the playfield. Meanwhile, lets see what lights remain to be fixed and how bad the displays are.

Looks like I am down 3 GIs and two controlled here.
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2 GIs.
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All good here!
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Maybe a LITTLE work on the displays...
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#81 4 years ago

Awesome projects. Look forward to following them.

#82 4 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

SDB rebuild complete and quite successful. Now that I have verified all solenoids to be functional it is time to rebuild the playfield. Meanwhile, lets see what lights remain to be fixed and how bad the displays are.
Looks like I am down 3 GIs and two controlled here.
IMG_3759.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
2 GIs.
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All good here!
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Maybe a LITTLE work on the displays...
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that looks so cool out of the cabinet & all lit up !

#83 4 years ago

Yeah, well the method to the madness is this. I tried to fire up the SI after putting it all back together and am having major problems. It is much easier to troubleshoot with the P/F sitting on the floor than upside down against the back box. So with the EBD I thought lets get it all straight before I reassemble to make it easy on myself. Now that it's all good, back in the rotisserie for finishing touches. You gonna be at HAAG?

#84 4 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Yeah, well the method to the madness is this. I tried to fire up the SI after putting it all back together and am having major problems. It is much easier to troubleshoot with the P/F sitting on the floor than upside down against the back box. So with the EBD I thought lets get it all straight before I reassemble to make it easy on myself. Now that it's all good, back in the rotisserie for finishing touches. You gonna be at HAAG?

yeah. the october-ish event? i know they have smaller get-togethers during the year too.
but, definitely plan to be at the next one at that same hotel (around october).
you too?

kinda wish there was another TPF event in the next month from now

#85 4 years ago

We'll be there. My plan is to "take Texas" like Zitt did last year. I'd go to more if I had the time. The Houston show is a perfect one for us at only 4 hours away. The drive to and from Dallas is exhausting. I enjoy both shows but for different reasons.

#86 4 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

We'll be there. My plan is to "take Texas" like Zitt did last year. I'd go to more if I had the time. The Houston show is a perfect one for us at only 4 hours away. The drive to and from Dallas is exhausting. I enjoy both shows but for different reasons.

yep. me too

#87 4 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

SDB rebuild complete and quite successful.

Just curious, what's an SDB?

#89 4 years ago

Ah-HA!

Themoreyouknow.jpg

#90 4 years ago

Mk1Mod0 - just read the whole thread - this is excellent work! This is much more of a project x2 than most people would attempt. I'm glad that you're fixing up these two!

As no one answered your spinner question, I thought I would: it's from Stern's Dracula. I don't need the spinner, but it's a pretty neat looking one.

Thank you also for the documentation - very cool to read your process on them. I don't really do a lot of woodwork - or acrylic(!). That project is also beautiful (from the pics and testimonials) - great job.

-Nick

#91 4 years ago

Update for the week.

So one could see looking at the above pictures that I was merely some reassembly away from having a working game. Solenoids worked as they should, lighting was manageable and even the sound out of the 31 year old speaker was decent. Naturally the reassembly process presented its own problems with missing parts, holes in the wrong place and DON'T GET ME STARTED on the repro plastics I bought. Anyways, after getting it to a place that would suffice for testing I put the playfield into the cabinet. Boom - half the lights don't work, solenoids are acting funny and to top it all off it won't even initiate a game. WTF!!!!!!!! I. Tried. Everything. Spent a loooong night swapping chips - boards - cleaning plugs. All to no avail. The frustration point was very near the "I'm gonna start throwing sh$# across the room" point when I decided it was best I just call it a night.

So after 7 good hours, I had a thought. Most of this might relate to a problem with the solenoid expansion board under the playfield. So up goes the playfield, inspection shows nothing, plug and replug and fire it up while the playfield is upright. Boom - everything works. Cool! I lower the playfield back down and BAM! Back to the same problems. If I had hair, it would have been pulled out at this point. (Summertime here and I spend most of my days fully suited for welding. Too hot for hair so I just buzz it all off. And I'm going bald. So there.) With the machine in attract mode, I begin to raise the playfield when the problems go away. Wait, what??? So with the playfield tilted back up, I start a head to toe inspection. Plugs are solid... no loose connections... no chafed spots... I cannot reproduce the problem. On about the third iteration I figure out that it happens as the playfield support brackets touch the lock down bar receiver. OK, so something is grounding out. Then, with my little trusty flashlight in hand, I find it. Holy cow. It's all in the details, man... all in the details. Can you see it?
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#93 4 years ago

Stupid diode!!! So now any problems left with the EBD are manageable. New flipper switches, replace a few light board parts and order one ball gate.

On the other side of the garage, SI is booting up just fine but I have no solenoids. Diagnostics found no power at the end of the line so I began tracing backwards. I have 43VDC at the board. I have a good plug. As soon as I plug the sucker in, the power at the plug drops to 3.8VDC. Still have 43 further back on the board. This one is confounding me.... It is not blowing fuses, power is up on the board, but is drops to nothing as soon as I plug in the playfield. (J-2 for clarification. It carries the 43VDC directly to the 1amp slo-blow under the playfield.) Thoughts? Ideas? Personal insults aimed at my intelligence?

#94 4 years ago

Here's hoping that someone more knowledgeable than me shows up. *AHEMnickbaldridgeAHEM*

'scuse me.

Anyway, congrats on spotting that diode. Yeesh. I could feel the frustration in your post. What a relief to finally figure it out.

#95 4 years ago

Mk1mod0, I'm not an expert (at anything), but this would be my thought: something is shorted to coil voltage and causing the drop. No fuses are blowing? The next step is probably to unhook any coil on the 43v line, leaving one connected and work through. Time consuming, but you'll find the problem!

You'll have to disconnect one side of the coils anyway (at least) to test the coils (via resistance).

Also - a backwards or shorted diode may cause this behavior (possibly). Test them all while messing with the coils.

If you're not blowing, say, your GI fuse, then one of the above should do it.

If you have the schematic, check your wire colors on each side of each diode.

I hate when something shorts in the out hole area. Always takes forever to find.

Good luck! It's not gonna be easy, but you'll find it. If someone has a better idea, I'm all ears!

#96 4 years ago

Wait... J2 on the solenoid driver board? Or the mpu? A3 j2 is just the flippers/knocker/test switch and coin lockout (special solenoids). Other solenoids should fire with that unplugged and a game started. Mpu j2 is the switch matrix.

I know I'm missing something. If j2 on the sdb disconnect the knocker.

#97 4 years ago

Oh, probably the transformer board a2. J2 on that, pin 2 is the bus. Follow that wire color down. It does go to a fuse, but it is transformed before that via zener and bridge. Check those components. Bad zener, maybe? Hope something I said helps. Following that wire would be the second thing I tried after testing the rectification. I suspect something in those two components. But I'm often wrong!

#98 4 years ago

My bad. It's J-1 on the power supply board. Specifically, J-1-6. That's the 43 VDC supply to the p/f. I think you had the right idea on your first post. I need to start checking the coils one by one and figure out which one is sucking all the juice. Has to be a big open somewhere, but no coils fire when I turn it on and disconnecting the knocker was step one. Thankfully the game only has 7 coils on the field not counting the flippers which are not in that circuit. The EBD has like 20 something coils. Yikes.

The power supply board was broke down to parade rest and rebuilt with all new components. It seems fine.

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#99 4 years ago

Meanwhile, I hereby declare the $30 backglass experiment to be a success. Just a little adjusting and we'll be there.

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#100 4 years ago

If you pull the 1 amp SB on the playfield and read voltage on the fuse holder brown wire do you have 43V? If not, look at the flippers for problems since their power connection is before the fuse.

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