(Topic ID: 335202)

Couple Earthshaker Tech questions

By Katmandoo22

1 year ago



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#1 1 year ago

First time post. Hope I am following rules. I got an Earthshaker a little over a year ago. I am not an expert on electronics, but am learning. Was going to be a long term project. Won’t be able to do a playfield restore for a couple years, so would like to get it up and running so people can play it for now. When I booted up a month ago, pop bumpers and shaker not going, but all other solenoids worked. Saw a few threads on possible reasons. I got a new interconnect board due to previous owners traces, scorching, a couple swollen resistors. I also put in a new led score board. Now all flippers, bumpers, shaker, front and back subway solenoids don’t work. The solenoids at drain and eject hole for zone 5 do still work. I am getting fuse f7 blowing on aux power board. When I test the fuse holder f7 without the fuse in it and machine unplugged it shows a low amount of current. Hopefully someone can help.

Here are a couple pictures that I have questions on as well. I have a green ground wire that is attached to the ground braid, but loose on the other end. It is located in the lower left of back box. What should this be hooked to and would that affect things? I need to replace solenoid on back right corner, but can’t figure out how to take it apart. I can kind of see what looks like a hex nut, but it is mostly behind the sleeve. Last question for now. On the interconnect board there was only one wire on connector for J11. It was brown and orange on pin 3. The manual has a bunch of wires listed for j11, but I don’t see any of those wires. Also, I saw a bunch a photos and videos of other Earthshaker and it looked like they also only had one wire there. It looks like the wiring is all original, but the manual has lots of wires different than what I see. Is this common for manuals to be messed up? Thanks in advance for any help.

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#2 1 year ago

To take your fried coil out drive the silver pin out of the slotted popper head with a drift drive pin punch. Taking the plunger out of the melted coil sleeve may be more difficult as it may have melted onto the metal plunger. I've gone as far as to unwind the winding completely and hack away at the plastic to save the plunger itself. But in your case I see it has moved freely from photos so you are good to go! That "hex nut" is a roll pin that holds the plastic to the metal coil plunger so that does not come out.
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#3 1 year ago

I will give that a try to get that pin out so I can take the solenoid apart. Thanks on that. I hope someone can still help with the other questions. I’m curious on the current flowing at fuse f7 even though there is no fuse in place. Does that mean something is wired incorrectly or shorting? Thanks

#4 1 year ago

The green wire connects to the speaker and shouldn't contribute to the other problems.

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