Follow the wires going to the motor and you will find a relay. Motors are not controlled directly by the driver board. The driver board activates the relay, which turns on the motor. Quite often the solder conections on the back of the relay become cracked. Try re-flowing the solder dots on the back of the relay. Also, going into solenoid test, there should be one to test the motor. Listen closely for a click of the relay. If you don't hear a slight click then the relay isn't energizing.

As LOTR_breath suggested I would reflow the solder on the relay. You can test the inputs and outputs on the relay with a DMM. Solenoid test will not energize the relay, but the motor test will.

make sure that motor doesn't have it's own fuse. If you ground the tab of the transistor of that motor to ground for a second, should move the motor.

Unplug the motor from the game. If you have an extra wall wart plug laying around, cut the end off, and strip back some wire. Plug in the wall wart, and touch the ends to the motor tabs. If it doesn't rotate, you have a bad motor. If it moves, your problem lies somewhere else.

Excellent title for this post!

... or use a 9V battery

I fixed one of these machines once, that bridge thing is much larger than I would have thought, and a pain to dick around with, gl!

Check Q58.

So you want him to hook up 120V AC direct to the motor? Really? That will pretty much guarantee you WILL need a new motor even if you didn't before.

Do you have a meter?

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/tutorials/120-electronics-tutorial-transistors

Scroll down to testing transistors with a DMM.

Yes.

Using diode function on the meter, ck the transistor and then compare the results to another known working transistor. By grounding the tab, you have ruled out the motor, relay, and wiring. Probably is the transistor, but could be a component farther up the line in that circuit.

Wall warts.....12v dc output max. Wall wart is old school slang for ac/dc converters

gotcha. Thought you were saying just a standard outlet wire. Did not know what Wall Wart was, never heard that before.

I would also reflow the Header pins on J104 J118 and J127 if your Transistor is nt the problem .

These games are getting old , so could just be cracked solder joint on the header or wire on a connector

When you ground Q58 to make the motor run, you are actually "bypassing the transistor" and turning the motor on manually. This proves that from after the transistor in the circuit, that everything from the main board connector, the wiring, the relay board and then the motor all are good. This does indicate that in test or game mode that Q58 is not turning on, or the circuitry just behind the transistor is bad. Soooo, your easiest and first step is to REPLACE Q58. It is the most likely failure. Take out your book and look at the circuit for Q58, you can see a smaller transistor that turns it on, then the signal comes from an IC before that. To be sure, replace both transistors and this will 99% sure fix it without much other troubleshooting or hunting around the board.
Just be sure and pay close attention or write down the wire connectors when you remove them to take the board out. All the connectors are keyed so as to go in only one way BUT not so much. Use your digital camera and take some pics of the connectors to make reassembly go much easier for you.
Hope this helps...

nice tittle- lol

Same problem on my GI ..I found out the game needs to warm up ..or go into test mode and turn the motor and ramp up then down a couple of times...my has been saying island error for years but always works fine after doing those things

I did a reset on my GI, pulled the batteries out and gave it about 10 min's power off. No more error code and the island works fine now. So I still don't know how that happened or what the reset did, but it has been years now and still working just fine.

Taxi, or Gilligan's Island?

The manual for Gilligan's Island shows all the transistors are being used.

That said, it sounds pretty unusual that Q58, a TIP102, could get fried when its only job is toggling a relay.

Was there any event or repair work that happened right around when the motor stopped working?

Bill

seems like a bad connection somewhere. Maybe a predriver transistor went out? Did you use a multimeter and test out the TIP102 for the island relay?