I've attached some hi res photos. I have the board with me today at work with my DMM and my Nikkon camera so I can test connections and take photos of requested spots if needed. So far on this board,
I've replaced the following:

C1
C12
R192
C30
C11
C5
C7
C6
C8
C2
BR1
BR2
BR3
BR4
BR5
J114
J115
J121
J101
J102
LM323K

It also looks like some work was done on this machine before I got it, these look like these have had some solder work done on the joints
Q40
Q42

On the J Connections I also replaced the connections on the wires, when I got the machine, they were either burnt or britel. Ill attach photos of these as well, I checked them numerous times and they look right to me, but if someone see's a issue let me know.

(the J connectors/crimping was done a week or 2 after i got the machine, and haven't had a issue, I bring it up now, since removing the board numerous times, a couple of the wires where 2 were crimped into 1 hole had come out. im 99.99% sure I have put them back in the same place. later they had fallen out again, (crimping 2 in 1 hole isn't a great secure crimp) so I soldered the wires together and crimped them again, sorry for the lousy work on the yellow wire connector, it was a hard angle to reach in this instance, I plan on re-doing them when I get the machine up and running again).

I'm a bit curious on C1 and C12, I ordered CCA-0.001uF-50V from GPE, they look like they matched the original, but they physically look different. can someone tell me if they are okay or wrong?
Back.jpg
Front.jpg

Screen Shot 2016-09-20 at 10.17.14 AM (resized).png

20160920_075419 (resized).jpg

20160920_075426 (resized).jpg

20160920_075444 (resized).jpg

20160920_075450 (resized).jpg

20160920_075433 (resized).jpg

20160920_075500 (resized).jpg

20160920_075507 (resized).jpg

20160920_075512 (resized).jpg

20160920_075528 (resized).jpg

That's my fault, I meant C1 and C12. oops. I edited the post. But the capacitor I used is correct, Right?

Thanks!

Ill check again tommorow but so far no shorts found

Ill be working on my pinball machine most of today. I had a aligator clip on pin 1 of J3 of the opto 7 board and touched every purple combo wire I could find both below the playfield and in the back box. No beep/shorts from my DMM. What else i can check?

Ok new update. I figured id plug 1 plug in at a time to the wpc power driver until i saw the j108 go back to 80V and then trace what i plugged in last. But heres the thing. At no point did it get any voltage. It stayed at 0V and the J106 J107 and J108 18V header pin all stayed at 18V. I plugged it ll in (minus the dmd) and it all seems ok. No smoke yet. I only had it on for 20 or so seconds. Now its time be cautious and watch it

I also retested ll the WPC power driver test points. They are all unchanged. Still about 80V for the TP6

Ok almost perfect. I fixed my thing motor power board. My thing hand works perfectly again. It was giving me issues before. Problem was a broken 3 pin connector. I decided might as well replace both the 2 and 3 pin connectors. The game powers on. No smoke. And plays fine. Except! I noticed the magnet on the left wasnt working. Luckily the first thing i got and added to this machine was the magnet fuse kit. Glad i did. The fuse was blown. I replced it and powered on the machine again. I hear a buzzing/humming noise and it stops. Power off and on machine again. No noise. But fuse is blown again. I put another new fuse in. Noise returns. But it sounds like its coming from the magnet? What should i check and/or do?

20161001_163007 (resized).jpg
20161001_164136 (resized).jpg

Tested the purple wire on the magnet connector. 83V like TP6

20161001_184049 (resized).jpg

Just removed the magnet driver and surprise surprise its been touched before. Ill refurbish this next.

20161001_185854 (resized).jpg

I noticed that the middle diode is vurnt up as well on that magnet power board. That may have been my smoke frim under the playfield from before. Ill replave all the electronics on the board and see how she runs. Still a lik worried about the 83V from test point 6. Doing dome googling I see some people had the same 83V im getting and day that 70v is ok. I may have to check some other stuff once the magnet boards refurbished.

So If I'm reading this right, the 83V could be okay, and I shouldn't put too much worry into it?

Sorry I've been away for a while, figured I'd update everyone (its been tough, since I haven't really touched the machine since my last post, since it's been in my new house I don't live in or can move into yet, long story) but anyway, glad to say that its still up and running the few times I have touched it.I fixed the magnet driver and the thing motor board and the machine has been working great and making me very happy. I just wish I had more time to play it lately, it'll be so much better when I move into the new house.

Thank you everyone for all your help!! (now do I dear replace that 5v LM323K with the aftermarket much more efficient and cooler running PSU5. hmmmmmm...)
~John

Annnnddddd the same problems back.. ugh. This time I replaced a few thingz before it came back. I replaced the bookcase plastics, the wire rail that goes across the playfield, with it the bulb socket and ball switch, the red thing box. And I had to resolder the blue wire that came off the thing motor. I was getting the machine ready to bring to pintastic new engand in 2 weeks. The same resistors getting hot and smoking. I only touched stuff on or under the playfield, nothing in the back box. The solenoid for the kickout from where the thing hand picksup the ball from is constant on. I wonder if the issue before was a crossed wire under the playfield, and since i was under it, its making contact again. I didnt notice anything. Ill gave up for today but will go back later this week with a fresh rested set of eyes. Its just perfect timing. I disconnected the dmd, bookcase and thing motor, issues remained, and i think was a lil worse without them

I'm thinking there's a issue within the wiring harness, which would explain why it went away before and is now back. Question, and I hope someone still checks this topic to ask, what do pins 6 and 9 connect to on J122? I looked at the schematics and I found that the thing eject hole is pin 2 on J122, but doing a check with my MM, looks like Pin 2 also connects with Pin 6 and 9 (6 and 9 being the same wire so it makes sense they connect, but not pin 2) is this normal? (I don't think it is) can anyone tell me whats on the other end of the harness? also, with the connector disconnected from the power driver board, I measured all 3 voltages on pins 2, 6, and 9, each one shows 83V which is what my 50V test point measures at. Hopefully I'll get a response soon, if not I may assume this thread is dead, and open another thread for just J122

Ok, think I found what I needed. Now I know where the wires should go to. But still curious if I should see continuity between J122-2 and J122-6/9

Screen Shot 2017-06-26 at 8.38.35 AM (resized).png

Ok looking at that diagram, looks like J122-2 J122-6/9 connect so my MM results are expected.. hmm

Thanks for the confirmation, thats what I figured later on.
I moved the current issue here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taf-thing-eject-hole-solenoid-stuck-on-5-donation-reward-to-pinside#post-3838525 with a bounty/reward ^-^ right now I'm hoping its a transistor. I'll be able to test within the next day or so. I got 25 coming on Friday