(Topic ID: 171439)

Tech: Corvette won't boot---No 5VDC ?

By kvan99

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by kvan99
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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traces 5V Br2+C5 compo-side.jpg
#1 7 years ago

Hi all, I'm stumped I was finishing up the shop job on my Corvette, I was playing a game when it resetted itself, I waited it booted up I figured it just the dreaded C5 or BR going bad. However I changed out the BR2 and C5 a year ago. I noticed the LED 4 for the +5vdc was off...I pulled the board and checked the caps and BRs again, I also reheated the fuse holders and J101 and 1102 headers. No Joy, I pulled my board from my NF and the game booted with the new board. So I know there is something is wrong with the driver board. I went ahead and replaced the LM323k cause that is the last piece of the +5vdc that was not recently replaced. I'm not sure what to look for next...any help is appreciated.

#2 7 years ago

I cannot count the number of times I have seen those boards with missing eyelets. People often try to change those caps by heating the solder then wiggling the caps back and forth until they come out. In the process they sometimes pull an eyelet out with it. Soldering the new cap in may temporarily bridge the traces but it rarely lasts. My guess is that when C5 was changed an eyelet came with it.

#3 7 years ago

Also check the input voltage at J101 and J102.
Also check the connector plug at J101 and J102 for bad crimp contacts, maybe even change them with trifurcon crimp contacts.
If there is no voltage at the right connector points, check the connector at the transformer.

#4 7 years ago

You started down the wrong path attempting to cure the reset issue.
Here is the better path.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Having said that, you probably did pull a through hole.
The simple (but ugly) method now is to add jumpers between BR2 and C5.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#5 7 years ago

traces 5V Br2+C5 compo-side.jpgtraces 5V Br2+C5 compo-side.jpg
traces on component side

#6 7 years ago

Thanks Zaza you are the best man. Thanks Inkochinto swapped another board in and machine fired up. Yes Chris I agree, it looks that way but I was cleaning up a prior operators work he had installed the cap outside of the board and had ran wires to the back of it. Thanks for the help, I guess I pulled an eyelet. I can't seem to pull that cap without damaging the eyelet. The weird thing is it was working and playing fine after the cap change. I'll run a jumper and report back.

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from kvan99:

I can't seem to pull that cap without damaging the eyelet.

The best way to remove snapcaps is to heat both legs simultaneously. Once the solder is molten on both legs, they come out pretty easily. the old method of heating one leg, rocking it, heating the other leg, rocking it...isn't very likely to succeed. I use a "spade" tip that heats both legs at the same time. Add solder...heat...the cap comes right out.

If you'd rather not run jumpers, you can "stitch" the hole. See:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22
That is the method I use. I prefer (and my customers prefer) the improved cosmetics along with 100% full function.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#8 7 years ago

So now I have to tell you why this thing is confusing me so much...I went ahead and rang out the BR2 and C5 and the strange thing is that both the neg and pos leg of the BR are ring with both legs of the C5? I replaced the BR again thinking it was shorted out but have the same result....is there a Zener Diode somewhere that's blown?

#9 7 years ago

No zeners in the 5V regulation circuit. Work through the process I linked to above. Even though the bridge buzzes to the cap, run jumpers. With the board out, the connections might be different.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#10 7 years ago

Well this thing had me confused to no end, I even compared the readings to the driver board I took out of NF. But as usual there wasn't only one failed component there were 2...the shorted LM323K and the damaged C5 eyelet which I assume happened when I took it a second time. And not knowing I went looking else where. Long story short it just didn't make sense so I looked for the short in several places till I noticed the voltage regulator was ringing out all the time instead of momentarily like the NF board with ohmmeter. Replaced Ther VR and Stitched C5 and game booted up.....thanks all around gents.

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