Anyone have a source for working LT-5 slave boards and/or sensor boards inside of the motor?
My LT-5 is acting wacky and it would be nice to have a known working set to compare against and narrow down the problem.
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Anyone have a source for working LT-5 slave boards and/or sensor boards inside of the motor?
My LT-5 is acting wacky and it would be nice to have a known working set to compare against and narrow down the problem.
Quoted from mjwilliams:The only source available when mine was fried a couple months ago:
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a-18951.html
Thanks. Anyone specialize in repairing these game-specific boards?
Quoted from BigLebowski:It´s very hard to repair these boards outside of the machine because you need the input from the CPU and the response from the hall sensor in the engine for the boards to do anything. There´s a few helpful links to get you started but you will need to either remove the engine from the machine or do all your tests inside the pin. If you decide to remove the engine you´ll have to simulate the signals from the CPU, which is perfectly doable depending on your electronics skills.
If you explain a little better what you mean by "acting wacky" I might be able to come up with a few hints where to start, because I recently repaired mine and still know how it should be working.
Here are the links to get you an idea of the workings of the engine:
http://passionforpinball.com/lt5adjust.htm
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Corvette
Here's what I know:
1) Motor fails self test:
2) Motor can move left and right and center itself, but it moves with a jerky/unstable motion.
3) Reading 2.4VDC to 2.6VDC from hall effect sensor (extreme left to extreme right) as measured at input on slave board.
4) Extreme left/right optos are working correctly.
5) When in attract mode, the coils on one of the sides sometimes will be energized (should always be disabled in attract mode)
6) When LT-5 is *disabled* in settings, coils still get energized (should be disabled) ... After I noticed this I unplugged the coils from the slave board to prevent them from getting burnt out (they were running extremely hot...hurt to touch and I started to smell a hot/burning plastic smell).
So at a minimum, the circuitry related to enable/disable state isn't working correctly. Perhaps this is contributing to the jerky motion. My understanding is that the master board itself handles this and actually sends the 20VDC (or is it 12VDC?) for driving the coils over the ribbon cable (but there's also a DAC on the slave board???). I.e., when disabled the master board should NOT be sending 20VDC over the ribbon cable. But perhaps I've misunderstood the documentation that's out there. I need to spend some time looking over the schematics and re-reading the doc that's out there so that I have a fuller understanding of what's going on.
I'm not necessarily measuring anything wrong with the sensors themselves, but I'm not sure what VDC range I should be reading from the hall effects sensor as measured at the header on the slave board.
As a first step I've ordered new ribbon cables (CPU -> master board and master board -> slave board) just to rule out any weird issues there. The master -> slave board ribbon cable was badly pinched at one time.
Quoted from BigLebowski:The voltages you´re measuring from the Hall sensor are in the range where they should be, so that´s good.
I´d start with the coils. The DISABLE signal is 5V coming from the master board on pins 18+20 of the ribbon cable. It´s actually generated on pin2 of the LS374 (U2), then inverted on U4 (ULN2803) and then passed on to the slave board. For the coils to become active the LS374 must send out a HIGH.
The ribbon cable is a good first stab. After that I´d look at Q1 and Q2 on the slave board. They should pull Q3 and Q4 low to disable the coils.
Thanks for the insights/clarifications. The new ribbon cables are coming in today, so I should be able to drill in some more this weekend.
P.S. That's great detail you have there and well beyond what I've read elsewhere so far. Is this written down/formally documented anywhere?
Quoted from joetechbob:Thanks for the insights/clarifications. The new ribbon cables are coming in today, so I should be able to drill in some more this weekend.
P.S. That's great detail you have there and well beyond what I've read elsewhere so far. Is this written down/formally documented anywhere?
Ribbon cables came in. I accidentally ordered the wrong length ribbon cable for the CPU -> master connection, so I was only able to replace the master -> slave board ribbon cable.
The motor now will randomly pass self tests in a "sloppy" manner. Basically it gets wobbly/shaky as it rotates clockwise past the 90 degree position. I didn't get a chance to debug further yet.
Quoted from BigLebowski:No, unfortunately I never got around to do it in English. Parts of it are documented in a German pinball forum (in German).
Could you share the link? Perhaps I can use Google translate to glean some useful information.
Non LT-5 question: I'm finding the skid pad ramp (ramp shot from upper flipper) hard to hit. E.g., if the ball is served up from the LT-5 lock or kickback, it only makes it all the way up the ramp maybe 1 out of 10 times (and even then it *barely* makes it). If, however, I hit the inner loop or right orbit solid and hit the ramp then I make it more like 7/10 times. (This is if my shot is solid on the ramp.)
I did a full flipper rebuild, even replacing the coil as the old one was bad, so the mechanically the flipper is solid. I did notice, however, that the flipper was using a red sleeve coil...
...Is red the correct coil for the upper flipper, or should it be blue?
Note 1: One other variable is that the right side of the ramp is sightly deformed (apparently melted by bulb in the past). I found a pinsider that has a spare ramp, so I can try eliminate that as a potential cause once installed. It doesn't seem like the deformation should impact the ball motion *that* much, but maybe the engineered design is that the flipper has just barely enough power to make the ramp when the ramp is perfect.
Note 2: I've noticed a good half of the time, balls served up by the LT-5 lock or kickback tend to bounce around a bit, and not cleanly roll over the flipper, so that may be impacting power, too. Anyone have a fix/mitigation for that?
Quoted from BigLebowski:I sent you a pm with the link.
The behaviour could be caused by the old ribbon cable, because the inputs for the DA converter are coming that way. Maybe one bit is missing or something.....
Another thing you should check is whether the coils in the assembly are wired correctly. It should look like this:
Thanks for the link!
Good call on the coil wiring. I see on the bottom of mine that someone wrote in with sharpie at one time to label coil locations...So it's possible someone had it pulled apart to that degree and messed up when putting it back together.
Quoted from Pinball_Basement:For the first time ever, the corvette Motor Drive Master board has been reproduced and is available for sale.
Price is $49 and will be up on my site soon, available here on pinside and available via PM.
https://pinballbasement.com/collections/wpc89-boards/products/a-18532-corvette-motor-driver-master-board
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See this is out of stock. Still making these?
Quoted from Xdetroit:I’m on a mission to restore this game and it’s going to be a lot of work. I’m going to powder coat all the metal cabinet parts red (I’m going to leave the coin door texture black though). Does anyone have a couple legs they want to part with?
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Oh my. What's the story on this one?
Quoted from Xdetroit:My friends cousin is a garbage truck driver and he saw it outside. So, one of my friends asked the homeowner about it and he just gave it to him. So, I decided to restore it to its former glory. The game actually worked to our surprise. It needs some major work.
Crazy. How bad is the cabinet? Any guess how long it sat outside?
Quoted from Xdetroit:I’m guessing it wasn’t out for too long. The bottom of the cabinet needs to be replaced but the rest is in good shape. I’ve got the cabinet emptied out enough to start that work now. Hopefully tomorrow. Unfortunately, it sat out long enough to fade the artwork a bit. Notice the color under where the hinge was. That’s the head down position
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Glad you are able to save it. Wild that someone would put it outside and exposed.
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