@silverball0: can´t help you with that plastic part because my Corvette restoration is still in its early stages, but wanted to ask you where you got the ramps from. PSPA? Or did you find another source?

Hi silverball0,
PSPA also has the big combo ramp (called race track ramp) in their shop and even the lower decal. Just the upper decal is sold out there.
What did you do about the grey-yellow decal underneath the Skid plate ramp? Did you get that from somewhere, too?
Cheers
Herbert

Hi,
for my soon to start Corvette restoration I´m in need of a few playfield decals:

- the X-mas tree top decal
- the loop ramp decal (the gray-yellow one saying SKID PAD)
- the backboard decal (the big one)
- both race track decals

Does anybody offer those or does anyone have printable files or hi-res pictures of those?

Thanks
Herbert

exactly, that´s one of them. Funny that I didn´t find that, although I have a permanent query for Corvette on Ebay......

exactly, that´s one of them. Funny that I didn´t find that, although I have a permanent query for Corvette on Ebay......

that one I got already from MoP

Hi silverball0, was your friend successful in making a copy of the Skid Pad Ramp decal? I´m still looking for one, because that ramp is also broken on mine (like the other two).

Just a quick warning: there´s a guy on Ebay offering backboard decals for Corvette. If there aren´t two versions of the backboard then his decal is just crap. The left hole is way, way off from where it should be and in the top right corner the decal is just a bit too wide.

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I´m about to reassemble my playfield and I stumbled over a mismatch between the manual and my pictures. It´s this area:
P1030849.JPG

According to the manual there should be a post with a sleeve somewhere behind the VUK hole:
Untitled.jpg

Can somebody help me out with a picture what this area should look like?

My second question is: which plastic was here before it broke off?
P1030852.JPG

Hi Dennis,
thanks for the hint with the plastic!!!

Re. the post: Are you sure that´s the one? Because it´s left of the VUK, not behind. Unless the drawing is totally off...
Yours could be the "K" in the drawing, but it doesn´t have a ring.
BTW, that post is also missing in my game. Instead somebody put a post on the left side of the ZR-1 ramp....
P1030895.JPG

Herbert

that´s what I´m thinking, too. Thanks everybody, I´m sure I´ll be back with more questions....

.....and here comes the next question:
I´m putting the engine assembly back together after I´ve zinc-plated everything. When I put the Shake Weldment into its bearings it´s sitting pretty tight and unfortunately I can´t remember if that was also the case before I took it apart. I believe it moved quite easily so maybe the zinc-plating did something to the bearings?

Does anybody have a nice scan of the racetrack decals? My racetrack is broken in many places and I got a new one from PSPA, but I´m afraid that my decals will not survive when I tear them from my old racetrack to put them onto the new one......

The decals themselves would of course be even better but so far I wasn´t able to find a source for them.

A question re. the clear plastic that sits on top of the Skid Pad ramp (holding the exit switch): is it sitting on two or three plastic posts in your machine?

Have a look at mantisamusement.com. Their Corvette protectors are great

It actually should line up:

P1030896 (resized).JPG

The bracket looks like this, don´t know if it´s available anywhere:

P1030859 (resized).JPGP1030860 (resized).JPG

I even polished them up and they look great

P1080292 (resized).JPG

I just openend a new topic about an Engine fix: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/corvette-engine-fixed#post-3556907

Just in case somebody needs it......

the rightmost one is used to hold the bumper switches and also for the slam tilt that sits left of the cashbox.
The leftmost piece I don´t remember from my recent restore.
The lower middle also looks like it´s from the slam tilt.
The top one is the holder for the playfield support arm.

The leftmost is from the lockbar receiver. I can post pics tomorrow if needed

I just finished restoring my Corvette and I have a question: is it normal that the pin does a LT-5 Initialization and a Racetrack test at every startup of the machine?

Thanks.

Another question: in Race Today mode sometimes the red car just stops at about a third of the way and doesn´t move any further. Makes it easy to win the race, but is that a known bug?

What do you mean by "does he red light"?

I haven´t figured out yet, what the Christmas lights actually mean.....

Hi Rensh,
I just troubleshooted mine so I might be able to help if necessary.
Herbert

I have that problem, too, but only very rarely. I also have the ball getting stuck under the front gate every once in a while so I have to give the pin a solid nudge until the ball falls into the lock. I think that front gate needs to be perfectly adjusted so that it can shut off the way back as quickly as possible. I´ll probably have to play with it a little more until it´s perfect.
Any experience with this is highly welcome.

Hi,
I have a little problem with my engine. When lock is enabled and I shoot a ball into the engine quite often it seems that the ball sneaks under the front gate before it can close and falls straight into the lock. This also happens on the third ball so that I don´t get a chance to rev the engine because the ball´s already gone. The engine works fine and the gates work fine in self test but it seems to me that they need a little more fine tuning.
Anybody any hints what I could try?
Herbert

I noticed the same and removed that post. I couldn’t make any sense of it anyway.

1. Maybe it´s just a little adjustment of the switch? You can loosen the screws on the bracket and turn the switch so that it makes contact a little earlier. Otherwise just get a new "naked" switch and attach the old wireform to it.

2. It could be the EOS switch on that flipper coil that´s not opening when the flipper is activated. Check if that switch opens when the flipper bat is fully extended.

It´s very hard to repair these boards outside of the machine because you need the input from the CPU and the response from the hall sensor in the engine for the boards to do anything. There´s a few helpful links to get you started but you will need to either remove the engine from the machine or do all your tests inside the pin. If you decide to remove the engine you´ll have to simulate the signals from the CPU, which is perfectly doable depending on your electronics skills.

If you explain a little better what you mean by "acting wacky" I might be able to come up with a few hints where to start, because I recently repaired mine and still know how it should be working.

Here are the links to get you an idea of the workings of the engine:
http://passionforpinball.com/lt5adjust.htm
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Corvette

The voltages you´re measuring from the Hall sensor are in the range where they should be, so that´s good.
I´d start with the coils. The DISABLE signal is 5V coming from the master board on pins 18+20 of the ribbon cable. It´s actually generated on pin2 of the LS374 (U2), then inverted on U4 (ULN2803) and then passed on to the slave board. For the coils to become active the LS374 must send out a HIGH.
The ribbon cable is a good first stab. After that I´d look at Q1 and Q2 on the slave board. They should pull Q3 and Q4 low to disable the coils.

No, unfortunately I never got around to do it in English. Parts of it are documented in a German pinball forum (in German).

I sent you a pm with the link.
The behaviour could be caused by the old ribbon cable, because the inputs for the DA converter are coming that way. Maybe one bit is missing or something.....
Another thing you should check is whether the coils in the assembly are wired correctly. It should look like this:
P1070754 (resized).JPG

May I turn you Corvette experts' attention to a little issue I have which is described in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/corvette-zr1-low-rev-gate-closes-delayed#post-4549896

Just an info for other Corvette owners who have the problem that the engine doesn´t always catch the ball before it drops into the lock. Make sure that your game code is on v2 or v2.1 (downloadable from the PPS website). The delay between the lower opto on the LT5 ramp and the lower rev gate was too long in v1 of the code. It was cut in half in v2 of the software and now the gate catches the ball in >90% on my machine. Some shots are still too fast but that is probably because I have a clearcoated repro playfield in my Corvette.

P1030816 (resized).JPGP1030876 (resized).JPG

does this help?

Mantis Amusements sells great ramp protectors for Corvette

The metal part goes here to the end of the racetrack:
P1060775 (resized).JPG

One of the triangular plastics goes here:
P1050272 (resized).JPG

no, there´s no default guard at the skid pad ramp

Recently somebody approached me re. the big metal piece in the Corvette backbox that resembles the outline of the US. The piece was missing from his machine, probably because a previous owner threw it out to avoid more damage to the translite. Anyway, he asked me if he could reproduce that piece on a 3D printer. So I did a scan of the piece and developed a 3D model of it, which is ready to be printed on a 3D printer.

In case somebody else has use for it just pm me with your email address and I can send you the model.

Corvette Backbox Metal Part (resized).JPG

maybe the init failure turned the engine off in the settings? There is a setting in the options to turn off a malfunctioning engine so you can keep playing.

when you hit the flippers fast enough you can get to appr. 50 million

Then either your engine doesn't move fast enough, the rubbers in the engine are worn out or maybe your machine is set at a too steep angle. A video might help to understand your issue better.

No, unfortunately not. How far it moves to the left and the right is determined by a hall sensor and a little metal bracket on the engine assembly. You have to remove the complete assembly from the machine to get to it. When you run the Engine Test (T16) you'll get two numbers which kind of represent the difference between "leans fully to the left" and "leans fully to the right". There needs to be a certain minimum diff between those numbers otherwise the test fails completely.
There is more information about how the assembly works on pinwiki and on a page by Cliffy which is referencered there.
Normally it is no problem at all to keep the ball in the enigne. The shaking motion actually moves the ball "up" to the back of it instead of letting it fall out at the bottom.

these any help?

P1070749 (resized).JPG

P1070750 (resized).JPG

P1070757 (resized).JPG