(Topic ID: 110634)

Corvette Club (members only but passengers allowed)


By Whysnow

4 years ago



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  • 340 posts
  • 80 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by allsportdvd
  • Topic is favorited by 32 Pinsiders

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There are 340 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 7.
#251 1 year ago

Looking for bracket 01-13175 if anyone happens to have one laying around...

LT5Bracket (resized).jpg

#252 1 year ago
Quoted from mjwilliams:

The only source available when mine was fried a couple months ago:
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a-18951.html

Thanks. Anyone specialize in repairing these game-specific boards?

#253 1 year ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Thanks. Anyone specialize in repairing these game-specific boards?

It´s very hard to repair these boards outside of the machine because you need the input from the CPU and the response from the hall sensor in the engine for the boards to do anything. There´s a few helpful links to get you started but you will need to either remove the engine from the machine or do all your tests inside the pin. If you decide to remove the engine you´ll have to simulate the signals from the CPU, which is perfectly doable depending on your electronics skills.

If you explain a little better what you mean by "acting wacky" I might be able to come up with a few hints where to start, because I recently repaired mine and still know how it should be working.

Here are the links to get you an idea of the workings of the engine:
http://passionforpinball.com/lt5adjust.htm
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Corvette

#254 1 year ago

I have the motor turned off and tied down so it stays in place. During the multiball start it lets you wail away on the flippers and I don’t like that for a location game. What’s the best way to have it skip that? The motor is disabled in settings. When the motor wasn’t working it skipped this part of multiball, but apparently having it disabled does not prevent the pre-multiball flipper thing. Should I just unplug the ribbon cable so it thinks there is an issue?

#255 1 year ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

It´s very hard to repair these boards outside of the machine because you need the input from the CPU and the response from the hall sensor in the engine for the boards to do anything. There´s a few helpful links to get you started but you will need to either remove the engine from the machine or do all your tests inside the pin. If you decide to remove the engine you´ll have to simulate the signals from the CPU, which is perfectly doable depending on your electronics skills.
If you explain a little better what you mean by "acting wacky" I might be able to come up with a few hints where to start, because I recently repaired mine and still know how it should be working.
Here are the links to get you an idea of the workings of the engine:
http://passionforpinball.com/lt5adjust.htm
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Corvette

Here's what I know:

1) Motor fails self test:


2) Motor can move left and right and center itself, but it moves with a jerky/unstable motion.
3) Reading 2.4VDC to 2.6VDC from hall effect sensor (extreme left to extreme right) as measured at input on slave board.
4) Extreme left/right optos are working correctly.
5) When in attract mode, the coils on one of the sides sometimes will be energized (should always be disabled in attract mode)
6) When LT-5 is *disabled* in settings, coils still get energized (should be disabled) ... After I noticed this I unplugged the coils from the slave board to prevent them from getting burnt out (they were running extremely hot...hurt to touch and I started to smell a hot/burning plastic smell).

So at a minimum, the circuitry related to enable/disable state isn't working correctly. Perhaps this is contributing to the jerky motion. My understanding is that the master board itself handles this and actually sends the 20VDC (or is it 12VDC?) for driving the coils over the ribbon cable (but there's also a DAC on the slave board???). I.e., when disabled the master board should NOT be sending 20VDC over the ribbon cable. But perhaps I've misunderstood the documentation that's out there. I need to spend some time looking over the schematics and re-reading the doc that's out there so that I have a fuller understanding of what's going on.

I'm not necessarily measuring anything wrong with the sensors themselves, but I'm not sure what VDC range I should be reading from the hall effects sensor as measured at the header on the slave board.

As a first step I've ordered new ribbon cables (CPU -> master board and master board -> slave board) just to rule out any weird issues there. The master -> slave board ribbon cable was badly pinched at one time.

#256 1 year ago
Quoted from Sammy31:

Hey how come Corvette is down to 115 in the pinside ratings?
A game with this much flow and speed is not in the top 100 and is below Mousing Around, Firepower and Sorcerer?
C'mon Corvette players if you haven't rated this game yet get on it!

This game is a lot better than people give it credit. It's actually hard unlike a lot of 90's games, has really good flow, probably the only weak spot is the sound..the music is kind of meh.

#257 1 year ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Here's what I know:
1) Motor fails self test: » YouTube video
2) Motor can move left and right and center itself, but it moves with a jerky/unstable motion.
3) Reading 2.4VDC to 2.6VDC from hall effect sensor (extreme left to extreme right) as measured at input on slave board.
4) Extreme left/right optos are working correctly.
5) When in attract mode, the coils on one of the sides sometimes will be energized (should always be disabled in attract mode)
6) When LT-5 is *disabled* in settings, coils still get energized (should be disabled) ... After I noticed this I unplugged the coils from the slave board to prevent them from getting burnt out (they were running extremely hot...hurt to touch and I started to smell a hot/burning plastic smell).
So at a minimum, the circuitry related to enable/disable state isn't working correctly. Perhaps this is contributing to the jerky motion. My understanding is that the master board itself handles this and actually sends the 20VDC (or is it 12VDC?) for driving the coils over the ribbon cable (but there's also a DAC on the slave board???). I.e., when disabled the master board should NOT be sending 20VDC over the ribbon cable. But perhaps I've misunderstood the documentation that's out there. I need to spend some time looking over the schematics and re-reading the doc that's out there so that I have a fuller understanding of what's going on.
I'm not necessarily measuring anything wrong with the sensors themselves, but I'm not sure what VDC range I should be reading from the hall effects sensor as measured at the header on the slave board.
As a first step I've ordered new ribbon cables (CPU -> master board and master board -> slave board) just to rule out any weird issues there. The master -> slave board ribbon cable was badly pinched at one time.

The voltages you´re measuring from the Hall sensor are in the range where they should be, so that´s good.
I´d start with the coils. The DISABLE signal is 5V coming from the master board on pins 18+20 of the ribbon cable. It´s actually generated on pin2 of the LS374 (U2), then inverted on U4 (ULN2803) and then passed on to the slave board. For the coils to become active the LS374 must send out a HIGH.
The ribbon cable is a good first stab. After that I´d look at Q1 and Q2 on the slave board. They should pull Q3 and Q4 low to disable the coils.

#258 1 year ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

The voltages you´re measuring from the Hall sensor are in the range where they should be, so that´s good.
I´d start with the coils. The DISABLE signal is 5V coming from the master board on pins 18+20 of the ribbon cable. It´s actually generated on pin2 of the LS374 (U2), then inverted on U4 (ULN2803) and then passed on to the slave board. For the coils to become active the LS374 must send out a HIGH.
The ribbon cable is a good first stab. After that I´d look at Q1 and Q2 on the slave board. They should pull Q3 and Q4 low to disable the coils.

Thanks for the insights/clarifications. The new ribbon cables are coming in today, so I should be able to drill in some more this weekend.

P.S. That's great detail you have there and well beyond what I've read elsewhere so far. Is this written down/formally documented anywhere?

#259 1 year ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Thanks for the insights/clarifications. The new ribbon cables are coming in today, so I should be able to drill in some more this weekend.
P.S. That's great detail you have there and well beyond what I've read elsewhere so far. Is this written down/formally documented anywhere?

No, unfortunately I never got around to do it in English. Parts of it are documented in a German pinball forum (in German).

#260 1 year ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Thanks for the insights/clarifications. The new ribbon cables are coming in today, so I should be able to drill in some more this weekend.
P.S. That's great detail you have there and well beyond what I've read elsewhere so far. Is this written down/formally documented anywhere?

Ribbon cables came in. I accidentally ordered the wrong length ribbon cable for the CPU -> master connection, so I was only able to replace the master -> slave board ribbon cable.

The motor now will randomly pass self tests in a "sloppy" manner. Basically it gets wobbly/shaky as it rotates clockwise past the 90 degree position. I didn't get a chance to debug further yet.

#261 1 year ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

No, unfortunately I never got around to do it in English. Parts of it are documented in a German pinball forum (in German).

Could you share the link? Perhaps I can use Google translate to glean some useful information.

#262 1 year ago

Non LT-5 question: I'm finding the skid pad ramp (ramp shot from upper flipper) hard to hit. E.g., if the ball is served up from the LT-5 lock or kickback, it only makes it all the way up the ramp maybe 1 out of 10 times (and even then it *barely* makes it). If, however, I hit the inner loop or right orbit solid and hit the ramp then I make it more like 7/10 times. (This is if my shot is solid on the ramp.)

I did a full flipper rebuild, even replacing the coil as the old one was bad, so the mechanically the flipper is solid. I did notice, however, that the flipper was using a red sleeve coil...

...Is red the correct coil for the upper flipper, or should it be blue?

Note 1: One other variable is that the right side of the ramp is sightly deformed (apparently melted by bulb in the past). I found a pinsider that has a spare ramp, so I can try eliminate that as a potential cause once installed. It doesn't seem like the deformation should impact the ball motion *that* much, but maybe the engineered design is that the flipper has just barely enough power to make the ramp when the ramp is perfect.

Note 2: I've noticed a good half of the time, balls served up by the LT-5 lock or kickback tend to bounce around a bit, and not cleanly roll over the flipper, so that may be impacting power, too. Anyone have a fix/mitigation for that?

#263 1 year ago

Play a game or two and then see if the upper flipper coil is hot. If it is, clean the opto board on the left side.

#264 1 year ago
Quoted from Sammy31:

Hey how come Corvette is down to 115 in the pinside ratings?
A game with this much flow and speed is not in the top 100 and is below Mousing Around, Firepower and Sorcerer?
C'mon Corvette players if you haven't rated this game yet get on it!

I own a Firepower and a Sorcerer too. I haven’t played Mousing enough to say, but it’s real hard to rate them side by side they all have their charms.

The ratings here are worthless anyway.

#265 1 year ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Ribbon cables came in. I accidentally ordered the wrong length ribbon cable for the CPU -> master connection, so I was only able to replace the master -> slave board ribbon cable.
The motor now will randomly pass self tests in a "sloppy" manner. Basically it gets wobbly/shaky as it rotates clockwise past the 90 degree position. I didn't get a chance to debug further yet.

I sent you a pm with the link.
The behaviour could be caused by the old ribbon cable, because the inputs for the DA converter are coming that way. Maybe one bit is missing or something.....
Another thing you should check is whether the coils in the assembly are wired correctly. It should look like this:
P1070754 (resized).JPG

#266 1 year ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

I sent you a pm with the link.
The behaviour could be caused by the old ribbon cable, because the inputs for the DA converter are coming that way. Maybe one bit is missing or something.....
Another thing you should check is whether the coils in the assembly are wired correctly. It should look like this:

Thanks for the link!

Good call on the coil wiring. I see on the bottom of mine that someone wrote in with sharpie at one time to label coil locations...So it's possible someone had it pulled apart to that degree and messed up when putting it back together.

1 month later
#267 1 year ago

Hi guys! I picked up a nice Corvette a few weeks ago, came with LEDs installed, noticed on the skill shot, that the 3 green rollover lights flash erratically back and forth. I have read in other threads that other owners have had this same issue with Corvette. Putting dim incandesant bulbs back in fixes it, but they are harder to see. Does anyone have a solution? Thanks!!

3 weeks later
#268 1 year ago
Quoted from Tinnhound:

Hi guys! I picked up a nice Corvette a few weeks ago, came with LEDs installed, noticed on the skill shot, that the 3 green rollover lights flash erratically back and forth. I have read in other threads that other owners have had this same issue with Corvette. Putting dim incandesant bulbs back in fixes it, but they are harder to see. Does anyone have a solution? Thanks!!

I have Comet LEDs in mine and I do not have that issue. These are the ones I use:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

#269 1 year ago
Quoted from Brijam:

I have Comet LEDs in mine and I do not have that issue. These are the ones I use:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

Those are the ones I use in everything I swap to LED. The plan is for everything to be done eventually, but I can't do them all at once. My Corvette came with Cointakers and blink at the skill shot as well. I might swap just those to Comets since everything else is fine. I'm willing to bet that the Cointakers are older and suspect newer stuff from them wouldn't act this way. I don't know for certain though.

#270 1 year ago
Quoted from Brijam:

I have Comet LEDs in mine and I do not have that issue. These are the ones I use:
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

Thank you for your response, I will have to give those a try!

1 week later
#271 1 year ago
Quoted from Tinnhound:

Hi guys! I picked up a nice Corvette a few weeks ago, came with LEDs installed, noticed on the skill shot, that the 3 green rollover lights flash erratically back and forth. I have read in other threads that other owners have had this same issue with Corvette. Putting dim incandesant bulbs back in fixes it, but they are harder to see. Does anyone have a solution? Thanks!!

Did you clean underside of those inserts with alcohol and Qtips? I have regular bulbs in my rollovers and they are pretty bright.

The erratic nature of the LEDs sounds like Non-ghosting LEDs were not being used.

#272 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Did you clean underside of those inserts with alcohol and Qtips? I have regular bulbs in my rollovers and they are pretty bright.
The erratic nature of the LEDs sounds like Non-ghosting LEDs were not being used.

Yes, I did clean the underside of the inserts, I am going to have to order some non-ghosting LEDs and try that.

3 weeks later
#273 1 year ago

May I turn you Corvette experts' attention to a little issue I have which is described in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/corvette-zr1-low-rev-gate-closes-delayed#post-4549896

1 week later
#274 1 year ago

I'm still looking for a used track for my game. If anyone has a line on one let me know please.

#275 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Thanks me too. When my friend comes back from Florida in a few weeks we are going to try his track in my game and determine definitively if my track/boards are what is causing the issue. If it is I will really be on the hunt for one then

Were you able to verify your friend's rack track in your game? Also, did you try replacing the optos on your racetrack boards?

#276 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Were you able to verify your friend's rack track in your game? Also, did you try replacing the optos on your racetrack boards?

No not yet, been busy with summer "stuff" and haven't really been into pinball too much lately, but was thinking of seeing if he has time this weekend to come to my place. I replaced the boards before, actually bought a 2nd set and still have have the same issue.

#277 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

No not yet, been busy with summer "stuff" and haven't really been into pinball too much lately, but was thinking of seeing if he has time this weekend to come to my place. I replaced the boards before, actually bought a 2nd set and still have have the same issue.

I just recommend changing the optos and encoder part(s) on both boards. The transmitter opto likely is very dim or completely out in each opto pair.

#278 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I just recommend changing the optos and encoder part(s) on both boards. The transmitter opto likely is very dim or completely out in each opto pair.

Seems like there was something wrong with my boards or you couldn't get an opto anymore with the correct # of legs

#279 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Seems like there was something wrong with my boards or you couldn't get an opto anymore with the correct # of legs

I had no trouble getting optos and the encoder part for mine. I'll try and look them up where I got them from.

#280 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Seems like there was something wrong with my boards or you couldn't get an opto anymore with the correct # of legs

The original optos are still available. That is what I rebuilt my boards with.

1 month later
#281 1 year ago

Just an info for other Corvette owners who have the problem that the engine doesn´t always catch the ball before it drops into the lock. Make sure that your game code is on v2 or v2.1 (downloadable from the PPS website). The delay between the lower opto on the LT5 ramp and the lower rev gate was too long in v1 of the code. It was cut in half in v2 of the software and now the gate catches the ball in >90% on my machine. Some shots are still too fast but that is probably because I have a clearcoated repro playfield in my Corvette.

#282 1 year ago

Does anyone know when the 3 lights in the exhaust pipe are turned on?
They work in testmode but I never see them on during gameplay.

3 weeks later
#283 1 year ago

My design for a new custom pinball rules card:

I hope you like!

Opinions and improvement suggestions are welcome!

"Corvette Custom Pinball Cards - Rules" (BALLY). Designed by Mikonos.
http://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/Corvette%20Custom%20Pinball%20Card%20-%20Rules.%20Mikonos1.jpg

Details in "Corvette Custom Pinball Cards - Rules" (BALLY). Designed by Mikonos.
http://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/Corvette%20Custom%20Pinball%20Card%20-%20Rules.%20Mikonos2.jpg
Corvette Custom Pinball Card - Rules. Mikonos1.jpgCorvette Custom Pinball Card - Rules. Mikonos2.jpg

*I take bigger screenshots and photos, click to enlarge images (and click again on display image mode if it is necessary) for avoid blur effect of pinside´s miniatures.

Regards

1 week later
#284 1 year ago

Looking for the Left LT ramp! Good used condition would work too!

#286 1 year ago

I ordered to print my "Custom Rules Card", but I printed in a very special way, I printed it over chrome vinyl.
a6fc4c335c59d9b1a798ffb4338c84b9fee682ce.jpg

This was result:

"Corvette Custom Pinball Cards - Rules" (BALLY) printed in chrome vinyl with gloss protective lamination (photo 1).
http://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/artes/Corvette%20Custom%20Pinball%20Cards%20Rules%20print1.jpg

"Corvette Custom Pinball Cards - Rules" (BALLY) printed in chrome vinyl with gloss protective lamination (photo 2).
http://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/artes/Corvette%20Custom%20Pinball%20Cards%20Rules%20print2.jpg

Corvette Custom Pinball Cards Rules print1.JPGCorvette Custom Pinball Cards Rules print2.JPG

*I take bigger screenshots and photos, click to enlarge images (and click again on display image mode if it is necessary) for avoid blur effect of pinside´s miniatures.

You can check my original design here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/corvette-club-members-only-but-pledges-allowed/page/6#post-4648709

I hope you like!

Regards

2 weeks later
#287 1 year ago

I finished to design my "Crew" card for Corvette pinball, I think is a very elegant card:

"Corvette Custom Pinball Card - Crew" (BALLY). Designed by Mikonos.
http://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/Corvette%20Custom%20Pinball%20Card%20-%20Crew.%20Mikonos1.jpg
Corvette Custom Pinball Card - Crew. Mikonos1.jpg

Details in "Corvette Custom Pinball Card - Crew" (BALLY). Designed by Mikonos.
http://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/Corvette%20Custom%20Pinball%20Card%20-%20Crew.%20Mikonos2.jpg
Corvette Custom Pinball Card - Crew. Mikonos2.jpg

*I take bigger screenshots and photos, click to enlarge images (and click again on display image mode if it is necessary) for avoid blur effect of pinside´s miniatures.

Regards

3 weeks later
#288 11 months ago

New to the club. I noticed my right outlanes are missing some pieces. Can someone please post some closeups of the right outlanes...specifically under the rails. Thanks!

#289 11 months ago

P1030816 (resized).JPGP1030876 (resized).JPG

does this help?

#290 11 months ago

Yes that helps. Looks like I am okay...there is a post between the two extra ball rollovers that is threaded inside. I assumed there was supposed to be a rubber around that or something...not sure why it would be threaded...but mine looks the same as pictured. Thanks!

3 weeks later
#291 10 months ago

Hello folks, picking up a really nice Corvette today and am pretty excited to get into this game. The only thing I really want to add is a ramp protector on the left side of the LT5 ramp as it has cracked. Anyone knows who sells just that one?

#292 10 months ago

I have a few question on how the LT5 kick out should be functioning. When it loads the balls up for multiball, mine on a few accessions has had problems kicking them out. It’s like the post doesn’t have enough strength or is not lined up properly to eject the ball. The clearance from that kick out to the plastic muffler assembly is close but I don’t think that is the problem. Probably just need to rebuild that kick out assembly. Other question is when you start the LT5 multiball is seems to kick the balls out one by one rather slowly. Is this normal operation? I guess it’s good cause you have 3 good chances to hit the side loop and side ramp jackpots but just making sure that is how the game is suppose to be set up.

#293 10 months ago

http://www.pinballuniverse.com/PinballRamps.htm

I think the ramp protector from pinball universe is a good option.

#294 10 months ago

@ yurijos : - you can make a protector yourself from some leftover siderail or a piece of ss sheetmetal ( approx. 1mm thick)
- I had some problems with the kick out myself a few weeks ago, it all came down to proper alignment, had to try several times before it was ok again but didn't need a rebuild.

#295 10 months ago

How do you align that eject kick out? Obviously the coil and mech are mounted to a bracket so just tweak that bracket? There’s not much clearance between that eject and the muffler assembly so it should kick out the ball more to the side instead of up or is my muffler assembly too low maybe? I’ll need to dig into it but it seems that eject is at a weird angle

#296 10 months ago

I tried various angles, just twisting and bending the bracket. Simple trial & error, no science
It is a weird angle, the ball has to go to the side while it is pushed down by the other balls.
I had the problem one more time after the last post so maybe I will need to rebuild it afterall.

#297 10 months ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Hello folks, picking up a really nice Corvette today and am pretty excited to get into this game. The only thing I really want to add is a ramp protector on the left side of the LT5 ramp as it has cracked. Anyone knows who sells just that one?

Mantis Amusements sells great ramp protectors for Corvette

#298 10 months ago

Still having issues with the LT5 kick out but only seems to get stuck when all three balls are locked and starting multiball. I tried angling the bracket a bit more so it’s kicks the ball more to the side instead of up and hitting the muffler plastic assembly, didn’t really help. Once the first ball gets free the others have no problem tho. If there is only one or two balls in the lock lane the kick out works but three balls and it jams up?

#299 10 months ago

^^^^Anybody? Also wondering if there is a way to tighten or snug the lock bar assembly down when in the locked position as mine seems a little loose to the left and right. Thanks.

#300 10 months ago

Anyone have a used or new left or right ramp for sale? Would prefer one with the decals and ramp flap already attached. My left ramp is in terrible shape in particular!

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