I recently picked up a Corvette. It has the original wires on the driver side of the motor. I bought a set of after market wires, and now see why they were removed on the passenger side. As you know the after market wires are harder plastic type, not rubber like the original. How many of you guys just remove the wires all together? I do not like the idea of having one set of wires. What about making custom wires? Thoughts?

I have the aftermarket ones in mine, as you said, they are very hard to move around. I am thinking of using some EL wire for them and have them power up when the engine is shaking.

The replacement I ordered from Bay looked awful, so i made my own with EL wire.

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What is EL wire?

It is basically light up wire, they have different colors. Powered by 12 volt. There is also EL paper that I have used behind pinball armor, to light up the artwork. Here is a link to an example of the wire.

https://www.adafruit.com/product/408

Thanks! My Corvette project finally getting finished. Still need to make wires for the engine and adjust ZR-ramp to feed upper flipper smooth.

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That looks great!
I added 7 hot wheels each representing one of the 7 generations of Corvettes C1 - C7. (The 7th is on the back wall ramp)

Dennis

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How did you attach them? Glue?

Hi,
I have a little problem with my engine. When lock is enabled and I shoot a ball into the engine quite often it seems that the ball sneaks under the front gate before it can close and falls straight into the lock. This also happens on the third ball so that I don´t get a chance to rev the engine because the ball´s already gone. The engine works fine and the gates work fine in self test but it seems to me that they need a little more fine tuning.
Anybody any hints what I could try?
Herbert

I used double sided foam tape. I had to double up mine to get the right thickness. The tape can always be removed.
The trick was finding all 7 generations of hot wheels.

C1 1953 - 1962
C2 1963 - 1967
C3 1968 - 1982
C4 1984 - 1996
C5 1997 - 2004
C6 2005 - 2013
C7 2014 - today

Dennis

I still collect hot wheels and i am sure i have them. But i am partial to the c2. Have one in dads garage. Thought about swapping out the drag cars with hot wheels. What are your thoughts on that?

If you look at that gate close. I noticed on mine that the wire form that flips the gate was hitting the post and restricted it. But i think the destruction was for the open motion. But something to look at

I noticed the same and removed that post. I couldn’t make any sense of it anyway.

I thought about replacing them too with hot wheels. Decided it wasn't worth the effort when I did the under track lighting.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/corvette-drag-strip-under-lighting

You might also be interested in:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sound-controlled-speaker-led-lights

BTW, I have a C7 in my garage.....

Dennis

Would one of you guys take a look at the chip in U20 and tell me what part number is on the chip? According to what I’ve read, the chip should be a ULN2803. When I looked at my chip, it has NTE2018 on it. I have been having trouble with my switch matrix; I get a ground short row 1 error on boot up. I thought I had it narrowed down to the IC and was going to replace it. I ordered a a ULN 2803 IC and popped in it. When I turned the machine back on, the pin wouldn’t boot. I pulled the replacement chip and put the one causing problems in and it booted fine (with the same error). So I was hoping that one of you would check your U20 chip and let me know what it has for writing on it. TIA

They are both good to use. ULN2803 is the original part and NTE2018 is a new compatible replacement part.
NTE Cross Reference - Microsoft Internet Explorer provided by Sercel, Inc (resized).png

What repair work did you do before this error came up? Did you change any bulbs with power on? With a new ULN2803, sounds like you may have a different issue.

Research any WPC with ground row short will help find the issue. This is not game specific related. If you replaced any parts on the MPU, a broken trace would be suspect.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ground-short-row-1-wpc

Thank you. I couldn't get NTE's site to cooperate with my phone. I've been chasing down a ground short row 1 error and i thought I had it isolated all the way back to the IC. However I just found another connector that I thought I had disconnected (white/brown wire into the engine). It's a short somewhere under the playfield, in the racetrack and possibly in the engine (no idea how I got so many at once, sheesh!). Thank's again for the NTE info

Newbie here so please excuse any errors. After much deliberation (dreaming) acquired the actual Car a decade ago, and the Corvette pinball game less than a year ago. So #1; what must I do to become a card carrying member of this Pinside Corvette club? And #2; I added a LED complete light kit mod to my game recently and in the process must have over used my test button panel because now everything in the game works except the buttons. Not an immediate problem since my settings are where I want them, but would like the ability to change them in the future. The actual mechanical buttons pass the continuity test when pressed so I figure I blew a component in the circuit board that the control buttons connect to. Anyone have experience with this problem, before I try to break the code of schematics in the manual?

I think owing the game safely puts you in the club

As for your test buttons, are you certain that a connector didn't come loose? Check the backbox too.

Thanks Brijam, it is an honor then. As far as the control panel buttons, I checked all the connections from the control panel to the coin door board and cleaned all the contact pins with alcohol. Nothing. I then removed the 2 connection clips I had added to the backboard to power the new LED light strips and replaced the original connections and no change. The control panel died mid-use as I was trouble shooting the engine for which I did unintentionally reverse a connection when adding the light strip connector. I must have pushed those test panel buttons close to 100x during that process which included turning the adjustment screw under the engine ramp. The engine works fine now but the control test panel unfortunately does not, and the drawings in the owner's manual offer little help.

very odd that all 3 buttons would quit working, something isn't right.

Sounds like you may have blown a transistor when you reversed the connector. Been there, done that I'm afraid.

I would agree with you Brijam on the blown transistor, except that whatever I did with that particular clip (J118) merely left the lone wire in that clip unattached to any pin what so ever, resulting in the engine no longer shaking. (I was following the instructions from the light bulb vendor, but previous owners or techs may have altered the original wiring for that clip-IDK). This disconnect of that wire/static LT-5 engine, had me repeatedly using the test buttons which eventually simply stopped working without my touching or changing any wire connections. Having no way of running tests any longer, I merely retraced my steps, reattached that clip with its lone wire to its original pin which restored the engine shaking again. I then used a different source of power for the LED light strip. So the game works great now, however I am left with control panel buttons that no longer function. It is not cause for immediate concern as I mentioned before, until the day comes when I want to change the settings, or the double AA batteries die and I am left with the original default settings and no way of changing them. As far as I know, I indeed may have blown a transistor from the repeated overuse of the control buttons or something else (the fuses check out OK). However determining which transistor or circuit board exactly, is somewhat beyond my current knowledge base, but I am naturally always willing to learn. I truly appreciate everyone's input and willingness to help. Seems to be a common trait with Corvette owners, whether it be the American sports car or the pin. Thank you.

Check J205 - is it loose or are there burned contacts?

There could be any number of issues though, here is a very thorough discussion on what to look for:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Direct_Switch_Problems

You should do something about your on-board batteries. Preferably upgrade to NVRAM or at a minimum locate the batteries off the board.

Thanks for the pinwiki link Brijam. I had no idea a site was available with such specific information, images and "How to's" regarding repairing my game. I need to read it over a couple more times to digest it all and then perform the tests when the logic probe I just ordered arrives. I did not see any burns or alkaline damage when I removed the connector J205. I also realize from previous reading that I need upgrade to NVRAM to lose the batteries, but will wait until I resolve the issue with the switches. I will post the results of the test when complete. Thanks a million.

Followed the steps in pinwiki for troubleshooting the direct switches and the MPU turned out not to be the problem TG. Using a jump wire on the J205 pins to bypass the switches, I was able to activate the test functions. The next test proved the mechanical switches checked out OK, but the ground wire to them failed the continuity test with the machine ground. I traced the ground wires back to the coin box CPU board but found no breaks. However in doing so I did find a separate ground wire broke its solder joint on one of the coin slot mechanisms. Once I re-soldered that wire, the switches began to work once again. Hmmm, didn't think that wire would complete the ground circuit for the switches, but wuddaIknow? Thanks for your support Brijam. I'm back on the road again!

I have been chasing a problem with my corvette racetrack off and on for a long time now. I am kind of thinking it's the boards in the racetrack. I have tried the replacement boards, but no luck. I would prefer to buy just the boards, but if someone doesn't want to separate from the track I might be interested in buying the whole racetrack assembly.

Let me know what you have please.

Whats a good to great condition of corvette running these days?

I got mine for $1000. Only needed a pop bumper and some lights. Replaced the rubbers some plugs and a nice clean and wax and bam.

you got a smokin' deal, not the norm at all. I would say market price on this game for a pretty nice one is $2750-$3500. I generally look through current and previously posted ads here on pinside to get an idea of what they go for.

What year was that?

3k sounds about right, plus or minus $500

I joined the club recently. I traded straight up for a Mario I'd had for a while. I think we are both pretty happy.

There are a few switches out, and a few other things I will have to correct. I doubt the previous owner was aware of anything and I'm not very concerned. Might as well bounce a few questions off though.

1. My kickback switch isn't working. It wasn't working when I got the game, but clicked and registered when I pushed it below the level the ball would be able to. I saw that the tab the wire is welded to was bent, so I straightened it. That worked for a day and then the next day it stopped working again. It's a different geometry and part number from the other rollovers, and Marcos doesn't seem to carry them. Any ideas there?

2. My upper ramp is makeable, but it's pretty rare. After playing yesterday I popped up the playfield and noticed that the coils were all the same (blue) and that the main flippers were hardly warm after a few games, but the upper coil was a little toasty. Not hot, but not exactly comfortable to touch. They all ohm'd out the same, but the upper one does seem to have something odd going on. Any help there would be appreciated.

Those are the two major things. Mine is a re-import from Germany, so I'll have to get 3 mechs to replace the DM mechs that are in there now. That, switches, and seeing if the upper flipper is ok are all that it should need before it can go out on location. My players have been asking about it since they found out I got it. It's a very fun game and even without the kickback working I knocked off the old GC in a day of ownership.

1. Maybe it´s just a little adjustment of the switch? You can loosen the screws on the bracket and turn the switch so that it makes contact a little earlier. Otherwise just get a new "naked" switch and attach the old wireform to it.

2. It could be the EOS switch on that flipper coil that´s not opening when the flipper is activated. Check if that switch opens when the flipper bat is fully extended.

I had the same issue. I lowered both of my flipper bats and now it hits the ramps shot like a champ. I can even hit both left/right orbit shots much easier as well.

The ramp from the upper flipper is the tough one. But I do need to align my flippers still since one of them is off enough to be annoying when you look at them. I make the rest of the shots just fine though.

Highest % troublemaker looks like a dirty opto. There are two optos per button from what I remember, so maybe one per flipper? I'm guessing the one for the upper flipper is dirty and causing a rapid off/on that is heating up the coil and making it weak. Cleaning that right when I get home today.

Oh, when you said upper ramp, I thought you were meaning the Route 66 ramp. So you really mean the Skid Pad ramp then?

Yes, clean them. If the flipper is getting weak, most likely the coil is getting hot. If you still have trouble, swap the flipper optos boards between the left/right sides. Check the EOS switch as well with an ohmmeter.

I just bought it last fall. Half the fun is going through it to make sure all is right.

My lock kickout seems to be hitting the decorative side side exhaust cover. Sometimes it takes 6+ pops before it will come out of the lock. Any thoughts on what I can do do make it more reliable?

Astonishing deal. How did you find it?

I totally agree, it's almost as much fun to restore and fix them as it is to play them.

Looks like i am joining the club!
Not sure if it has been mentioned but does anyone know where to get the backbox decals?

I'm still on the hunt for a racetrack or a good set of original boards. Let me know if you have them for sale or know of someone that might.

Not much action going on in this thread. Hope you find what you are looking for.

Found my backbox decals.

I had the same.problem.
I placed a thick washer under the screw that holds the plastic muffler down. It raised it just enough that the balls are kicking out nicely now.

Does anyone have the motor turned on? Mine was giving me issues, so it shut itself down. Playing the game without it shaking isn't the end of the world. If I could turn off the pre-multiball shaking button mash aspect, I'd leave the motor on, but not having to hear that has been pretty nice. It's going on route soon and I think I'm going to leave the motor off and ziptie the motor so it's level. It was tilted hard to one side for a while and I was getting ramp rejects from it.

I am looking for a corvette pinball if anyone knows of one for sale.

Hey how come Corvette is down to 115 in the pinside ratings?
A game with this much flow and speed is not in the top 100 and is below Mousing Around, Firepower and Sorcerer?
C'mon Corvette players if you haven't rated this game yet get on it!

Anyone have a source for working LT-5 slave boards and/or sensor boards inside of the motor?

My LT-5 is acting wacky and it would be nice to have a known working set to compare against and narrow down the problem.

The only source available when mine was fried a couple months ago:

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a-18951.html