(Topic ID: 246484)

Correct EOS Open/Close for Williams Pins


By wolfemaaan

11 months ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 months ago by wolfemaaan
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Flipper_EOS (resized).JPG

#1 11 months ago

Ok, noob question here. I noticed I have issues with my Indiana Jones Williams flippers holding power and I found this diagram. Is the EOS Open/Close correct? Meaning closed is when the flipper is idle/high power and open is low power/flipper active

My machine has just the opposite (EOS switch is open when flipper is idle and Closed when active)

Thanks!

Flipper_EOS (resized).JPG
#2 11 months ago

Your game uses a more advanced electronic "Fliptronics" flipper system, the diagram you posted is an earlier conventional flipper system. The EOS in the older system is actually used to direct which part of a coil system gets current at a given part of the stroke (power or hold). The EOS is not used in this manner for a Fliptronics system. The EOS sensing circuit is used to report information on the status of the switch closure to the MPU.

Examine the connectors to the Fliptronics board. Look for burned or damaged connections and poor solder on the header pins on the board. The power to each flipper is daisy chained. Look for strands of wire broken. The power then comes back into the Fliptronics board at J902, another potential problem.

#3 11 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Your game uses a more advanced electronic "Fliptronics" flipper system, the diagram you posted is an earlier conventional flipper system. The EOS in the older system is actually used to direct which part of a coil system gets current at a given part of the stroke (power or hold). The EOS is not used in this manner for a Fliptronics system. The EOS sensing circuit is used to report information on the status of the switch closure to the MPU.
Examine the connectors to the Fliptronics board. Look for burned or damaged connections and poor solder on the header pins on the board. The power to each flipper is daisy chained. Look for strands of wire broken. The power then comes back into the Fliptronics board at J902, another potential problem.

Thanks. Yeah im walking the wires down and connecting/reconnecting. Seems like from a cold boot, they work fine. But after a couple minutes they get "springy" and do not hold/flop when a ball hits the flippers when activated

Thanks again!

#4 11 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Thanks. Yeah im walking the wires down and connecting/reconnecting. Seems like from a cold boot, they work fine. But after a couple minutes they get "springy" and do not hold/flop when a ball hits the flippers when activated
Thanks again!

I.would recommend repinning the connectors first. Both male header pins and female wire harness connectors, a full replacement. Unplugging and replugging does nothing but use up cycle life of the connectors. There is no other reliable way to determine board failure unless this is done first.

#5 10 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Your game uses a more advanced electronic "Fliptronics" flipper system, the diagram you posted is an earlier conventional flipper system. The EOS in the older system is actually used to direct which part of a coil system gets current at a given part of the stroke (power or hold). The EOS is not used in this manner for a Fliptronics system. The EOS sensing circuit is used to report information on the status of the switch closure to the MPU.

There is one import piece of information missing from this, the last sentence should read...The EOS sensing circuit is used to report information on the status of the switch closure to the MPU, which then provides full power to the coil (via the fliptronics board) to maintain flipper position when the flipper button has not been released.

I think what you are seeing is a gradual weakening of the hold portion of the flipper coil due to a natural heating of the coil when energized, and a failure of EOS switch functionality. A properly aligned EOS switch should open right at the flippers end of stroke; with the flipper in the full upright position, the EOS switch gap should be no wider than a business card.

Since the CPU is in control all of your flippers, both the flipper and EOS switch functionality can be checked in switch edge test to determine if they are being properly read by the CPU.

#6 10 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

There is one import piece of information missing from this, the last sentence should read...The EOS sensing circuit is used to report information on the status of the switch closure to the MPU, which then provides full power to the coil (via the fliptronics board) to maintain flipper position when the flipper button has not been released.
I think what you are seeing is a gradual weakening of the hold portion of the flipper coil due to a natural heating of the coil when energized, and a failure of EOS switch functionality. A properly aligned EOS switch should open right at the flippers end of stroke; with the flipper in the full upright position, the EOS switch gap should be no wider than a business card.
Since the CPU is in control all of your flippers, both the flipper and EOS switch functionality can be checked in switch edge test to determine if they are being properly read by the CPU.

This is helpful information and I’ll check them. Makes sense considering the coil is getting hot. Might be premature EOS causing this. I think also because when the game is cold booted, flippers seem to be good

#7 10 months ago

I adjusted it and it seemed to improve initially but then started flopping after a bit. Mostly the left flipper. I’ll road and track the voltage, etc and see if anything stands out including if it’s getting hot. If everything checks out I’ll probably get a Rottendog and send my original board out for repair/rebuild

#8 10 months ago

First clean the optos on the flipper opto boards (inside of cabinet at the flipper buttons).
If the problem stays then switch boards to the other sides and see if the problem moves along..

#9 10 months ago

Ok, I think my weak flipper issue is resolved. It was a combo of adjusting the EOS (Thanks Pin_Guy!) and mostly not gauging the flipper bat to the bushing. There was a LOT of play and who knew tightening that to the gauge tool made the world of difference. Gonna have to go back and check all my machines now

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