Ok, I have a theory on this clearcoat issue ( hold your punches), a few years ago I repaired the sanctum area on my shadow. I had read a few instructional posts and went at it, I did the repair per all expert advice, I then clearcoated with a spray can of Krylon or something similar I bought from The Home Depot...it took only about 20 plays or so for the area above the magnet to give in a bit and form a slight divot, which kept the ball from rolling into the sanctum. Another Pinsider did the same repair as me (used my instructions) but used automotive clearcoat and he didn't have any issues hundreds of plays later. So my theory is that someone is using cheap clearcoat that is not in the same league as the automotive clear such as Spray Max 2k stuff. This is just my hunch, I have no proof. I don't think the environmental reformulation has anything to do with that. I just think it's lower grade stuff.

Yes, the other post talks about thinner coats vs heavy coats which could be also be an issue but there are some posts on the automotive spray 2k thread showing them putting on a thick coat and still getting good results. This issue may very well be a multifaceted one. Where clear quality, cure time and digital printing may all be culpable.

Well, we know that Mirco made pfs without any issues before these incidents so unless he changed the program on his machine line I would say he changed the clearcoat mixture...there is a video where he says he's now using his own proprietary clearcoat formula. So I'm going with occam's razor principle on this one till we get a definitive answer.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wonka-le-sling-post-chipping-/page/32#post-5180658

I agree, the first step is to find out which part is failing...is it the paint or the clear? So far these guys are just ignoring the problem, or they replace a few bad pfs and get back to business as usual. In any case, I'm starting to lean in your direction, I think it's the digital printing that maybe the underlying issues here. We've had Stern pfs with issues, we've had JJP/Mirco pfs with the same issue, they use different clear formulation so it's logical to assume is the art paint is not adhering to the wood properly regardless of what kind of clear they spray on it.

It could also be a combination of issues, if you look at the pics the paint is coming off with the clear, which may indicate bad adhesion of paint to the wood but if the clear is pooling this could mean the clearcoat is not fully hardened yet. So it's a little confusing I know....but to address the pooling the clear needs to be reformulated or cured more. We don't know how long Mirco lets the pfs rest before shipping them out.....also how many times does he go over them. 2x or 4x? or does he do one heavy coat and one light coat....etc. Either way, he needs to investigate this and retool his process. This is something preventable and unlike dimpling we can all agree this is not normal.