(Topic ID: 126448)

Considering the Hakko FR-300--what accessories & replacement parts to get?


By ForceFlow

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by barakandl
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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    #1 3 years ago

    So, I've had a the Hakko desoldering gun on my buy list for a while.

    Considering I have a whole bunch of boards in my machines that need repairs and bulletproofing, and since the solder suckers I've been using have been a hindrance, I was thinking about actually pulling the trigger on a purchase.

    Are there any accessories, cleaning supplies, replacement parts, etc. that I should get along with the desoldering gun that I might need later after the gun gets some use? I'd rather not have to stop in the middle of what I'm doing to order and wait for a common part that is typically replaced in the course of normal maintenance for this tool.

    #2 3 years ago

    Get a 1.0mm tip (it probably comes with this size) and a 1.6mm tip. Consider 0.8mm and 1.3mm tips as well. Get the cleaning poker for the appropriate sizes too.

    Consider getting the cleaning drill bits for sizes you use as well. I don't have the drill bits, and can still clean out the tips effectively. Drill would make it a lot easier.

    Get a pack of extra ceramic filters. These go pretty fast and is most used consumable item for this gun. Make sure to get the big ones. There is two sizes of filters, you want the larger (thicker) ones.

    The metal filters you can clean. I use these for a long time with out replacing. Maybe skip those.

    Rubber seals around the solder waste tube need replaced after a good bit of use. The fill tube itself needs replaced after a bit of use as well, you can clean it out pretty well though.

    #3 3 years ago

    It comes with a small tip. Get a big one.

    It comes with a wire poker to clean the small tip and a screwdriver-looking reamer that handles the large tip. I've never needed a drill.

    Get a couple packs of ceramic paper filters.

    #4 3 years ago

    Get plenty of extra filters, as suggest the thicker ones. That is what goes first. I haven't gotten any additional tips for mine yet, the stock one has done a very good job at just about everything I've come across. What I can say about it is be good to it, and it will be good to you. I use mine just about nightly and have since I bought it a few months ago. Clean it out every time you use it, use the included 1.0 mm cleaning rod. The only place it may get tricky is on very small sized pads with traces running between stuff (anything past SYS 11 trace size). If you're doing mostly older boards, you may be okay with just the stock tip. I haven't damage a trace yet with this gun. I use it at 800 deg. F.

    It says it takes a few minutes to reach the right temperature, but it is more like 30 seconds.

    #5 3 years ago

    Get one of those little gold thingys that has the copper-colored mesh in it (Hakko 599B). Use it to clean your tip during while you're working. I also first go over pins to be desoldered with the wire brush on my Dremel tool in order to remove dirt and corrosion. Seems to make desoldering quicker and keeps your tip cleaner. And don't forget to put a blob of solder on the tip before you shut it off to prevent rust.

    #6 3 years ago

    Thanks for the feedback guys. Looks like I'll be pulling the trigger on this shortly. I've just about had it with desoldering pumps.

    #7 3 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Thanks for the feedback guys. Looks like I'll be pulling the trigger on this shortly. I've just about had it with desoldering pumps.

    You'll kick yourself for not doing it earlier. It is a huge board trace & time saver. You can kinda get away with a crappy soldering iron. You can't with desoldering.

    #8 3 years ago

    Does the kit with extra nozzles also come with the matching cleaning pins for those extra nozzles?

    #10 3 years ago

    Added to my Christmas list^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

    #11 3 years ago

    So, it arrived today and I gave it a try. Honestly, my expectations were pretty low after being frustrated with the desoldering pumps, so I wasn't sure what to expect with the Hakko desoldering gun. I thought folks were exaggerating a little when they said it took seconds to desolder components.

    To use as a test, I had three Gottlieb boards with NiCad batteries with the 4 legs soldered to the board. Normally, it has been taking me 15-20 minutes to remove just one of these batteries from a board.

    Much to my surprise, it took 2-3 seconds to desolder each leg, and another 5-10 seconds to wiggle the battery loose. So, it took me less than 30 seconds to remove a NiCad battery when before, it was taking me 15-20 minutes with a desoldering pump.

    I am impressed. And it takes a lot to genuinely impress me.

    When I sat down at my worktable, I was expecting to be there for a solid half hour. After finishing everything up that I had planned in only a few minutes, golly gee wiz, I wasn't quite sure what to do with the time I saved.

    I don't know how this tool will hold up long-term, but so far, I'm willing to give it a thumbs up.

    #12 3 years ago

    They kick ass. Major time saver. And more importantly, cleaner board work.

    2 months later
    #13 3 years ago

    Any thoughts on the 300 vs. the 204 workstation version as to which one is better? any benefits to the workstation version?

    7 months later
    #14 3 years ago

    I have .8mm, 1.0m, and 1.3 mm tips for this gun. Any real reason to get a 1.6 mm tip?

    #15 3 years ago
    Quoted from WesleyCowan:

    I have .8mm, 1.0m, and 1.3 mm tips for this gun. Any real reason to get a 1.6 mm tip?

    I use it all the time. Mostly for .156" headers and solder tabs with wires attached.

    5 months later
    #16 2 years ago

    I am considering purchasing the Hakko FR300. But I have a few questions before I make a final decision. I am employed as an electronics tech. I desolder/solder using a Hakko iron & wick (hate it). Unfortunately, company will not invest in desoldering station. I do alot of thru-hole soldering of caps. I desolder & solder about 50 to 75 electrolytic caps daily on multi-layer boards (4-5). The ground planes are esp. a pain. My concern is can the FR300 handle that of kind of a daily workload (w/proper maintenance)? I tried an Aoyue 8800 once but had problems with the heating element and the tips would frequently scratch the traces in proximity to the caps. I prefer to survey the opinion of actual users than a seller before I make a decision. Anyway what do you think based on your experience with the FR300?

    #17 2 years ago

    I've used mine pretty regularly since I got it last year. It's held up pretty well. Granted, it only gets moderate usage--a few hours every week or two, so not anywhere near the usage levels you're anticipating.

    If an individual component fails, parts are available, so you would only have to replace a failed part, and not the whole unit.

    I clean the tip regularly with a brass sponge while I desoldering, run a cleaning rod through the tip every so often, and I haven't any serious issues with scratches on a PCB.

    It has been an incredible time saver and made desoldering a trivial task.

    #18 2 years ago
    Quoted from brandon1232:

    I am considering purchasing the Hakko FR300. But I have a few questions before I make a final decision. I am employed as an electronics tech. I desolder/solder using a Hakko iron & wick (hate it). Unfortunately, company will not invest in desoldering station. I do alot of thru-hole soldering of caps. I desolder & solder about 50 to 75 electrolytic caps daily on multi-layer boards (4-5). The ground planes are esp. a pain. My concern is can the FR300 handle that of kind of a daily workload (w/proper maintenance)? I tried an Aoyue 8800 once but had problems with the heating element and the tips would frequently scratch the traces in proximity to the caps. I prefer to survey the opinion of actual users than a seller before I make a decision. Anyway what do you think based on your experience with the FR300?

    I do PCB rework about every single day using my FR300. Usually do rework about 3-4 hours a day, sometimes 12 hour marathon sessions on the weekends. A Bally MPU has 275+ through holes at least to be desoldered when rebuilding and I sometimes get more than one done in a day. I say it holds up really well. With daily use, be prepared to rebuild the pump about once a year, maybe more (tubes, gaskets, suction cup, etc). The tips last 6 months or so with daily use. Maybe more. I sometimes drill out the smaller ones into bigger ones for some extra light use.

    Get lots of paper filters, those go fast. Get extra solder catch tubes and the prefilter (i replace the prefilter with the tube). Cleaning drill is mandatory for 1.0mm tips. You can poke clean the 1.3mm and 1.6mm tip OK without a drill.

    #19 2 years ago

    Thanks for all of the info. it seems like you use your FR300 more than I will be using it. It is good to know what I am getting into. I guess I will have to order the maintenance supplies from Hakko...esp. catch tubes, prefilter, gaskets, suction cup etc... But my employer will probably purchase them for me, depending on improved efficiency and production. Once again thanks for the info and speedy reply.

    #20 2 years ago
    Quoted from brandon1232:

    Thanks for all of the info. it seems like you use your FR300 more than I will be using it. It is good to know what I am getting into. I guess I will have to order the maintenance supplies from Hakko...esp. catch tubes, prefilter, gaskets, suction cup etc... But my employer will probably purchase them for me, depending on improved efficiency and production. Once again thanks for the info and speedy reply.

    When you buy the Gun, get a 1.6mm tip (comes with 1.0m), extra paper filters, and the 1.0mm drill +holder. Then by the maintenance items as you think you need it. That is my recommendation.

    HAKKKO USA ships supplies for free.

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