I have this LotR machine with these VUK switches that just keep dying.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=197
I am getting tired of re-soldering them. Are there connectors I can buy to making swapping them out easier?
I have this LotR machine with these VUK switches that just keep dying.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=197
I am getting tired of re-soldering them. Are there connectors I can buy to making swapping them out easier?
Quoted from TurqMage:I have this LotR machine with these VUK switches that just keep dying.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=197
I am getting tired of re-soldering them. Are there connectors I can buy to making swapping them out easier?
I am sure there are some connectors out there that will fit the lugs. Hard to see when the switch in the link doesn't show the lugs though. Take a switch to your local electronics store and see what they have. Car audio install places might have them too.
It is a standard micro switch, here is another shot..
http://www.thepinballwizard.net/images/products/elsw-0020.jpg
There are connectors for those. Take the switch to your local electronics store or car-fi install place. They should have em.
I think it is either a 0.110" fast on connector or a 0.187" commonly available at Mouser or Digikey. If you have a caliper, you can measure the lug to be sure.
I dig this. This makes perfect sense to me. Wouldn't it make a better standard to have a locking, quick-release than soldering everything? Seems to me the locking should take care of any vibration-related disconnect concerns, and the quick connect makes it easier to repair or replace when needed. Thoughts?
Quoted from Boise_D:I dig this. This makes perfect sense to me. Wouldn't it make a better standard to have a locking, quick-release than soldering everything? Seems to me the locking should take care of any vibration-related disconnect concerns, and the quick connect makes it easier to repair or replace when needed. Thoughts?
I prefer the much more solid connection of soldering myself. It is one less crimp I have to worry about possibly crimping poorly and not making a good connection when tracing down random issues. I can easily look at a solder spot and know if there is a good connection, where with a connector of some type it can look like a good connection, but in reality be shot.
For me anyways, it takes less time to solder than it does to use a connector anyways
It would take a really positive lock to keep from arcing and burning the connection, thus most solder joints in high vibration situations.
Quoted from Boise_D:I dig this. This makes perfect sense to me. Wouldn't it make a better standard to have a locking, quick-release than soldering everything? Seems to me the locking should take care of any vibration-related disconnect concerns, and the quick connect makes it easier to repair or replace when needed. Thoughts?
To my opinion, it is faster and more secure, to solder (no long searching for the crimp tool ). It might happen, that because of vibrations the connector becomes loose over time and falls off.
Quoted from o-din:I love the smell of solder in the morning!
Me too, but only lead-free solder
Quoted from Boise_D:I dig this. This makes perfect sense to me. Wouldn't it make a better standard to have a locking, quick-release than soldering everything? Seems to me the locking should take care of any vibration-related disconnect concerns, and the quick connect makes it easier to repair or replace when needed. Thoughts?
In the case of the original poster, the premature failure of the switch more than likely indicates a bad mounting condition that is allowing the ball to over actuate the micro switch and either cause the actuator to break off, or cause internal damage to the mini-micro switch. But, as I remember the older DE VUK designs, it was just a bad design and a common spot for failure.
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