you mean like this one where is is sitting in a barn? on top of another machine? with an old dart board in the background?

Congo_barn find.JPG

People own barns in IL. Why do you think it lived there? If you also think that he bought it out of a barn, why would he take the ebay photos in the same barn? Seems like a LOT to assume from that pic alone. Thought maybe you knew the guy IRL.

Also the box don't look weather damaged like it was in an old barn that long at all. I deal in vintage motos and would like to think I know a barn beater when I see one.

I do.

Then maybe ask him(?)

looking for a congo in western ny

Has anyone tried to use the AFM shaker in Congo? I know the STTNG one has been used with success. I had an AFM in my POTC that worked great. Looks like there out of stock on sttng.

Take a look here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-in-a-shaker-to-congo

Not sure on an AFM shaker, but I got this working and I think any shaker would work with the PIG2.

I have been really happy on how it turned out.

Congo mini playfield decals (set/4) 31-2531-1, 31-2531-2, 2x 31-2531-3

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-31-2531&Store_Code=PP

$29+ shipping? Ouch.

Yeah no thanks. Will print myself from the scan in this thread.

$29 for four decals, two of which you probably don't need. $30 for a replacement gorilla. Makes no sense. (But now that I said that, watch the gorilla price go up rather than the decal price come down.)

New member reporting in.

Has anyone put Gold mirror blades on a Congo? Love to see what they look like.

Yup, looks sharpimage.jpg

Nice. Got any more photos of them installed?

One more that I have on hand, I can take more later tonight image-964.jpg

Gold definitely works! Thanks.

the others looks good too

P1050410.JPG

I went with Jungle blade skins:

13922038239_e1f819f9da_b.jpg

14109077084_612aefa32e_o.jpg

14105601372_79799703a5_b.jpg

Those jungle blades would look great with gloss black cab hardware all around.

I think they mesh in well with his powered coat side rails.

Agreed, the predominant color of Congo is orange, not green. The orange rails look tight.

I just think they look better than the mirror blades. Gives a certain feel to the whole theme. Where did you get these? Looks like I will exchange mirrors for these.

I usually agree with you. But Congo=jungle=green. That being said, I don't mind the orange rails, and I think he did a really nice job with his machine.

Yup, orange, black or green all look great.

Joined the club today. Picked up a really sweet one from a fellow pinsider outside Cinncinati.

are those for jarrasic park ???

Does anybody happen to have an old coin door for a Congo or a machine that uses the same door?

I'm looking for the metal piece (I believe it may be yellow) that depresses the two white switches that controls the INTERLOCK.

Maybe you'd be willing to sell that piece to me? Thanks!

The yellow one is not part of the coin door. I have one but only one. Super useful. Good luck in your search.
Unless you maent the one that depresses them when the door is slow then you should be able to use one off of any old door. Nothing special about the door on Congo afaik.

Congo BluRay arrived from Amazon today. I just couldn't pass it up for ten bucks. I like to watch it every 3-4 years to refresh my memory of where the game's quotes come from. "Someone's not dead until they're completely dead."

I had to watch the movie to realize that Ernie Hudson is the narrator. Couldn't figure out who the older British guy was.

The hunt is on.

Ernie Hudson is the best part of this movie to me.., that and the Silver DC-3..

oops, wrong thread. I made a post about an issue the the Shadow. Back to Congo.

Hacks-a-riffic!

High power coil wire fell off the flipper coil last night. Found bad soldering everywhere, and the tab itself was cracked and half of it broke off too. Even better was the Super Scoring light though.. there was an extra long (Like 6 inches..) 18ga red wire soldered to the lamp socket by the yelllow/blue wire from the matrix. The hell?

Only found this because the things stopped working after I did all the insert LEDS. I have no idea where the heck the other end of this jumper was attached, but after removing the socket, replacing the diode, cleaning up all the GARBAGE SOLDERING done by some slop-op, stripping the wires, re-soldering and....still nothing. So I'm just like what the heck was that red wire anyways...I had cut it and left it handing while I took the socket to the table to work on it. Followed it back to the main harness, gave it a little tug, and the other end popped right out of the harness, with about an inch of exposed, never-soldered wire on it??? Was already getting pissed off at this point, but this was the last straw. Mystery jumper, socket doesn't work, no other lights have issues, and bulb from the socket is fine.

Enter oldschool troubleshooting. Looked at the lamp matrix, was gonna try continuty working back through the matrix rows and columns. Voltage at the B+ (red/color wire) was good, and continuity checked out both ways to adjacent lamps. Now, this lamp is on the bottom of the column for the yellow/blue wire. That alone with the fact no other lamps were malfunctioning should've been a dead giveaway that it was a problem with that wire. So looking at all the other lamps on the column, guess where they are? Yes, every single one of them is 555 sockets on the big lamp board in the middle except this one, which is one of like THREE standalone 44's. So this is a pretty wierd case that I've never run into in any other pin I've owned.

Here's how the wire runs: CPU board -> Loop through PCB IDC connector at the lamp board -> go all around the playfield to service this ONE light. You know, with most matrix connections, there's wires everywhere an you can just jump from lamp to lamp and check them. Not with this one. So I checked continuity from the lamp's wire back to the IDC connection pin. Nothing. Okay...there's the problem. Clearly, at this point, the jumper was to remedy this situation because it WAS working, and I did something to disconnect the jumper....but with one end unsoldered, and no other lamps standing alone for them to wrap the wire around where the hell was this thing attached!?!?

Near as I can figure...some dink soldered one end to the lamp, then took the other exposed end and stuck it UNDER A TWIST SOCKET TAB to get the signal to the other lamp and bypass the short. Okay, so there's like no way I'm going to willing reattach this massive oversized jumper because it's just lulz... out comes the cut-in-half Judge Dredd harness we scavenged from a game that was literally tossed in the dumpster without a playfield or backglass, but otherwise fully intact. Pulled out the yellow/blue wire, soldered it to my socket, and used my IDC pusher to put it in the connector with the lamp board wire. Problem FINALLY solved.

Jesus. What a ton of crap for a lamp that's barely used in the game, but there was a good reason to fix it. At least now if there's ever a problem with that lamp again, it's traceable, it's got the right bloody color wire on it, and it goes to where the connection is actually supposed to be, even if it doesn't follow the harness.

My map eject just stopped working in the middle of a game. It's solenoid #22, but I don't see what fuse this hooks up to. Any familiar with this & can lend a clue. Thanks

Was thinking about moving my congo to get a MET Pro but after looking at the details 2129 made 214 pinside owners (not sure how many are in the USA}with 204 wishers .Pinball owners data base shows 160 owners with only 27 in the USA .This pin is a tuff one to come by as not to many left and maybe not that many here in the USA left. Seems like its been going up about 500 bucks a year so maybe demand will keep strong for awhile longer.

Have you tried testing it in switch test mode?

The switch in my MAP was touchy... meaning the activator arm needed to be adjusted UP so that the ball activated it.

28 at least then in the USA...unless my serial is already registered to someone else. The guy I bought it from definitely would not have had it registered...was his only pin.

Thank christ I already have a Met.

I try it in switch mode. Thanks

The switch works fine. When the ball goes in, it's recognized, but the coil just won't fire.

Lift playfield check for broken wire at the saucer kickout coil.

Connecting to the coil I presume - I don't see a broken wire.

Picked up a Congo a couple of weeks ago. Here is what I have done so far:

1. Almost a complete top side tear down. Cleaned and waxed everything.
2. New rubber and balls.
3. Pinballs bulbs LED kit
4. Volcano mod (2 of them) from Pinball bulbs
5. Ordered and installed the right satellite targets from Australia...someone had put small round standups there.
6. Baboon Congo toy
7. Installed set of Cliffy protectors.

I still have target decals to install and I think I'm done.

image.jpg

Does the coil fire in test mode? Go into solenoid test and see if it'll fire there.

That's pretty. Of course, it looks an awful lot like mine, so I'm biased!

It does not fire in test mode.

Do any other coils not fire? Could this be a fuse?

Double check the wiring to that coil and upstream of it. Also see if that coil plunger moves freely by hand.

It's solenoid# 22. Not sure what fuse goes to, but think I'll try pulling all of them.

I'll check the wiring as well.

Couple questions.

1 - It's incredibly hard to hit the top skill shot target from a plunge on my game. Is this normal?
2 - I get a ton of bounceouts on the video mode saucer. The kickback combo is very inconsistent. Does this happen to anyone else?