This is for Gottlieb's Diamond Jack (1967), and it is such that a new game is started when a coin is dropped into the slot - although it has been modified so that the coin return button actuation closes this switch. In any case, this is 120V going to the door, which is far in excess of what I want!

So I have bought a RIB device that steps down a given voltage to 1/5, and supposedly that allows for actuation of a relay when the 24V line has a current, with a pair of normally open/closed switches. The question is then how exactly to do this so that 24V is going to the coin return button, but then when is actuated, the S (Start) relay gets actuated with its expected 120V (once this relay gets actuated, the S relay stays actuated, and other stuff gets the 120V. Obviously the cuts into the stock schematic are right off of the credit button. The colors used for the RIB is of the same set as for the stock, which makes this more complicated, but I have used different shades of color & thickness of line (a dashed line means white & color). I have also added the figure from the RIB manufacturer. I have come up with best guess and have included that (I originally had it different than this, and am almost positive that I had blown a fuse when I had first tried it).
RIB Functional Devices - 20 Amp Power Control Relays (resized).png

switch for Diamond Jack (resized).png

There us no Credit Unit; there is only the Start Unit, and it takes the 120V that goes through the coin switch. This is a '60s Add-a-Ball.

I'm BUMPING this to see if anyone has a comment as to the correctness of the wiring of this device.