Just picked up a Coney Island a few days ago. Started out with no sounds and lots of stuff not functioning. So, I went through all the boards as I do with any Williams/Bally/Stern games to see where the game is REALLY at. All the connectors were re-flowed, connector pins shined up, chips in sockets were removed for the legs to be cleaned up and reinstalled, connector pins were checked for broken/missing pins, checked for any loose/broken wires, and all boards were reinstalled. All sounds are now working. All solenoids are now working except the left kicker, which now works in solenoid test mode, but not in game mode, so I assume it is a switch issue, since there are 5 switches that don't work:

70 - coin switch 1
150 - left sling shot switch
230 - spinner switch for the pony ride
310 - drop target "I"
390 - 50k when lit switch (middle of right side)

Is there one chip or wire that is tied to all of these switches somehow? Maybe you've got some other ideas on this as well....

The MPU looks to be in good shape as you can tell the battery has been changed during it's life time and is not original or leaking, but was also removed during my procedures for obvious precautionary measures.

Also, at some point during my re-flowing or chip reinstalling, non of the feature lamps work now. Is there a single ground for all of these or somewhere specific I should look? They were all on before I went through and did the re-flowing and pin cleaning.

Other than the feature lamps going out, everything else got progressively better.

Any suggestions or information is appreciated.

Thanks!

Since I've been on a roll lately with games I thought I would revisit this gem I had sitting off to the side in my work shop and get it all wrapped up finally.

So, issues boiled down to this:

-feature lamps all out
-5 switches not working

The feature lamps not working ended up being the fuse on the power board. I had pulled the fuses to check for continuity and reinstalled them all since they checked out good. There was just some oxidation on the ends of the lamp fuse that I should have just buffed off to begin with. I pulled the fuse and buffed it off. Now we are good with feature lamps working!

The 74154 IC at U14 on the MPU controls the switch strobes, so I've got one of those on the way to replace and hopefully take care of the switch issues.

As for the lights, I installed all new lights throughout the game and all are working except 4:

- 25K w/lit is always OFF
- rollover loop light 1 is always OFF
- rollover loop light 4 is always ON
- 50K w/lit is always ON

These all have 2n5060's on the lamp driver board so I've got some of those on order to swap out as well.

I will update the repair log here on my Old Coney Island! when the parts arrive.

Any input is always appreciated. It was a great help on the Atari Superman that I just finished up with this past week.

On Old Coney Island I looked closely at the schematics tonight. All the switches that are out are on Line 6 (spinner, 25k, 50k w/lit, left slingshot). I've tested continuity from all non working switches on Line 6 back to the MPU connector and all tests out good. No shorts or issues with the yellow connector in between the play field and back box either. I swapped out the 74154 at U14 with no change prior to discovering the switches were all linked together as Line 6.

If you have a line of switches out, what is the usual culprit? I would guess either U23 or 17. Any feedback on this? Anyone else have a line of switches out?

As for the 4 feature lights that don't work properly, I replaced the 2n5060 associated with 3 of them on the lamp driver board. No change for any of the lights. I can't seem to find the 50k w/lit light anywhere on the schematics.....

All in all, nothing progressed other than learning all switches that aren't currently working are all on Line 6.

The game boots and plays every time with all flashes on the MPU, so I would assume that U17 is good..... correct?

Bumping this in hopes of some more information before I set it back up again and try to finish this one up.

Ordered some LM339's and 8255 PIO's with sockets. Hoping to knock this one out. As I see it, it looks like U17 (8255 PIO), U18 (LM339), or U23 (LM339) could be suspect. I haven't set the game back up yet, so I'll just order both chips and do some set up and testing when they arrive.

Hoping to get the switch issues knocked out with that. After that it's on to the light issues..... and other games.....

Still in the queue for repair:

Gottlieb Playball (switch/relay adjustments needed)
Williams Contact (boot up issues)
Bally X's And O's (mpu acid damage)
Williams Alien Poker (reset issues)
Williams Lucky Seven (haven't set up yet)
Data East Playboy 35th (missing mpu and ppb)
Playmatic Speak Easy (haven't set up yet)
Williams Tri Zone (mpu acid damage)
Williams Lucky Ace (minor switch/relay adjustments needed)
Gottlieb Force II (waiting YEARS AND FOREVER for a back glass. UGH!) (haven't set up yet, ground mods/pin re-flow/card edge cleaning/new big cap for sure)
Game Plan Sharp Shooter II (mpu acid damage, have new MPU, just need to jumper and install)
Williams Flash (locked on coil, driver board issue, MPU tests good in my other flash)
And a pile of about 10-15 pitch and bats, most with horizontal base runners, some with vertical base runners (haven't set up, but need lots of work)

Chips and sockets arrived today..... update to follow soon

Chips arrived today. Had a look at the schematics for the first time in over a year. Fresh eyes and new knowledge help a lot! Line 6 switches go through U23, and then U17. U18 takes care of other switch lines that are working just fine, and shouldn't be suspect.

Time to set this baby up and get to work.

Changed u23 and u17..... no change. What causes a line of switchess to be out? Then?

I'll be giving your suggestions a try tomorrow for sure! We'll see what happens. I've already tested continuity between the j5 connector and the switches on the play field previously, as well as the yellow connector from the playfield up to the back box. However, after reading your post I did notice on one of the cabinet wiring diagrams that the coin 1 switch goes through the white connector..... I should probably test continuity there as well.

Since I've replaced the transistors on the lamp driver board for the lights that are either stuck on or stuck off, I'm going to replace the associated driver chip on the lamp driver board and see if that resolves that issue as well. There are 4 lights out and I've read that if they are out in multiples of 4 lights at a time, that you should suspect the driver chip instead of the individual transistors.

Good things should be happening soon!

So, you always get 50K when lit because..... it's always lit..... lazy programing?

Just watched the TNT old coney island video on youtube and Todd mentions that specific light as well, saying that it is on the GI circuit and always had a 455 blinker bulb in place on both Old Coney Island AND Sharpshooter. Bulb crossed off the list and 455 installed.

Switch issues are all resolved!

I tried your 4 step with no change, so I went the dip switch route and turned all the dips off. The switch issue went away, so I tested all the dip switch diodes with the meter and found the diode under switch 31 was bad. Replaced the diode and we are good to go! Thanks for the great info pinballj!

Now it's down to the light issues, which have changed since I last set the game up. The 50K w/lit issue was resolved as noted above.

Here are the current light issues:

rollover loop light 1 - always off
rollover loop light 4 - always on
shoot again between flippers - always off
10K bonus light - always off
special 4x when lit on left saucer kick out - always off

Using the play field schematic and the lamp driver board schematic I traced the lights that aren't working to their corresponding "U" chips on the LDU board. They are on different chips so I'm not suspecting the "rule of 4" anymore. I'm going to check for shorts and connector issues on the connectors between the play field and back box since the light issues have changed since it was last set up.

I have verified with some alligator clips that the lamps and sockets are all good and do light up when jumped to another lit lamp.

There are sound issues present that were not the last time the game was set up as well that I'll have to document here shortly. A lot of the sounds are static sounding and not clear and some targets don't make a sound now. Some are clear (like the 50K w/lit switch). The power up jingle is clear only after the machine has been on for a bit. If it's off for a bit and then powered back on later, it's scratchy sounding. I'll get more detailed on this later.

Tested continuity from the proper lamp driver board connector pins to corresponding lights that were always out. No connection. Tested continuity at the corresponding pins in the orange and red connectors that go from the play field to the back box and there is the issue. Several pins have heavy oxidation and no continuity. Bypass the connector and the lights work as they should. Fixed all non-lighting light issues by installing a new connector and pins.

Issues left:

-rollover #4 light always on
-sound issues

As for rollover #4, I already replaced its transistor Q19 on lamp board with no change... obviously we have continuity to the light since its lit. I'm guessing its probably going to be the 4514 chip at U2 on the lamp board for that one. Chip and new rubber kit on the way.....

Haven't looked into anything sound wise yet but could suspect the volume pot as a possibility as mentioned above. Although when you adjust the volume the sound moves smoothly up and down in volume with no change in relation to the static. Maybe the caps need a change as well on the sound board.... Also thinking there could be some suspect pins in the back box connectors for bringing the sound board up to the back box and to the mpu..... in the same bunch of connectors with the bad light pins..... checking there first.

All sound issues resolved! The blue connector between the cabinet and the back box (pins 1,2,3,4 specifically) carry the sound address lines to the MPU. Heavy oxidation on all 4 pins. Re-pin with new connector and all sound issues are gone.

Final issue in this game is the rollover #4 light always being on. 4514 to replace U2 on lamp driver board is on the way.... will update when that arrives.

Finally some major progress on this one to the point where I can get some playtime in on it!

Again, thanks to everyone who's been chipping in. Definitely some excellent suggestions and things I had not thought of (like the dip switch being tied into the switch matrix.....).

Final update when the 4514 arrives?

Oh, pinballj... I've already reflown and cleaned all of the connector pins on all the circuit boards. That's all part of the first things I do when I set up the next project. Reflow/pin cleaning on all boards. I've had many times where just that step alone gets the game back to 100% working order and there are no other issues to deal with for years afterwards.

One light issue left. Will update when the chip arrives.

Changed U2 on the lamp driver board... no change. roll over #4 is still on all the time.

Put the new rubber kit on and we have great action though

Just looked at the schematics again. For the rollover loop with 5 star rollovers, there are 5 "loop" switches listed, but for lights there are only 4 "loop" lights listed. Maybe the 4th light up is on the GI light circuit like the 50K w/lit lane on the right side......

Can anyone confirm that their 4th rollover from the bottom light is always lit as well? Or that it is in fact supposed to go on and off?

Verified that the 4th roll over light in the roll over lane is in fact part of the GI lighting and should be lit all the time. There are 5 roll over switches in the "loop" as the schematics call it. 4 of the roll overs (the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 5th) are controlled by the lamp driver board and light up when certain targets are hit. The 4th light is part of the GI circuit and always on.

Project complete! On to the next one......