(Topic ID: 90219)

Common problem on System 11- lighting issue

By islandpinball

9 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by wayout440
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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System 11 (J6).JPG
#1 9 years ago

Hi guys

So I am troubleshooting a SOF. Half of the back box lighting and pretty much all of the 89 bulbs are not working.
I visually checked all fuses, all connectors and solder points. Nothing really stood out on first glance.

So then I turned off the game and pulled the fuses to test continuity. Everything checked out fine. Next I started to pull the connectors out and inspect and reseat connectors. Finally I got to J6 which from what I heard it is usually the culprit. Sure enough a couple of the pins were nice and toasty, so I pulled it out (took a picture) and then put it back.

Well to my surprise some of back box lighting came back on, still nothing from the 89 bulbs in the game though.

My next course of action will be to replace the connector.
Does anyone have a step by step process or best practice for doing this?
I want to get this game working correctly but most importantly I want to prevent any further damage that could happen if I let this linger.

Thanks
Mike

System 11 (J6).JPGSystem 11 (J6).JPG

#2 9 years ago

What's your level of soldering experience? Here's some precursory info on the IDC connectors. I replace them with Molex connectors myself, mainly because I have access to the crimp tools for those and I think the crimp connectors better than IDC. http://www.iobium.com/wpc_idc_connectors.htm

The #89 bulbs are flashers, or in other words, controlled solenoids - the power that runs them comes from elsewhere. You were messing with a general illumination connector that made your backbox GI bulbs come on. The #89s is a separate problem. Tackle learning what you need to do to fix the GI first, take one step at a time.

#3 9 years ago

89s have nothing to do with the GI connector. They are part of the solenoid circuit.

You are talking about AC relays, resistors, and transistors when it comes to this.

#4 9 years ago

Thanks guys, i will review that link and get to work.

Well anyone can solder just like anyone can drive, but I would say I solder like a 16 year old who just got his license. If I was being honest.

Yeah the 89 bulbs (flashers) I still haven't tracked down their source. I am sure I will track that down tonight.

I will keep this thread live so it may help someone with a similar issue. I do have an order in with GPE should be arrive by Tuesday.

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

89s have nothing to do with the GI connector. They are part of the solenoid circuit.

Yeah I realized that after the GI went on but not flashers. All the solenoids fire in test but No Flashers.

Here is another question , so in all lamps test should the flashers illuminate?

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from islandpinball:

Here is another question , so in all lamps test should the flashers illuminate?

No

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

What's your level of soldering experience?

Personally I probably wont solder it, though I guess it could help correct a bad crimp.

Wayout440 do you solder your the wire to pin by tinning the wire and then heating up the pin before making final connection through connector?

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from islandpinball:

so in all lamps test should the flashers illuminate?

No, and that's because flashers are NOT part of the GI fed by the 6.3VAC winding direct from the transformer (through the GI relay on the power board). Each lamp pulls 0.25A max

Flashers are just another solenoid to the board. They should flash when the respective solenoid trigger is firing in the solenoid test runs. They run at a higher voltage (7 to 13V) and pull many more amps (0.6 to 0.9) each.

If flashers are not lighting during the solenoid test, the driving transistor is probably bad, but could also be broken warming resistors, a bad relay that toggles the multiplexed solenoid drivers, bad socket, bad bulbs, bad connectors in the solenoid area.

#9 9 years ago

You don't solder wires when you crimp them. That makes them brittle.

Crimp them only.

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from islandpinball:

Personally I probably wont solder it, though I guess it could help correct a bad crimp.
Wayout440 do you solder your the wire to pin by tinning the wire and then heating up the pin before making final connection through connector?

No, I asked about soldering because you might (*you should*) replace the male header pins on the PC board. The female connector pins get crimped only, no soldering there.

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