Common Issues with Red and Ted's Road show?


By dbpbandit

3 years ago


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  • 31 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 month ago by chrisnack
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There are 56 posts in topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 3 years ago

What are some common issues with this game? Are there any parts that are hard to find or unavailable?

I appreciate any information, thanks.

#2 3 years ago

Check for fish wear at the kick out hole , the gear mech that controls ted jaw seems to,wear out . I would also make sure the eddy boards are good , make sure the shaker works . I can't really think of anything else right now but if I do I'll chime back in

#3 3 years ago

Check if both heads are working right including the eyelids (all the eyelids will close at game-end if they're working as they should).

Also check for wear around the flipper buttons & insert wear around the cities.

#4 3 years ago

Common Issues? Sometimes I cant stop playing till 4 AM!

#5 3 years ago

Parts can be fairly hard to find also, the faces are rarely around and no repro plastics made yet, but apparently ramps are being made soon by James at pinball inc, so that is a plus

#6 3 years ago

Yeah, the Eddy boards under the heads can go bad, as well as the parts to the heads. Check for insert wear around the cities as others have suggested and fish wear around the kickout. Ted, however, is nearly identical to Rudy in Funhouse if that matters. You can use Rudy parts in Ted for the most part, but I think Red is a little bit different.

#7 3 years ago

Everything's mentioned here already. As far as the eyes and mouths on Red and Ted: mechanically they're the same and parts interchange. Ted has the bulldozer mechanism.

I had some jaw issues with Red and ended up being some bad joints on the Dual H driver board which controls them which seems to have happened to others here. I opted for a new board from Spare Parts Australia.

If everything is adjusted and working right, it's a good game. I really haven't had to do much other than that board and that was soon after I got it and played the heck out of it for hours a day.

Do be aware that ramps are commonly broken and cracked and hard to find. Pinball Inc. says they will be making the ramps but haven't heard if will be clear or yellow (like original). Plastics are hard to find. Apron's usually are rusted badly which is common but can be repainted and new labels are available. Shaker motor should be checked that it's present and functional and turned on in the adjustments (If has the latest ROM's).

#8 3 years ago

Cool, lots of great information here. Thank you.

#9 3 years ago

Other than the above, the leftmost post for the blastzone gets hammered and no longer screws together with the PF right, there is a cliffy for that. As noted, the coils in the head are usually an issue. If/when you shop, take them both completely apart and reflow them all. Lots of work there, but waiting for one to go later (and one will) means you virtually have to take everything apart to get at them again, the worst being ted's head.

#10 3 years ago

Only real tech issue I've ever had with mine in nearly 18 years is the opto on the bulldozer and I've seen it on others as well. what makes it tough is it will test fine, but not function correctly in gameplay.

Cosmetically, the small white oblong inserts around the map can be problematic.

#11 3 years ago

Thanks again for the info, looks like I'm going to shop this one out. It's in pretty good shape, playfield is in really good condition, just really dirty. Red is semi working and Ted is mostly working. I'm planing on going through both of them while I have it apart. First I need to get it to start a game, currently it only starts sometimes. I think part of the problem is that there are several switches not registering but I haven't had a chance to dig into it yet. I'll pull the boards sometime this week and check everything out, I'm sure there are some poor solder joints. Also, I can see several spots where someone has soldered wires to the back of the board because of burnt connectors. Is there any good documentation available for rebuilding Red and Ted?

Thanks again.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from dbpbandit:

Is there any good documentation available for rebuilding Red and Ted?

Some nice RS repair tips can be found here:

http://www.aaarpinball.com/RoadShow/RoadShow.htm

#13 3 years ago

Lots of good information there, thanks for the link.

-Dave

2 months later
#14 2 years ago

Some time's I have to adjust the bulldozer on how sensitive it is, and it will not register the hit for Monday Tuesday etc does any one else have that problem ? and Thank You for any info that could help .

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from a21gunn007:

Some time's I have to adjust the bulldozer on how sensitive it is, and it will not register the hit for Monday Tuesday etc does any one else have that problem ? and Thank You for any info that could help .

Same problem on mine I bought the auto adjusting eddy boards from pinbits and still have a problem with it from time to time

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from a21gunn007:

any one else have that problem ?

Yes. Very common.
As noted above, there are replacement eddy boards available that should help, but apparently don't always completely solve the issue. The only time mine has been more than an annoyance was when I kept trying to adjust the wrong one. But that was only a problem because I'm an idiot.

#17 2 years ago

Thank You guys sometimes it will go a month as soon as I have great game here it goes "REALLY" was jusy messing with it now my kit out for start city is not registering any ideas there . I love this game one of my all time favorites . any help would be great and thank you two all. I have not been a member long but will be now for as long as I can play the pins thank you for any help on my problem .

2 weeks later
#18 2 years ago

Hi just figured i'd chime in. mine was in really good shape when i inherited it. ive got a couple switches registering out, but the only real issue i have is the prox sensor on the dozer blade. not sure yet how to fix it. oh yeah, start button had to be reseated just after moving home. its become very addictive even though its sitting next to circus voultier

#19 2 years ago

No replacement translites available..

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from tpike:

Hi just figured i'd chime in. mine was in really good shape when i inherited it. ive got a couple switches registering out, but the only real issue i have is the prox sensor on the dozer blade. not sure yet how to fix it. oh yeah, start button had to be reseated just after moving home. its become very addictive even though its sitting next to circus voultier

I was specifically going to mention the eddy sensor near the dozer blade! It can get a bit out of whack. Super easy to adjust... put it in switch test mode, then there is a tiny adjustment screw or dial on the board, use a tiny screwdriver to adjust it, put a ball above it or near it and turn it until the LED comes on (or you hear the switch test *ding*). I made mine register when its as close the the blade as possible. Easy! Have fun!

#21 2 years ago

Red doesn't swallow and Ted spits it out

#22 2 years ago

Thanks for the tip! Smashing cabs as we speak!

1 week later
#23 2 years ago

Well...shaker motor stopped working. And I have a switch out. How do you trace down the issues. I don't get how the switch matrix works. I don't know how that relates to the wire schematic.

1 year later
#24 1 year ago

Nice threads, everyone so helpful here on pinside. Getting Ted head out and back in after all the parts showed up from several different parts suppliers was a really big job for a beginner. NOT FUN.

#25 1 year ago
Quoted from tpike:

I don't get how the switch matrix works. I don't know how that relates to the wire schematic.

This should help you get started in understanding the switch matrix.

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting

#26 1 year ago

Does anyone have problems with teds eyes turning too far and jamming? I have completely redone this game which had many issues but I can't seem to crack this one..

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from marcs5:

Does anyone have problems with teds eyes turning too far and jamming? I have completely redone this game which had many issues but I can't seem to crack this one..

It's the centering bar on the back that the white flange rides on. When the eyes turn, the pressure on the white centering flange should return to center once the solenoid shuts off. Look on the sides of the frame, and you should see two brass eyelets that hold that centering bat in place. I bet they are worn out, and need to be replaced.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from NYP:

Red doesn't swallow and Ted spits it out

In any other forum, this would be flagged as inappropriate

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

It's the centering bar on the back that the white flange rides on. When the eyes turn, the pressure on the white centering flange should return to center once the solenoid shuts off. Look on the sides of the frame, and you should see two brass eyelets that hold that centering bat in place. I bet they are worn out, and need to be replaced.

Nice work dsuperbee, they do have a small amount of excess movement and when I squeeze them closed and bend the bar back inwards it seems to fix it, temporarily at least.. Wasn't looking forward to taking ted back out but i bet its just a matter of time.. at least I know now , so thanks very much for the tip dsuperbee

1 month later
#30 1 year ago

More Eyes/Eye Lid Issues-
Hi I just purchased a Road Show and the eyelids do not move on either Ted or Red. I started taking them apart and the A-14028 Plunger Assembly is broken apart (missing roll pin I think) in Ted and the plastic portion of that part is broken off ( in the metal plunger) in Red. They both have the 2 piece plunger design but I see Marco and BAA both sell as 1 piece (when in stock). Since that lower main lid A-14030 plunger assembly goes through the plastic portion of the A-14028, what is the best method to free the assemblies to replace these A-14028 Plunger Shafts without taking the heads out of the game? How ultimately is the hole at the end of the A-14030 shaft attached to the 03-8649-2 or 03-8649-1. Does anyone know the roll pin size to link the metal and plastic plunger? Also, are the 1 pc. versions of the A-14028 superior to the 2 pc. version? Thank you.

#31 1 year ago

Having been though this a bit when I got mine, I hate to say it, but your going to have to pull the heads. You can try to do it with the heads in but you will spend a lot more time fighting the parts back in.

Good news is red comes out pretty easy.

Bad news is, Ted......does not. Both ramps need to come out to get to the dozer blade, to get the ramps the habitrails need to come out. The bridge out orbit lane gets pretty dirty, so the good news is you can get in there and do some cleaning. Also, while your in there some stick on led strips under the ramps make the look amazing, so you can put them in while you have it apart..

#32 1 year ago

Yes confirm that , the heads need to come out. I can recommend replacing all the coils, the dozer link and the jaw links in both heads so you never have to do it again. The hole at the end of a-14030 goes over the tab at the end of the eyelids, I found this to be a challenge to reinstall.
I think a-14028 is one piece..

All the best

#33 1 year ago

I've gotten Ted out without taking the ramps out.
My fingers/knuckles paid a heavy heavy price tho.
I also had several rage attacks!

#34 1 year ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

I've gotten Ted out without taking the ramps out.
My fingers/knuckles paid a heavy heavy price tho.
I also had several rage attacks!

How in the world did you do this!
I don't believe you! LOL

1 week later
#35 1 year ago

To do a good job and address all the possible future issues you need to pull out the heads and replace every part that looks worn or out of whack the first time. Ted is a big job.

1 month later
#36 1 year ago

Picked up a Roadshow and have put maybe 80 hours into it by now just going bit by bit. Red's eyes wouldn't shut when balls were in her mouth and she looked like she'd taken a few on the chin! Plus she wouldn't spit balls either. So to remedy this I pulled her head out and noticed the link to the top right coil (which controls the eyes shutting) was not connecting. Dropped a bit of super glue on the plunger link to the coil and now her eyes close as they should. I also cleaned the entire area eyes and lids with a q-tip and water. Upon closer inspection I noticed the scoop had two different screws attaching it to the base. One larger screw and large washer made the scoop slightly off and would not sit flush. Therefore upon coil eject the ball was getting shot out on a angle causing it to get stuck back in her mouth. Upon placing the proper screw in, the scoop now sits flush and you guessed it the ball gets spit out like a champ. She even does the vomit noises just like...well you know and luckily her lipstick was nail polish which I rubbed off with a bit of nail polish remover. I replaced all flippers and EOS switches and but all new rubbers on. Check out the before and after shots. The coil stops were mushroomed terribly. The flippers got stuck open occasionally and the new springs fixed that right up. Hope this helps someone a bit. Btw any RS owners experiencing power sag upon left flipper activation? I could use some help with that.

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#37 1 year ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

any RS owners experiencing power sag upon left flipper activation?

Do you mean power to the left flippers is weak, or power to other things fades when left flippers are active?

#38 1 year ago

I'm referring to the GI dimming upon pressing the left flippers.

#39 1 year ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

I'm referring to the GI dimming upon pressing the left flippers.

That's a new one to me.
Power supply issue?
Hopefully someone has seen this before.

#40 1 year ago

Power supply as in transformer?

#41 1 year ago

Unlikely it's a transformer issue. Could be a high resistance in the circuit, which will draw too much current. Check all of the grounds and make sure they're clean and tight. Check everything on the left flipper supply and control lines.

If you still have the head out I would replace the part that was super glued. That type of adhesive really doesn't like vibration and will likely not last long. If the part is not available and you must glue it, there are much better choices than any of the super glue versions.

#42 1 year ago

Great thread. Picking one up soon.

#43 1 year ago
Quoted from terryb:

Check everything on the left flipper supply and control lines.

Total noob here please elaborate

#44 1 year ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

Total noob here please elaborate

Page 3-11 and 3-12 in the manual. Check the +50 volt wire going to the three flippers. Check the switched circuit (labeled power, not hold) from each coil to the fliptronics board. Check for loose or frayed connections. Remove J902 and J907 and check the male pins for corrosion.

This could also be a soft 50 volt supply to the coils since 3 coils are on the left side. Check the 50 volts going to the left coils with a meter.

#45 1 year ago

I will tonight thank you for the tips!

2 weeks later
#46 1 year ago

Is there a way to tone down the shaker motor? Just picked the machine up and good christ it's downstairs in the basement on carpet and it still rattles the whole bloody house. Not to mention it probably shakes every screw loose in the game. It's insane. Other issues... Flashers are out... at times. I fiddled around with the connectors, played a game after and noticed some flashers working. After that game I went to the test in the diagnostic and no flashers working. Not sure what's up there.

Other than that I have the eye permanently open issue on Red to fix and a dented side rail to replace. Any tips on that?

#47 1 year ago

The latest rom (l6?) has an option for a low power shaker.

The common failure points for red's eyelids are the plunger link. http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-NYL14030

This connects the eyelids to the metal plunger activated by the coils. The nylon gets old and brittle and cracks.

it could be a coil, or the eyelids themselves are broken, sometimes a coil will blow and take out the driver transistor with it. Best way to find out is to pull her head out, luckily she is the easy one to remove. Take the screw out of the helmet, and you will see the screws on the sides for her face and back of head, pull those and remove the plastics, then from underneath the playfield, you can pull the 4 screws for the jaw motor, and then the 4 on the head itself.

#48 1 year ago
Quoted from purplemunkydishw:

The latest rom (l6?) has an option for a low power shaker.
The common failure points for red's eyelids are the plunger link. http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-NYL14030
This connects the eyelids to the metal plunger activated by the coils. The nylon gets old and brittle and cracks.
it could be a coil, or the eyelids themselves are broken, sometimes a coil will blow and take out the driver transistor with it. Best way to find out is to pull her head out, luckily she is the easy one to remove. Take the screw out of the helmet, and you will see the screws on the sides for her face and back of head, pull those and remove the plastics, then from underneath the playfield, you can pull the 4 screws for the jaw motor, and then the 4 on the head itself.

Actually the piece that causes the plunger issues is the centering flange that is almost always missing from RS and FH. Pinbits has em. When the flange is gone, it puts undue stress on the plunger and the eyelids, causing them both to break eventually.

#49 1 year ago
Quoted from NYP:

Red doesn't swallow and Ted spits it out

If you do get the ball into Red's mouth (not easy to do), SHE spits it out and says "Yuck, that tastes awful!"

#50 1 year ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Actually the piece that causes the plunger issues is the centering flange that is almost always missing from RS and FH. Pinbits has em. When the flange is gone, it puts undue stress on the plunger and the eyelids, causing them both to break eventually.

good point, when mine was missing, the plunger would bottom out early on the wood assembly and not unlatch the mech and red's eyes would stay closed too. Its a good piece to buy a couple extra off because its cheap and really important.

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