Has anyone put a strip on the centre drain of TZ? There doesn't seem to be anywhere to tie into, given the length of wire supplied.
Quoted from dluth:Has anyone put a strip on the centre drain of TZ? There doesn't seem to be anywhere to tie into, given the length of wire supplied.
Just add a length of wire. I've done it many times to get the length I needed.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Just add a length of wire. I've done it many times to get the length I needed.
Same here. I did it on my TZ and it looks awesome, really lights up the drain spiral. I used white, tried purple first and it didn't look right.
Quoted from dluth:Has anyone put a strip on the centre drain of TZ? There doesn't seem to be anywhere to tie into, given the length of wire supplied.
Yes, but it has been awhile and I can't remember where we tied into. But I know we did not use any extra wire. If I were near the machine I would check for you.
I'm amazed that Art can sell these with all of the adapters for the price.
I added a 7 segment to my Space Station just above the three drop targets. Made a BIG difference. I ended up soldering it to one of the GI sockets under the playfield. I'll also post this on the Space Station forum link too.
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Quoted from DennisAZ:I'm amazed that Art can sell these with all of the adapters for the price.
Maybe a bit of a mistake.....$1.00 profit each after all is done, but I dont do this just for money....
I LOVE seeing pics like you posted, and all the cool places you guys have found to use them!
Reward Enough!!!!!
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Maybe a bit of a mistake.....$1.00 profit each after all is done, but I dont do this just for money....
I LOVE seeing pics like you posted, and all the cool places you guys have found to use them!
Reward Enough!!!!!
Oh come on now Art....we all know you live in a big fancy mansion and drive big fine cars down in Florida.
Here is a Cobra night light I made a mounting for, lit it with a red 6.3v 7 led strip from Comet and mounted it on my Mustang Pro. It's tied into a pop bumper led so it flashes when that pop is hit. Turned out great.
IMGA0492.JPG IMGA0495.JPG IMGA0502.JPG IMGA0500.JPG IMGA0503.JPG IMGA0504.JPG IMGA0505.JPGSo, I just tried installing some of these on my PinBot last night. I had mixed results, though that has everything to do with my own ignorance, not the product itself.
I want to do 2 things my game; first, add light on either side of the visor, illuminating the ramp in blue and red. This worked pretty well; I had to fish some wires a bit to get to a spot where I could clip on to the GI main line under the play field, but they work nicely and add tons of light to the somewhat dark back of the play field.
My second idea is, I want to tie in some LED strips to the insert blinkers which come on with timed shots (Energy Value and Solar Value to those familiar with PinBot). I added the strips and clipped them to those bulb sockets, but then things went a little haywire - all the lamp matrix bulbs lighting up dimly all the time. Then one of the strips just went out.
I'm still learning (the hard way) how a most of the electrical systems in my games work; my first guess is that I need to use the 12v strips on lamp matrix applications? But that's just me guessing. You guys have any insights?
Quoted from sethbenjamin:No, they're just regular #44 bayonet base. My lamps are all LED except for the flashers.
Well that's 6.3v then not 12v. All lamps are led, that's good. But I've never had a problem like you described but that is an older game. I can't think of anything that would cause your problem.
I cant either....You may need to start a separate thread on this....
What is different or could cause the addition of a strip to a flashing controlled insert, that would cause feedback back down the line, in a BOP, that would cause this?
What is the solution?
Sorry...I am stumped, and have never worked on a BOP, or games in this series to test or know....
Pinbot, not Bride of Pinbot! Not that it makes that much difference, they're both System 11 games
I'll start up a thread and see what we can come up with. Curious to get to the bottom of it! There might be some insight from the guy who's working on the bicycle girl Walking Dead light mod...
I got an answer, and it's so simple.
When you attach the strips to matrix lamp sockets, you have to be sure to clip one lead *behind* the diode. Otherwise you're connecting a whole row of the matrix.
5 minutes' worth of consideration or a simple "hey, how do I attach this" on this thread would have told me all I needed to know. My bad, entirely.
New strips ordered. Now I want to put them on everything.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:I got an answer, and it's so simple.
When you attach the strips to matrix lamp sockets, you have to be sure to clip one lead *behind* the diode. Otherwise you're connecting a whole row of the matrix.
5 minutes' worth of consideration or a simple "hey, how do I attach this" on this thread would have told me all I needed to know. My bad, entirely.
New strips ordered. Now I want to put them on everything.
Just look at my past posts and topics, I've used them a lot.
To see my latest led strip mod for my new NASCAR game go to "My Custom NASCAR Topper & mod talk". I LOVE these strips.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I LOVE these strips.
Me too!
The natural white 7 SMD strips worked great to light the ship and topper in my Maverick. Also used a blue 3 SMD for the gutter.
gutter.JPGRight at this time, strips can be alligator clipped to GI, or other 6.3V input, like inserts.
They can also be soldered, or socket attachments are included.
Being released in a few weeks, is our new Matrix system, with a larger variety and length of strips, brightness controls and more,
that will plug into any socket, without loosing the original light source. This will work with existing strips, as well as all the new ones
being offered.
It will take just minutes, to add all kinds of additional lighting, and affects, with a simple bulb change.
Formal announcements of a soft release should be in just a couple of weeks.
Art
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Right at this time, strips can be alligator clipped to GI, or other 6.3V input, like inserts.
They can also be soldered, or socket attachments are included.
Being released in a few weeks, is our new Matrix system, with a larger variety and length of strips, brightness controls and more,
that will plug into any socket, without loosing the original light source. This will work with existing strips, as well as all the new ones
being offered.
It will take just minutes, to add all kinds of additional lighting, and affects, with a simple bulb change.
Formal announcements of a soft release should be in just a couple of weeks.
Art
Way to go Art and as usual LEADING THE WAY in bulb tech and innovation.
Thank you Paul, but you know its your dialogue that inspired it!
First set is shipped to you for testing, and my thanks!
Well thanks Art. But for you to think it's a good idea and to make a way to see it happens is the real genius. I'm just an idea's kind a guy. Take my leg light up idea.
I too thank you Art for the great lights, man those LED 3 and 7 strips make a huge difference in the pins, and the fluted dome's are really fantastic. Looking forward to seeing this latest innovation.
Quoted from Hazoff:I too thank you Art for the great lights, man those LED 3 and 7 strips make a huge difference in the pins, and the fluted dome's are really fantastic. Looking forward to seeing this latest innovation.
DSC01922.jpg DSC01925.jpg DSC01924.jpg DSC01916.jpg DSC01912.jpg DSC01915.jpg DSC01920.jpg bb5410c9bbd8145032f14ca7a5201c0dccb64510.jpg
Lookin goooood.
I've got the 6.3v, 7 led strips all over my games, especially under the long plastics that have no bulbs like on one plastic on Mustang or just one or two bulbs. They spread out and smooth the light perfectly. Can't wait to see the new stuff.
Quoted from jawjaw:New light strips? Sounds great. I have several light strips in my Getaway and love them.
Yup a bunch of new stuff comin down the pipe from Comet, that Art never rests. You saw the way they lit up my gauge plastics above the sling plastics didn't you?
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Right at this time, strips can be alligator clipped to GI, or other 6.3V input, like inserts.
They can also be soldered, or socket attachments are included.
Being released in a few weeks, is our new Matrix system, with a larger variety and length of strips, brightness controls and more,
that will plug into any socket, without loosing the original light source. This will work with existing strips, as well as all the new ones
being offered.
It will take just minutes, to add all kinds of additional lighting, and affects, with a simple bulb change.
Formal announcements of a soft release should be in just a couple of weeks.
Art
This is awesome, Art! Can't wait to see them, I'm always looking for new and creative lighting ideas and you always have the best products.
Well, I finally installed led bulbs in my back box. I've followed Art's advice : mainly some 2 smd 2835 (frosted- natural and sunlight white) and some colored frosted on Yoda, Vador and the Death Star, all from Comet. The result is amazing.
The 2835 is really a good choice. And I am now considering to do leds in the inserts.
Some pinsiders say that the best thing to do is to choose colored leds to match the insert color. I am not sure about this. I've tried to light up the inserts with 2835. Honestly the result is excellent. Actually, the bulb provides a strong white light and the color of the insert itself makes the job....
This is true with all inserts except the red ones. With a white light, the red turns to orange... This is probably why some advocate using red bulbs under red inserts...
Suggestions ?
Thanks.....
Quoted from softail:Some pinsiders say that the best thing to do is to choose colored leds to match the insert color. I am not sure about this. I've tried to light up the inserts with 2835. Honestly the result is excellent. Actually, the bulb provides a strong white light and the color of the insert itself makes the job....
This is true with all inserts except the red ones. With a white light, the red turns to orange... This is probably why some advocate using red bulbs under red inserts...
I use the white bulbs in the inserts mostly because I like the way they make the facets of the inserts "sparkle". If you look at a new Stern you'll see what I'm saying. For white clear inserts I will put colored clear bulbs in them if I think it makes sense to do so otherwise I leave white clear bulbs in. Putting colored bulbs in colored inserts can make the decals printed on them difficult to see..."color bombed" if you will.
Regarding inserts and color matching.
Certainly, a color match results in a darker, more saturated color.
and Twin 2835 can be used in Yellow and orange to match as they are bright enough.
Frosted is recommended for older games...it will help hide surface scratches.
Regarding white in red, the answer/issue is less the bulb, but more the plastic insert.
Perhaps, you have seen some Blues that after 30 years, the color has lightened or decayed.
A white light wont look good at all. Blue, or Ice Blue, will restore the color insert.
On red, its similar. The batch of plastic, the amount of UV/Sunlight a game has received over its life, etc.
No standard rule. Reds, ....white or Red.
One just needs to try, and see what is right for them and their eyes, relative to the game, and home lighting conditions.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Regarding inserts and color matching.
Certainly, a color match results in a darker, more saturated color.
and Twin 2835 can be used in Yellow and orange to match as they are bright enough.
Frosted is recommended for older games...it will help hide surface scratches.
Regarding white in red, the answer/issue is less the bulb, but more the plastic insert.
Perhaps, you have seen some Blues that after 30 years, the color has lightened or decayed.
A white light wont look good at all. Blue, or Ice Blue, will restore the color insert.
On red, its similar. The batch of plastic, the amount of UV/Sunlight a game has received over its life, etc.
No standard rule. Reds, ....white or Red.
One just needs to try, and see what is right for them and their eyes, relative to the game, and home lighting conditions.
All true.
I've been using this as my general rule of thumb:
I almost always use frosted. Some games have exposed bulbs - for those I'll consider retro warm whites.
MustangPaul, your whites in inserts is interesting for "Sparkle". I'll have to keep in mind to try that depending on the title. I'm guessing retros/bare bulbs would be better here vs frosted, if it works for the color combination with the age/wear on the inserts.
Quoted from jfesler:MustangPaul, your whites in inserts is interesting for "Sparkle". I'll have to keep in mind to try that depending on the title. I'm guessing retros/bare bulbs would be better here vs frosted, if it works for the color combination with the age/wear on the inserts.
Actually from the new Star Trek on Stern used all clear whites in their inserts. I just love the look in ST and Mustang.
Quoted from softail:The 2835 is really a good choice. And I am now considering to do leds in the inserts.
personally, i dont use anything else.
GI, inserts, backbox.
obviously flexs when needed.
mostly frosted 2835s, but some instances, ill go the clear.
and might experiment with something else in the pops.
Comet's gear is awesome, I use it for the full lighting kits for the snackbar mod in which I use the 10 x smd led strips to edge light the light blades, then a led with an adapter lead so the led strip can be connected to the GI and then a flex led as well as the mod is taller than the original plastic for under the dome, and lastly a extender lead (between the GI and led strip) for easier removal of the mod. Comet supplies all the gear with their Matrix system.
Buy with confidence
Quoted from Rferullo:Has anyone used the Comet system on a game with an OCD GI board? I just got some and the LEDs don't light. I get about 4.2 V at the bulb. I'm guessing that's not enough to power the LED strips.
I have 3 of them on games and Comet bulbs work perfect.
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