(Topic ID: 287766)
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Gilbertsville, PA
That looks like a hack someone added, see how you're missing the connector to the GI and it's replaced with zip cord (the brown wires). It was a popular thing to do in the 80's on system 7 to split the GI from one fuse into 4 separate ones like this (see the fuse holders I think the zip cord is going to.) System 9 has this fix applied at the factory according to the schematics, but it still would have been through a (usually burned up) 2 pin connector.
The GI fuse would be a much higher value with incandescent bulbs - as high on 20a on some games.
That section of your power supply where the zip cord is looks like it's got carbon scoring all over the right side of it - that can be conductive (causing the fuse to blow).
If you disconnect the connectors that go out to the GI in the game, (head and playfield) see if the fuse still blows, if it does, it's on the power supply, if not, it still might be a case of needing a larger fuse in the supply. That circuit is dead simple, it's in, relay, out. If if weren't for the need to go through that relay this circuit wouldn't need to hit the power supply board at all.
If it's feeding the 4 fuses that are on the schematics at 5a each, it's going to need a larger fuse in the PS.
I unplugged the hacked brown wire, I put a new 5amp 250v fuse in. But it looked different from the other one. It had a much smaller wire. I put it in, booted it up, nothing, then plugged the hacked wire in and whola, it works somehow. And its been working now after about an hour of playing. So i dont know what exactly did it.
Quoted from slochar:
That looks like a hack someone added, see how you're missing the connector to the GI and it's replaced with zip cord (the brown wires). It was a popular thing to do in the 80's on system 7 to split the GI from one fuse into 4 separate ones like this (see the fuse holders I think the zip cord is going to.) System 9 has this fix applied at the factory according to the schematics, but it still would have been through a (usually burned up) 2 pin connector.
The GI fuse would be a much higher value with incandescent bulbs - as high on 20a on some games.
That section of your power supply where the zip cord is looks like it's got carbon scoring all over the right side of it - that can be conductive (causing the fuse to blow).
If you disconnect the connectors that go out to the GI in the game, (head and playfield) see if the fuse still blows, if it does, it's on the power supply, if not, it still might be a case of needing a larger fuse in the supply. That circuit is dead simple, it's in, relay, out. If if weren't for the need to go through that relay this circuit wouldn't need to hit the power supply board at all.
If it's feeding the 4 fuses that are on the schematics at 5a each, it's going to need a larger fuse in the PS.
Quoted from PinJoint:
I unplugged the hacked brown wire, I put a new 5amp 250v fuse in. But it looked different from the other one. It had a much smaller wire. I put it in, booted it up, nothing, then plugged the hacked wire in and whola, it works somehow. And its been working now after about an hour of playing. So i dont know what exactly did it.
Sometimes it’s just dumb luck. Glad it’s working
That same fuse keeps on blowing. It lasted a little while, i probably played at least an hr. Went out , came back to play and noticed no display lights. I dont even know what size fuse to put in? Or is another problem? That fuse isnt on the schematic, i didnt do the brown wire mod either.
Is it ok to just up the fuse size from 5a to like 8 or 10a?
Update i put a 10A fuse in. I played alot for total about 3hrs. I was in the middle of a tremendous first ball, i was up over a million with an extra ball, it was insane! The lights were blinking all over the playfield and bam the scoring displays went out. I immediately turned it off. I opened the backbox and it was very hot, probably overheated! I turned on and noticed no power to the main board.
I pulled some fuses and tested while it cooled down. All the fuses were good. About 20-30 minutes later i turned it on again and this time the main board was fine. I played a game to see how it was, it played fine.
I turned it off. wtf happened?? I think it may have something to do with the 2 wire mod job, but not sure.
That looks like a hack someone added, see how you're missing the connector to the GI and it's replaced with zip cord (the brown wires). It was a popular thing to do in the 80's on system 7 to split the GI from one fuse into 4 separate ones like this (see the fuse holders I think the zip cord is going to.) System 9 has this fix applied at the factory according to the schematics, but it still would have been through a (usually burned up) 2 pin connector.
The GI fuse would be a much higher value with incandescent bulbs - as high on 20a on some games.
That section of your power supply where the zip cord is looks like it's got carbon scoring all over the right side of it - that can be conductive (causing the fuse to blow).
If you disconnect the connectors that go out to the GI in the game, (head and playfield) see if the fuse still blows, if it does, it's on the power supply, if not, it still might be a case of needing a larger fuse in the supply. That circuit is dead simple, it's in, relay, out. If if weren't for the need to go through that relay this circuit wouldn't need to hit the power supply board at all.
If it's feeding the 4 fuses that are on the schematics at 5a each, it's going to need a larger fuse in the PS.
I put a 10A in and played for about 4hrs until the displays and main board shut down, GI still worked. I opened the box, it was very hot, checked fuses, all good. About half hr later i turned it on and main board turned back on with displays. It was now working correctly.
So im assuming it overheated? Im worried my board now is in jeopardy. Should i mount a fan in there?
DSCN1903 (resized).JPG
1 week later
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