(Topic ID: 104189)
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Comet
Williams, 1985
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Sana'a
1 month later
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8 months later
Quoted from shicketmaster:I expect the cycle ramp AIRBALLS, but that steep grade on the middle ramp gives them to me as well.
You are probably missing the thick washers that go under the center ramp rear supports.
Those washers just barely keep the ball from jumping off the ramp.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Found this in the cabinet. It is wired to a switch which activates when the coin door is opened/closed. This machine used to be on route. Some sort of burgler alarm perhaps?
If the game ever starts to smoke, you'll have plenty of warning.
9 months later
Quoted from Mikedenton49:Any suggestions are more than welcomed.
Don't use ANY LEDs to light the backbox.
Comet backglass has a warm yellow tone that is killed by any LEDs, even Warm White.
Swap any #44 bulbs for #47. The 47s have way less heat and provide the correct color spectrum for the glass.
Quoted from Brent1955:Hi fellow comites,
has anyone stepped up to the plate and made a replacement corkscrew ramp? Mine is not getting any better with age and will consist mostly of patches and duct tape soon.
It's coming.
I will post as soon as I get the prototype in the mail.
2 weeks later
Quoted from cocomonkeh:I'm fixing a comet for a friend of mine and it needs displays pretty bad. Looks like Pinscore makes a system 9 display. Before I order, does anyone have any other suggestions?
If some of the displays still work, you can always get a few used ones.
If going LED, make SURE you look at how the Display Controler connects to the game. Some Comets have pin connectors and some have edge connectors. If you just casually look, you will 100% buy the wrong one. You can, of course turn an Edge Connector game into a Pin Connector game, if you own a crimper.
Quoted from cocomonkeh:Also, is there a good way to cut down on hits to the glass from the jump ramp?
It's supposed to hit the glass.
Those exciting jump moments are what makes Comet so great.
(Whitewater also hits the glass, and if you listen closely, uses the same Wheeeeeeee sound from Comet....)
3 months later
Quoted from Fifty:Wouldn't fall out when you are transporting the pin and the game is folded up?
Nope, it stays put, no problems.
Quoted from Fifty:What are the holes in the base for then?
Vent holes in case the bulb get stuck in the ON position.
1 month later
Quoted from jaytrem:Any chance somebody would know how long this lane guide is supposed to be? My playfield was re-drilled there, and the hardtop I bought doesn't help much, seems to be a few extra holes. Thanks!!!
2.25"
The extra holes are so the difficulty of the outlane can be adjusted.
If ball times got too long after a few months, we would move the guide to the harder hole.
Quoted from jaytrem:Ahh, I see, thanks. I have a couple wobbly posts to take care of, the upper on that being one of them.
You can install a T-nut from below and then use a machine screw instead of a wood screw. This is the strongest post connection.
If you really want to use a wood screw, put a drop of wood glue in the loose hole, then tap in a Bamboo skewer, cut off excess with a pair of wire cutters. You don't have to wait for the glue to dry, just run the screw into the skewer.
Quoted from cocomonkeh:Working on a Comet after it was moved to a new owner. I'm getting lights and a 0 on the CPU board but no displays and I can't seem to coin up and start a game. I'm missing something obvious I just don't know where to go next since I can't find a system 6 guide on the German site.
If you have a meter, make sure your displays have high voltage.
Space Shuttle, Sorcerer and Comet are Sys9
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:Now I just need to find some repro ramps. All 3 of mine have some type of damage. If anyone has any spares laying around please hit me up.
Corkscrew ramp mold is being made right now, so in the next few months.
4 weeks later
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3 weeks later
Quoted from pinballjah:Can someone let me know which bulbs are used for the back glass. Looking to order some LED bulbs. Thanks for your help.
Comet is just one of those games that no known LED can provide proper illumination.
They desaturate the colors and make it look like trash.
And anyone that puts blue LEDs behind the COMET letters is officially the king of clown puke.
Just use some #47s, and bask in the genus that was Python.
1 month later
Quoted from mikusm:Does anyone know what material is used to cover the speaker and/or where I can get some? Just purchased a Comet and it is missing. Can't find ant references.
Probably speaker cover fabric, look for similar at Parts Express
3 weeks later
Quoted from bluespin:I found a Comet for sale at a reasonable price while doing a Craigslist search, so I thought that I would share with the group. It's not mine.
pittsburgh.craigslist.org link
It's got planking where there is no mylar, typical 80s Williams.
Seems well taken care of, wrong legs though.
1 week later
You can reuse the plastic female connector, but you should replace the internal sockets with Trifurcons. Replace the male connectors at the same time.
Use #47 incandescent bulbs instead of #44 so you pull only 1/2 the current through the new connectors. This will make them last forever.
1 week later
Quoted from Malenko:So where is the best place to get replacement pop bumpers for my Comet? I'd like to replace the existing solid red ones with translucent yellow,blue, and green ones (to match the bumper car colors). I'd like to get the bodies, caps and solenoids at a "one stop shop"
Solenoids are good forever unless they are black and burnt.
The colored bodies are available here:
Colored caps you can find anywhere on earth.
32837699320_e3cc2e725b_z (resized).jpg 3 weeks later
I believe that the only active coil in attract mode is the saucer kick out (so that if the game lost power, the ball could be returned to the trough upon power-up).
I don't think that the slingshots would respond to the switches unless a game has started.
I could be wrong, somebody check my math....
The pre-driver 4401 could have been stressed (even if it tested good) and the first trip of the slingshot switch killed it all the way, locking the coil on.
This is a very common 'I fixed it, now it's dead again' happening.
If you like shotgunning, then this time replace the trans AND the pre-trans.
(if you own pins, keep a stock of TIP102 (more heavy duty than the TIP122) and 2n4401 transistors, and coil diodes always in your tool kit)
Quoted from drsfmd:Hmmmm... I’ve only had to change out a handful myself, but I always made a point of replacing a transistor with the exact same. I took a quick look online but didn’t see any sort of interchange or compatibility table.
It's the same part, just with a higher amperage rating 5A vs 8A.
It costs 2 cents more, so better to get the heavy duty component.
Quoted from waynestatemac:Oh ok that's good to know. In my case I may just throw it in the cabinet since my machine is just for home use. I did a complete parallel flipper conversion kit install from Pinballlife and even with such haven't had any issues with the ball flying around in that area or getting stuck.
The balls will get stuck there, next time you wax the game, just slip that guard back in place.
Also, it's the perfect place to slip a LED lamp strip under, to light up the dark center of the playfield.
10SMD6.3VSTRIP-2T (resized).jpg 1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from Parkshow30:To close out my problem big thanks to vid. He reccomended changing the transistor, pre driver and diode all at once and sure enough problem solved!
Apparently changing them one at a time would not work.
Congrats on the repair!
With your cherry completely busted, you are now officially a pin-tech!
2 weeks later
Quoted from hawkeyexx:I installed a new dunk the dummy plastic and noticed one of the post that holds the plastic is not correct post. I look in my manual and can't find a part number to order one. Anyone have the part number?
Thanks
[quoted image]
That thing has probably been replaced a few times over the years. It does not have to be the same post as the others.
Put a washer down on the plastic, then a 6-32 screw through the washer and into the hole at the top of the post you have.
Two important things:
1. Put a scrap of Mylar under the new plastic (white side) so the dummy target does not wear all the paint off.
2. Put some of those PETG washers above the posts @ the Dummy, Comet entrance and Funhouse, or those plastics will be broken again in a few months.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet/page/2#post-4483968
53d2eb8e25388d74b704a02dd3e88b370409775d (resized).jpg
Quoted from hawkeyexx:The post must have been changed because there is not hole in that post to screw down the plastic. I guess I could drill a hole in that post.
Thanks for your help.
That post might go in the cycle jump area. They made 8000 Comets and some of the earlier ones had a blank post and no hole in the green plastic near the one way gate. That's why some owners look at the new plastics and are like "huh??"
You can get the proper posts (either with 6-32 hole or with 6-32 stud) from pinball life
Buy an extra post, because those things will shear off sooner or later.
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-14-tall-metal-post-with-threaded-base-and-female-threaded-top.html
530-5332-01_400x169 (resized).jpg530-5332-03_400x169 (resized).jpg
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Interesting. I had read that somewhere before, too. This board does not appear to have that option. The folks at Marco are stumped and researching the issue. I'll report back here as things develop.
[quoted image]
I think the jumpers are on on the displays themselves, not the master display board - worth a look
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Nothing there that I see (nothing on the back either, just the soldered legs of each digit). Thanks for the suggestion, though.
[quoted image]
Yeah, your's looks different (I see Revision B on your boards)
I wonder why they just did not enable them for all games?
Were there any sys7 games that did not have commas?
Quoted from vid1900:Yeah, your's looks different (I see Revision B on your boards)
I wonder why they just did not enable them for all games?
Were there any sys7 games that did not have commas?
Just checked with James, his Comet is Pinscore RevB and the commas all work on his.
He said he did not flip any jumpers, they were set out of the box.
Just so everyone knows what we are talking about:
Comet had two different display driver boards from the factory.
One with edge connectors, the 8363.
One with pin connectors, the 10749 board that have header pins for voltage and I/O
But, none of this has anything do do with commas.
Both boards do the exact same thing, and you can cut the I/O connectors off from the harness and switch one to the other in about 10 minutes.
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:Does anyone sell the left inlane/outlane lane guide? It's transparent red, double-sided, 3 1/8" I believe. I can't seem to find one.
From the factory, the lane divider was single sided.
If you can't find a single, buy a double, score it on the inside with a razor and snap it off.
Leave about 3mm of the cut side intact so there is some reinforcement to the plastic.
Sand off any rough edge so it does not wear on the rubber ring.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Lathroum:Any Ideas on where to look?
There is a scoring switch that is activated at the base of the kicker arm
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet/page/2#post-4484021
2 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from madmatt1:On to another subject..... while my pin is down how to do people feel about Playfield Protectors?
A protector will keep the playfield from wearing further, and level out all your cupped or sunken inserts.
Or just wax it and put Mylar over all the wear spots to keep them from getting worse.
Quoted from madmatt1:JAYTREM: my wear on the PF is not really that bad. A little on the main orange and yellow stripes and a little on the cycle jump. But the worst is the top of the PF (around the 1986 inserts) and the shooting lane.
See below pictures:
Your playfield is blown out already (tons of planking), so you can just wax and play it without worry that you are damaging a restorable playfield
Clean all that rust off you ramp flap(s), cause that kills your balls fast.
Quoted from madmatt1:Already Vid1900, should I put some mylar down around the "1986" and the shooting lane? Or will this just cause more problems?
You could put a strip across it.
Although, because the lettering is already worn to the wood, any restorer would re-decal the entire phrase - so it's not a big worry if it wears a little more.
Quoted from madmatt1:I will clean all the rust off and repaint.
They were "gun blued" originally, because paint won't stick.
You can clean and wax them and it will take many years to rust again
Or if you have a gun nut friend, they can re-blue them for you.
Or you can just buy new ones.
Quoted from madmatt1:Second, I need a list of LEDs to buy for the machine. I know one of you wonderful people has done it; i've seen it. If someone would like to direct me to that thread, that would be great.
You need 36 of simple WarmWhite # 44 bulbs for white and amber inserts (so just get two 25 packs so you have spares):
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/led.htm
You 14 of the simple Red # 44 bulbs (get one 25 pack):
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/led.htm
You need 6 of the Green # 44 bulbs:
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/led.htm
You need 36 for the GI playfield in WW or Natural White (two 25 packs?):
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd.htm
You need 3 Red "bendies" in # 44 base (to light the top rollover and saucers):
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdflex.htm
I'd strongly suggest you get 5 of the frosted LED strips in WW or NW (although not needed, you will want):
https://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-10-SMD-5050-6-3V-LIGHTED-STRIPS-p/10smd6.3vstrip.htm
Leave the backbox in all #47 incandescent bulbs, no LED yet made can preserve the yellow tones. If you try to put Blue LEDs behind the COMET letters, you will be castrated & kicked out of the Comet Club forever.
Quoted from jaytrem:Note: these are wedge and I don't see any bayonet with the outer lighting.
I just put some of these in mine...
https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-classic-pop-bumper-lighting-for-bayonet-sockets.html
Cheaper from Comet, and they have Wedge or Bayonet:
https://www.cometpinball.com/Pinball-Pop-Bumper-LED-Light-p/11smdbmpdisc.htm
If you know how to solder, it's best to flip them so the bright lights face the playfield, and you can skip the socket altogether.
Quoted from jaytrem:Looks like no bayonet rings from Comet either. I think I might just replace the sockets so that I can go with the rings at some point.
You can put any base on them you want.
If you order the LED strips from Comet, it will come with both 555 and 44 bases, so you can just use those 44 bayonet bases with the Rings.
But because pop bumpers are such a high vibration location, it's usually better to just skip the sockets altogether, and use wire leads directly to the underside of the playfield. No flickering lights that way!
Quoted from madmatt1:2# I'm guessing I should go with the warm white instend of the Natural white to give it that older look and feel
The natural white is pretty sweet.
Maybe get a bag of them and see if that becomes your fav
Quoted from madmatt1:3# For the GI lights, should I do clear top or frosted top?
They come clear (you'll see in the link), but I sand them with 120 so they don't make the 2 shadows on my plastics.
Quoted from madmatt1:4# The frosted LED strips sound like a great idea, but were would you suggest placing them?
One goes under the metal strip above the Rabbits
2 go behind the ducks
2 go under comet ramp
1 goes under cycle ramp
They all are out of direct vision of the player. You might find other hiding places for them.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet/page/2#post-4483968
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Mine didn't have this piece and I didn't even know about it. I just grabbed one off of ebay and will definitely be adding a light strip there also looks perfect for it.
It's good you got that piece, otherwise balls wedge under the ramp and crack the plastic
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Hey just wanted to know how many of you guys out there have this Ramp Protector on your machine?
That's a pretty popular protector, you sometimes see it on SS too.
It's way better than the tiny metal strip that originality came with Comet, just make sure that the ball does not hit the screw heads; they should be flush.
Quoted from TooFiddyMan:I have a Comet that I have fixed up but I am still needing 3 displays. I haven't been able to find any repro stuff that matches up. If I am correct, it sounds like they switched the board at one point and I have the one that Rotten Dog doesn't make. Does anybody out there have any extra ones or any idea where to find some new or used?
There were 2 master display boards that are different.
The displays themselves are the same.
I probably have both master boards, I'd have to look.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/comet-any-fans-out-there/page/10#post-4619423
2 weeks later
Quoted from hwyhed:I have a question for you boys/fans of Comet..I replaced the rubbers some time ago, and every so often it scores 100 points..sometimes when I hit either flipper, sometimes just on its own! It makes a sound similar to when you 1st hit the dummy..a ‘wha wha’ kinda sound..so what scores 100? I’ve looked at the slingshot, as well as the dummy, and all gaps appear fine and clean..I appreciate your time/thoughts on this..
Go into Switch Test
Use your fist to bang around on the playfield and see if that triggers the switch
The display will tell you what switch just triggered.
It's **probably** the target behind the Dummy, but a flaky diode could mask as another.
-
If banging won't do it, then manually trigger each switch, and then check the display for each - making sure that the Switch# matches the number in the manual.
2 weeks later
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:. Vid I know you did that hardtop overlay on your machine maybe you can weigh in here if you had any to replace? Thks
Wireforms break occasionally.
They still make new ones, and even if they did not, you can just bend new ones from the same gauge piano wire
Also, I'll admit that I've used a Bally wireform in a Williams game - got to keep them earning....
1 year later
Quoted from byurick:I just came across a youtube video about a system 11, 9, and 7 flaw that can start a fire. He shows how to add extra fuses to stop it from happening. Is this mod necessary on a Comet?
Quoted from Bluebeard:Has anyone else used the ramp without the metal plate?
The ramp will crack without the metal plate.
If it fit together before you took it apart, then you must have put something together wrong (did you forget the washers on top of the posts, under the ramp at the back ?)
The new repro ramps will probably have a thin metal flap, that will give a smoother transition than the metal threshold on the OEM ramp - stay tuned
Quoted from byurick:No metal on my ramp, guess the previous owner removed it for some reason. Anyone know if you can buy it separately? No luck finding it so far.
I think it's the same metal as Space Shuttle, and there should be lots of those around since the repro ramps don't need it.
I have a few of those pieces, but I'm out of the country right now.
Quoted from reconsider59:If anyone sees this and knows what could be causing F2 to blow over and over again, please advise!
Could be a cracked diode on one of the coils.
Run the coil test and see which one of them kills the fuse
Tug on each diode hard and see if any fall apart.
Make sure you are using a 2.5a fuse (check my math in the manual, but I think that's right)
1 month later
1 week later
^ In pic #2 it looks like you need to square up all your bracket bends, back to 90 degrees; especially the left upright in that pic.
Nothing should be able to rub against the bracket or switch lever arm, when pushed to either side.
Also, is the switch lever arm exiting in the center of the switch blade? Otherwise the angle will be wrong.
IMG_20201230_150743 (resized).jpgComet owners, don't forget that today is your last day to get a new set of plastics from CPR for only $119
Use coupon code PLASTICS2020
This was out of stock for MANY years
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/comet/
plas-comt (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:Do you have a link to these? My corkscrew is in fantastic shape, but the cycle jump plastic part is glued together (albeit very nicely)
Highly recommended
1 week later
Quoted from midcoastsurf:The coil does not fire during gameplay, only if I ground the Q48 transistor. The drop target resets fine and stays up if I ground the transistor manually. It’s like the machine is not communicating with the coil to reset it during a game. It does not fire when game is turned on or when a game is started.
If it does not fire when the game is turned on (or in Coil Test) then the transistor is probably fried open.
Grounding the transistor tab shows that the WIRING itself is good, so you have eliminated that.
If you want a shotgun fix, replace the Q48 transistor (tp102) and the Q44 pre transistor next to it (2n4401)
1 week later
Quoted from reconsider59:I think I'm going to try taking a page out of jason43's book and fabricate a paper-clip replacement.
Don't use a paperclip to make gates, use piano wire because it springs rather than deforms from use
Marco, Pinrestore, PBR, everyone sells short lengths of it
Quoted from reconsider59:I thought, and hoped, this simple solution was the correct answer...but I was worried that in some sort of n00b stupidity, there was something else that could have gone wrong, that I just didn't know about.
If you want to **know**, check the switch with your meter.
If it beeps in both the ON and OFF positions, you know it has failed with the contacts closed.
Higher amperage is good (if you are only drawing 4 amps and your switch is rated for 20 amps, the switch will last forever)
Higher voltage is good (same thing, if switch is rated for 240vac and you are using it on a 120v circuit, that's great)
Many toggle switches are made for automotive use and are only rated for 36vdc, so dont use those by accident
2 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from midcoastsurf:Good point about the Million sticker. Just realized I don't have this sticker, but will pick one up as I'll need to cover the screw heads.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/comet-any-fans-out-there/page/8#post-4457374
1 week later
About once a month someone emails me as to what flipper mech to completely replace and modernize their hacked-up Comet mechs with.
Remember, you need a left and right baseplate! Otherwise, use this configuration:
https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-williamsbally-machines-from-021992-to-101998.html
comet-flipper (resized).jpg
Wait, what, why? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
1 month later
1 week later
Quoted from Aznorthbend:My drop target for dummy tank (Comet)was decapitated. anybody know where to find one or a good fix? I tried to glue but it doesn't seem like it will last one hit. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]
OOS at the moment from Marco:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7773-4
You can modify one from Pinball Mods:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/translucent-drop-targets-from-pinball-mods-vid-s-review
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:Does anyone happen to know the part number off the original slingshot? I ordered 2 new ones from Marco and the ones they sent are not the same. You can see the the leg that activates the switch is much longer on the original. It is too short to activate that switch on the new replacement ones. Figured i'd try pinball resource but we all know if you don't have a part number you get screamed at. The original is the one on the right in the pic.
[quoted image]
Looks like you bought A-12664
You probably wanted A-7986
2 weeks later
Quoted from Jason43:Anyone have any idea what's happening with these resistors? My game was having some weird behavior with displays and solenoids going out sporadically. I opened it up to take a look and immediately noticed chalky residue laying inside. Not sure if these are the cause, but giving them a tap seemed to replicate the issue. I know they'll need to be replaced, but I've never seen this before.
[quoted image]
Thats how they make them.
Inside the ceramic jacket, there is a coil of wire.
Then they fill the jacket with cement
They get super hot, so don't touch them if the game has been on.
Yours are probably fine, you can check them with a ohm meter if you want.
51A0Q5A-lPL._SL1100_ (resized).jpgresistor-ceramic-structure_full (resized).jpg
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:I'll mess around with it tomorrow and see if I can come up with something to get it working as well as before the change (unless anyone else has any advice) or if I did actually install it incorrectly.
Maybe you got it with the wrong posts installed by a previous owner?
Swap the posts with shorter ones, or cut/grind the existing ones down
I don't have a comet here, but I'm sure someone can measure the proper height for you
2 weeks later
Quoted from pacman11:Anyone know where I can get a new cork screw ramp?
Freeplay40 makes all the Comet ramps.
Much better than OEM quality, I use them myself
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/comet-any-fans-out-there/page/23#post-6202533
Quoted from codered9394:Wondering if i can get some help figuring out what male and female pins goes in the connector. Trying to repair but not sure what to order.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Page 26 in the manual has the replacement pin info
Quoted from Comet_20:The screw for this post will not tighten because the wood is striped out under it. My question is can i replace this wood screw with a stud that threads into a T-nut like what is use for the lanes at the top of the paly field. or the ones around the kicker? or is there a better solution?[quoted image]
You can t-nut it, but then you can't adjust the outlane to make it more difficult as your skills increase
Or you can just dip a shish-k-bob skewer in white glue, and tap it into the hole. Snip flush to the playfield with wire cutters, and put the post back in; you don't even have to wait for the glue to dry
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-fixing-stripped-screw-holes-in-wood
1 week later
3 weeks later
Quoted from gstanczuk:Now I am looking for the balls gate assembly of the wire for the left outlane. Seems it’s out of stock and discontinued. There is a paper clip in its place, it works but would like to get the proper part.
Just bend a new one from Piano Wire
It's stiff and springy, so it won't deform like a paper clip does.
1 week later
Quoted from RazorV23:My cycle jump outhole is not ejecting ball back into play. I know the switch works cause it makes the proper sound when the ball enters the outhole. If I gound the coil at the mpu connection, the ball ejects so I believe the coil and wiring is good so it must be a board issue. I’m not sure what to look for, any help is appreciated.
Run the Solenoid Test.
If it doesn't fire, it's probably the driver transistor, and the pre-driver transistor : always replace both at the same time
Quoted from gstanczuk:My Comet is now mostly restored. One issue remains, the #1 and #6 seem to be tied together as one lights up the other. The wiring appears correct. During switch test the lanes only trigger each switch not both. Is there perhaps something in the settings that I am missing?
Does the LaneChange move them correctly?
4 weeks later
3 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from jaytrem:A number if people have had ghosting problems with Comets combined with Pinscores, so I would avoid those. I would be one of those people, don't ever recall anybody coming up with a fix.
Did they change the design recently ?
I've got Pinscores in Comet, Sorcerer and Space Shuttle and they don't flicker that I can see.
The million digit flashes at the end of the game if you scored the 1 million point shot on the 3rd ball.
It does not flash if you go over a million without that big bonus.
I'll have to pay attention next time I play....and see what version of the ROM I have installed.
Quoted from jaytrem:The pic below is what I mean by ghosting. Since it's on ball 0 a 0 shows up in the million spot on player one. Not as bright as the "real" numbers though.
[quoted image]
I see.
Yeah, that's nothing I've seen myself.
Does it happen if you put the board into a Spaceshuttle or Star Light?
2 weeks later
Quoted from gstanczuk:My stationary switch bracket for the target behind the dunk the dummy broke. I am looking for a replacement for the stationary switch bracket or the assembly. I can’t seem to find the correct one anyone have the correct part number and where to purchase it?
It's just a standard rear mount Stand Up Target, nothing special
You can get them at PBR or PL
http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-round-stand-up-targets-rear-mounting.html
PBR has all the target faces, so if yours is cracked, you can get a new bullseye there too
wll-a11317-3 (resized).jpg 4 weeks later
Quoted from Atari_The_Jedi:Hi everyone, I'm looking for the gate and the wire form Williams part number: A-10789. It's the gate and the wire that prevent the ball from going back into the plunger after it's done through the Comet ramp. Marco doesn't have any in stock with wondering if somebody might have an extra laying around. Thanks. And I thought this thing was complete
[quoted image]
Easy enough to bend from a strip of stainless.
Use the gate from the exit of the cycle jump as your guide.
1 month later
Quoted from flynnsarcade:I,m also missing 1 of the spacers for mounting top of ramp ,Where can i find This spacer (Not Sure what to call it ) Thank You
Those are called 6-32 Round Standoffs
If you need a tough to find size, order a longer one, and just trim it off with a fine tooth hacksaw blade
...or connect 2 smaller ones together.
Often it's best to get them without the male threads sticking off the end, that way you can join them in more ways.....
https://www.google.com/search?q=6-32+round+standoff
633136__66498.1586989303 (resized).jpgYou are just removing a small enough amount of wood to allow a smooth transition up the ramp.
Don't trim the plastic ramp, cuz if you make it thinner, it will be all the more likely to crack like the old one did
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-repo-ramp-modification-guide
2 weeks later
Quoted from Pinbub:Need a little help folks. I'm popping a solenoid fuse when I power up my Comet.
Unplug the solenoid plugs from the mpu board (don't quote me but J11, J12, J19 from memory) turn on game and see if anything blows
If not, turn off all the lights in the room and watch as you plug one of the connectors in. There will be a small arc/spark on the pin of the shorted one
Solder a fuse breaker from a blown fuse, so you dont keep wasting fuses
ikjndex (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinbub:Thanks Vid, I do have circuit breakers. I'll try isolating and go from there. The fuse is popping when I initially turn the game on, before I try to start a game.
It could be a dead short, or it could be a saucer kickout that activates the moment the game boots up
1 week later
Quoted from mfdavis1:Removed it out of circuit and replaced fuse, power on. The fuse didn’t pop right a way, but have after about 10 seconds, burnt out again. Any thoughts or ideas?
Check the two kick outs, fun house and cycle jump
Both trigger as soon as the game boots up
1 week later
Quoted from radium:Thanks looks like my manual is missing some pages.
Under the apron, there were pieces of a broken wireform hanging off the ball guides along the trough. It has a hole drilled on each side, looks factory. It's not listed in the manual though.
Just bend a new one from Piano Wire, it does not have to be exact. Make a spare and put it in the coin bin.
F-14 eats so many wire gates up top, I always make a dozen of each while I have the jig out. Every f14 service call needs one or the other....
Quoted from mfdavis1:Still looking for some advice in bringing back a Comet. Please see my post above.
Do you have a volt meter......?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-properly-ask-for-pinball-repair-help-vids-guide
Quoted from mfdavis1:Yes and checked all solenoids and fuses. All are in range (exempt for the f2 fuse that continues to blow). Displays don’t come on at power on. Only the playing field lights and black lights.
So game boots up, plays the "AHHHHHHHHHH!" sound, and enters the playfield light show attract mode?
Quoted from mfdavis1:I’m sure I have many issue but found to solenoid is blowing the fuse. When I test the solenoid in circuit, the Q81 transistor causes the fuse to blow. Guessing replacing the transistor will solve this issue?
There is the little pre driver transistor next to it that has to go too
But if the game does not boot, a driver transistor is the least of our worries
Quoted from mfdavis1:So any suggestions or hope?
Get your meter out
Set it to Volts DC
Find the Test Points on the CPU or the connector (IJ17) where the voltage comes in and make sure you have 5vdc
If not, then go to the power supply board and see if you have 5vdc working there
2 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from Philly76:Anyone know the part number for the lamp bayonet base inside the pop bumpers? Mine are oxidized and not making a good connection. A friend told me there's a brush tool that can clean these up? Idk
If you have a Dremel, there is this bit that came with your kit, that can clean out those oxidized sockets (metal brushes can leave behind bristles that short out the lamp )
Screenshot 2022-05-13 at 00-32-35 dremel bits - Google Search (resized).png
But ...I'd just skip the crappy socket altogether and put in a LED disc:
33f5c97738c1fee2c6ca76a81e7c5e54a43c2c7b (resized).jpg
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet#post-4470189
1 month later
3 weeks later
Quoted from mfdavis1:Having issues with the backlights on a Comet Pin. The “coaster Car” is not lighting up. Can someone help me trace this issue?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I think the car circuit gets it's power from the wires right in front of the relay cube on the back of the lamp board
Check if those are getting power
The eyes of the car are separate
Quoted from Atari_The_Jedi:I'm circling back on Comet I have a couple of minor issues I got a tackle but now the Billy ball eject keeps firing. Not sure why it's doing that unless perhaps the diode has failed but everything tested fine.
Put a piece of paper between the switch contacts and see if he is still firing.
Bend the tabs on the ass of the switch further apart, examine carefully for solder splash flake
Could be flaky pre-driver or driver transistor
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from Atari_The_Jedi:. I've cleaned all the solder that I can and I even heated it up to try to pull it off but damn if this thing won't move
[quoted image]
Put some flux on both sides of that connector, heat with soldering iron
It will pull right off
2 months later
2 months later
The corrosion will continue until it reaches the circuit board.
Clean it with toilet bowl cleaner, or just snip the entire holder off the board
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid
Quoted from astevens:Hi, everyone. I'm wondering if anyone has a photo of the original duck and rabbit drop target artwork in good color condition. I
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/comet-any-fans-out-there/page/8#post-4457374
2 months later
Quoted from ShuntyMcShunt:Hey everyone! Still looking for this metal ramp entrance piece as pictured in my post. stupid piece seems impossible to find.
The Space Shuttle games originally had 2 of these per game.
The modern replacement ramps come with conventional ramp-flaps.
So anyone who's restored their SS, should have some spares for you....
Shuttle-Inst-002.jpg
4 months later
Quoted from TheHouseHack:Hi. I have decided to fix up some of the little things on my Comet. The entry area to the Comet ramp had been "fixed" with the wrong parts. I need the two posts, the rubber sleeves, and the two screws. The rubbers are listed in the manual, but I can not seem to find which posts (and screws) I need. It would be appreciated if someone could identify them with a part number. I have attached a picture, after removing the incorrect parts for clarity.
Thanks
[quoted image]
Although they don't make the exact post any longer, get 2 of these:
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-14-tall-metal-post-with-threaded-base-and-female-threaded-top.html
And get 3 of these post sleeves:
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-1-116-willamsbally-compatible-rubber-post-sleeve.html
Get some 6-32 locking screws, you need them all the time in pinball
https://www.pinballlife.com/6-32-x-14-pan-screw-with-locking-washer.html
1 week later
Quoted from interconnect:Anyone know if there's anywhere that sells the slingshot arms? Marco and Action are out of stock. Mine are worn pretty bad. I'm doing a rebuild of them and cleaning and replacing all the components; plunger and link, mounting bracket, spring, coil sleeve, etc. I think the arm at the pivot joint is worn so looking to replace it but can't find them anywhere. Thanks.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet/page/2#post-4484021
Quoted from interconnect:Awesome, thanks Vid. So the arm mentioned above should work?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-bumper-crank-assembly.html
Also, I already bought these links plunger and links from Marco:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-5103
And this base/mounting bracket:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17810
Should work eh? Both based off of original part number.
No, that arm is the wrong one.
If you use it, it will physically work... but not score.
You need to find one with the longer "Scoring Lever", or reuse your old arm until they are available again.
1 week later
Quoted from TheHouseHack:Lane change has not worked on my machine as long as I have had it. I finally decided to look at it today. I do not want to admit how long it took me to figure out what the very obvious problem with it is.
My question is; how is it supposed to be wired? Is there anything else missing, like a resistor? I can not work it out from the manual.
You need a lane change switch, and a diode.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-lane-change-switch.html
Pinside_archive_106_1308076 (resized).jpg
The white/blue stripe wires and the non-banded side of the diode (1n4004), go to the tab that does not connect to the blades.
The banded side of the diode goes to the outside blade
The green/yellow stripe wires go to the inside blade
elsw-0041 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from snextime:I am looking for the "First ever 1 million pinball shot" sticker. If anybody has one for sale or can make me one please message me.
[quoted image]
Print on Avery permanent sticker paper, cover in Mylar
Pinside_forum_2059298_444692 (resized).jpgQuoted from reconsider59:Marco Specialties has 'em.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-540-GS-MIL
I wonder who screwed up the formatting on the text??
It's like all the text drifted up to the top of the frame...
Quoted from cooperscooter:Hey everyone! I'm restoring two Comet machines - one to keep (which is done) and one to sell (which is 90% there). What I am looking for is the metal ball defense bracket that mounts OVER the Shooting Gallery. I have one, but need a second one to make both machines complete. I cannot for the life of me determine this part's actual name or part number. And, I am sure I could make one if I had a line on that kind of piece of metal - would be easy to shape. Does anyone have an extra one of these parts, or know where I can get one, or know of anyone selling the kind of metal used so I can fabricate one? Thanks!
[quoted image]
It's a strip of stainless steel, and would be easy to bend a replica.
Maybe someone here can measure the gauge of it for you
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