(Topic ID: 104189)

Comet Club - Admit One

By midcoastsurf

9 years ago


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  • 1,751 posts
  • 189 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 80 days ago by Evlclown
  • Topic is favorited by 88 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider reconsider59.
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#632 4 years ago

Hey everyone!

Getting my Comet up and running...it's getting real close (the big thing at the moment is, I think, just the pop bumpers being sluggish), but there's also a problem with the sound. I get the "hey, Turkey!" guy taunts, and the train sounds on the left outlane, and the coaster sounds and drumrolls...but no music!

I do believe there used to be sound, back when I played this game in my grandparents' basement in the 90s...where should I start, to figure out what might be wrong? Thanks!

#636 4 years ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

Yes, you should have music playing. I suspect it's something more, but there is a knob on my sound board that controls something like the voice/music ratio. Can't hurt to check that.

...I had no clue that was a thing...sure enough, that was it! I thought the volume pot was only under the playfield...

THANK YOU!

3 months later
#720 4 years ago

Can anyone help me figure out why the star rollover switch at the top of the playfield before the corkscrew ramp wouldn't be registering?

2 weeks later
#732 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinbub:

clean your switches......all of them. You and Comet will be happier!

Thanks for this—it encouraged me to try to clean it again, and lo and behold, this time it actually worked!

...but it created a NEW problem. As I was testing it, each time it would connect I'd get a little blip of sound; but then, at one point, it stopped making sound. And now, the game won't make ANY sound.

Anyone know why this would happen? I tried the sound test from the CPU, and no luck.

Additionally, there's been a ton of hum from the speakers lately; and the right flipper, when held on, will make a big, loud hum. Ideas on how to fix this?

#733 4 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Thanks for this—it encouraged me to try to clean it again, and lo and behold, this time it actually worked!
...but it created a NEW problem. As I was testing it, each time it would connect I'd get a little blip of sound; but then, at one point, it stopped making sound. And now, the game won't make ANY sound.
Anyone know why this would happen? I tried the sound test from the CPU, and no luck.
Additionally, there's been a ton of hum from the speakers lately; and the right flipper, when held on, will make a big, loud hum. Ideas on how to fix this?

An update: the sound is back!

But the hum remains (I've noticed it's in time with the attract lighting), there's a LOUD hum on the right flipper when it's engaged, *and now* the 5 amp s.b. fuse for the flippers has blown—second time since this whole issue started.

It seems there's an issue with the power, or the grounding. I'm not sure how to diagnose the source, though. Any thoughts welcomed...

6 months later
#830 3 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

These are available now. Center ramp is first up for the new heater. Plastic sets available at CPR
[quoted image][quoted image]

These look SO good, Freeplay40 — thanks so much for putting that center ramp at the top of your list!

4 months later
#941 3 years ago

How does everyone else’s kick-out from the ramp shot function?

I’ve replaced the coil sleeve, and it seems the solenoid works just fine, but I’ve always felt that the kick feels...weird. Like it SHOULD kick into the pops, but it just kind of dribbles down to the flippers.

1 month later
#974 3 years ago

Can anyone tell me what the exact part # is, or full specs that I'm looking for, to replace the relay for the back-box lights? It's mentioned in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-comet-no-backbox-lights

...but when I try to look for what EXACTLY I should be looking for to replace it, I can't figure it out...

1 week later
#993 3 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Pretty sure this is what I used.
EHDIS Motor Relay 5 Pin 24V Coil 40amp Spdt Model No.: JD2912-1Z-24VDC 40A 28VDC, Contactor Relay Switch Power, Auto Switches & Starters, 2 Pack amazon.com link »

...seems right! Thanks so much!

2 weeks later
#1012 3 years ago

Hey everyone,

Weird thing happened last night: all of a sudden, NOTHING works except my flippers? I'm guessing I need to replace a fuse, haven't opened up the backbox yet, but...wtf? Any ideas on what would cause this to happen, seemingly out of the blue?

I'd blown F2 a couple times recently, not sure if that may be related...

Any thoughts welcomed, thanks, y'all.

#1032 3 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Hey everyone,
Weird thing happened last night: all of a sudden, NOTHING works except my flippers? I'm guessing I need to replace a fuse, haven't opened up the backbox yet, but...wtf? Any ideas on what would cause this to happen, seemingly out of the blue?
I'd blown F2 a couple times recently, not sure if that may be related...
Any thoughts welcomed, thanks, y'all.

Just an update on this, in case anyone else runs into this: I replaced F2 again, and everything came back on again. Not really sure why NOTHING was working, as in, no switches were registering, even after starting a game...previous times F2 has gone, the sols wouldn't work, but if the ball were in play, things would score.

If anyone sees this and knows what could be causing F2 to blow over and over again, please advise!

#1036 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Could be a cracked diode on one of the coils.
Run the coil test and see which one of them kills the fuse
Tug on each diode hard and see if any fall apart.
Make sure you are using a 2.5a fuse (check my math in the manual, but I think that's right)

Thanks for this!!! Will do a check soon...

1 month later
#1058 3 years ago

Weird issue that I'm wondering if anyone else has run into...

On my game, the wire and switch that triggers when the ball drops from the center-ramp will sometimes get pushed *too far* by the way the ball rolls out, and will be stuck in that extended position. It will only become un-stuck by the next shot from the shooter lane, when it'll (usually) re-set to where it should be.

Does anyone have this problem, as well? If so, how did you fix it? It seems perhaps there should be another turn of the wire on the gate, to keep it from pushing too far...or something on the plastic ramp-form that would keep the wire gate from going that far...

#1061 3 years ago

Thanks for replying, jaytrem & vid1900 — here are some photos.

First photo is how it should sit; after that, it's all in the "hyperextended" position.

Not sure it's clear from them, but it's not getting hung up on anything; it's the tension of the arm that pulls the leaf switch up to do the scoring that's causing it to get stuck in a hyperextended position. It seems to me that there should be another turn of the wire that I show in the last position, in such a way that the wire can't turn more than enough to just score.

IMG_9441 (resized).JPGIMG_9441 (resized).JPGIMG_9442 (resized).JPGIMG_9442 (resized).JPGIMG_9443 (resized).JPGIMG_9443 (resized).JPGIMG_9444 (resized).JPGIMG_9444 (resized).JPGIMG_9445 (resized).JPGIMG_9445 (resized).JPGIMG_9446 (resized).JPGIMG_9446 (resized).JPG
1 week later
#1071 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

^ In pic #2 it looks like you need to square up all your bracket bends, back to 90 degrees; especially the left upright in that pic.
Nothing should be able to rub against the bracket or switch lever arm, when pushed to either side.
Also, is the switch lever arm exiting in the center of the switch blade? Otherwise the angle will be wrong.[quoted image]

It's a wonderful thing, having this site to get another set of eyes on a problem. @vid1900, thank you for noticing that; that was indeed a big part of the problem. I've straightened it out, and the problem has resolved! The other thing I did, too, was to turn the arm 180 degrees where it meets the leaf switch, which also keeps the gate from over-extending.

Thank you!

3 weeks later
#1106 3 years ago
Quoted from OpSteel:

It only swings one way, where the ball can go toward the flipper. Marco carries it but I don't know the part number off the top of my head. It is listed in the manual.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-10744

A-10744

#1109 3 years ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

Thanks! Looks like currently out of stock, BUT great to see how it SHOULD look, lol.

Agreed.

Glad this discussion was going. I feel like a fool, though: I have the bracket on my game, but there's no gate there!

WHY DIDN'T I BOTHER TO INVESTIGATE IF A GATE SHOULD BE THERE.

...sooooooo many future drains will be prevented...

I think I'm going to try taking a page out of @jason43's book and fabricate a paper-clip replacement.

#1111 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Don't use a paperclip to make gates, use piano wire because it springs rather than deforms from use
Marco, Pinrestore, PBR, everyone sells short lengths of it

themoreyouknow (resized).pngthemoreyouknow (resized).png
#1113 3 years ago
Quoted from Jason43:

It was a couple years before I realized there was a gate where the ball ejects from the cycle jump/skeeball ramp.

...something else I learned from this thread a little while ago, ha! Pinside is the best, innit?

#1117 3 years ago

Um, weird one here: my game won’t turn off?

I was under the playfield, adjusting a pop and replacing the 200k switch, with the game off.

Turned the game on, to be sure that things seemed fine; all was in order. Went to turn it off...and it won’t turn off.

I unplugged it. Replaced the 8A fuse in the cabinet. Checked the physical switch, even re-soldered the connections on it. Switch still doesn’t turn off the game.

Um. What the hell?

#1119 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

When a switch finally breaks, it either fails in the OFF or ON position.
Yours failed ON
Time for a new switch

I thought, and hoped, this simple solution was the correct answer...but I was worried that in some sort of n00b stupidity, there was something else that could have gone wrong, that I just didn't know about.

New switch is easy enough! Thanks, @vid1900.

#1121 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If you want to **know**, check the switch with your meter.
If it beeps in both the ON and OFF positions, you know it has failed with the contacts closed.

EDIT: ...so it actually only beeps in one direction. Which means the switch...should work? Now I'm confused.

...and because I'm still pretty new to electronics stuff, if and when I get a new switch, is it ok to install one with a higher Amperage rating? It seems to me that'd be totally fine, from my limited knowledge of electronics, but again, still very frosh to this stuff and would hate to fry a game putting in a part that's not correct...

#1124 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Unsolder the switch and test it out of the circuit
Unplug the game before you do this.....

Yep, I did. Open in one switch direction; shorted in the other. But this HAS to be the problem...

Got another switch on order, they're super-cheap. I'll report back once it's replaced.

#1125 3 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Yep, I did. Open in one switch direction; shorted in the other. But this HAS to be the problem...
Got another switch on order, they're super-cheap. I'll report back once it's replaced.

Of course, as you called it, @vid1900, it was the switch! Game is fully operational again. Thank you!

...I'm still weirded out by that switch that tested fine but totally didn't work, but eh, my Comet is playable again, that's what matters!

Is there a Vid tip-jar somewhere? My friend, between your guides elsewhere on pinside, and seemingly popping up whenever I need an assist, I would gladly show my appreciation in a monetary way!

1 month later
#1144 3 years ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

Awesome!!
Corkscrew ramp replacement is available. Search for pinsider: Freeplay40

Freeplay40 is planning to soon make replacement Comet ramps, as well...you're probably looking for them at exactly the right time. Search for his thread on here, and let him know you're interested in those ramps! I actually think he might have the jump ramp, too...

1 week later
#1160 2 years ago
Quoted from Jason43:

Tube is always red. I believe the black ramp was a replacement you could buy at some point.

...do you mean, then, that the game shipped with an orange corkscrew? I'm curious!

#1162 2 years ago
Quoted from Jason43:

Yep. Don't believe any machine left the factory with a black ramp.

Thanks for the info—I learned something new today! I've never seen one with an orange ramp.

Stoked to hopefully get one from Freeplay40 when the center ramp is done!

5 months later
#1262 2 years ago

How best to get the cycle-jump outhole kicker to really KICK?

It seems to me it should kick the ball into the pops, right? Mine just kind of dribbles out (sometimes needing another hit, or two, when it doesn't get enough force from the first one!), and will 30-40% of the time just go directly down the right outlane.

I've changed the coil sleeve, and the solenoid is firing fine...any ideas?

2 months later
#1324 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

Anyone know where I can buy a Comet center ramp. Prefer with entrance flap and sticker. I have it in my cart at Marco but $200 seems steep (and no entry flap).
I ordered Wolfpac kit for Comet(red) and a Swords of Fury(blue). My soldering iron is ready!
Hard top arrived but wont tackle install until after Thanksgiving.
Thanks for the advice about the backglass. I'm still shopping for one. The restoration price at BGResto is a little steep until I get some comparisons.

Freeplay40 has all three ramp plastics for Comet, and they're fantastic. No sticker or steel entrance protector, tho. But you can find those elsewhere; you want Freeplay's ramps.

2 months later
#1364 2 years ago

Hey everyone, basic question that the manual doesn’t seem to answer for me (or I’m just reading it wrong).

I’d like to get new switches on my slings. The manual, under “switches,” points to the slings and indicates “B-8309.” However, nowhere else can I find reference to a b-8309 switch.

Do I just use a Williams SW-1A-114?

1 week later
#1369 2 years ago
Quoted from Calebmil:

Did you ever get a response on this? I'm running into similar issues.

Nope.

I recently picked up SW-1A-114s, and will try them out at some point. I’ll definitely report back when I do. The ones I have on there currently are serviceable, but not great.

#1371 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinbub:

Need a little help folks. I'm popping a solenoid fuse when I power up my Comet. This game was bullet proofed by my favorite system 9-11 repair guy. He was thorough but has other issues and isn't fixing pins currently. I'm trying to isolate this between a board issue and a short on the board.
Can anyone tell me what plugs into the playfield for the solenoids? I'd really like to get this solved but want to isolate a short on the board. I think it's a shorted wire to ground, under playfield. We've owned this Comet for around 30 years. It's my families favorite game. Sure would like to flip the snot out of it!

Is it popping when turning the machine on, or when starting a game? In my experience, I’ve had this happen when starting a game because a switch was too tight, and was making contact. I’d recommend checking any switches that fire a sol (the slings were my bugaboo).

But if it’s blowing the fuse when you turn the machine on, I don’t think that’s your issue…and I wouldn’t know where to look, sorry. Hope you figure it out!

#1374 2 years ago
Quoted from Calebmil:

Would this also explain sudden non-working of flippers after trying to adjust the center ramp exit switch and the left outside lane rollover switches? Both were registering properly when trying to trigger them with my fingers but when a ball rolled over them, they would not register. Bent the switches a little to make contact sooner but did not think they were touching... Put the game back together and now no flippers at all! I'm a relative newb so please excuse my ignorance!

I don't think so—but you may have accidentally locked on something else, that is blowing your flipper fuse. I just can't remember if the flippers are on the same fuse as the rest of the solenoids...

Definitely check fuses, and if the one that controls the flippers is blown, check the switches in the areas you were working, maybe you stuck something on that should be normally open. Amend that before you try out another fuse, so you don't just blow another one!

#1379 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

I bought a set of these like a decade ago when vid mentioned them and I use the hell out of them. Super useful everyone should have a set.

...I'm not even sure where to look for these, but sounds like I need a set! Can you point me in the right direction?

3 weeks later
#1396 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Missing a couple of wire gates.
1) inside the trough
2) cycle jump saucer exit (right of the pops)
Anyone have pictures or know which gates on Marcos these are?
Here's pictures of the gates Marcos has listed for Comet...
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Unsure which you mean by "inside the trough?"

The cycle jump saucer exit is part number 12-6565 (you've got the photo of it in your post). Check page 18 of the manual for a full list of the playfield parts; the part numbers for whatever other wireforms you're missing will be listed there.

As others have noted, if you can't find the wireform pre-made, bending wire to make the gate yourself isn't too bad. Marco sells a wire-bending jig for only $7 that I've personally used a few times for my own Comet. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-8593

Good luck!

2 weeks later
#1416 1 year ago
Quoted from mfdavis1:

Look for a spoon for a Jet Bumper on a Comet pin. Anyone know part number and where to order?
[quoted image]

If you order for Marco Specialties or PinballLife, the spoon you're going to get will be the right size. My understanding is they're basically standardized (though if you were putting it on a Bally, which you're not, you'd need to slightly enlarge the screw holes).

Links:
Marco Specialties https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-921
PinballLife https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-pop-bumper-spoon.html

#1419 1 year ago
Quoted from Philly76:

Today I punched my Admit One ticket and joined the club! Bought a nice machine with the usual bumps and bruises on the cab but overall really solid, paid $1700. Im one CYCLONE short of the trilogy.
Anyone got a link to the ducks and bunnys targets decals?

Is this the one that was on FBMarketplace? I almost tried to get it myself, what a great deal on this game. It looked to be in great shape, and man, Comet is just addictively fun. Welcome to the club, congrats on snagging a deal!

2 weeks later
#1438 1 year ago
Quoted from radium:

Make one. Marco sells the wire and a bending jig. I’d rather have the correct part but sometimes stuff is NLA.

Unfortunately, this isn't possible—it's not a wire piece. It's a metal ball guide.

The part number is I believe A-10712, and there don't seem to be any available searching on the internet...

If I were you, @mfdavis1, I'd reach out to Marcos about possibly recreating them (from listening to podcasts with the folks who run the business, sounds like they're receptive to requests from the community, in terms of sourcing parts).

And in the meantime, find a way to grind and smooth that metal piece so it's not gonna chew up your balls, and will feed correctly during play. If you'd like, I'm happy to pull the glass off my game, take the plastics off, and send you some clean photos of how it looks, how it should fit in a stock game, and what the exact measurements are. Feel free to message me if you'd like.

Maybe there's something comparable out there, but in terms of part number, this is the only game that I can find (via an admittedly quick search) that uses that part. Finding someone parting out a beater is always a possibility!

#1443 1 year ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

You can get one from Cliffy at PassionforPinball.Com[quoted image]

Amazing! Big ups to Cliffy!

1 year later
-1
#1676 10 months ago

Strange thing I could use some help with!

I'm having issues with displays 1, 2, and the ball # display (right-side two-digit display).

During attract mode, the high score should have a 3 in the millions position (don't judge me), but it shows up as a 7. There's a little flickering in the thousands position, too.

During test mode, all numbers show up fine, except for the 4. Displays 1, 2, and the right-side two-digit display show as 0.

I thought the issue was related to connection between my Pinscore displays, and the board, but I repinned everything. Connections look good.

Thoughts?

#1678 10 months ago
Quoted from ShuntyMcShunt:

lol i broke the ball gate wireform on the center ramp. it was bent and rusty. broke it trying to straighten it. does anyone else have this wire gate for sale other than Marco? its part #12-6658. $7 for the part plus like $8 shipping is wild.

A common fix is just to get the right gauge of wire, and bend it yourself! That's how I did this particular gate, personally.

...however, I will say that $7 doesn't sound too bad, to get the right part already pre-made. Especially when you'd likely buy the wire you're bending, along with the tool you need to bend it, from Marco as well. The shipping sucks, of course, so maybe it's worth holding off until you can combine it with a larger order

Good luck!

4 months later
#1736 5 months ago
Quoted from snextime:

I am looking for the "First ever 1 million pinball shot" sticker. If anybody has one for sale or can make me one please message me.
[quoted image]

Marco Specialties has 'em.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-540-GS-MIL

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