(Topic ID: 104189)

Comet Club - Admit One

By midcoastsurf

9 years ago


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  • 1,751 posts
  • 189 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Evlclown
  • Topic is favorited by 87 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider parkshow30.
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#315 6 years ago

I'm in!
Couple things I did to my Comet, added red comet LEDs to the million point shot to make it more noticeable when it's lit. Added a pinball RGB under cabinet kit. I prefer to play in the dark and the extra light from under the cabinet really helps my eyes, plus my daughter loves to change the colors on it! Super fun game and I never see us getting rid of it.

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4 months later
#396 5 years ago

So my wife tried to play Comet Yesterday and the ball wouldn't kick into the shooter lane. I took off the glass and and tested some of the game and none of the solenoids would work. Flippers worked fine. Did the solenoid test from the manual and none of them worked. Checked the F2 fuse and it was blown. Replaced the fuse and the right slingshot (referred to in the manual as the right kicker) is locked on. Turned the game off. Tested the solenoid for the right slingshot by disconnecting the wire and turning the game on and it is getting a constant 28 volts to it. Everything else on the game is working fine. Thinking I might need a new IC chip, the one in position U7? Or could be driver transistor Q77? Both? Any thoughts? Thanks.

#398 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Check if diode is blown

Diode is fine

#400 5 years ago

Driver transistor tests fine
Edit was testing some other things and now the driver transistor doesn't test fine.
Am going to replace it and see what happens

#402 5 years ago

Replaced driver transistor at Q77. Tests good now. Turned game on, right kicker didn't lock on so thought everything was good. First time the switch for the right kicker went on it kicked on and stayed on. Turned game off. Transistor still tests good. Not sure what to look at now
The pre driver tests good too, didn't have a spare one to replace it

#404 5 years ago

Coil locks on now as soon as I turn the game on regardless. Not sure what changed

#406 5 years ago

So I would need new leaf switches?

#408 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Unhook one wire to the stuck coil.
Take the ball out
Go into Switch Test.

Ok will try tomorrow morning

#411 5 years ago

Leaf switches have the same gap as the left kicker and are not shorting.
Switch test shows it is working.
In attract mode there is no power running to the left kicker, but there is 28 volts running to the right one. Going to replace the IC chip at U7 and see if that helps. Something is trying to turn the right kicker on at all times. Not going to be around to test anything else for a few days and then the IC chip will be here so hopefully that will fix it, if not it's back to the drawing board

#413 5 years ago

Yes the left kicker works perfectly. I guess that's what I don't get. When I measure at the left kicker in attract mode I'm not getting 28 volts but I am on the right.
Basically I ran out of time to do further testing and am out of town for almost a week. For $3 I figured why not give it a try. I didn't want to be gone then come home find out it's what needs replacing and then have to wait another week for the parts to come in.
Downtime for repairs is a bummer when you only have 2 machines. We play every night too. Guess it just means I need to buy more pins!!

#422 5 years ago

IC chip came in. Didn't change anything. Back to testing.

#434 5 years ago

Replaced transistor again. Game played perfect for about 30 to 40 seconds. The right slingshot worked fine when the ball hit, no problems at all. Thought everything was fixed and then there is a kind of building hum sound and the right slingshot locked on again! Bummer! Transistor tests fine right now. What else should I be testing?

#437 5 years ago

Another post in the locked on right slingshot saga...
After going through everything again I decided to isolate the leaf switches. Disconnected the orange/red wire to the switches and now I can turn the game on without it locking on. Thought ok it must be a problem with the switches. Took them out of the slings and it looks like it has been worked on before. One of the wires is not soldered on good and has a good amount sticking out. Thought maybe it was touching something and shorted. Trimmed the wire and resoldered. Now with the switches hanging down everything is fine. I can even activate the sling by manually touching them together. Put the switches back, made sure they were no touching and none of the wires were touching. Everything works!! Put it all back together and started a 2 player game with my Dad. I played the first ball for 2 minutes no problem, ball comes off the slings just like it should. On his turn the ball hit the right sling once and the GI lights dimmed, something that was happening a few months ago, and then it hit again and locked on. Went back though and tried everything I did before and no luck. Locked on no matter what. Really stumped and frustrated.

#441 5 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Is it possible that the sling arm itself is pinching a wire or rattling something nearby that causes a short? Or maybe there's a short elsewhere that happens upon vibration when the sling triggers? I'd look at every little thing in that quadrant of the playfield. Can you make it happen by thumping the playfield with a closed fist?

Sling arm is not pinching anything. Looking around the area I don't see anything out of place. Right now I actually can't get it to NOT lock on, it happens the second you turn the machine on. No idea why it worked for 2 minutes then stopped. Diode and transistor both test fine. IC chip is brand new. Pre driver tests fine.
Maybe something to do with the relay?

#443 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

So the coil is locking on BEFORE the MPU boots?
It locks before the screams come from the speaker?

Yes

#444 5 years ago

Went over Comet and tried some stuff for the locked on right sling today and still no luck. I'm going to create a separate thread for it so I don't keep clogging up the club thread.

#446 5 years ago

To close out my problem big thanks to vid. He reccomended changing the transistor, pre driver and diode all at once and sure enough problem solved!
Apparently changing them one at a time would not work.

#448 5 years ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Congrats! Nothing worse than a pesky problem that keeps you from playing your game. If you are ever gonna listen to anyone he is the guy to listen to. I've spent hours reading a bunch of his how to's.

Thanks! We had a ton of fun in the family arcade tonight. 4 back to back games with my 5 year old daughter and my wife playing by herself later hit the million shot for the 2nd or third time since we have owned it and got her best score ever.

3 months later
#577 5 years ago
Quoted from hwyhed:

I have a question for you boys/fans of Comet..I replaced the rubbers some time ago, and every so often it scores 100 points..sometimes when I hit either flipper, sometimes just on its own! It makes a sound similar to when you 1st hit the dummy..a ‘wha wha’ kinda sound..so what scores 100? I’ve looked at the slingshot, as well as the dummy, and all gaps appear fine and clean..I appreciate your time/thoughts on this..

There are 4 or 5 rubbers around the pop bumpers that have a leaf switch behind them. These all score 100 each and each make a slightly different sound. I'm guessing when you replaced the rubbers one of these is too close and is triggering during play. The dummy drop target scores 1,000.

1 year later
#943 3 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

How does everyone else’s kick-out from the ramp shot function?
I’ve replaced the coil sleeve, and it seems the solenoid works just fine, but I’ve always felt that the kick feels...weird. Like it SHOULD kick into the pops, but it just kind of dribbles down to the flippers.

Mine kicks into the pops every single time.
My kickout from the funhouse however barely moves the ball. They look like the same part and looking at the manual confirms they are. I have never played another Comet so not sure how they usually kickout from there

3 months later
#1045 3 years ago

So I had two problems with my Comet that were magically solved by switching to all LEDs.
First the GI which was the only part that had LEDs in it, would change from being dim to bright at random. Second, anytime I lit the playfield multiplier on ball 1 both the 2x and 5x inserts would light although it only awarded 2x.
Last night I put all warm white LEDs in the backbox which gave it a bright yet incandescent look and put all bright white in the inserts which really helped illuminate the playfield. Both problems are now gone. Game looks fantastic! No idea why this solved the problems but I sure am happy.

1 year later
#1529 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

How do you guys have the rules set?
I feel kinda weird getting two free balls just by making the corkscrew. I think I stacked up 4 free balls one ball. Maybe 7 free balls overall that game. I only have 1 free ball for score at 1,200,000. But I have both special and shoot again set to extra ball.
Seems too generous.
Perhaps I could start by maxing the max free balls per ball to 2? I wish that were possible just for the first two balls, then NOT on ball 3... where it's most fun to keep extending it.

Yes this game can be too easy to get extra balls on with certain settings. I have mine set for a max of 1 extra ball at a time so you can’t continually bank them. I also have my special to award points instead of extra ball.

2 weeks later
#1557 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

Can you share advice on how you've set up the scoring rules so that i's not 13 free balls a game?
Any other adjustments you like?

Adjustment 27 special change to award points
Adjustment 28 change reply award to credit or no award
Adjustment 41 change number of extra balls held at any time to 1. This is so you can’t stack extra balls.

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