Comet
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I don't see a Club for this game, so here we go. I just picked up a project Comet and was curious to see if anyone has done any mods to the front of the center ramp to prevent further cracking/breakage. What about mods to strengthen the cycle jump?
Quoted from kickback:but I use the tapered yellow rubbers (used on Hurricane) at the entrance to the ramp to try and prevent a direct hit to the weak spot, seems to work and makes the game a little harder....
Does the taper go from wide (top) to skinny (bottom)?
Quoted from Elevatorman:I just did a lot of work on my Comet!
Love it!
What LED set up do you have behind the backglass? Looks nice!
Quoted from JBK:If I find a replacement glass I'll go save this comet. The guy claims it was almost new when the glass got busted on route.
Why not try and save it now? The chances of you finding a Comet like this again are far less likely than finding a decent backglass or of someone reproducing it.
HELP: Can you someone please confirm whether this is the correct wiring/diode orientation for the right flipper lane change switch (#30) and the Right Drain Special (#31)? According to the switch matrix, the wire colors are correct, but whenever the lane change switch closes, the right drain special is awarded or #31 shows up on display. When I close the right drain special, nothing happens. This is both in game as well as switch test.
EDIT: Just realized all of row 7 is out...
Quoted from midcoastsurf:EDIT: Just realized all of row 7 is out...
Looks like U52 on the CPU could be the culprit.
In case anyone is in the market for a Comet, mine is now up for sale:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ft-comet-in-phoenix-az
Vid for the win! There is no decal on my drop target and my stand up targets are faded to white...should be a bit of an improvement 
Thanks!
Quoted from dmieczko:Mine does not have "COMET" below the door. I think that's pretty rare.
Mine has Comet below the coin door, but no fireballs/flames on each side. Maybe they were painted over?
DC1EB48C-DE5E-41BA-A84A-ABFC2C121FFB (resized).jpegQuoted from bowtech:She wants 400 for it. I am not afraid to fix it but I don't want to pump more money in it than I could sell it for when I'm tired of owning it. See pictures and let me know your thoughts.
Did you buy it? It’s a low risk project. Save the displays for last and focus on boards and playfield is my reco.
Quoted from Jason43:Trying to do something with the dead space at the top of the play field...
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With the mirror? Looks cool! Did you cut a mirror or is that reflective tape?
Quoted from bowtech:I have not yet. Still waiting to hear back from her. If I did but it shopping it and making sure it played was first thing. Displays last for sure. Just not sure what direction I would need to go with the not starting and board issue.
I would start with manually checking trough switch to see if it shows up in switch test and looking for loose wires. Can you add credits to the game?
I have the same issue on my Comet project. Hitting start does nothing. Haven’t dug in yet.
Quoted from Jason43:Found a place that sells mirrored plexi, cut to fit.
Awesome! Looks sharp.
Quoted from Malenko:I like it. I wonder if it'd be more theme appropriate if they could do the plexi like a funhouse mirror...but then ppl would complain it "looks wavy"
That's a really cool idea - maybe if there was a border around it that made it look like a framed mirror? Could even add a sign to the top of it.
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:Guess I missed your post. I can't believe i've never noticed that before. If anyone who has these on their machine could measure the letters and post the measurements that would be great. My wife has a vinyl machine and could cut the letters if I know how tall and wide they are.
I have "Comet" below my coin door but no side flames (not sure if painted over?)
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:That would be really cool now we just need someone who has those letters on their machine to do that.
I’ll get it done. Just need to remember to take a tape measure to my storage unit
Mine is missing the flames on the side of the coin door. Maybe painted over?
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:Guess I missed your post. I can't believe i've never noticed that before. If anyone who has these on their machine could measure the letters and post the measurements that would be great. My wife has a vinyl machine and could cut the letters if I know how tall and wide they are.
0870E40D-EDDF-4121-BDA0-ACCAFB72AD0F (resized).jpeg1E8E62D7-B4B2-4251-A428-335934F7F560 (resized).jpegB6E5198A-59C3-4D22-A50E-A3906C09338D (resized).jpegQuoted from yaksplat:If you move the ruler completely out of the way of the letters, like just above. I can make an exact drawing.
How’s this?
57F06928-4578-4C77-BE9C-F13E06F6FC05 (resized).jpegQuoted from PinDeLaPin:That bottom plate was just something that an operator probably fabricated to keep people from busting out the bottom and stealing the coinbox. Although who knows there seems to be quite a few variations of how this game was made so maybe yours came that way. I do know my machine does not have that metal plate underneath that area.
Good to know! I'll rip it off and sand down the entire bottom of the cab then.
Quoted from jaytrem:Wow, that's a nice looking one, congrats! No Hardtop needed there. Enjoy!
Agree, one of the nicest original playfields I've seen on a Comet.
Quoted from yaksplat:so here's a scale drawing of the letters. If anyone wants to try printing it out, send me a PM and let me know what format you need. Right now it's an autocad dwg, but i can convert it to pdf or dxf.
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Awesome! Here’s a better pic of the front of the cab cleaned up. You can see mine had flames on it at one point and someone sprayed them black.
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Quoted from vid1900:The new repro ramps will probably have a thin metal flap, that will give a smoother transition than the metal threshold on the OEM ramp - stay tuned
Is Freeplay40 making these or someone else? (I know he has the corkscrew and cycle jump which look incredible). I have seen new main ramps on restorations, but guessing they are NOS ramps? Curious if anyone has made a different metal flap for the main ramp for a smooth transition?
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:Finally got around to having my wife make me the new letters on her vinyl machine. I'm really happy with how it turned out. Thanks again to yaksplat for scaling the letters and to midcoastsurf for posting the pic of his.
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Awesome! I think it looks way better with “Comet” at the bottom.
For those running LED's in the inserts, are you using non-ghosting LED's, adding resistors to every socket, or another solution? I have Comet 2SMD sunlight white in my inserts and GI and love them, but the inserts/controlled lamps ghost/flicker.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Yep the same I have Comet 2smd's and the ghosting isn't that bad.
Hmm, all of my inserts that are supposed to be lit solid (ie. bonus arrow and circle inserts, are flashing rapidly during gameplay). I'll take a video. I need to replace the power cord with a grounded one and re-flow header pins on the boards (just picked up this machine recently), not sure if any of that could contribute to the issue.
Quoted from vid1900:Do the "game over" lights flash rapidly?
Yes, the game over and highest score bulbs (still incandescent) flash rapidly during attract mode.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Definitely not what mines looks like. Have you rebuilt your power supply?
Not yet. Just picked up this project.
Trying to figure out why the dunk the dummy drop target won't reset. It always stays down. The switch below it is working as the machine scores 1,000 points and he starts yelling at you. If I manually raise the drop target and start a game, no points awarded and no taunting. If I ground Q48 on the CPU/Driver board, the coil fires fine and the drop target stays up. So the coil works, the switch is working, and the transistor to the coil path is fine. What am I missing? Potential chip issue?
Quoted from Pablito350:Check to see if the little tab is still on the reset plate.
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In the above pic you can see that the tab is missing, and that'll cause the drop target to never reset although the coil fires.
-Paul
I will check tomorrow. But the target resets fine if I ground the transistor to fire the coil. I’m guessing that tab is there.
Quoted from vid1900:If the target is down, and the coil fires but does not bring it up - the tab is missing
The coil does not fire during gameplay, only if I ground the Q48 transistor. The drop target resets fine and stays up if I ground the transistor manually. It’s like the machine is not communicating with the coil to reset it during a game. It does not fire when game is turned on or when a game is started.
Quoted from vid1900:If it does not fire when the game is turned on (or in Coil Test) then the transistor is probably fried open.
Grounding the transistor tab shows that the WIRING itself is good, so you have eliminated that.
If you want a shotgun fix, replace the Q48 transistor (tp102) and the Q44 pre transistor next to it (2n4401)
Great tips! Of course now, it’s working fine (must have felt imminent surgery coming, lol).
I’ll eventually take the board out and resolder the header pins to all connectors. I’ll also test those two transistors with my DMM. Thanks!
Here’s my right flipper assembly. Looks like it needs a rebuild. That’s a bunch of duct tape and could explain why I can’t make it all the way around the corkscrew ramp.
For flipper rebuilds, are people doing upgrades on this style flipper mech or just replacing parts?
51E78B68-671C-4B9C-86E6-9E5F27C088A3 (resized).jpegB22990DA-DA11-4BC4-8E5C-2507F162D588 (resized).jpegQuoted from vid1900:Yep, that machine needs a full upgrade and rebuild
Now if I can just find a guide to flipper rebuilds... 
Looks like the Sys 11 to Fliptronic section within your guide is the best route:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers#post-284661
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Definitely not what mines looks like. Have you rebuilt your power supply?
I just replaced all the capacitors on the power supply/driver board. No difference in the LEDs blinking rapidly. Possibly a grounding issue?
My lower left ball gate is mangled and I'm trying to figure out what it should look like. I believe it should only open one way, with ball traveling towards the left flipper, correct? The ball was getting stuck a lot if the gate opened to the left (ie. trying to trap a ball, ball would roll up to the gate and get stuck halfway under the gate).
Any pics of the proper angle of the top wires as well as the gate itself?
Quoted from Jason43:Here's mine. I just fabricated it out of a thick paperclip
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Great pic! Does the gate swing both ways? Or does the left/bottom hinge/wire prevent the gate from swinging to the left?
Quoted from Jason43:It was a couple years before I realized there was a gate where the ball ejects from the cycle jump/skeeball ramp.
Wait....what?! I love collecting the cycle ramp from the pops. Hmmmmm. Just looked and the gate assembly is completely missing.
The cycle jump gate is part#A-10827 for those coming to this thread wondering. Looks like Marco is currently out of stock on both gates I need.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=a-10827
Quoted from Jason43:Actually, iirc, I went back and re-did the gate with heavy gauge spinner bait wire. It's held up very well.
You sure you aren't thinking of Fish Tales?
Ground braid question. I was under the impression that the ground prong on the power cord should have continuity to any ground braid or panel (Ie. Where boards are secured) in the game.
I have continuity between the ground prong and the ground braid in the bottom cabinet, but not the playfield braid where the lighting taps into.
Where does your playfield tie into ground? Is it via a long ground braid to the braid in the bottom of the cabinet?
Quoted from cjsteve:Hi there, new to pinside, I will join the Comet Club. Like many others I will say that Comet is the machine that really got me started in pinball as a kid. I ended up buying one while I was in high school and have kept it ever since. It has been in storage for over 20 years, and I just recently brought it home. At this point I am working on getting it back to life. It is currently working just fine, has a cracked corkscrew and comet ramp. There are a few lights that stay on when they should be off. Hopefully I can get that figured out. It is only 3 of the lights. 4x bonus, all scores 5x, and the 6 of 1986 at the top. Any hints on the light issue would be greatly appreciated.
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Awesome!!
Corkscrew ramp replacement is available. Search for pinsider: Freeplay40
Quoted from Freeplay40:Yup....
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GORGEOUS!!!
Just ordered the corkscrew and red jump ramp. Can't wait to rebuild the flippers and let 'er fly!
FIXED! (Thanks to Gavin)
Still chasing this fast flicker issue when lights should be lit solid. Happens with incandescents and LED (regular and non-ghosting from Comet and Pinball Life).
Is this a board issue? Happens with all controlled insert lights. Looking at YouTube vids, these bulbs should stay lit solid when a target is hit (Ie. Ducks or Rabbits).
Solve: screws on top of large capacitor in back box were loose. Tightened them up and strobing disappeared.
Quoted from TPMARTIN:That is what I did I used the Dremel and then went back with small screws/washers and nuts. Once I put the new Million Sticker on you'll never notice.
Thanks for your response.
Tim
Good point about the Million sticker. Just realized I don't have this sticker, but will pick one up as I'll need to cover the screw heads.
Quoted from Jason43:There's a couple interesting things in that game. I like the repurposed transparent red flipper switch on top of the corkscrew ramp tube.
Red flipper switch? The red tube in the middle that lights up?
tube (resized).PNGQuoted from Jason43:[quoted image]
Is this for real? And I thought the lockdown bar button on some Stern games was useless. Is this for troubleshooting the game? lol
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:I got the comet ramp installed now and with the 3 new ramps it's looking pretty good.[quoted image][quoted image
Looks awesome! I have the orange corkscrew and red cycle jump ramp as well, but still need to install them both. Following...
Quoted from radium:That’s the one.
Thanks! Any idea what kind the two posts are? (on each side that support the ball gate)
Quoted from radium:I think it’s this one…
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4036-1
I have my game apart and went and looked. It is definitely a 8-32 thread on the bottom. You will need a #8 washer and kep nut also.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
THANK YOU! Are you in the middle of a hard top restore?
Quoted from 80spit:Just finished this one with a new hardtop and new plastic set, rebuilt flippers and pop bumpers
Man this thing plays like greased lightning now
Planning on putting it up for sale soon
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Nice! How long do you estimate the hardtop process took start to finish?
Quoted from wamonkey:Good luck with the sale - did the same thing mine sold local yesterday 08/02. He had to finish a few things but we were both happy.
I remember reading your ad. I think it was a great deal given the amount of new parts alone (excluding any labor).
Quoted from rrss:I agree on the dubious print quality on some of the Planetary repro backglasses. A while back I bought a Alien Poker glass and I was very disappointed with it. The black color was so thin you could see white specs all through it, it looked more grayish than pure black. Plus the black had vertical strips all throughout (see pic).
I emailed Planetary some pics and they said they were aware of issues on the Alien Poker glass and offered a return or a partial refund if I kept it. I was a bit perplexed as to why they would sell it at full price knowing there were issues with it, but I think we know the answer to that question.
My Comet has a really faded backglass, but I will wait to see some feedback on this run before getting one for myself.
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I’m no print expert, but feel like they need 2-3 hits of black. That’s frustrating.
Quoted from PogoFX:How is this pin ranked so low?
I picked up Comet a couple of months ago along with Space Shuttle. My first two pins. I wasn't even supposed to keep Comet as I got it for someone else. Well, they never returned my calls or text so I could set up delivery. After I played a few games, I knew it wasn't going anywhere. I love it just as much as Shuttle. The timing of the drains can be brutal sometimes, but I always feel like I'm one or two shots away from having an epic score. And that keeps me coming back. And yes, I like that "annoying" music . . . even though it gets stuck in my head some days.
I'm not good player and I'm certainly not an expert, but this pin seems grossly underrated to me. I'll be adding my rating shortly and I'll bet there are a few folks out there that may need to revisit theirs. Hey Turkey, give Comet some love.
100%. I am now on my 3rd Comet (slight project) and vowed to never sell this one. While it doesn't have multi-ball, I think the rule set and the unique shots/ramps more than make up for it. Timing those 1984 lanes with your 3rd ball to light the million point shot...just a classic.
Quoted from remf:Question regarding the hardtops. Do you think it will help or hurt the value? My playfield has some planking and is covered with Mylar to protect it so I’m strongly considering biting the bullet and buying one.
Every original Comet playfield I've seen has planking. All 3 of my Comets have also had 2/3 mylar up the playfield. Curious to see a pic of your playfield.
Quoted from mfdavis1:Felt like this has been asked before so forgive me for the duplicate post if it has. I could not find the thread.
Is it normal for the GI lights to blink when the ball in play hits the right slingshot (near the right flipper)? If not any suggestions?
My game is not fully functioning, but based on Youtube gameplay vids, it should not be blinking.
Try closing each each switch on the slingshot by hand - do they both trigger the GI blink? I wonder if it's the slingshot coil vibration and a cold solder joint in that area of the GI that is triggering the blinking?
Quoted from mikemoorman:I have a friend that is having issues with his Comet.
During gameplay (single player game) it will add players and randomly add score to other players while playing Ball 1 Player 1.
Voltages to CPU are rock solid at 4.98VDC.
I tested all the switches and all work and register as they should to the correct switch number. I also started a game and flipped the flippers repeatedly with the ball in the shooter lane to see if I could replicate random scores but no anomalies.
Sometimes you can get through a couple of balls before it starts being possessed.
There is no battery damage.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks in advance - Mike
Hey Mike - any switches showing as closed in switch test? (other than ball trough if there's a ball in there). Adding scores to players not playing is a strange one.
Quoted from mikemoorman:No switches were showing closed during switch test and every switch registered normally. Thanks for the response.
Even when knocking the machine around a bit? (hitting side/front of cabinet)
Quoted from mikemoorman:Correct. I can't tell is if it adding the appropriate points to player 2's score or not when in a game. I will take the glass off and manually hit switches that I know the value of to see it is is adding the correct amount.
So goofy.
If you can narrow down the point values being added, you can narrow down the associated switches that could be causing the issue.
Quoted from ShuntyMcShunt:hey guys! i'm going to be replacing my cracked center ramp with a FreePlay40 repro. my question is about the metal piece at the ramp entrance. Other machines i have seen have a larger more protective piece on the ramp entrance than mine. attached are a few images. one is of my machine with the orange post rubber and the small metal piece and the others with the grey post rubbers are my friends machine that has the larger metal piece. i wasn't sure exactly what it is called but when i get the new ramp id love to change out this piece as well. It seems more protective. currently my ball hits the glass all the time. any help identifying this pieces name or where to source it is greatly appreciated.
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Hey neighbor, love the orange post rubber! One thing to check is that the two ramp entrance posts are vertical. I'm in the process of wood filling the left hole on my Comet because the post is at an angle allowing the ball to hit the left ramp entrance sidewall. This was a result of a loose post.
Quoted from vid1900:The corrosion will continue until it reaches the circuit board.
Clean it with toilet bowl cleaner, or just snip the entire holder off the board
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid
+1 to removing the issue and relocating a new battery holder off the board. IMO, easier and the solution lasts much longer.
Quoted from remf:Thanks! I’ve had this game for a long time with no issue so do you think it would be best to get a new board as well?
Are you capable of basic board work? If the rest of the board is good and you are up for a project, I would consider rebuilding the board (at a minimum, replace capacitors. You could also do header pins, connectors that go to the header pins, and any other bulletproof mods for this board. Search System 9 bulletproofing.)
For this specific burned connector situation, depending how bad the burn is on the board I would remove the connector on the board and solder two thick wires that go to a new molex a few inches off the board. I would then re-pin the wires going to that connector with a new connector. Always make sure you are replacing both header pins and corresponding connectors to reduce heat buildup.
Alternative is a new board, but you'd still want to re-do your connectors that plug into the new board IMO.
Quoted from bdash:New Comet owner here!
A few months ago my wife was telling me all about the pinball machine her family had when she was a kid in the early 90s. After a little research, we eventually realized it had been a Comet. She made a few phone calls and we found that after her parents had parted with it it had been passed between family friends for a while before eventually ending up in the back of a barn at a walnut orchard. And there it sat for around 10 years.
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Having sat in a barn for a decade, with minimal maintenance prior to that, the machine was not in the best shape. The playfield was worn and covered in grime. The alkaline batteries hadn't been removed before it was put into storage so one corner of the MPU board was corroded. The rubber rings were filthy, brittle and falling apart. Ramps were cracked, and plastics were warped or missing. And those were just the issues that were obvious without turning it on!
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Repairing the PCB was first order of business since that would let me determine what else on the game needs work. I've done some electronics repair work before, but nothing quite like this.
I ended up desoldering most of the passives in the power input and sound section of the MPU since they had signs of corrision. The corrosion on the PCB itself was mostly limited to the immediate vicinity of the batteries. I removed that with fine-grit sandpaper and then installed fresh components. Rather than reinstalling batteries I swapped the RAM out for NVRAM.
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Once the PCB was in good shape I was finally able to power the machine on. It booted up without any drama (phew!) and I was able to use game diagnostics to verify that the playfield electronics were in good shape (modulo the few dozen burnt-out lamps).
Next came the clean up of the playfield. This was all entirely new to me, so I roped in my 7yo daughter to help. The playfield itself was dirty but not as bad as I'd first thought, though the paint had worn away in a few high-traffic areas. There's a lot of planking, which I suppose is to be expected after being stored in an unheated barn for a decade, and some paint is flaking off behind the right flipper.
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While replacing burnt-out / missing lamps on the playfield I noticed that none of the general illumination lamps appeared to be working. I probed around with a multimeter for longer than I'd care to admit, then thought to check their connection to the power supply. Low and behold, a pin had broken off the connector. The lights work much better now that they're getting power!
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We installed a playfield protector to limit future damage to the worn and flaking areas, then replaced broken posts, installed fresh rubbers, new plastics, ramps and decals. It's finally starting to look like a real pinball machine!
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There's a few odds and ends left to do before I declare it done and put the glass back on. The player four score display doesn't work. The Dummy drop target adjustment bracket broke at some point so the target sits below the playfield when dropped, perfect to hang up the ball. The flippers are a little loose and probably need to be rebuilt. I'm sure I'll notice more things the more time I spend with it.
But the important part is that we rescued my wife's childhood pinball machine and restored it to working order! We've put a few dozen games on it in the last few days, and my wife is already plotting which pin we should pick up next
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Such a cool story and love that you documented it from the beginning.
Quoted from RandyW:I have a Comet at a client's home, that the switches under the vortex ramp keep coming apart and hanging limp. I've looked and not been able to find the assembly available anywhere. Are there any good fixes for them?
Pictures?
Quoted from RandyW:I don’t have a picture atm. But the three switches under the vortex ramp. There is one for each hole. Their switch arms keep falling off.
You sure this is a Comet? Sounds like Pinbot? (vortex ramp with holes/switches)
Quoted from Squeakman:I may be entering this club and am wondering how hard it would be to find a restored playfield or if anyone has ever made repro playfields for Comet. I’ve never seen one. I am not interested in a hardtop so not an option for me.
Is the game your looking at pretty beat? Playfield pic?
Quoted from interconnect:Thanks! Got it set up. Needs some work, but overall in pretty darn condition. Going to fully restore this one.
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IMO, the best one-ball game from the 80's. I've owned it three times now and this time it's not leaving. Absolutely worthy of a restore!
Quoted from interconnect:Yeah, I can’t wait. I have a Space Shuttle (also System 9) and it’s my favorite game. I’ve played Comet before, but not a nice, restored one. It didn’t play the greatest, but I could tell it’s a really awesome game. Can’t wait to get it all fixed up proper and play it.
The Sys 9 trinity is awesome. Sorcerer is the game that got me hooked when I was kid, but for some reason I've never owned it. But have owned Comet and Space Shuttle multiple times. Keep us posted!
Quoted from Jason43:Airballs smacking against the glass are 100% part of the gameplay. Don't try to correct.
The same reason you don't try and fix the "issue" on insanity falls ramp of Whitewater. Do they replicate these sounds on virtual pinball...
Quoted from interconnect:Anyone know if there's anywhere that sells the slingshot arms? Marco and Action are out of stock. Mine are worn pretty bad. I'm doing a rebuild of them and cleaning and replacing all the components; plunger and link, mounting bracket, spring, coil sleeve, etc. I think the arm at the pivot joint is worn so looking to replace it but can't find them anywhere. Thanks.
What's the part #? Would this work?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-bumper-crank-assembly.html
Quoted from bdash:The text placement on the decals from Marcos isn't as bad as the website listing makes it look. It is close to the original, but not identical.
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Personally, I don't like how crisp and dark the black text is. I like the wear look of the original / Vid1900 image as it better matches the border design distressed look.
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Naperville, IL
