Here's mine. I just fabricated it out of a thick paperclip

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How can I get these ramps?

Nope, one way. The ball only passes through from the left. The end of the wire in the right hits the chrome piece and stops it from moving in the opposite direction

It only swings one way, where the ball can go toward the flipper. Marco carries it but I don't know the part number off the top of my head. It is listed in the manual.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-10744

A-10744

send a PM to freeplay40...

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/freeplay40

Center ramp should be available from him soon too. Get your name on the list if you want one.

Agreed.

Glad this discussion was going. I feel like a fool, though: I have the bracket on my game, but there's no gate there!

WHY DIDN'T I BOTHER TO INVESTIGATE IF A GATE SHOULD BE THERE.

...sooooooo many future drains will be prevented...

I think I'm going to try taking a page out of @jason43's book and fabricate a paper-clip replacement.

Don't use a paperclip to make gates, use piano wire because it springs rather than deforms from use

Marco, Pinrestore, PBR, everyone sells short lengths of it

It was a couple years before I realized there was a gate where the ball ejects from the cycle jump/skeeball ramp.

...something else I learned from this thread a little while ago, ha! Pinside is the best, innit?

Actually, iirc, I went back and re-did the gate with heavy gauge spinner bait wire. It's held up very well.

Um, weird one here: my game won’t turn off?

I was under the playfield, adjusting a pop and replacing the 200k switch, with the game off.

Turned the game on, to be sure that things seemed fine; all was in order. Went to turn it off...and it won’t turn off.

I unplugged it. Replaced the 8A fuse in the cabinet. Checked the physical switch, even re-soldered the connections on it. Switch still doesn’t turn off the game.

Um. What the hell?

When a switch finally breaks, it either fails in the OFF or ON position.

Yours failed ON

Time for a new switch

I thought, and hoped, this simple solution was the correct answer...but I was worried that in some sort of n00b stupidity, there was something else that could have gone wrong, that I just didn't know about.

New switch is easy enough! Thanks, @vid1900.

If you want to **know**, check the switch with your meter.

If it beeps in both the ON and OFF positions, you know it has failed with the contacts closed.

EDIT: ...so it actually only beeps in one direction. Which means the switch...should work? Now I'm confused.

...and because I'm still pretty new to electronics stuff, if and when I get a new switch, is it ok to install one with a higher Amperage rating? It seems to me that'd be totally fine, from my limited knowledge of electronics, but again, still very frosh to this stuff and would hate to fry a game putting in a part that's not correct...

Higher amperage is good (if you are only drawing 4 amps and your switch is rated for 20 amps, the switch will last forever)

Higher voltage is good (same thing, if switch is rated for 240vac and you are using it on a 120v circuit, that's great)

Many toggle switches are made for automotive use and are only rated for 36vdc, so dont use those by accident

Unsolder the switch and test it out of the circuit

Unplug the game before you do this.....

Yep, I did. Open in one switch direction; shorted in the other. But this HAS to be the problem...

Got another switch on order, they're super-cheap. I'll report back once it's replaced.

Of course, as you called it, @vid1900, it was the switch! Game is fully operational again. Thank you!

...I'm still weirded out by that switch that tested fine but totally didn't work, but eh, my Comet is playable again, that's what matters!

Is there a Vid tip-jar somewhere? My friend, between your guides elsewhere on pinside, and seemingly popping up whenever I need an assist, I would gladly show my appreciation in a monetary way!

It connects in the base of the head. There is a stud there and it connects with a wingnut. Should be a ground that is encased in a plastic tube to insulate it coming from the playfield.

After Comet Hardtop install/rebuild, ball occasionally traps in the pocket behind Dunk the Dummy, due to the Hardtop added thickness. Ball prevents drop target reset, as the ball is sitting upon drop target top surface.

I am considering a bevel on Hardtop edge in front of target. Also considered a slight bevel on drop target top edge.

Anyone else encountered this, and if so, what is your fix?

I don't recall having that issue with mine. Could you glue a flat piece of plastic to the top of the target to make it level with the playfield?

raise the target. There's an adjustable bracket at the bottom that controls the height.

Can anyone confirm the correct target color and replacement part number for the standup target behind the dunk the dummy drop target? Manual says A-9618 for standup target assembly. The target in my game is white. Thanks

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Mine is the red w/white lines bullseye target, but who knows if that is original or not...
download (resized).jpg

Oh and hello, yes I'm in the club! Picked up my Comet about 18 months ago. Has a hardtop. I had to reverse/correct a bunch of hacks/wrong/failed fixes. Installed Mosfets, nvram, restored coin door and now I have a beautiful Comet that plays and looks great! I'd still like to do some cab fixes touchups but maybe down the road I'll get to them...

Bullseye is correct.

Thanks, I’ll have to try and find a bullseye target. Anyone know the correct part #? I’ll have to email pinball resource and see if he has any.

WLL-17-1016

http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stand-up-target-faces-vids-guide#post-2484785

Just finishing putting my Comet back together. The Hardtop turned out nice. I bought a CPR plastics set but I’m not sure where this one small green plastic goes? It’s similar to the green one beside the cycle jump ramp. Is it supposed to stack on top of that other green one?

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Looks like they might have thown in a bonus with a missing hole. It does not stack. Be sure to hold to that, that plastic is often broken.

Thanks, yeah not sure why it’s missing a hole. I’ll keep it as a spare.

If anyone needs an old back glass I have one in Newburgh ny ( local pick up only)

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I saw that score of your earlier and wish I was closer!

Wish I was closer. Mine is pretty bad looking.

Hi there, new to pinside, I will join the Comet Club. Like many others I will say that Comet is the machine that really got me started in pinball as a kid. I ended up buying one while I was in high school and have kept it ever since. It has been in storage for over 20 years, and I just recently brought it home. At this point I am working on getting it back to life. It is currently working just fine, has a cracked corkscrew and comet ramp. There are a few lights that stay on when they should be off. Hopefully I can get that figured out. It is only 3 of the lights. 4x bonus, all scores 5x, and the 6 of 1986 at the top. Any hints on the light issue would be greatly appreciated.

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Freeplay40 is planning to soon make replacement Comet ramps, as well...you're probably looking for them at exactly the right time. Search for his thread on here, and let him know you're interested in those ramps! I actually think he might have the jump ramp, too...

Yup....

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Already got on the list for the comet ramp and ordered the corkscrew!

SOLVED!!!! Thanks to FreePlay40 for answering my question when I messaged him direct. Great Seller and even better guy!

I bought a new Cycle Jump Ramp from FreePlay40 and it looks great, one question I had was does anyone have any advice on how to remove the rivets from the back of the original ramp that holds the Million Point display?

Also any suggestions how to reattach after I get the rivets out without having a rivet gun?

Thanks,

Tim

#comet

I used a sanding stone on my dremel and carefully filed awhile the rivet heads and the sign popped right off. Without a rivet gun, I suppose you could use a couple small bolts with nylon lock nuts on the back. Purists will scream but it should work just fine.