(Topic ID: 104189)

Comet Club - Admit One


By midcoastsurf

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,093 posts
  • 132 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by ClarkGriswold
  • Topic is favorited by 64 Pinsiders

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There are 1093 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 22.
#1051 35 days ago

Do the "game over" lights flash rapidly?

#1052 35 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Do the "game over" lights flash rapidly?

Yes, the game over and highest score bulbs (still incandescent) flash rapidly during attract mode.

#1054 35 days ago

Definitely not what mines looks like. Have you rebuilt your power supply?

#1055 35 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Definitely not what mines looks like. Have you rebuilt your power supply?

Not yet. Just picked up this project.

#1056 34 days ago

I saw these Bar stools at Harbor Freight for only $35 and didn't realize how nice they look in front of my Comet. I thought I'd share this in case anyone else wants one. They are only in stores now and will be available online in January.

image001 (resized).jpg

#1057 32 days ago

When I bought my Comet from an estate sale, the machine was being serviced by a guy who stuck his company sticker on the Williams Logo on the Apron. I attempted to remove this without damage, but it peeled most of the W off. I've been searching for Williams System 9 Apron decals to no avail. I'm looking at the system 11 decals and think I can use that for the W, but I'm not sure if the size is the same. Does anyone know?

Comet (resized).jpgFull Apron (resized).jpg
#1058 28 days ago

Weird issue that I'm wondering if anyone else has run into...

On my game, the wire and switch that triggers when the ball drops from the center-ramp will sometimes get pushed *too far* by the way the ball rolls out, and will be stuck in that extended position. It will only become un-stuck by the next shot from the shooter lane, when it'll (usually) re-set to where it should be.

Does anyone have this problem, as well? If so, how did you fix it? It seems perhaps there should be another turn of the wire on the gate, to keep it from pushing too far...or something on the plastic ramp-form that would keep the wire gate from going that far...

#1059 28 days ago

I recall mine doing thay a couple times when I first got it. Can't remember what (if anything) I did to fix it. Has never happened since I put on the hardtop. Is your exit hole broken at all?

#1060 28 days ago

Is it getting hung up on the wrong size screw head, or....

Pics needed of when it's stuck

#1061 28 days ago

Thanks for replying, jaytrem & vid1900 — here are some photos.

First photo is how it should sit; after that, it's all in the "hyperextended" position.

Not sure it's clear from them, but it's not getting hung up on anything; it's the tension of the arm that pulls the leaf switch up to do the scoring that's causing it to get stuck in a hyperextended position. It seems to me that there should be another turn of the wire that I show in the last position, in such a way that the wire can't turn more than enough to just score.

IMG_9441 (resized).JPGIMG_9442 (resized).JPGIMG_9443 (resized).JPGIMG_9444 (resized).JPGIMG_9445 (resized).JPGIMG_9446 (resized).JPG
#1062 28 days ago

^ In pic #2 it looks like you need to square up all your bracket bends, back to 90 degrees; especially the left upright in that pic.

Nothing should be able to rub against the bracket or switch lever arm, when pushed to either side.

Also, is the switch lever arm exiting in the center of the switch blade? Otherwise the angle will be wrong.

IMG_20201230_150743 (resized).jpg
#1063 27 days ago

Comet owners, don't forget that today is your last day to get a new set of plastics from CPR for only $119

Use coupon code PLASTICS2020

This was out of stock for MANY years

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/comet/

plas-comt (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1064 18 days ago

I need a new leaf switch for my right flipper. The one I need is mounted to the cabinet and activated by the flipper button. NOT the eos switch at the flipper assembly. I looked in my owners/parts manual and I can't find a part number. I ordered by application without a part number through Marco and the switch they sent is incorrect. Can anybody help?

#1065 18 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Comet owners, don't forget that today is your last day to get a new set of plastics from CPR for only $119
Use coupon code PLASTICS2020
This was out of stock for MANY years
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/comet/[quoted image]

I wish someone would offer just the key fobs seperately. Specifically the fire ball one. That is a nice price for a set,( more so on sale), especially since they've been out of stock so long. I'd buy a set but I already have a complete spare set and can't justify it just for the fobs.

#1066 18 days ago

i just need the black billy the clown plastic on the right side of the playfield if anyone has a spare

#1067 18 days ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

i just need the black billy the clown plastic on the right side of the playfield if anyone has a spare

Is yours broken,missing or warped?

#1068 18 days ago
Quoted from Pinbub:

Is yours broken,missing or warped?

Billy is missing his foot lol
Do you have a spare?

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#1069 18 days ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

Billy is missing his foot lol
Do you have a spare?
[quoted image]

Let me look. I had at least one that was warped. I was going to use it to practice flattening them. I'll let you know.

#1070 18 days ago
Quoted from Pinbub:

Let me look. I had at least one that was warped. I was going to use it to practice flattening them. I'll let you know.

Ok sounds good. Thanks

#1071 15 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

^ In pic #2 it looks like you need to square up all your bracket bends, back to 90 degrees; especially the left upright in that pic.
Nothing should be able to rub against the bracket or switch lever arm, when pushed to either side.
Also, is the switch lever arm exiting in the center of the switch blade? Otherwise the angle will be wrong.[quoted image]

It's a wonderful thing, having this site to get another set of eyes on a problem. vid1900, thank you for noticing that; that was indeed a big part of the problem. I've straightened it out, and the problem has resolved! The other thing I did, too, was to turn the arm 180 degrees where it meets the leaf switch, which also keeps the gate from over-extending.

Thank you!

#1072 15 days ago

I'm joining the COMET Club! This is the pinball that got me started. I'm now on my 3rd Comet pinball and I finally have one that is in really nice condition. Minus the center ramp, which is a disaster. I read on another thread that someone was going to start making these and I'm hoping to get a new one when/if they make them.

Until that day comes, if it does. I'm wondering if anyone here has a spare one that I could purchase? If not, I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how to correct the ramp I have (see picture). The end of my center ramp is mostly gone and the ball goes too far and doesn't register the switch. I've run a wire up the hole and over to force the ball to stop and drop over the switch to register completion of the ramp. I'm afraid that this is not great for the balls and could end up doing more harm than good.

Anyways - anyone have any suggestions?

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#1073 14 days ago
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:

The end of my center ramp is mostly gone

The original Comet center ramp was formed on a female mold. With vacuum forming, the plastic thins as it is stretched down into the ramp. Many ramps made with female molds that have a drop hole at the end of the ramp fail. At the end of the ramp like this one, the plastic is stretched in two directions exasperating the issue. What I have seen with these damaged ramps is that plastic that began as 1/8" before the forming ends up to be about 1/32" thick around the drop hole. When I make this new ramp I will reverse mold it on a male mold. The top rim of the ramp will no longer be curved over...it will be flat. This reverse forming will put the thickest plastic at the bottom of the ramp (Uh, where the ball is most dangerous).

This was also an issue on a Transporter ramp. See attached photo to demonstrate the end result of a male mold (Left in photo) vs an original (right in photo). The ramp will be further strengthened by using .150" plastic vs the original .125".

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#1074 14 days ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

The original Comet center ramp was formed on a female mold. With vacuum forming, the plastic thins as it is stretched down into the ramp. Many ramps made with female molds that have a drop hole at the end of the ramp fail. At the end of the ramp like this one, the plastic is stretched in two directions exasperating the issue. What I have seen with these damaged ramps is that plastic that began as 1/8" before the forming ends up to be about 1/32" thick around the drop hole. When I make this new ramp I will reverse mold it on a male mold. The top rim of the ramp will no longer be curved over...it will be flat. This reverse forming will put the thickest plastic at the bottom of the ramp (Uh, where the ball is most dangerous).
This was also an issue on a Transporter ramp. See attached photo to demonstrate the end result of a male mold (Left in photo) vs an original (right in photo). The ramp will be further strengthened by using .150" plastic vs the original .125".
[quoted image]

Freeplay40 - I'm super happy that you're going to be making these ramps. The center ramps are almost always broken to some degree on these. I know other owners have been waiting for a long time for these too. I will get one immediately when they're available.

#1075 14 days ago
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:

Freeplay40 - I'm super happy that you're going to be making these ramps. The center ramps are almost always broken to some degree on these. I know other owners have been waiting for a long time for these too. I will get one immediately when they're available.

Actually all three ramps take a beating on Comet. If you want to see some awesome stuff order Marks Corkscrew and cycle jump ramps. AMAZING!

#1076 14 days ago

I have both the corkscrew ramp and the cycle ramp and they are great. I was able to repair my center ramp, the entrance was ok but the exit was trashed. I was able to make an aluminum cap around the exit and put some foam tape on the insider and its good to go

#1077 14 days ago
Quoted from Pinbub:

Actually all three ramps take a beating on Comet. If you want to see some awesome stuff order Marks Corkscrew and cycle jump ramps. AMAZING!

Do you have a link to these? My corkscrew is in fantastic shape, but the cycle jump plastic part is glued together (albeit very nicely)

#1078 14 days ago
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:

Do you have a link to these? My corkscrew is in fantastic shape, but the cycle jump plastic part is glued together (albeit very nicely)

Highly recommended

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps

#1079 13 days ago

I have them both and am patiently waiting on the center ramp. I went with black kyvex cycle jump ramp for the added strength but after seeing that red version of it installed I wish I would have bought it instead.

#1080 12 days ago

IMG_20191128_102452695 (resized).jpg

Freeplay 40 ramps are the red cycle jump ramp on the left of the top row and clear orange cork screw ramp on the left in the bottom row. Both are much sturdier than stock

#1081 12 days ago
Quoted from Pinbub:

[quoted image]
Freeplay 40 ramps are the red cycle jump ramp on the left of the top row and clear orange cork screw ramp on the left in the bottom row. Both are much sturdier than stock

Oh Man, that's it, I'm getting all 3 ramps. I like the look of the red cycle jump!

#1082 12 days ago

Anyone have the cover that goes over the lights on the back of the 1 Million sign? When i got my Comet it was missing the ! Million sing i bought a wreck cycle jump ram on Ebay just to get the sign but the cover was missing.

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#1083 6 days ago

Trying to figure out why the dunk the dummy drop target won't reset. It always stays down. The switch below it is working as the machine scores 1,000 points and he starts yelling at you. If I manually raise the drop target and start a game, no points awarded and no taunting. If I ground Q48 on the CPU/Driver board, the coil fires fine and the drop target stays up. So the coil works, the switch is working, and the transistor to the coil path is fine. What am I missing? Potential chip issue?

#1084 6 days ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

Trying to figure out why the dunk the dummy drop target won't reset. It always stays down. The switch below it is working as the machine scores 1,000 points and he starts yelling at you. If I manually raise the drop target and start a game, no points awarded and no taunting. If I ground Q48 on the CPU/Driver board, the coil fires fine and the drop target stays up. So the coil works, the switch is working, and the transistor to the coil path is fine. What am I missing? Potential chip issue?

Check to see if the little tab is still on the reset plate.
co24 (resized).jpg

In the above pic you can see that the tab is missing, and that'll cause the drop target to never reset although the coil fires.

-Paul

#1085 6 days ago
Quoted from Pablito350:

Check to see if the little tab is still on the reset plate.
[quoted image]
In the above pic you can see that the tab is missing, and that'll cause the drop target to never reset although the coil fires.
-Paul

I will check tomorrow. But the target resets fine if I ground the transistor to fire the coil. I’m guessing that tab is there.

#1086 6 days ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:I’m guessing that tab is there.

If the target is down, and the coil fires but does not bring it up - the tab is missing

#1087 6 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If the target is down, and the coil fires but does not bring it up - the tab is missing

The coil does not fire during gameplay, only if I ground the Q48 transistor. The drop target resets fine and stays up if I ground the transistor manually. It’s like the machine is not communicating with the coil to reset it during a game. It does not fire when game is turned on or when a game is started.

#1088 6 days ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

The coil does not fire during gameplay, only if I ground the Q48 transistor. The drop target resets fine and stays up if I ground the transistor manually. It’s like the machine is not communicating with the coil to reset it during a game. It does not fire when game is turned on or when a game is started.

If it does not fire when the game is turned on (or in Coil Test) then the transistor is probably fried open.

Grounding the transistor tab shows that the WIRING itself is good, so you have eliminated that.

If you want a shotgun fix, replace the Q48 transistor (tp102) and the Q44 pre transistor next to it (2n4401)

#1089 5 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If it does not fire when the game is turned on (or in Coil Test) then the transistor is probably fried open.
Grounding the transistor tab shows that the WIRING itself is good, so you have eliminated that.
If you want a shotgun fix, replace the Q48 transistor (tp102) and the Q44 pre transistor next to it (2n4401)

Great tips! Of course now, it’s working fine (must have felt imminent surgery coming, lol).

I’ll eventually take the board out and resolder the header pins to all connectors. I’ll also test those two transistors with my DMM. Thanks!

#1090 5 days ago

Here’s my right flipper assembly. Looks like it needs a rebuild. That’s a bunch of duct tape and could explain why I can’t make it all the way around the corkscrew ramp.

For flipper rebuilds, are people doing upgrades on this style flipper mech or just replacing parts?

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#1091 5 days ago

Yep, that machine needs a full upgrade and rebuild

#1092 5 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Yep, that machine needs a full upgrade and rebuild

Now if I can just find a guide to flipper rebuilds...

Looks like the Sys 11 to Fliptronic section within your guide is the best route:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers#post-284661

#1093 18 hours ago

This mod is likely not for everyone, but wanted to add something more to my Comet and ended up spending $20 (including shipping) from mr_tantrum for just the head of the comet coaster mod that he makes. (see: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/73183 ) He only charged $20 and included the led with it. AWESOME DEAL!

I installed directly over the entrance to the comet center ramp and I think it looks really good right there. The pictures really do not do it justice, but you get the idea. If anyone is looking for a cheap mod that's easy to install and can be removed easily. Anyone else do anything similar to their Comet? I would love to see some mods that everyone has done. If anyone is up for it, please post pictures if you have any of any mods to your Comet.

cr1 (resized).JPGcr2 (resized).JPGcr3 (resized).JPG
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