Lancaster, NY
Quoted from midcoastsurf:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
If you move the ruler completely out of the way of the letters, like just above. I can make an exact drawing.
(Topic ID: 104189)
Linked Games
Comet
Williams, 1985
Topic Gallery
Quoted from yaksplat:If you move the ruler completely out of the way of the letters, like just above. I can make an exact drawing.
How’s this?
57F06928-4578-4C77-BE9C-F13E06F6FC05 (resized).jpegThat bottom plate was just something that an operator probably fabricated to keep people from busting out the bottom and stealing the coinbox. Although who knows there seems to be quite a few variations of how this game was made so maybe yours came that way. I do know my machine does not have that metal plate underneath that area.
Quoted from midcoastsurf:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice job posting these pics i'm sure it will help all those interested in adding the missing letters to their machines.
yaksplat
jaytrem Thanks again for helping me out with your comments. Today was the first time I broke down a SS machine by myself and reassemble. I've moved EM's before but I only reassembled my Stern SS Nugent after watching a guy separate everything. The couple I bought this from had never taken it apart and only had technicians work on it. I'm now the third owner of this HUO machine. I couldn't be happier. I'll have to give this a good cleaning and replace all the rubbers and change the incandescent lights over to LEDs, but the rest of the machine is in really great shape. He are my picture of day one. This did have to go up a flight of basement stairs with a turn for the last three too, which was a bitch for me and my friend. When I turned it on and it was ready to play, man it was well worth it though.
Backglass (resized).jpgComet (resized).jpgComet-Full (resized).jpgLeft (resized).jpgPlayfield (resized).jpgRight (resized).jpg
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:That bottom plate was just something that an operator probably fabricated to keep people from busting out the bottom and stealing the coinbox. Although who knows there seems to be quite a few variations of how this game was made so maybe yours came that way. I do know my machine does not have that metal plate underneath that area.
Good to know! I'll rip it off and sand down the entire bottom of the cab then.
Quoted from jaytrem:Wow, that's a nice looking one, congrats! No Hardtop needed there. Enjoy!
Agree, one of the nicest original playfields I've seen on a Comet.
Quoted from yaksplat:so here's a scale drawing of the letters. If anyone wants to try printing it out, send me a PM and let me know what format you need. Right now it's an autocad dwg, but i can convert it to pdf or dxf.
[quoted image]
Awesome! Here’s a better pic of the front of the cab cleaned up. You can see mine had flames on it at one point and someone sprayed them black.
9F521540-AEBE-41FB-958D-2650857FFFE4 (resized).jpeg
Hey everyone,
Weird thing happened last night: all of a sudden, NOTHING works except my flippers? I'm guessing I need to replace a fuse, haven't opened up the backbox yet, but...wtf? Any ideas on what would cause this to happen, seemingly out of the blue?
I'd blown F2 a couple times recently, not sure if that may be related...
Any thoughts welcomed, thanks, y'all.
It is a pretty standard part. Search for Williams coin return bezel. Not an exact match, but it will fit the door if you order two. You will need to order a new flap as well.
I just came across a youtube video about a system 11, 9, and 7 flaw that can start a fire. He shows how to add extra fuses to stop it from happening. Is this mod necessary on a Comet?
Sana'a
Quoted from byurick:I just came across a youtube video about a system 11, 9, and 7 flaw that can start a fire. He shows how to add extra fuses to stop it from happening. Is this mod necessary on a Comet?
Thanks! I swear I tried to search before posting but I guess I wasn't being specific enough. Should have looked for "fireproofing" Go figure...
Quoted from OpSteel:It is a pretty standard part. Search for Williams coin return bezel. Not an exact match, but it will fit the door if you order two. You will need to order a new flap as well.
https://www.pinballlife.com/coin-return-bezel.html
Thanks!
I have a question for the club. I replaced all the GI bulbs today and after taking everything apart and reassembling the clear ramp, I couldn't get the three screws as it starts off the playfield to be level with the metal plate on it. After several attempts, and the start of the ramp being an eight of an inch higher than the playfield, and preventing the ball form entering the ramp, I removed the metal and gently screwed in the plastic and it worked. Is this dangerous? Am I risking splitting or cracking the ramp? After buying this last weekend, then was a small crack less than an inch from the right screw going up the ramp. I added tape to hold that down, ending before the screws. Has anyone else used the ramp without the metal plate?
Quoted from Bluebeard:Has anyone else used the ramp without the metal plate?
The ramp will crack without the metal plate.
If it fit together before you took it apart, then you must have put something together wrong (did you forget the washers on top of the posts, under the ramp at the back ?)
The new repro ramps will probably have a thin metal flap, that will give a smoother transition than the metal threshold on the OEM ramp - stay tuned
Quoted from vid1900:The new repro ramps will probably have a thin metal flap, that will give a smoother transition than the metal threshold on the OEM ramp - stay tuned
Is Freeplay40 making these or someone else? (I know he has the corkscrew and cycle jump which look incredible). I have seen new main ramps on restorations, but guessing they are NOS ramps? Curious if anyone has made a different metal flap for the main ramp for a smooth transition?
Quoted from midcoastsurf:Is Freeplay40 making these or someone else?
It is supposed to be his first ramp when his larger heater is ready to go. Hopefully soon.
Quoted from vid1900:The ramp will crack without the metal plate.
If it fit together before you took it apart, then you must have put something together wrong (did you forget the washers on top of the posts, under the ramp at the back ?)
The new repro ramps will probably have a thin metal flap, that will give a smoother transition than the metal threshold on the OEM ramp - stay tuned
My issue is that the start of the ramp at the playfield were the right of the three screws go in has actually bent slightly up. See photos. Top pic is with the metal plate back in and you can see it sticking up on the right side. The left two screws it's flat to the playfield. The right picture you can see the actual bend. I can't be the first person with this issue. Anyone have any recommendations?
Quoted from jaytrem:Is the metal under the plastic? Pretty sure it's supposed to be on top.
When I bought this last weekend, it was under the plastic. The metal should be on top of the plastic?
Quoted from Bluebeard:When I bought this last weekend, it was under the plastic. The metal should be on top of the plastic?
#Jaytrem Thanks for catching that and #vid1900 for confirming. There's even a sloped side to the metal that I should have caught. This is the best site of forums and the help is very much appreciated.
No metal on my ramp, guess the previous owner removed it for some reason. Anyone know if you can buy it separately? No luck finding it so far.
Quoted from byurick:No metal on my ramp, guess the previous owner removed it for some reason. Anyone know if you can buy it separately? No luck finding it so far.
I think it's the same metal as Space Shuttle, and there should be lots of those around since the repro ramps don't need it.
I have a few of those pieces, but I'm out of the country right now.
Quoted from reconsider59:Hey everyone,
Weird thing happened last night: all of a sudden, NOTHING works except my flippers? I'm guessing I need to replace a fuse, haven't opened up the backbox yet, but...wtf? Any ideas on what would cause this to happen, seemingly out of the blue?
I'd blown F2 a couple times recently, not sure if that may be related...
Any thoughts welcomed, thanks, y'all.
Just an update on this, in case anyone else runs into this: I replaced F2 again, and everything came back on again. Not really sure why NOTHING was working, as in, no switches were registering, even after starting a game...previous times F2 has gone, the sols wouldn't work, but if the ball were in play, things would score.
If anyone sees this and knows what could be causing F2 to blow over and over again, please advise!
Quoted from reconsider59:If anyone sees this and knows what could be causing F2 to blow over and over again, please advise!
Could be a cracked diode on one of the coils.
Run the coil test and see which one of them kills the fuse
Tug on each diode hard and see if any fall apart.
Make sure you are using a 2.5a fuse (check my math in the manual, but I think that's right)
Finally got around to having my wife make me the new letters on her vinyl machine. I'm really happy with how it turned out. Thanks again to yaksplat for scaling the letters and to
midcoastsurf for posting the pic of his.
20201118_181638 (resized).jpgQuoted from vid1900:Could be a cracked diode on one of the coils.
Run the coil test and see which one of them kills the fuse
Tug on each diode hard and see if any fall apart.
Make sure you are using a 2.5a fuse (check my math in the manual, but I think that's right)
Thanks for this!!! Will do a check soon...
Picking up my Comet tomorrow, super excited. I will have to read through all 21 pages to see any good info!!
Quoted from Armyaviation:Picking up my Comet tomorrow, super excited. I will have to read through all 21 pages to see any good info!!
Lots of great info for sure and welcome to the club. Won't take that long and you will definitely pick up some good tips and ideas.
Quoted from Armyaviation:Picking up my Comet tomorrow, super excited. I will have to read through all 21 pages to see any good info!!
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:Finally got around to having my wife make me the new letters on her vinyl machine. I'm really happy with how it turned out. Thanks again to yaksplat for scaling the letters and to midcoastsurf for posting the pic of his.
[quoted image]
Awesome! I think it looks way better with “Comet” at the bottom.
Quoted from jaytrem:It is supposed to be his first ramp when his larger heater is ready to go. Hopefully soon.
I'm in for a center ramp. Following this thread to buy on the initial order from Freeplay40.
Quoted from panthera:FYI, if anyone runs into this, just swap the wires on 4J10-10 and 4J10-11, commas work like a champ after that!
Finally found a little time to get around to messing with this. So I took the 12 wire connector j10 off the Pinscore controller board and pulled numbers 10 and 11 loose and swapped their locations in the connector and reseated it. Restarted the machine and I still have no commas displaying. What am I missing here? My controller board is revision E, my displays say they are revisiin B.
16064111663548899129759956993964 (resized).jpg20201126_111125 (resized).jpg
20201126_112333 (resized).jpg 3 weeks later
So I had two problems with my Comet that were magically solved by switching to all LEDs.
First the GI which was the only part that had LEDs in it, would change from being dim to bright at random. Second, anytime I lit the playfield multiplier on ball 1 both the 2x and 5x inserts would light although it only awarded 2x.
Last night I put all warm white LEDs in the backbox which gave it a bright yet incandescent look and put all bright white in the inserts which really helped illuminate the playfield. Both problems are now gone. Game looks fantastic! No idea why this solved the problems but I sure am happy.
For those who have purchased any of my coasters in the past (Comet, Cyclone, Hurricane) could you please post pics of them installed? I've had a few people ask where they go, but since I don't own any of the coaster pins its just a guess on my part.
For those running LED's in the inserts, are you using non-ghosting LED's, adding resistors to every socket, or another solution? I have Comet 2SMD sunlight white in my inserts and GI and love them, but the inserts/controlled lamps ghost/flicker.
Quoted from midcoastsurf:For those running LED's in the inserts, are you using non-ghosting LED's, adding resistors to every socket, or another solution? I have Comet 2SMD sunlight white in my inserts and GI and love them, but the inserts/controlled lamps ghost/flicker.
I use plain old comet led's. I have a slight ghosting in some inserts, but not enough to bother me
Quoted from Jason43:I use plain old comet led's. I have a slight ghosting in some inserts, but not enough to bother me
Yep the same I have Comet 2smd's and the ghosting isn't that bad.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Yep the same I have Comet 2smd's and the ghosting isn't that bad.
Hmm, all of my inserts that are supposed to be lit solid (ie. bonus arrow and circle inserts, are flashing rapidly during gameplay). I'll take a video. I need to replace the power cord with a grounded one and re-flow header pins on the boards (just picked up this machine recently), not sure if any of that could contribute to the issue.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
