(Topic ID: 104189)

Comet Club - Admit One


By midcoastsurf

4 years ago



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There are 550 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 11.
#501 35 days ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

So... you are correct, again!!
I tested the Q47 to 1J11 pin 1 and no continuity. To the problem is the board.... can I use a little piece of wire to "jump" from 1j11 pin 1 to one of the legs of Q47? Will that work.... or should that work?
Side note..... (the Knocker)I tested 1J12 pin 8 to Q60 and got continuity.
Thanks!
MM
OUT

Well crap!!! I made a quick jumper from Q47 to 1J11 pin 1 finally got continuity but kicker still does not work.

Next we look at the wiring......

MM

OUT

#502 31 days ago

So.... fun with continuity...

Good from 1J11 pin 1 to TIP (Q47)
Good from Tip (Q47) to large black connector (female pin) gray with brown wire
Good from large black connector (male pin) grey and brown wire to out hole solenoid.

Now, I realize the last test is pretty crappy because half the other pins make continuity with it.
Is there a way to isolate it? Should I cut off the red wire on the solenoid? Would that help?

Thanks,

MM

OUT

#503 31 days ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Is there a way to isolate it? Should I cut off the red wire on the solenoid? Would that help?
Thanks,
MM
OUT

No need to cut the wire. Check for solenoid DC voltage at the coil red power supply wire with a DMM. Once you verified supply voltage at the coil, then briefly short Q47's metal tab to ground. The coil should fire. This test tests all the downstream wiring from the transistor output to the coil (note it does not test the transistor itslef) If it does not, you have either a break or a high resistance somewhere - common points would be a cracked solder joint under the transistor, a burned trace on the board, a cracked header pin, improperly mating or oxidized header pin male or female, bad crimp on the connectors pin, pinched wire, bad solder on the coil tab trigger wire, defective coil...to name a few. One of the most common, the IDC connector pinch point no longer breaking through the insulation and mating with the wire underneath. Sometimes harder to detect with a meter, because as you press on the "teeth" of the IDC the pressure of your meter probe makes the connection!

1 week later
#504 20 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

No need to cut the wire. Check for solenoid DC voltage at the coil red power supply wire with a DMM. Once you verified supply voltage at the coil, then briefly short Q47's metal tab to ground. The coil should fire. This test tests all the downstream wiring from the transistor output to the coil (note it does not test the transistor itslef) If it does not, you have either a break or a high resistance somewhere - common points would be a cracked solder joint under the transistor, a burned trace on the board, a cracked header pin, improperly mating or oxidized header pin male or female, bad crimp on the connectors pin, pinched wire, bad solder on the coil tab trigger wire, defective coil...to name a few. One of the most common, the IDC connector pinch point no longer breaking through the insulation and mating with the wire underneath. Sometimes harder to detect with a meter, because as you press on the "teeth" of the IDC the pressure of your meter probe makes the connection!

Ok... here we go:
#1 OH SHIT....... Q47 tab to ground WORKED!!!
OK... so if that worked, does that mean that it's my board not my wiring? Or could it still be my wiring??

#2 Yes I am getting power to both side of the solenoid
#3 Motherboard was kinda repaired. If you look at post #501 I made a jumper from Q47 to 1J11.
#4 No oxidization on the male to female large connectors.
#5 I did try to push/pull the grey and brown wire (which leads to the solenoid) No Luck
#6 I could replace the full connector (J11)

Thanks,

MM

OUT

#505 20 days ago

Wiring is good then Madmatt1. Either Q47 s failed, or there is no signal to its base to turn on, or no connection to its emmiter from ground.

#506 20 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Wiring is good then Madmatt1. Either Q47 s failed, or there is no signal to its base to turn on, or no connection to its emmiter from ground.

Alright.......... I'll take the board out and redo the Q47.... making sure to fix any traces.

What do you mean by "no connection to the emmiter". What's the emmiter??

Thanks Wayout440

MM

OUT

#507 19 days ago

A transistor has 3 connections, and each part has a name. A base (B) collector (C) and emitter (E) see pic below. When wired as a switch for pinball, a low voltage signal turn on the collector to emitter junction to complete the circuit. If the emitter of the transistor does not have continuity to ground, even though the transistor is good, there will be no current flow to the load.
It's just one possible way this circuit can fail.

Screenshot_2018-11-26-11-06-41~01 (resized).png
#508 17 days ago

Hello all,

I've been having an issue with a pop bumper that engages as soon as I turn the machine on. I replaced the driver transistor, everything worked for a short time and then the issue cropped back up.

Reading about others with the same issue, it sounds like the suggestion is to replace the driver transistor, pre-driver transistor, and the diode all at the same time. Only problem is, I've been poring over the schematics and I can't for the life of me determine which pre-driver transistor and diode I should be replacing. The transistor in question is Q81 for the left pop bumper.

Any advice? Thanks!

#509 17 days ago
Quoted from Krivicide:

Hello all,
I've been having an issue with a pop bumper that engages as soon as I turn the machine on. I replaced the driver transistor, everything worked for a short time and then the issue cropped back up.
Reading about others with the same issue, it sounds like the suggestion is to replace the driver transistor, pre-driver transistor, and the diode all at the same time. Only problem is, I've been poring over the schematics and I can't for the life of me determine which pre-driver transistor and diode I should be replacing. The transistor in question is Q81 for the left pop bumper.
Any advice? Thanks!

Make sure that this is not a switch problem or shorted switch line first! Special solenoids (usually pops and slings) have two paths of activation, either by the CPU or by direct switches. The usual cause of special solenoid circuit failure is a stuck switch that locks the associated solenoid on. Don't replace things randomly (shotgun) except as a last resort.

#510 17 days ago

Thanks for your reply. There was nothing visibly wrong with the switch - no shorts, appropriate gaps, and so on.

#511 17 days ago

I've had Comet and Cyclone at my place for a while now and I definitely prefer Comet. Is it just me?

#512 17 days ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

I've had Comet and Cyclone at my place for a while now and I definitely prefer Comet. Is it just me?

You are not alone... I love Comet - one of my all-time favorites. I'm not even sure why I like it so much, I just do.

#513 17 days ago
Quoted from Krivicide:

Thanks for your reply. There was nothing visibly wrong with the switch - no shorts, appropriate gaps, and so on.

Visual only isn't good enough for me. I'd go with a voltmeter (DMM), oscilloscope or logic probe. Start at U7 pins 11,12, and 13. Pin 12 can go low if C58 shorted as well as a switch closure. If you check those pins from there you can go downstream or upstream with the signal flow. It is true in many cases: The coil could of locked on because the switch might have been closed for too long at one moment, and maybe all it has took out is the driver transistor. I just prefer to do a little troubleshooting up front to save me some grief if there is more to it than that..and with special solenoids the direct switch section should always be examined.

#514 17 days ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

I've had Comet and Cyclone at my place for a while now and I definitely prefer Comet. Is it just me?

They are both fun, but Comet is the better game for sure.

#515 13 days ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Alright.......... I'll take the board out and redo the Q47.... making sure to fix any traces.
What do you mean by "no connection to the emmiter". What's the emmiter??
Thanks Wayout440
MM
OUT

Well..... I screwed up again. I've been fight with this board for the last 3+ months; so I'm waving the White Flag and sending the board to (http://chrishiblerpinball.com). I'm sure he can fix my board.

On to another subject..... while my pin is down how to do people feel about Playfield Protectors?
Are they a pain to install?
Are they worth it?
Should I even install it since my playfield is in "ok" condition (6.5 out of 10)?
Or should I just wax the hell out of my playfield again?

Thanks,

MM

OUT

#516 13 days ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Well..... I screwed up again. I've been fight with this board for the last 3+ months; so I'm waving the White Flag and sending the board to (http://chrishiblerpinball.com). I'm sure he can fix my board.
On to another subject..... while my pin is down how to do people feel about Playfield Protectors?
Are they a pain to install?
Are they worth it?
Should I even install it since my playfield is in "ok" condition (6.5 out of 10)?
Or should I just wax the hell out of my playfield again?
Thanks,
MM
OUT

Meh. I have no need for playfield protectors. I waxed mine but they are probably due since its been about a year. No need to go crazy.

#517 13 days ago

Can you post some playfield pics? Maybe worth hardtopping? Guess that depends on if you're a purist or not, along with a number of other considerations. Still loving mine, playfield was total crap shape though, so easy decision.

#518 13 days ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

On to another subject..... while my pin is down how to do people feel about Playfield Protectors?

A protector will keep the playfield from wearing further, and level out all your cupped or sunken inserts.

Or just wax it and put Mylar over all the wear spots to keep them from getting worse.

#519 13 days ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Well..... I screwed up again. I've been fight with this board for the last 3+ months; so I'm waving the White Flag and sending the board to (http://chrishiblerpinball.com). I'm sure he can fix my board.
On to another subject..... while my pin is down how to do people feel about Playfield Protectors?
Are they a pain to install?
Are they worth it?
Should I even install it since my playfield is in "ok" condition (6.5 out of 10)?
Or should I just wax the hell out of my playfield again?
Thanks,
MM
OUT

Seems like mixed reactions to the pf protectors. Some like, some strong dislike.

Your pf probably has thousands upon thousands of plays on location. Some hundreds of plays in the home are unlikely make it noticeably worse. So, in my opinion, not worth installing a protector when it's already worn. I vote enjoy it the way it is until if/when you decide to restore it.

#520 11 days ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

Can you post some playfield pics? Maybe worth hardtopping? Guess that depends on if you're a purist or not, along with a number of other considerations. Still loving mine, playfield was total crap shape though, so easy decision.

Yes, I thought about a hardtop....... but it looks like a nightmare to install and I really don't want to spend $350+. (vid1900 did a great step by step install)

So, my next consideration was the playfield protector. I want to keep the PF from wearing out further maybe a little smoother.

Or do what Vid1900 "Or just wax it and put Mylar over all the wear spots to keep them from getting worse."

Lastly, I could just put a nice coat of wax on it and throw the money onto an LED set.

JAYTREM: my wear on the PF is not really that bad. A little on the main orange and yellow stripes and a little on the cycle jump. But the worst is the top of the PF (around the 1986 inserts) and the shooting lane.

See below pictures:

Thanks,

MM

OUT

comet PF (1) (resized).jpgcomet PF (3) (resized).jpgcomet PF (5) (resized).jpgcomet PF 2 (2) (resized).jpg
#521 11 days ago

That playfield looks pretty good. Heck of a lot better than mine did. I don't think I would have had the heart to hardtop that one.

#522 11 days ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

JAYTREM: my wear on the PF is not really that bad. A little on the main orange and yellow stripes and a little on the cycle jump. But the worst is the top of the PF (around the 1986 inserts) and the shooting lane.

See below pictures:

Your playfield is blown out already (tons of planking), so you can just wax and play it without worry that you are damaging a restorable playfield

Clean all that rust off you ramp flap(s), cause that kills your balls fast.

#523 10 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Your playfield is blown out already (tons of planking), so you can just wax and play it without worry that you are damaging a restorable playfield
Clean all that rust off you ramp flap(s), cause that kills your balls fast.

Already Vid1900, should I put some mylar down around the "1986" and the shooting lane? Or will this just cause more problems?
I will clean all the rust off and repaint.

Second, I need a list of LEDs to buy for the machine. I know one of you wonderful people has done it; i've seen it. If someone would like to direct me to that thread, that would be great.

Thanks.

Until next time friends,

MM

OUT

#524 10 days ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Already Vid1900, should I put some mylar down around the "1986" and the shooting lane? Or will this just cause more problems?

You could put a strip across it.

Although, because the lettering is already worn to the wood, any restorer would re-decal the entire phrase - so it's not a big worry if it wears a little more.

Quoted from madmatt1:

I will clean all the rust off and repaint.

They were "gun blued" originally, because paint won't stick.

You can clean and wax them and it will take many years to rust again

Or if you have a gun nut friend, they can re-blue them for you.

Or you can just buy new ones.

#525 10 days ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Second, I need a list of LEDs to buy for the machine. I know one of you wonderful people has done it; i've seen it. If someone would like to direct me to that thread, that would be great.

You need 36 of simple WarmWhite # 44 bulbs for white and amber inserts (so just get two 25 packs so you have spares):

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/led.htm

You 14 of the simple Red # 44 bulbs (get one 25 pack):

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/led.htm

You need 6 of the Green # 44 bulbs:

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/led.htm

You need 36 for the GI playfield in WW or Natural White (two 25 packs?):

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd.htm

You need 3 Red "bendies" in # 44 base (to light the top rollover and saucers):

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdflex.htm

I'd strongly suggest you get 5 of the frosted LED strips in WW or NW (although not needed, you will want):

https://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-10-SMD-5050-6-3V-LIGHTED-STRIPS-p/10smd6.3vstrip.htm

Leave the backbox in all #47 incandescent bulbs, no LED yet made can preserve the yellow tones. If you try to put Blue LEDs behind the COMET letters, you will be castrated & kicked out of the Comet Club forever.

#526 10 days ago

How about something like this for the pop bumpers...

https://www.pinballlife.com/briterings-pop-bumper-lighting.html

Note: these are wedge and I don't see any bayonet with the outer lighting.

I just put some of these in mine...

https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-classic-pop-bumper-lighting-for-bayonet-sockets.html

Still need to replace the bodies with the clear ones like Vid did in the hardtopped Comet. My luck was really bad, apparently one of my new bodies was a bit different than the other two. It's looks like white light while the other two look natural. Ended up taking it it back apart to make sure it wasn't the led.

Clear bodies here...

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-pop-bumper-body-p-42.html

I see they now have frosted clear too.

#527 10 days ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

Note: these are wedge and I don't see any bayonet with the outer lighting.

I just put some of these in mine...

https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-classic-pop-bumper-lighting-for-bayonet-sockets.html

Cheaper from Comet, and they have Wedge or Bayonet:

https://www.cometpinball.com/Pinball-Pop-Bumper-LED-Light-p/11smdbmpdisc.htm

If you know how to solder, it's best to flip them so the bright lights face the playfield, and you can skip the socket altogether.

#528 10 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Cheaper from Comet, and they have Wedge or Bayonet:
https://www.cometpinball.com/Pinball-Pop-Bumper-LED-Light-p/11smdbmpdisc.htm
If you know how to solder, it's best to flip them so the bright lights face the playfield, and you can skip the socket altogether.

Looks like no bayonet rings from Comet either. I think I might just replace the sockets so that I can go with the rings at some point. They do a real nice job of lighting up my Hurricane in the area.

Also, the BriteCaps have the brighter lights on the bottom already, so no need to flip those. But probably the best bet is whichever place you happen to be doing an order from already, in his case most likely Comet.

#529 10 days ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

Looks like no bayonet rings from Comet either. I think I might just replace the sockets so that I can go with the rings at some point.

You can put any base on them you want.

If you order the LED strips from Comet, it will come with both 555 and 44 bases, so you can just use those 44 bayonet bases with the Rings.

But because pop bumpers are such a high vibration location, it's usually better to just skip the sockets altogether, and use wire leads directly to the underside of the playfield. No flickering lights that way!

#530 10 days ago

IMO the rings don't look good in Comet. I used Cointaker Afterburner pop inserts. You get get nice EVEN lighting of both the pop cap and underside, without the ring effect.

#531 10 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

IMO the rings don't look good in Comet. I used Cointaker Afterburner pop inserts. You get get nice EVEN lighting of both the pop cap and underside, without the ring effect.

That's very similar to what I have now. Did you put the clear bodies in? I think ideally I'd like the rings lit on the bottom but not the top. Was it the top lights that you didn't like?

Quoted from vid1900:

But because pop bumpers are such a high vibration location, it's usually better to just skip the sockets altogether, and use wire leads directly to the underside of the playfield. No flickering lights that way!

Good tip, thanks.

#532 10 days ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

That's very similar to what I have now. Did you put the clear bodies in? I think ideally I'd like the rings lit on the bottom but not the top. Was it the top lights that you didn't like?

Good tip, thanks.

I kept everything stock on the pops. The Afterburners lit up the playfield niceely, actually had to clean again between the pops. I was shooting for enhancement, not modification.

0128182044 (resized).jpg
#533 9 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You need 36 of simple WarmWhite # 44 bulbs for white and amber inserts (so just get two 25 packs so you have spares):
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/led.htm
You 14 of the simple Red # 44 bulbs (get one 25 pack):
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/led.htm
You need 6 of the Green # 44 bulbs:
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/led.htm
You need 36 for the GI playfield in WW or Natural White (two 25 packs?):
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd.htm
You need 3 Red "bendies" in # 44 base (to light the top rollover and saucers):
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdflex.htm
I'd strongly suggest you get 5 of the frosted LED strips in WW or NW (although not needed, you will want):
https://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-10-SMD-5050-6-3V-LIGHTED-STRIPS-p/10smd6.3vstrip.htm
Leave the backbox in all #47 incandescent bulbs, no LED yet made can preserve the yellow tones. If you try to put Blue LEDs behind the COMET letters, you will be castrated & kicked out of the Comet Club forever.

WOW.... great breakdown VID but I have a few question and comments:

1# I PROMISE, NOT TO PUT ANY BLUE LEDS IN THE BACK-BOX!
2# I'm guessing I should go with the warm white instend of the Natural white to give it that older look and feel
3# For the GI lights, should I do clear top or frosted top?
4# The frosted LED strips sound like a great idea, but were would you suggest placing them?

Thank you everyone for your suggests.

MM

OUT

#534 9 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I kept everything stock on the pops. The Afterburners lit up the playfield niceely, actually had to clean again between the pops. I was shooting for enhancement, not modification.[quoted image]

Looks great! When I did the hardtop I was planing to stick with the original look as much as possible. Couldn't resist the red freeplay40 cycle jump though, also went with black Reese Rails and yellow flipper bats. But I'd definitely would like more light up top, so will go with the rings or clear bodies at some point.

#535 9 days ago

Big fan of my Comet. Pretty basic game but never stop enjoying it.

As fellow owners of a Comet, would you recommend either a Hurricane or Cyclone pinball? These seems to be sister games to the Comet. Thanks for the advice.

#536 9 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:As fellow owners of a Comet, would you recommend either a Hurricane or Cyclone pinball? These seems to be sister games to the Comet. Thanks for the advice.

I like Comet best of the three, but the others are pretty fun as well. The consensus is Cyclone is the best, but I am not with the majority here. It's very cool to have all three in a row - I've also thought of having all the system 9 machines in a row - Comet, Sorcerer, and Space Shuttle. That would be a great line as well... Never put these together, however.

#537 9 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

As fellow owners of a Comet, would you recommend either a Hurricane or Cyclone pinball? These seems to be sister games to the Comet. Thanks for the advice.

Cyclone is my first love, so it's hard to be objective. I picked up a Hurricane just over a month ago, actually enjoying it more than I thought I would. It plays very different than the Comet and Cyclone. 2 months ago I would have said Cyclone all the way, now it's a tough call. Sorry, not much help.

#538 9 days ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

Cyclone is my first love, so it's hard to be objective.

Me too. Check out my story page.
https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/wayout440/stories/hey-you-with-the-face

#539 9 days ago

Cool story! I do wonder what happened to my "the Cyclone". Would play at Bowcraft, the local amusement park. In the late 80s/early 90s they had a few pins and older video games in the "bargain basement", a quarter for 5 balls and easy to win free games. Unfortunately this year was the last for Bowcraft, it's being replaced by condos, very sad. The pins are long gone, but at least my kids got to enjoy a few years of the rides. It's going to suck watching the place be torn down over the next year.

#540 9 days ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

2# I'm guessing I should go with the warm white instend of the Natural white to give it that older look and feel

The natural white is pretty sweet.

Maybe get a bag of them and see if that becomes your fav

Quoted from madmatt1:

3# For the GI lights, should I do clear top or frosted top?

They come clear (you'll see in the link), but I sand them with 120 so they don't make the 2 shadows on my plastics.

Quoted from madmatt1:

4# The frosted LED strips sound like a great idea, but were would you suggest placing them?

One goes under the metal strip above the Rabbits

2 go behind the ducks

2 go under comet ramp

1 goes under cycle ramp

They all are out of direct vision of the player. You might find other hiding places for them.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet/page/2#post-4483968

#541 9 days ago

297a762161bff1eb5318ae6d4d9596722da96bde (resized).jpg
#542 8 days ago

Cyclone or Hurricane

Thanks for the advice. I haven't played either before so I will have to see if I can find one locally. Thanks for the advice!

#543 5 days ago

Hey just wanted to know how many of you guys out there have this Ramp Protector on your machine?
Mine has it, the first pic of a machine in this thread post #5 has it and several other's in this thread.
I was just at the Vegas Pinball Hall of Fame and theirs has it.
There is a Comet listed on the marketplace place that has it and others I've seen listed for sale have it.
To me looks factory maybe a later add because it is not in the Orginal flyer. Mine definitely looks like it's been on since the beginning as the ramp entrance has no cracks or any damage it definitely did its job. My protector covers the word Comet on the ramp but most others seem to have been applied higher maybe adjustments made as they started installing them.

Just wondering if this was a factory add after Orginal production started added later in production.

Pics of mine covering the Comet and Pinball Hall of Fames with decal applied higher

20181106_090356 (resized).jpg20181207_141021 (resized).jpg
#544 5 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

[quoted image]

Mine didn't have this piece and I didn't even know about it. I just grabbed one off of ebay and will definitely be adding a light strip there also looks perfect for it.

#545 5 days ago

Mine does not have the protector. Somehow the ramp managed to stay in pretty good shape (I have minor issues at the other end). Considering the playfield wear I gotta wonder if it came from another machine.

#546 5 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Mine didn't have this piece and I didn't even know about it. I just grabbed one off of ebay and will definitely be adding a light strip there also looks perfect for it.

It's good you got that piece, otherwise balls wedge under the ramp and crack the plastic

#547 5 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Hey just wanted to know how many of you guys out there have this Ramp Protector on your machine?

That's a pretty popular protector, you sometimes see it on SS too.

It's way better than the tiny metal strip that originality came with Comet, just make sure that the ball does not hit the screw heads; they should be flush.

#548 4 days ago

Mine was an aftermarket ramp with a significantly longer black ramp flap.

6d564acb9ee8fd25db794fcb839945d9ca0c5bb8 (resized).jpg
#549 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Big fan of my Comet. Pretty basic game but never stop enjoying it.
As fellow owners of a Comet, would you recommend either a Hurricane or Cyclone pinball? These seems to be sister games to the Comet. Thanks for the advice.

I think Hurricane blows. No where near the pedigree of Comet & Cyclone. Definitely get a Cyclone.

#550 2 days ago

Of coarse it blows it’s a Hurricane!

Actually it’s a fun game the long looping ramp is cool!

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Flip N Out Pinball
$ 15.00
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