I have something similar going on. The commas show up with the score on the opposite side. Like player 1's comma shows up on player 3's I think. The Pinscore displays were installed prior to me purchasing the machine using old ribbon cables. Have been meaning to get new ones to see if it would fix. I did move them around with no luck. Doesn't bother me much, so just one of those things that I'll get to eventually.

That being said, I seem to recall something about there being an option to turn the commas off with some of their models. Probably worth giving Pinscore a call.

I don't see a phone number on their website. I sent an email to them and got a response from Marco.

Jumper JP1 on some PinScore. If it is installed it enables lighting up the commas.

e689dc8ece34c08ed6a13cddfffb7a72c34ffaf7 (resized).jpg

I installed a new dunk the dummy plastic and noticed one of the post that holds the plastic is not correct post. I look in my manual and can't find a part number to order one. Anyone have the part number?

Thanks

Screenshot_20181003-104813_Gallery (resized).jpg

That thing has probably been replaced a few times over the years. It does not have to be the same post as the others.

Put a washer down on the plastic, then a 6-32 screw through the washer and into the hole at the top of the post you have.

Two important things:

1. Put a scrap of Mylar under the new plastic (white side) so the dummy target does not wear all the paint off.

2. Put some of those PETG washers above the posts @ the Dummy, Comet entrance and Funhouse, or those plastics will be broken again in a few months.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet/page/2#post-4483968
53d2eb8e25388d74b704a02dd3e88b370409775d (resized).jpg

Interesting. I had read that somewhere before, too. This board does not appear to have that option. The folks at Marco are stumped and researching the issue. I'll report back here as things develop.

20181003_083229 (resized).jpg

The post must have been changed because there is not hole in that post to screw down the plastic. I guess I could drill a hole in that post.

Thanks for your help.

That post might go in the cycle jump area. They made 8000 Comets and some of the earlier ones had a blank post and no hole in the green plastic near the one way gate. That's why some owners look at the new plastics and are like "huh??"

You can get the proper posts (either with 6-32 hole or with 6-32 stud) from pinball life

Buy an extra post, because those things will shear off sooner or later.

https://www.pinballlife.com/2-14-tall-metal-post-with-threaded-base-and-female-threaded-top.html

530-5332-01_400x169 (resized).jpg530-5332-03_400x169 (resized).jpg

I think the jumpers are on on the displays themselves, not the master display board - worth a look

Thank you so much. I will order them today. I looked my manual and could find them listed.

Nothing there that I see (nothing on the back either, just the soldered legs of each digit). Thanks for the suggestion, though.

20181003_105450 (resized).jpg

I just checked my x-pin displays and they have the commas. Something to look into on the next purchase.

Yeah, your's looks different (I see Revision B on your boards)

I wonder why they just did not enable them for all games?

Were there any sys7 games that did not have commas?

Looks like I've got the same displays but have revision C on the board, also no BB at the end. As mentioned before, I have commas, but they show up on the opposite player.

Thats very strange indeed. I also had the pinscores on my comet and the commas never worked on it either. It will ne very interesting to see if you get to the bottom of it amd figure it out.

Sounds like I'm ahead of the game with the commas at least showing up somewhere. Just gotta play 4 players all the time and it's all good!

Does anyone sell the left inlane/outlane lane guide? It's transparent red, double-sided, 3 1/8" I believe. I can't seem to find one.

Update:
Found a non-transparent res one from Marco. Better than nothing. If anyone has a source for the correct one please let me know.

Just checked with James, his Comet is Pinscore RevB and the commas all work on his.

He said he did not flip any jumpers, they were set out of the box.

Yes, wrong revision it seems. Yours is -BB should be -P. Photo is my Comet display board

Williams COMET*
* These games may require a different PinScore™ model depending upon your original display part numbers. Check your original display board part number and use the corresponding PinScore™ part number: Williams D-10749 or PCB #5760-10846-XX (-XX is the board revision number) = PinScore™ Model PS-10749-P

1004180610 (resized).jpg

You might have hit it. Here is what I have. Going on your theory, it looks like maybe I ordered the correct part but someone is putting the wrong board in the bag? The bag is labeled for the model ending in P but the part number on the board ends in BB. I'm guessing that the "revision" letter is simply a way of tracking changes to different generations of the same board. I'll pass this idea along to Marco and see what they say.

20181004_082335 (resized).jpg

Just so everyone knows what we are talking about:

Comet had two different display driver boards from the factory.

One with edge connectors, the 8363.

s-l160cv0 (resized).jpg

One with pin connectors, the 10749 board that have header pins for voltage and I/O

s9dmasterl_1 (resized).jpg

But, none of this has anything do do with commas.

Both boards do the exact same thing, and you can cut the I/O connectors off from the harness and switch one to the other in about 10 minutes.

The closest I've found is the opaque one you found at Marco or the transparent one that's single sided.

Ah well, it was fun to have a moment of excitement over a possible solution. I forwarded the picture and idea to Marco. They got right back to me and said that I've got the right board. They're trying to get in touch with the engineer to figure it out. Excellent customer service from them on this so far, btw.

From the factory, the lane divider was single sided.

If you can't find a single, buy a double, score it on the inside with a razor and snap it off.

Leave about 3mm of the cut side intact so there is some reinforcement to the plastic.

Sand off any rough edge so it does not wear on the rubber ring.

Original flyer:
36001504 (resized).jpg

Any new news to report in your missing commas? This post has intrigued me because I had the same problem wirh mine. It was really aggravating and but I had just dealt with it. Can't believe I didn't ever think of emailing marco to try and get the problem resolved.

Nothing yet. Last week they were still trying to get a response from their engineer. I'll follow up here when I hear something.

Marco couldn't figure it out so they asked that I send the display set back for a refund. I was disappointed that there wasn't a fix available but very appreciative of their timely responses and that they stood by their product warranty.

I ordered the system 9 displays from Xpin instead. There were some quality control issues there (missing solder on one pin for a comma and some white scratches on the display faces). Again, I really appreciated the prompt response from customer service (this time directly from Xpin) pointing me in the right direction. They offered to replace the scratched displays and the one with missing solder but I decided that it was quicker to fix them than return them. Ten minutes with a soldering iron, a sharpie marker and the diffuser gels Xpin supplies and the displays both work and look great!

For what it's worth, I really like the fact that Xpin includes the diffuser gels. They help the displays look more stock, especially when off. Their foam gaskets fit better than the Pinscore gaskets, too. Pinscore uses a thicker material that tends to get smashed into the display window when placing the backglass.

That was more of a journey than I expected from new displays but interesting and educational. Thanks to both Xpin and Marco Specialties for excellent customer service.

20181018_123506 (resized).jpg

OK... So I got a Comet that I am fixing up, cleaning, and adding LEDs... quick question... do the kickers score any points? Mine work kicking the ball... but they score no points... just asking...

THANKS!

Yes, and they make a boom sound when they are working.

Any Ideas on where to look?

There is a scoring switch that is activated at the base of the kicker arm

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet/page/2#post-4484021

Got it! Adjusted both switches... Works great now...

Can I please get a little help......

I'm having a little problems with my out-hole. No matter what I do it just will not kick.
I can't get it to kick in the test mode
The coil looks good; it is not stuck or rubbing on anything
It is getting power; about 30 volts to each side

I've changed Q47. (no help)

I know the switch to the out-hole is working because the game "see" when I drain....

Anyone got a guess???

Thank you,

MM

OUT

P.S. Side note.. my knocker is not working either. But that is much let important. (new coil and new Q60 )

Weak coil, you could check the ohms on it. Coil sleeve, polish metal shaft.

There is no movement at all on the kicker.

Ohms were about 4.7 or 4.8 on the coil

I do have a new spare coil I could try.....

Side question...... Does the dunk tank kicker kick every time the ball is drained?
MM

OUT

If you have power to both sides of the coil, the find the trigger side of the coil (NOT the power side that is daisy chained to other coils!) and briefly ground it with a jumper or alligator clip lead to ground. It should fire. That will tell you if the coil and mechs are working correctly.
If that works, find the driver transistor for that coil and briefly ground the metal tab of the transistor.,,This will tell you if the connectors and wiring are good from the driving transistor to the coil.

Each time a new ball is served to the shooter lane, the dummy is reset.

Nope.... either the Q47 to metal (via alligator clip) nor black wire of the coil to metal.

I'm guessing my coil is shot.... I will replace the coil and report back later today.

Thanks,

MM

OUT

OK...as long as you are certain that the "metal" you jumped to was a valid ground.

Maybe......

Anyway.... I just replace the coil and still nothing. At this point I'm guessing it should be a wiring problem, but I'm not sure.

Back to the drawing board.

MM

OUT

Wait...you said you measured about 30VDC to each side of the coil...then you replaced the coil, correct? do you still have the 30VDC to each side of the coil? There is nothing else there if you ground the trigger side of the coil - it has to fire. The only thing that could be wrong if it does not would be either you no longer have the 30VDC, or you didn't jump to a valid ground....or your jumper doesn't have continuity.

Edit: Whatever you grounded to take the measurement with the meter would be the ground to use

Oops.... yes you are correct. Apparently I was testing it wrong.
When I touch the black wire to the grounding wire with the alligator clips the coil does fires.

So.... is this still a wiring problem??

Thanks again WAYOUT440

MM

OUT

your welcome. We don't know yet. This is a process requiring logical steps. You know now about half the circuit is good: Power--->coil.

Now briefly jump the transistor metal mounting tab of Q47 to ground. If it fires, then wiring from the transistor to the coil is good. If it doesn't, then you have a problem somewhere between transistor and coil, could be connector, could be a wire problem, etc.. Note that this does not test the transistor itself.

Yea... no it does not fire. I just changed that Q47 out last week. I'll have to try and track the wires.....

Thanks,

MM

OUT

I recently acquired a decent Comet as part of a multi game deal. PF is nice with minimal wear, new ramps and seems to play ok. One thing I notice is each time the slings fire, the controlled lamps shut off. Just for a moment then return. Not sure if this is normal - or if i have some work to do.. can anyone confirm if this is normal Comet behavior?

Normal

Test continuity from the tab to the header pin, this will check for proken or burned traces or cracked solder joints on the transistor or header pin. If that's good then you are left with female connector or wiring. The IDC connector pinch point is a common area for failure on games with IDC connectors. Then you are left with pinched or severed wire, and if you still cannot find a visible break, but the wire shows open, you may be stuck with replacing the entire wire from connector to solenoid.

Perfect - thanks Vid.

So... you are correct, again!!

I tested the Q47 to 1J11 pin 1 and no continuity. To the problem is the board.... can I use a little piece of wire to "jump" from 1j11 pin 1 to one of the legs of Q47? Will that work.... or should that work?

Side note..... (the Knocker)I tested 1J12 pin 8 to Q60 and got continuity.

Thanks!

MM

OUT