(Topic ID: 227212)

Comet and Cyclone full restorations

By Tomass

5 years ago


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  • 297 posts
  • 29 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Tomass
  • Topic is favorited by 28 Pinsiders

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There are 297 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 6.
#51 5 years ago

Time to start matching colors to get ready to airbrush. I need to repair all this yellow.
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I will match it down here where it is still vibrant and unfaded.
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Here is a dab of straight yellow. I need to decide: lighter or darker? More orange or more green. This doesn't always work especially if you need a flourescent tone. This looks like it needs to a little to the orange. I will wait till it dries and coat in naptha to verify before adding any red.

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#52 5 years ago

When I get real close I sometimes use a picture to pick up small pigment differences that I cannot see.

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#53 5 years ago

Quite a ways from pure white. Do I match existing or repaint to pure white? Was it even pure white originally? I am thinking it is best to match what is here but I wonder.

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#54 5 years ago

After drying it seems too dark. Trying a couple shades lighter in a small mixing tray before adding to a larger batch.

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#55 5 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Quite a ways from pure white. Do I match existing or repaint to pure white? Was it even pure white originally? I am thinking it is best to match what is here but I wonder.

It was pure white when new.

You can be certain that it was not beige because the white ink went down first (like a primer), then all the colors went on top of it.

If Williams put beige down first, all the colors above it would be impure.

-

Only you can decide if you want it back to pure white like new, or off-white and **period** looking....

#56 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

It was pure white when new.
You can be certain that it was not beige because the white ink went down first (like a primer), then all the colors went on top of it.
If Williams put beige down first, all the colors above it would be impure.
-
Only you can decide if you want it back to pure white like new, or off-white and **period** looking....

Thanks! It will be tough to paint around all the words. I haven't messed witn waterslides either. I may keep the beige, but match what was under the mylar.

#57 5 years ago

You probably already know this but worth mentioning: squint when matching colors. Squinting really helps when matching value (lightness/darkness) and the final, subtle hue shifts.

#58 5 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

You probably already know this but worth mentioning: squint when matching colors. Squinting really helps when matching value (lightness/darkness) and the final, subtle hue shifts.

Thanks. I get the help of the others in the fam too. I am logging this, but I do not claim to be an expert in anything. Just enjoying the ride and learning as I go.

#60 5 years ago

Thanks. I actually replaced that one with a repro already.

#61 5 years ago

Did your Comet not have any Mylar? When I pulled mine up the playfield below looked real nice and would have been great for color matching. I hardtopped though, so no use to me.

#62 5 years ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

Did your Comet not have any Mylar? When I pulled mine up the playfield below looked real nice and would have been great for color matching. I hardtopped though, so no use to me.

The only mylar was around the pop bumpers and a piece was over the already damaged red circle.

#63 5 years ago

Gonna swap out u28 on Cyclone since I got the chip in the mail yesterday. I know it is far from ideal, but I have gotten fair good at using basic tools for board work. I have even had components fall out just using these cheap suckers. At some point, I will look into getting a proper setup with a desoldering gun.

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#64 5 years ago

I cut the pins on an ic though to help prevent damage to traces and such.

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#65 5 years ago

This was 1 hit from the sucker and the pin is ready to go. Not all are that clean but I love it when they don't fight me.

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#66 5 years ago

After running down the whole chip you can see I still have some cleaning up to do and this is where I lose traces if I am going to. I like to have my wife hold the pins while I heat it up with the iron but even then there are times that it fights me.

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#67 5 years ago

This one came out pretty clean. I was a little worried about the one trace between the 2 pins, but it tests fine.

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#68 5 years ago

Again, I am no expert and learning all the time. Pretty happy with the solder on this. Getting better with each project. This is another reason I am restoring lesser titles. If I mess up, it's not such a big deal.

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#69 5 years ago

Hep did a Williams Grand Prix that covered how he matched older colors around text. It was pretty interesting. It might be beneficial for you to check that out.

#70 5 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Hep did a Williams Grand Prix that covered how he matched older colors around text. It was pretty interesting. It might be beneficial for you to check that out.

Thanks. I will look that up.

#71 5 years ago

Ok, messed things up now. Had everything except sol 7 working. Was probing and must have jumped something and now I have no blanking. Sometimes if I hit the power it starts the blanking and displays say factory settings, then it all goes blank. Time to do some research.

#72 5 years ago

Seems coincidental as it works fine after resting. I will not worry about this since I plan on rebuilding the power supply. I swapped out u19 to see if that is why sol7 will not fire. U19 is normal during attract. In test on sol7, the input is low pulsing high, but the output is low pulsing to nothing. 2 seperate chips do the same thing.

#73 5 years ago

Well I am gonna deal with my lamp columns and sol7 when I put it back together. I want to get this playfield stripped since I imagine some of the colors are gonna be the same. Cyclone was in a pizza shop about a mile from my home growing up. Spent countless hours hanging out playing it. Was extremely happy to find one and I put cointaker premium leds in it a year ago. It had new rubbers, but we actually burned through a pair of flipper rubbers. At one point before it was accidentally reset it had over 2500 plays from my family. It has to be well over 4000 by now.

#74 5 years ago

I am definitely gonna need a set of plastics for this one. This right ramp is in bad shape but it is available. The blue ramp has a couple issues where the screws come through but that ramp is very hard to find. I will likely have to work with what I have.

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#75 5 years ago

My biggest challenge is gonna be how the grey has ages differently where mylar was.

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#76 5 years ago

Happy with the progress so far. Gonna pull the playfield at this point and get the last few items off the top.

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#77 5 years ago

Working on this playfield still. Found a couple hacks that will need to be remedied. This playfield has so much mylar it is gonna take 3 days to clean it off.

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#78 5 years ago

Back is gonna need a good scrubbing. Not sure what I am gonna do with the existing wires stapled down yet. Getting there.

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#79 5 years ago

Ready to see if this mylar comes up nice. Couple trouble spots that will need fixed already.

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#80 5 years ago

Mylar was coming up nicely but I only had a half can. Thought for sure I had another full can somewhere.

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#81 5 years ago

I really wanted to get down to this insert. Can't tell if it is cracked or not.

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#82 5 years ago

Ok, it is literally mylar on top of mylar.

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#83 5 years ago

Trying to rebuild this original aux driver board for cyclone. It had a newer systems board in it that was compatible. This board was mangled. Just got a load of tip36c's in to finish it.

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#84 5 years ago

The mylar came off real nice without any damage. On a bad note I do have a cracked insert. Not sure if this one is replaceable or not. Also the canned air I got this time had a bitterant and that stuff is nasty! Don't they consider legitimate purposes where that stuff is a negative?

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#85 5 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

After running down the whole chip you can see I still have some cleaning up to do and this is where I lose traces if I am going to.

Pull chip leads first then solder suck pads clean. The trick for the chip leads is to heat the lead until it moves then grab with pliers and remove. If you hold leads with pliers while heating the pliers will be a heat sink and cause you to have to apply a lot of heat and may damage the trace.

#86 5 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Pull chip leads first then solder suck pads clean. The trick for the chip leads is to heat the lead until it moves then grab with pliers and remove. If you hold leads with pliers while heating the pliers will be a heat sink and cause you to have to apply a lot of heat and may damage the trace.

Thank you for the tip! I always struggle at that point and pull up a trace or two.

#87 5 years ago

I didn't have much luck using the alcohol / flour method on my f2k, but it is really doing wonders on this mylar adhesive. I don't think I knew how to do right back then. This is about 95% clean without much effort.

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#88 5 years ago

Think I will finish this then go play some pinball!

#89 5 years ago

Actually did no work on my projects yesterday, mostly because I got stuck playing Diner. It just kept making press that button over and over. Anyway Cyclone pf is all cleaned up. Here are my problem areas that will need addressed. All this grey that has faded will be my biggest challenge. I will be waiting for the intercoat to come in. Used the last on Comet.

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#90 5 years ago

It looks like the gray isn't faded, it's yellowed where there wasn't any mylar.

#91 5 years ago
Quoted from LynnInDenver:

It looks like the gray isn't faded, it's yellowed where there wasn't any mylar.

Gotcha! Yeah, it is very discolored anywhere the mylar was not used. Gonna be a pain painting around all that. Still need to find that thread someone mentioned.

#92 5 years ago

Seeing the two next to each other makes me want to redo the grey on Comet. I imagine they were close to the same color originally.

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#93 5 years ago

The yellow is very close and it will work for both games. If I was not painting the whole thing I might tweak it a tiny bit. Naked eye seems on, but the pic shows the slightest differnce.

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1 week later
#94 5 years ago

Moving slow last couple days. Finally have all that mylar glue off and a final naptha cleaning on Cyclone. Ready to give it a blast of intercoat.

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#95 5 years ago

Moving forward! Just need to let this cure and then both playfields will be ready for the airbrush. I got a good deal on these hobby airbrushes. Got 4 in a set and tons of accessories and tips. Good for what I need.

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#96 5 years ago

Definitely following

#97 5 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Definitely following

Thanks!

#98 5 years ago

Comet is masked off and ready for the yellow.

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#99 5 years ago

Cyclone is now ready for yellow too. About to start a 4 day conference for work so it will be this weekend when I get to airbrushing.

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#100 5 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Cyclone is now ready for yellow too. About to start a 4 day conference for work so it will be this weekend when I get to airbrushing.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You aren't nervous about leaving the frisket in place that long? In my limited experience, the longer it's on the higher the risk of pulling up bits of clear or leaving behind adhesive residue. Or maybe you've found the holy grail brand of frisket that cuts cleanly and easily and doesn't suffer from these common ailments?

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