Comet and Cyclone full restorations

(Topic ID: 227212)

Comet and Cyclone full restorations


By Tomass

57 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 162 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Tomass
  • Topic is favorited by 20 Pinsiders

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There are 162 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 4.
#1 57 days ago

Setting my silverball resto aside and starting my winter projects, hoping to eventually find my list insert at some point. I picked up Comet this summer and had to do cabinet work just to make it structurally sound. Replaced a drop target reset finger and got it fully working. I have had cyclone for about a year and fully shopped it when I got it. It PLAYS 100% but the knocker and 2 flashers do not work. I am working through that now before a teardown. The cyclone has day 1 mylar and is in good shape. I am also repairing battery damage to a Pinbot and will be tearing it down along side these 2 in a different thread. I plan onclearing the 3 playfields at the same time to be more effiecient.

#2 57 days ago

Here is the comet when I received it.

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#3 57 days ago

I don't like overlays and I can't justify spending what a new pf would cost, so I will be doing a bunch of work to the comet. I picked up new ramps from Mark at freeplay40.

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#4 57 days ago

Here is cyclone's playfield. Looks good but there is a line where the mylar ends and the colors aged differently. Also it looks like someone "touched up" the in-lanes with sharpie possibly?

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#5 57 days ago

I had to fix this just to move it.

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#6 57 days ago

Currently I think my problem is coming from u28. I have a dead signal coming from it on the lines I am having issues with. I replaced u19 and the transitors and predrivers seem to test ok. Sr7 is out of spec on a few lines so I will replace that. I have the chip for u28 on order.

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#7 57 days ago

And that is a reflection on the last pic. I have 2 traces repaired and covered with epoxy to protect them. The opoxy is reflecting the light.

#8 57 days ago

I replaced one ramp and the feeris wheel is still in good shape, but the cyclone ramp was broken and I repaired it for functionality, so it will need dealt with. Same thing with the subway ramp.

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#9 56 days ago

Tearing down Comet while my other projects are waiting on parts. Center ramp in not bad but is cracked a little. I know this is not a ramp I can buy so I may have to work with it. The entry plate is beat up and the ball did not go over it smoothly so I will have to deal with that.

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#10 56 days ago

The spiral ramp is not too bad if someone was looking for an original. Has the usual corner issue but mostly in tact.

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#11 56 days ago

Not too concerned about the orange and yellow repaint, but there are a couple areas that will take some time.

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#12 56 days ago

And this...
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I am surprised it survived as well as it did considering no mylar.
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#13 56 days ago

Finding some broken plastics as I go.

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#14 56 days ago

This is the cleanest machine I have worked on. Well maybe my Rescue 911 is cleaner, but it's not like anyone ever played that game much.

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#15 56 days ago

I go way overboard as far as bagging and labeling.

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#16 56 days ago

Literally no way to go overboard on this

#17 56 days ago

All 3 pop bumpers have the metal plate broken.

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#18 56 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

All 3 pop bumpers have the metal plate broken.
[quoted image]

Mime did too.

I don't see a label on the apron or Comet ramp, so not too overboard.

Enjoying your thread! Keep it coming please!

#19 56 days ago

Top side is done. Time to flip and take the underside down to bare wood.

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#20 56 days ago

You can go so broke restoring C titles like these But I’m sure money is no object if you’re doin all this to these titles

#21 56 days ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

Mime did too.
I don't see a label on the apron or Comet ramp, so not too overboard.
Enjoying your thread! Keep it coming please!

Haha!!

#22 56 days ago
Quoted from pinplayerinva:

You can go so broke restoring C titles like these But I’m sure money is no object if you’re doin all this to these titles

It's actually the only way I can afford nice games. I get broken games for very little and spend some more on materials and put a ton of hours into them. I do the work because I enjoy it. These are also the games I grew up playing and the ones I want most. There is also a very small market for used games up here.

#23 56 days ago

Shoot, I clear coated a solar city for practice. And I restored an F2K playfield. I don't just a game by what someone classifies it as ( ie. A, B, C title). I enjoy the work and saving games that others might part out.

#24 56 days ago

This drives me nuts. Every game I ever deal with has these pounded down through by the flippers. Just why?

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#25 56 days ago

Factory. Those are the flipper alignment holes.

#26 56 days ago

I am less picky about bagging underneath. One for all plates, 1 for all lights, 1 for leafs and 1 for harness covers most of what I need. I have this lower part ready to slide over. I work from the bottom up following the main harness.

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#27 56 days ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Factory. Those are the flipper alignment holes.

Yeah but someone always pounds them down and cracks the underside.

#28 56 days ago

Boogie woogie woogie woogie

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#29 56 days ago

Bottom needs an initial cleaning, then I will put the siderails underneath. You can see the line just from 1 wipe.

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#30 56 days ago

Couple spots with mylar. The red 10,000 circle looks like it was added after wear had already started.

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#31 56 days ago

I blast the whole piece of mylar and then start to blast a spot and pick at it. Just a touch of the red came up, but that will be an easy fix. Time to start deep cleaning.

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#32 56 days ago

Lots of planking and swirls that will be tough to completely cover. All in all I think I have a good starting point for a playfield. Even for "this title" LMAO!

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#33 56 days ago

Well, that was a fun day's work. Time yo go play my Diner. Still have to print off the serial number stickers and a few small things but it is done.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diner-restoration#post-4615080

#34 56 days ago

Nice work so far don't let the supposed a,b,c titles bs bother you. It's your game you love it you do whatever makes you happy. I have got few of the supposed lesser titles myself as project games. I like them and that's all that matters really. Just in the last year the games are now being looked for because they were fun and don't cost 10k yet . As to cost of fixing games i try to stay in the land of normal as much as possible remembering there are other games to get also. But if these are you top favorites go all out. 3 Of my games i will probably never recover the money in them except in the 30 year term. I just get parts in runs as my budget allows.

-1
#35 55 days ago
Quoted from cp1610:

Nice work so far don't let the supposed a,b,c titles bs bother you. It's your game you love it you do whatever makes you happy. I have got few of the supposed lesser titles myself as project games. I like them and that's all that matters really. Just in the last year the games are now being looked for because they were fun and don't cost 10k yet . As to cost of fixing games i try to stay in the land of normal as much as possible remembering there are other games to get also. But if these are you top favorites go all out. 3 Of my games i will probably never recover the money in them except in the 30 year term. I just get parts in runs as my budget allows.

Thanks. Yeah, I usually will end up with less into a game than most people pay for a players game. I don't drop thousands buying a new pf / bg / decals / etc... I buy clearcoat in a 2.5 gallon batch total between clear and hardener. Between Cyclone, Comet and Pinbot I have well less than $1500 total tied up so far. I do my own board work and all mechanical repairs. The investment for me is the time. And in Alaska, the days are very short and cold in winter so it works out. As far as Comet: I will end up with probably less than $500 invested by the end. For Pinbot I will end up about $700 total. Cyclone was my most expensive game, but it was a game I absolutely love. I may end up with $1700 in that game, but I paid more just to purchase it. I buy all my parts and material in bulk when I can which also helps keep costs down. So for me, buying this era of pin only makes sense.

#36 55 days ago

following this one.

#37 55 days ago
Quoted from Bax1:

following this one.

Thanks. Believe it or not, these help motivate me to log my restorations.

#38 55 days ago

Using the light and naptha, I got all the old wax that was still clinging to the paint. I am just about ready to put a thin coat of clear down to lock in what is still good. Not sure if I am gonna use an intercoat or just mix up some 2 part clear. I'll know soon enough though.

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#39 55 days ago

1 nice coat of an intercoat clear. Now I should be able to use frisket film without pulling up this paint. Seems very thin in parts. I use circle templates and liquid frisket in an airbrush to make the black outlines around the inserts. These ones aren't too bad though. I think I will let this cure for a couple days and maybe work on the coin door or something.

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#40 55 days ago

These will need a bleach treatment.

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Believe it or not, these were just as bad at one point.

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#41 54 days ago

what is your plan for touch up?

#42 54 days ago
Quoted from Bax1:

what is your plan for touch up?

Gonna mask off and repaint the yellow, orange, white and beige completely after filling in wear spots. I may be able to get away with less work on the red and green areas. I tend to take days to match colors. I keep adjusting until I cannot tell the difference.

#43 54 days ago

These came out fairly nice considering.

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#44 54 days ago

This is uncharted territory for me. I have never had a coin door so clean. You can see a slight bend in the door. Not sure if I can fix that. Usually I get these and they are so dirty inside and out. I will need a new decal and repaint but not too bad. I imagine I will need new plastic plates too.

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#45 54 days ago

Sort of in a holding pattern right now. Hard to believe working on 3 machines. All waiting on parts and I do not want to move to the cabinet yet. Making a plan for touchup now. Here are my trouble areas. I will need to repaint all the large areas to cover up the planking and swirls. I will start to match colors over the next day or 2.

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#46 54 days ago

Reflowed this relay for cyclone. Insert lights would fade and return if you wiggle the connection. I will replace the connector too. Also looking into a whole column that us out on the lights. Its the lights around the mystery wheel.

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#47 53 days ago

Turns out it was the relay. I have a couple spare boards though. Put a new one in until I replace the relay. Messed a little with the column that is out, but no luck yet. Gonna call it a day though. I minimally do something minor to one of my project daily, with some exceptions of course.

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#48 52 days ago

I just finished repainting a Comet. Let me know if you want scans of the damaged car and crowd graphics. Are you going to do the gray field, too? I know it's a lot of work, but it really looks nice to get rid of the planking there too, since there's so much of it.

#49 52 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I just finished repainting a Comet. Let me know if you want scans of the damaged car and crowd graphics. Are you going to do the gray field, too? I know it's a lot of work, but it really looks nice to get rid of the planking there too, since there's so much of it.

I am going to hand paint the cars back in. I am not a fan of waterslide decals, mostly because I have very little working knowledge with them. I also do not have the equipment. I saw your playfield and it looks amazing. I would like to do the grey, but man that is a lot of fine detail to paint around. I will probably see how it goes and at least attempt to redo the grey.

#50 52 days ago

So I was reading the lamp matrix wrong. It was listed as mystery wheel but for some reason I thought it had to do with the actual wheel. So I actually have 2 columns out and it seems like the tip42's are to blame. Need to order some I guess.

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