Yes either of your suggestions will work, just mark them so you make sure they go back where they are supposed to and don't accidentally get installed one pin off or something.

If you're buying new connectors, get the little spacer pins too for the empty holes so you CAN'T install wrong.

And you actually only need a 9pin, the last 2 on the right aren't used.

Any of those options will work but I would avoid using 2 5pin connectors because you run the risk of someone connecting them in the wrong order and causing damage. You could also change to a crimped connector instead of an idc. That looks to be what someone did to the connector below the one you circled in the picture. I don't know if Molex part 09-50-3111 is any easier to find for you.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/09-50-3111?qs=zXrbR4Jv0OdVDtOYi5BwDg%3D%3D

If you go Molex (which IS the better solution) you will need a crimping tool also. If this is the only game you're ever going to own maybe not worth the investment but these things multiply like rabbits.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1026-CT

These are the spacers (keys) so you can't accidentally plug it in wrong.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=15-04-0297-STRIP

FYI.

Due to the sudden and unexpected death of my wife, I have lost all motivation to continue operations of Great Plains Electronics. GPE will remain closed until at least mid-July while I decide if or when to restart operations.

Added 22 months ago: Note: This message was taken from the Great Plains Electronics website. I was just passing the message along. Sorry for the confusion.

Sad news indeed about Ed's wife at GPE.

If you want to stick with IDC connectors, I can get you part numbers I use through Mouser.

Best way to do it is to use the AMPhenol connector crimper for the .156 and .100 IDC ends, but there's a manual tool that works ok also.

I’ve had to combine 2 smaller connectors before - I just glued them together and they’ve worked perfectly since. I did also draw a line across both connectors to ensure I could easily tell how they line up in the event they came unglued. But it’s been 5 years and nothing has happened!

Note: The message was taken from the Great Plains Electronics website. I was just passing the message along. Sorry for the confusion

I have used super glue to combine .100 and .156 Molex connectors. Since I am extra thorough I use sandpaper to lightly rough up the two edges that will meet, clean off and then use super glue. There are a few in my old EBD that have been holding together for years.

Yes, the connector needs fix and maybe the header. Have you converted this game over to LEDs yet? You should or at least swap out all the incandescent bulbs. If not, the problem will return. When incandescent bulbs get old their resistance goes up causing more draw on the given circuit. Eventually it become too much and the connector burns up. That is what you are seeing now.

I recommend replacing all 44 and 555 incandescent bulbs with LEDs. There is an alternative option besides LEDs, which is Comet Pinball's SMD retro bullet bulbs. They look and produce the same amount of light as an incandescent, but are efficient as a LED bulb.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/retro-smd-bullet-bulbs

Technically Comet SMDs are LEDs. The SM stands for surface mounted. The full name (in Comet’s case) is surface mounted light emitting diode. SMD is a manufacturing process that surface mounts different components to a PCB. The manufacturing process does make it a more reliable product. Comet and many other are using this process to make little light PCBs that fit within a pinball bulb. By no means does a SMD require a LED but in our pinball world it does. And yes, they are awesome.