(Topic ID: 257469)

Cold Storage

By Md2020

4 years ago


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  • 32 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by edednedy
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

Try as I might, my 900 some-odd square foot house literally has no room for the pin. Kid, wife etc... I put a 55w incandescent in the back of the box.
Will this fly for the playfield and backglass?
I’m in Washington state, near Seattle.
Ive done the reading, heard about the reptile heaters what have you.
I heat the garage up with a portable heater when I’m out here (built in thermostat ain’t worth a damn).
Is this lightbulb the best thing I can do under the circumstances? Should I not heat the garage at all if I’m not consistent about it?
First pin, I’ve put a lot of work into it, playfield isn’t perfect, but it’s not terrible.
Thanks everyone!

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#12 4 years ago

So I did a bunch of reading, and I went ahead with the Triple Thick Route.
Ffs, I hope I didn’t blow it.
There’s some “orange peeling” texture going on.
I watched about 4 videos on how people did it and tried to do it somewhere in between.
Anybody familiar with this? Is this bad? Lol.
There was flaking, and when I removed the backglass, it seemed to exacerbate the condition.
These photos taken right after the second coat

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#15 4 years ago

I’m just hoping I didn’t ruin it by doing the triple thick. I panicked when I saw the little paint flakes coming off, so I got a little ambitious.

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

I guess you don't have a usable basement?
My house is a hair over 1000 sq. ft with a full basement, subtract out the mechanical stuff down there and I've probably got about 900 sq ft. for pins, whatever.
Can you make part of the garage 'part of the house'? i.e. put up a wall and extend your heating/cooling out to it? (2 car garage to 1 car).

There’s an upstairs bedroom, but my wife’s got dibs on that. I built a “recording studio” in the attached garage, so that’s spoken for. I have a Hammond EM organ and Leslie that’s taking up a lot of space. The only way I’d be able to get a pin in there would be to get rid of that.
I’m already debating on that idea.
To be clear, even with the triple thick on the backglass, I should not have it in the pin if I’m going to be using it, correct? I’ve been playing the machine daily out in the detached garage, but I do not want to ruin it if I can help it

#19 4 years ago

So you guys are saying it should be ok installed on the machine? Maybe I could give it a couple days for the TT to cure and then reinstall it.
I hate pulling the glass on and off unnecessarily, feels like I’m disarming a bomb lol.
I play it every day and it looks much better with the glass on there.
I’ve just read horror stories about glass, TT, and cold weather so I wasn’t sure what I should or shouldn’t do

#23 4 years ago

Thanks for the tip. I masked off the bare glass for the score windows so I didn’t have to risk damage by scraping it off.
When I get back home today, I’m going to check to see if it’s “level” with the score windows or not.
In all, I think I put 1 light initial coat, 2 “heavier coats” followed by 1 panicked light coat

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from edednedy:

I don't use Triple Thick, so I can't speak to that, but don't believe all the horror stories you read about cold storage. There's no evil demon inside cold air that is set to destroy your backglass. I live in an area that can get pretty darn cold and my machines have survived for 25 years.
The evil demon - Moisture - lurks inside warm air. OK, maybe not so much in the Arizona desert but certainly in Ohio.
Cold air is drier. When you add warm moist air to it, the moisture will be drawn out and cause condensation. Just like it can do to the windows in your house. Rapid, repeated temperature changes can cause moisture problems.
The other problem is expansion and contraction rates of dissimilar material. In this case screen printing ink and glass. If they don't expand and contract at the same rate cracking ink can occur. This is minimized by slowing temperature fluctuation. In my case the temperature changes gradually with the seasons.
I don't play them much in the winter, but I have turned them on, played 2 or 3 games and turned them off to no ill effects. If you're really worried about heat from the bulbs affecting the glass you could always switch them all to #47 bulbs or, better yet LED's.

I ordered 20 led’s to get started with the backglass.
I ordered one box of 10 for the playfield. I’m going to clean each socket as I install

#25 4 years ago

Well crap. I noticed stuff coming up, so I sprayed it again. Now I see more stuff coming up. I may have essentially destroyed this back glass

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#26 4 years ago

All the areas where the “orange peeling” is occurring seem to be where the paint lifting has/will occur.
Help!

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Likely you sprayed too thick of a coat and it's lifting where the original ink had weak adhesion.... as it's drying it's shrinking slightly and that's what's pulling up the ink.
The key to triple thicking is thin coats to start and after the triple thick has sealed the glass, then the thick coat if you feel it needs it. Because of the risk of what's happening to yours, I no longer triple thick backglasses that are in decent shape to start with.

At this point, I think the best possible thing I could do would be to get the LEDS for the backglass, install it, and leave it alone.
I tried to save it and failed miserably. If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s to leave the old back glasses alone.
With the way the TT responded when I sprayed it, it reminded me of what spray paint does when it’s applied to a “dirty” surface.
There’s no way I would’ve had the balls to clean the surface first, although in hindsight I should have taken my time and tried.
I had a hard time going to sleep last night because of this, and this is going to be one of those things that will likely bother me until the day I die lol. I hate it when shit like this happens. It’s always when I panic trying to save something

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