(Topic ID: 12793)

Cointakers installation advice

By bigduke6

12 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 years ago by DrAzzy
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 12 years ago

    Putting in a full Led set in my T2. It seems straightforward. Anything I should be on the look out for? And what Are the opinions on undercarriage LEDs? I've only seen it on video, not live. Is it something that will get old over time?thanks!

    #2 12 years ago

    Test your bulbs every few you install. For some reason, the wires seem to need adjustment to make good contact.

    #3 12 years ago

    Ive noticed that sometimes the cointaker bulbs don't twist into the sockets easy. I have read that you can file down the little nubs on the bulbs to make them fit a bit better.

    #4 12 years ago

    I just did my NGG it was a piece of cake..did it in sections. I have one finicky light at this point all others are perfect. It was pretty easy. I think it looks great for the inserts...especially the colored ones...white can be a bit bright so go with the mini's in something that might be right in your eyes

    #5 12 years ago

    Oh looking at my video the #4 had issues before I put the LED's in...so piece of cake man do it!

    #6 12 years ago

    i have done all my machines with them on in attract mode. Maybe i am dancing with the devil, but I haven't had a problem in 6 machines done.

    The cointaker guys were working on their MM while on last year at the pinball showdown

    #7 12 years ago

    I take my ring off and do it energized as well

    #8 12 years ago
    Quoted from Anim8ormatt:

    i have done all my machines with them on in attract mode. Maybe i am dancing with the devil, but I haven't had a problem in 6 machines done.

    Same here, I like to know that the light is working and looks good right away...plus the attract music reminds me that everything is still working correctly.

    #9 12 years ago
    Quoted from jwwhite15:

    plus the attract music reminds me that everything is still working correctly.

    exactly, then at least i know the exact moment it wnt belly up and I can troubleshoot from there.

    #10 12 years ago

    It's just a tiny bulb....ever change a light bulb with the power on, I might be a little more careful with the 44's

    #11 12 years ago

    Have them on my WW. Look great and easy to install. The only issues I have are with 2 of my pop bumpers, the lights keep going out. But that looks like a socket connection issue. Oh and yes some of my PF insert light sockets needed to be moved a little and then the bulb lit up...dont fully understand how moving a socket 1mm helps but it got a connection then.

    #12 12 years ago

    I suggest you keep the power off. Granted you are just twisting out a few plastic sockets for a good majority of it(555) but better safe that sorry. For the 44's you are going to be using a nut driver for most of those..not worth shorting something. I did a section at a time..the fired up the pin to check.

    #13 12 years ago

    Once you short something out and have to start replacing IC chips...you won't change them with the machine on anymore...ask my friend Dave hahaha

    #14 12 years ago

    +1 the wires seem to need adjustment to make good contact.
    +1 turn the power off

    #15 12 years ago

    I find GI bulbs that have sockets flush or just under playfield are more easily changed out by standing playfield up and removing socket from under playfield. Faster too

    #16 12 years ago

    If you want to do it in attract mode, and don't want to risk trashing the switch matrix, just unplug the row and column connectors from the cpu board.

    The only thing you really need to worry about is shorting power to the switch column drive (other things take more aggressive clumsiness, and just blow fuses).

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