(Topic ID: 340180)

Coin mechs/Tokens/Switch not working. (Solved)

By NessD

1 year ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 months ago by NessD
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    #1 1 year ago

    Hello!
    I wanted to explore using Tokens for my Who Dunnit pinball machine and I'm kinda lost. The way I figured it is that the switches in the coin door down low would trigger a credit, but it does not. The left chute is also wired to the left door button and this gives me a credit. Is there something I have to set up for the switch to work?
    I thought I just 3D-print a little chute so that anything that's thrown into the slot would activate the switch and give a credit. According to the switch matrix it should light up in test-mode when activated, but that's not the case.
    Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance!

    #2 1 year ago

    So, the left switch works but the right coin switch does not work, when testing in the switch test mode? Do I understand this correctly? If so, check that the wires to the right microswitch have a solid solder connection. If they do, then most likely your microswitch needs to be replaced. Could also be a loose IDC connection at the coin door interface board or at the CPU. As far as Tokens go, you can buy mechs made for tokens.

    #3 1 year ago
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    #4 1 year ago

    Make sure your coin door switches are wired correctly. Sounds like someone changed wires if "The left chute is also wired to the left door button and this gives me a credit" is going on.

    You can check the switches in Tests - Switch Edge. Pin-Guy's picture shows correct wiring.

    LTG : )

    #5 1 year ago

    This is odd due to the intentional wiring of the coin switch to the door switch. Wherever a technician has done something strange it's a good idea to check out what else was done strange around it.

    So, check all the wiring as suggested.

    Particularly, the ground wire is daisy-chained from one switch to another, so if the technician cut the wire to a coin switch to wire to the door switch, he might have also cut the ground wire that needs to daisy chain to the other switch(es).

    However, whenever I hear coin switches aren't registering, I also want to check the CPU for any hints of previous battery acid (alkaline) damage. Anything grey, or grey-green? On the traces, the components, or particularly on the connectors that plug in? If so you might have connection problems at the CPU, or even board problems on the CPU.

    I'm going to bet that someone rewired your coin door and you don't have a problem with battery acid (alkaline) damage, but it's always something to check on machines the age of Who Dunnit.

    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinRetail:

    However, whenever I hear coin switches aren't registering, I also want to check the CPU for any hints of previous battery acid (alkaline) damage. Anything grey, or grey-green? On the traces, the components, or particularly on the connectors that plug in? If so you might have connection problems at the CPU, or even board problems on the CPU.

    This is a good point, and on a recently acquired machine you just never know what you will run into.

    Quoted from LTG:

    You can check the switches in Tests - Switch Edge. Pin-Guy's picture shows correct wiring.

    The easy way to eliminate the CPU as a potential problem is to simply remove J205 from the CPU and short pins 1 and 3 on the header to ground one at at time while monitoring in edge test; if they both work you know its a simple wiring issue.

    #7 1 year ago

    Thank you!

    I can pretty safely say that it's probably not alkaline damage. The machine was restored a few years ago from ground up and the cpu-board was changed to a repro-board. I cannot imagine that out of all the things that could be wrong only the three chutes are not working.

    20230722_102803 (resized).jpg20230722_102803 (resized).jpg
    These are the menu buttons and their wiring. One of the black wires from the chute-switch is soldered to the top.

    20230722_102911 (resized).jpg20230722_102911 (resized).jpg
    And just to be clear and me not being an idiot: Pushing this switch should trigger in the edge-test, right?

    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from NessD:

    And just to be clear and me not being an idiot: Pushing this switch should trigger in the edge-test, right?

    No, not when the switch is wired like this.

    #9 12 months ago
    Quoted from NessD:

    And just to be clear and me not being an idiot: Pushing this switch should trigger in the edge-test, right?

    Unless I'm missing something the door buttons appear to be wired correctly. These are direct ground switches and are easy to test; you will need to preform some testing by disconnecting connectors and using a jumper to simulate the switch in order to find out what works correctly and what doesn't.

    #10 12 months ago

    Pin_Guy Thank you, this might be the direction I needed as I felt lost where to start. What would be the best (and safest) way to jump the pins?

    #11 12 months ago

    Your coin switch wires need to both be moved down one spot. You need the black on the Ground contact and the orange on the Normally Open contact

    #12 12 months ago
    Quoted from gutz:

    Your coin switch wires need to both be moved down one spot. You need the black on the Ground contact and the orange on the Normally Open contact

    Quoted from zaza:

    No, not when the switch is wired like this.

    I see now what you are saying ... you are saying the switch is wired in a non-functional manner with one wire on the Normally OPEN (NO) contact, and the other on the Normally Closed (NC) contact.

    The reason the LEFT coin door button is giving a credit has nothing to do with wiring or other issues; this is the Service Credit button that was used by operators and maintainers to add credits to the machine.

    #13 12 months ago

    Ok, now I think I start to get a picture.
    So, the switches seem to be wired correctly to their right pins. It has to be something down the line not working. So jumping pins it is. Can I use a multimeter for this or just using wire or something?
    I'm a bit knowledgeable when it comes to electronics, just too scared of it

    #14 12 months ago

    Ok, got it! After jumping the pins I saw that the signal is coming to the CPU. Next I looked at the micro-switch on the chute and realised they where connect on the NC AND NO port. Connect it correctly and it worked!

    Here is a picture how it is supposed to be connected:
    20230723_135054 (resized).jpg20230723_135054 (resized).jpg

    Thanks everyone for helping!

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