(Topic ID: 208374)

Coin door picture needed for Meteor

By timab2000

2 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by timab2000
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

Topic Gallery

There have been 12 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_3619 (resized).JPG
IMG_3621 (resized).JPG
IMG_3624 (resized).JPG
IMG_3620 (resized).JPG
IMG_3623 (resized).JPG
20180126_155529 (resized).jpg
20180126_151208_001 (resized).jpg
mrelay (resized).png
20180126_130219 (resized).jpg
20180126_124404 (resized).jpg
20180126_123958 (resized).jpg
20180126_124007 (resized).jpg

#1 2 years ago

Hey I am back working on my Meteor, trying to figure out the knocker not working, again.

So I am going down the wiring diagram and it looked like the coin door solenoid was before the knocker, so I replaced it, and now that solenoid works, but sticks closed because I am not sure where the little spring goes that opens it back up, or even if I put it back together right. I put it back together the way it came out but it might have been mess with before so I don't know for sure.

If anyone can show me a picture of a working door so i can see if this is put together right I would appreciate it. Oh after doing all this, knocker still does not work, which bugs the crap outta me, but I will figure it out.

20180126_124007 (resized).jpg
20180126_123958 (resized).jpg
20180126_124404 (resized).jpg

20180126_130219 (resized).jpg

#2 2 years ago

this is nothing more than a relay coil. goes on the back side that you don't have pictured.

mrelay (resized).png

#3 2 years ago

Thanks for the diagram. I think I got the spring back on right, see picture, however it does not pull the metal piece back to open the switch so when I do a switch test off the coin door button it comes up as a closed switch. If I manually open it it's good, if that make sense. So maybe I am not understanding something on how this thing is supposed to work.

20180126_151208_001 (resized).jpg

#4 2 years ago

switch? there isn't a switch i know of with the coin lockout relay.

If you go into the solenoid test, when the coin lockout number comes up, put your finger on the relay actuator plate. You should feel the magnet pull in.
If it does, but it not pulling the coin lock bar, it's likely the bar is not gliding smooth because of corrosion.

If the relay doesn't pull in at all, you likely have a bad transistor on the solenoid driver board at Q19

#5 2 years ago

The solenoid pulls. I can see it pull that flat metal plate thing up against it, (top picture) but then it stays up against the solenoid.

So when I push the test button, switch assignment #30 somes up which is the coin chute #1 as a stuck switch. If I push that metal plate away from the solenoid I get 0 displayed in the match/ball and all is well.

So somehow that metal plate has to get pulled back somehow, I guess. That's the problem

#6 2 years ago

20180126_155529 (resized).jpg

#7 2 years ago

I guess that is why I would like to see an actual coin door from a Meteor or other game that uses the same door and mechanism so I can see what is is I am missing if anything.

#8 2 years ago

When it shows coin chute #1 as a stuck switch it is referring to the switch that would register if a coin was inserted. Its been awhile since I had my Meteor, but it should be the small black switch near the bottom of door. If no one removed them, there would be a coin chute switch for each coin slot on the front of door.
My understanding of the coin lock out bar/ solenoid is it stay energized when ever the machine is on so coins would register and give credits, and would be open when game was off so coins would just drop to the return.

#9 2 years ago

Ok I understand. I guess without having all the coin mechanisms in the door I won't be able to see how it all works, which is ok.

Thanks for your help

#10 2 years ago

If you don't have the coin mech's and you are not going to use the game commercially I'd just cut off the lock out coil and tape up the wires.

Hope these photos help.

IMG_3623 (resized).JPG

IMG_3620 (resized).JPG

IMG_3624 (resized).JPG

IMG_3621 (resized).JPG

#11 2 years ago

Agree with oldschoolbob ...

The coil you're looking at is the Coin Lockout, and it IS supposed to stay active - any time the game CAN accept coins. When it can't. (Max Credits reached, etc), it will deactivate. It should NOT activate any coin switch. The metal bar that's attached to the relay coil should go through the center of the door. Shouldn't be touching any switches or wires.

If you're using the game at home, and not going to accept coins, just tie the wires off - the coil uses unnecessary power, will get hot, and.. without any reason.

oldschoolbob - That's a very very nice coin door. I'm jealous.

#12 2 years ago

Nice looking coin door, Bob.

#13 2 years ago

Thanks for the compliments on the door but most people don't get to see that side.

Quoted from timab2000:

So when I push the test button, switch assignment #30 somes up which is the coin chute #1 as a stuck switch. If I push that metal plate away from the solenoid I get 0 displayed in the match/ball and all is well.

Timab, The switch list you're referring to is the dip switches on the MPU not the switches for the switch test. In switch test if you are seeing #30 on the display it's referring to Drop Target "T". Which probably indicates that target is down.


IMG_3619 (resized).JPG

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

Thanks for the compliments on the door but most people don't get to see that side.

Those legs are waiting for the same treatment

#15 2 years ago


Getting back to your knocker problem - first check that you have 45 volts going to the knocker - should be the green wire at the coil. If you do then jumper the other wire (black/yellow) to ground (just touch quickly to ground). The solenoid should fire. If it does then check the transistor on the driver board. (Q6). Jumper the metal tab on Q6 to ground (again just touch quickly to ground. The solenoid should fire.


The legs will get the same treatment - need to be sandblasted first.

#16 2 years ago

Hey Bob, Thanks for the suggestions. I'll work on that today I hope and report back. Thanks

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
From: $ 10.00
$ 149.95
Machine - For Trade
Evansville, IN
From: $ 140.00
From: $ 14.00
Third Coast Pinball

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside