If there is a coin lockout relay on the coin door, see if it pulls in. If one is there it has to be energized to accept coins, otherwise they fall straight thru.

LTG : )™

You say the coin goes thru the chute? When you put the coin in the slot it goes through the coin mech and drops out inside the cabinet of the game? If so, then it's working properly. If the coin gets rejected it's something wrong with the coin. If the coin gets jammed then there's something wrong with the mech.

Since you said it goes through the mech (based on your post), then everything is fine with the mech. The coin falling through the mech trips the switch at the bottom of the coin mech. If you push that switch actuator wire down by hand does it add a credit? If not, look to see if a wire broke off. There should be two wires on that switch. Also, there is a wiring harness from the coin door that goes into the cabinet and has a Jones plug connector at the bottom of the cabinet. Reseat that plug as they sometimes don't always make good contact. If that helps, clean the male and female pins and connectors lightly with some emory cloth to make sure it's clean.

If it still doesn't work, then we're probably looking at the credit unit in the backbox or a coin relay in the bottom of the cabinet that needs cleaned or adjusted.

I've attached your picture. Look at where the red arrow is. There should be a switch down there or somewhere where the coin falls through to add credits.

It may be an anomaly in your picture, but the blue arrow is pointing to what looks like a broken wire. Maybe nothing or just how the picture was taken.

The wiring harness is the green arrow. Follow that inside the game to the plug and reseat. Also, follow the wires to the back of the coin door to see where switches and lights are and see if you see anything not right with anything on the coin door.

Again it may be with something else in your game but eliminate a coin door issue first.

door.jpg

Hi Chillyh2o
You have http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=206 ? In "Notes" I read about "Non Replay-Version is Tropic Queen". So, Can You make "Replays" with Your Beach Queens ? and the Replay-Counter is up to the Maximum -> Coins are not accepted and you must use the Replay / Start Button ?

Coin-Lockout-Coil: It should be called "STOP-Coinlockout-Coil". Here a pic of my Williams Big Deal. To the right of "CLC": The "blue-ish" coil / Relay: When my Coin-Lockout-Coil gets current and gets active it pushes a rod to the right (You cannot see that rod). "Coin-Lockout-Coil NOT active: Coins are rejected". "Coin-Lockout-Coil active: Coins are accepted.

In ipdb I saw a pic of an flyer: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=206&picno=7780&zoom=1 -> Text: All "Queens" equipped with "Auto-Mission" Coin-Divider -> Google-Search -> http://bingo.cdyn.com/machines/features.html , question: Do YOU have such a divider ? Greetings Rolf

Wms-Big-Deal-Coin-Door-Work.JPG

The lock out coil is for when someone drops in a coin and the machine is off, the coin will come back into the coin return. That way no one gets mad that the game didn't start when it was turned off.

As schudel5 said look at the switch below where he indicated with the blue arrow. You should be able to trip that switch manually to get credits. You may have to remove the switch to get access to it. If it doesn't give credits when tripped then the switch is bad or a bad connection somewhere. You'll have to trace the wire back.

Bob

When you drop a coin into the slot does it come back into the coin return or into the coin box?

The coin mech is there to test if the coin is good - it checks size, weight, etc. If it's not a good coin it will go into the coin return. If it's a good coin it will trip a switch then fall into the coin box. There HAS to be a switch to tell the credit coil to trip. The switch will be s small plastic box with a wire trip lever.

IMG_2882.JPG

That's the switch to add credits we have been talking about. The actuator wire is connected to that brass post. When the coin makes it through the coin mech it pushes on the actuator and adds a credit.

To check the switch, get to the black and double green wire tied to the switch and short across with something metal. It should add a credit. The switch may be gummed up inside...and again it might be a coin relay or the credit unit in the game.

Jumper the black and double green wire. If it adds the credit then the switch is bad. If it doesn't add the credit, there's something wrong in the game.

I reattached your picture with the switch shown in red. The actuator goes into the chute and as the coin falls it pushes on the actuator and makes that click. That switch shorts the black and double green wire together to complete a circuit to add 1 credit.

412173-i.jpg

Hi Chillyh2o
have You ever checked the fuses ? After 40 years of use a fuse may "blow" just because of age. Look here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jack-in-the-box-wont-start -> the picture in my post-15 (do not read my text) -> my green Flashlight. I attached a wire on one side of the switch inside the flashlight and I attached another wire on the other side of the switch. I lead the wires outside of the flashlight. If I connect the bare ends "H" and "J": My flashlight will shine. If I hold a good fuse in between "H" and "J", the flashlight will shine. If I hold a "blown fuse" in between: The flashlight will not shine.

Whenever You work on a pin: PULL (UNPLUG) THE 110 VOLT POWER-CORD. My pic shows the Mech-Panel of an Shangri-La. The player stands near "C", "D", "E". At the Point-A the Power-Cord enters the pin and at Point-B there are "Solder-Points", other wires lead current / connection to the base of the transformer "D". Some pins (not my Shangri-La) have the "Main-Fuse (110 Volt) at the "Point-B". My Shangri-La has a stack of fuses at "Point-C". Danger !: One of these fuses (at "C") is my 110 Volt fuse ! And more fuses: 2 fuses for 6 Volt illumination and 1 fuse for 24 Volt "Relais and Steppers and Bumpers".
Does Your pin has tags attached to the fuses ? Maybe Your 110-Volt fuse and the 6-Volt fuse(s) are good - AND the 24 Volt fuse(s?) has blown (by turning off the pin that evening) ?

(110 Volt Power Cord unplugged !) Take out the 24 Volt fuse(s) and check the fuse(s). Do NOT only look at the fuse(s) ! Also check "are wires securely soldered-on on the fuse-holder" ? "Has the "fuse-holder" broken apart ?
If your fuses have no tag with text written on: Follow the wire(s) "E" (on top of transformer) to the fuse-holder - watch for same color on "transformer-lug" and "fuse-holder-lug".

I can write about "Coin Lockout Coil" after your pin runs again - at the "point we are now": The CLC is not the cause of the problem. Greetings Rolf

Wms-Shangri-La-Mech-Panel-Work3.JPG

Hi Rick
one problem is in the pin. Another thing is: How deep do You want to dig in ? If You come to a point where You say: "ENOUGH"; will You please write in the Forum "enough" / "I give up" ? Otherwise it would be very frustrating for me (making pictures and writing and waiting and waiting and w. ...).
I do not mind You writing "Enough" / ("No more Rolf").

You have checked the fuses - they are good, fine. A problem I have: You have played the pin, shut it off - and the next day: The pin is DEAD. Well, buying a dead pin and then working on the pin is normal. Strange to me is "You have played -> DEAD -> we work on the pin". To me (therefore): a fuse has blown or (maybe) a wire has broken off.
I want to be sure: "50 Volt AC is there". I want to check this (this whole post is about 50VAC ?).

Tools I use (see the JPG) - I have already mentioned my "green flashlight" ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jack-in-the-box-wont-start -> the picture in my post-15).
"A": A meter to measure Ohms, Amperes, "Volts AC", "Volts Direct Current" from K-Mart or so, around 10 dollars ?
"B", "C": The two wires of the meter with blank tips to touch somewhere.
"D": The meter MUST have a "knob to turn" to measure (either) "Ohms", "Amperes", "VAC", "VDC".
"E": In Europe we have 220 VAC (You have 110 VAC ?) in the "Power-Cord". We can buy (cheap) a little screwdriver with an "built-in lamp" to test "Is there 220 VAC available".
"F": Very smooth sandpaper (shining-paper) to clean contacts in switches.
"G": For to level the pin.
"H" and "J": With a small pair of pliers "J" I can set the gap on the blades of a switch ¬- but I use the "contact adjustment tool H".
"K": I use typewriter correction fluid to mark some points when I want to take apart a complicated unit.
"L": I like use a 9 Volt Battery to test "Is the coil of this relay good" ? - see: http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/emTips.html -> http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0124.html (great for relay-coils, not so great for Unit-Coils).
"M" and "N": I have spare Williams and Gottlieb relays to use - or I use a relay in the pin , see: http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0168.html - OR I USE A NEW FINDER RELAY "N" with "Gator Clips" "M". (A Relay is a (power) consumer - it can be used many times).
"O" and "P": I have several "Jumper Wires" (rather thick wire, different colours") for "Testing with Jumper-Wires". One Example to use Jumper-Wires: http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0399.html
"Q": I have many fuses of several different "Amperes". A fuse I can use as an "One Time (use) consumer" - I test "Do I make a short when I connect "PQ" and "RS" ?" -> I held in between PQ and RS a fuse -> the fuse blows -> Answer is "Yes". (I have more to say about fuses -> see text to my PDF, later).
"R": Cards I use to describe a "trick I did in the pin" - explaining what I did. Stripes of such cards can be used to polish the blades of a switch.
"S" and "T": Insulating tape is OK - handy are "shrinking tubes when heated with the solder-tool".
"U", "V", "W", "X": If I have to unsolder a wire somewhere in the pin (to make some tests) - AND it is very hard to get there (to unsolder): (I am beeing rude) I cut that wire about two inches away from the point where I should unsolder -> I mount for testing (and for ever after) a male-female Plug "U" into that wire. In the Automotive Departement of K-Mart and such stores -> Car-Electrics -> I buy some "V" -> with a cigarette-lighter I burn away some insulation of the cut wire -> put the end of the wire into and squeeze with a pair of pliers. I DO NOT USE BANANA-TYPE "W" plugs (they tend to fall off). Rarely I use connectors like "X" - used to connect lamps in the house to hook onto 110 VAC.
"Y" and "Z": When there is "just ONE wire soldered on somewhere" and I cut that wire -> See "U".
When there are TWO wires soldered on and I cut BOTH wires ->
Into the "Male-Plug" I put in the two endings and then sqeeze the male-plug (the left side of the scissors).
Into the "Female-Plug" I put in the two endings and then sqeeze the female-plug (the right side of the scissors - towards the relay).
I WANT THE TWO WIRES IN THE MALE-PLUG TO HAVE CONNECTION !!! (Even when "Male-Plug" and "Female-Plug" are not connected !!!).

Testing with Jumper-Wires (see PDF). In this post I do not explain the whole paper (this post is already way too long).
"10": Solder-lug on the transformer for 6VAC-Lamps.
"8": Solder-lug "common ground for 6VAC AND 50VAC.
"4": Solder-lug for 50VAC (relays and units) - not secured with a fuse - NEVER USE THIS LUG !!!
A wire runs from "4" to the fuse-holder -> through the fuse -> solder-lug-99. FROM HERE ON WE HAVE THE SECURITY OF HAVING A FUSE IN THE CIRCUITRY. When testing: Only use "99" (NEVER use "4").

Rick, look in Your pin for Point-"99" and mark this point with a drop of "typewriter correction fluid" (JPG-K) on the wood nearby. (When You need current-50VAC: ALWAYS / ONY use Point-99).
Take Your meter (JPG-A), turn the knob (JPG-D) to "Measuring Zero to 50 (or 100 or 200) VAC". Test with the tips of the cables of the meter: Point-99 <-> Point-8. It should read 48 Volts or 50 Volts. What do You read ? Please report.

Rick, for me to know - please look in the pin and report: Do You have tags on the wood, telling the name of a relay ? Can You identify a "Total Playmeter showing something like 027384" ? 5-Cent-Relay ? 10-Cent-Relay ? 25 Cent-Relay ? Coin Relay ? Start Relay ? Please write about these relays.
(For testing I would like to use the Coin-Lockout-Coil, but Your pin has none. As an alternative I would like to use the Total-Playmeter. As an alternative I would like to use the 5-Cent-Relay ...)

Or concentrate on the Coin-Relay - what happens when You push with a wooden stick (pin has current) gently onto the anchor-plate of the Coin-Relay ? (simulating: Coin-Relay starts pulling ...) Greetings Rolf

Tools-Work-1.JPG

Jumper-Cable-Tests.PDF

Hi Rick
I cannot enlarge the PDF in post-23.
I can look at the PDF by: "Right-Side-Mouse-Click" into the PDF -> Open link in a new window. This is strange to me, anyway -> print the PDF for a better view. Greetings Rolf

Hi Rick
great, we both want to work on the problem.
I am doing this not only for You - I plan to show my JPG and my PDF and my text in an german forum, "How-To-Section" ("Using Jumper-Cables to find an Error / Fault"). And You are my "experimental subject" / "test person" / "test subject" ...
Do not bother about the PDF - my text (to the PDF) is to come.

Yes, You can use a meter (JPG-A) to test "Functionality of the Coin-Door-Switch".
(Pull the Line-cord whenever you are working on the pin - plug in only for testing !!!). Turn the knob (JPG-D) to the position "I want to measure Ohms". Have the blank tips (JPD-B and JPG-C) apart: The meter shows no action. Put JPG-B-blank-Tip and JPG-C-blank-Tip together: Do You see "full scale deflection" / "pointer deflection" / "needle deflection" ?
Answer-No: Replace the battery inside the meter ?
Answer-Yes - That means: Between JPG-B-blank-Tip and JPG-C-blank-Tip current can flow (we are not surprised).

Put JPG-B-blank-Tip on a piece of wood. Put JPG-C-blank-Tip on the same piece of wood (near JPG-B) -> The meter tells You: Current can not flow.
Do the same with a piece of metal -> the meter tells you: current can flow.

Do You agree on the above ?
If "Yes" -> (Line-cord is pulled) -> hold JPG-B-blank-Tip on one side of the (free, no wires soldered-on) Coin-Switch. Hold-JPG-C-blank-Tip on the other side of the switch. In Post-19 You wrote "Cut a wire "orange-green" and "white". Hold JPG-B-blank-Tip to "Switch-orange-green" and hold JPG-C-blank-Tip to "Switch-white".
The meter should show: "No connection". If it shows "Connection": Please report.
With both Tips (still) having connection onto the switch: Turn that wire on the switch (a coin falls through) -> The meter now should show "Connection" (as the coin falls through and moves the wire of the Switch).
Please report "Switch-OK" (No-Connection -> Connection -> No-Connection (as the coin falls through)) - or:
"Switch-Not-OK" (No-Connection -> NO-CONNECTION -> No-Connection)

I am waiting to see a list of relays You can identify by paper-tags. Do Your Fuse-Holders have paper-tags with text written on (to identify the fuses) ?
Do You have some spare fuses ?
Do You have made Yourself some Jumper-Cables with Gator-Clips on both sides ? (You need at least two Jumper-Cables). (More about testing / PDF to come) Greetings Rolf

P.S.: a "regular" pin has (minimum) 4 fuses (Line / 6VAC-Backbox-Lights / 6VAC-Playfield-Lights / 50VAC-Relays-and-Stepper-Units). Maybe a pin has more fuses - for the "Reset-Coil-of-a-BIG-Relay-Bank", for the Coil-of-Zipper-Flipper-Action, for a special "Goodie" on the playfield ...
It would be great, Your pin has paper-tags telling "This fuse is for ..." ...

Hi Rick
I was looking in ipdb.org for a pin with a schema (in ipdb). (Better a schema of a "Pin about as old as "Beach Queens"" than NO Schema). I used the "Advanced Search" feature like:
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?mfgid=412&yr=1963&sortby=date&searchtype=advanced . First I tried "Year" 1959-61 but the result was just a list of games. So I did several searches (year 1958 / year 1959 etc.). These years Bally made "Bingo" machines and "Bat" games. I want a PINBALL-Machine with schema -> the best I could find is "Cue-Tease, May 1963": http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=612&picno=585 -> down to 7MB PDF Schematic Diagram: http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/612/Bally_1963_Cue_Tease_Schematic_Diagram_continuous.pdf .

Having a look at the schema "Cue-Tease" I got the information: DANGER, USE EXTREME CAUTION when working on the "Cue-Tease" -> "Beach Queens" is older and has very-likely the same (or alike) DANGEROUS circuitry: RELAYS AND SWITCHES OPERATED / OPERATING 110 VOLT ! Later games had only the Reset-Coil of a "Target Bank" operated by 110VAC. And later games have no Coil operated by 110VAC (for security reason).

This is the last time I write it - but I MEAN IT: Whenever You work on Your pin: First pull the Line-Cord (unplug it) - do not only turn of the main switch - Pull the Line-Cord !!!

By the way: Does Your "Beach Queens" has a "Main Switch" (underneath the cabinet / somewhere else) ?

Want to read about pins ? -> http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/ -> EM Games: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair
Very good: http://www.pinrepair.com/ -> 1930s to 1978 EM Pinball Repair Guide: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm Look at the videos, read whatever You want - start: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#fuses .
I like pinrepair, pinwiki and here are some nice tips: http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip_archive.html -> Electro-mechanical Tips: http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/emTips.html

Look at the "Cue-Tease" schema - A-1, A-2 ... A-5 to B, C, D, E, F, G, H-1, H-2 ... H-5 - All of this (left of the transformer) is operated with 110 VAC. Do You see ?: "2nd Coin Relay", "25 Cent Relay" and more / the "Replay Button Switch" and more / TWO FUSES in the 110 Volt Circuitry.
Interesting: I see a switch on the "Anti Cheat Relay" - see it ?
Rick, please look in Your "Beauty Queen" - Do You find a paper tag "Anti Cheat Relay" ? Please report. (A "Anti Cheat Relay" can cause "Pin is dead").

By the way: When You turn on / plug in Your pin: Do Backbox Lights / Playfield Lights turn ON ? Greetings Rolf

This forum was just called to my attention today. Quiet entertaining when "I'm the guy that repaired it in the first place". I'm always amazed when guys can fix things over the phone (as I have tried to fix other issues for Rickey...helping get the backdoor open, replacing lightbulbs, adjusting pop bumpers, basic stuff) or even look at pictures and see the issues. Only so much I can do for a guy and eventually I have to say "....look over the em repair guides and tread lightly! If it ain't broke, don't fix it...."

But I see you are having a credit issue and have no idea what has happened. You have owned it and played it for a while, and things can get out of line on a game from 1960. Sounds like a cop out...but it's like an old car with the same parts it had when it was built.

Here's what I can see from my previous videos of this game on youtube: can see how the wire goes into the coin mechs here:

Go to 1:08 and the wire feeds into the coin mech.

You might want to study how the contacts are on the credit reel in the back..... Go to 4:07 on that video. But like I said, tread lightly and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Joe

Hi Rick
great, Your pin shows signs of life.
Look at my (Williams-Shangri-La)-JPG and answer my questions -
"A" is my Total-Play-Meter - Do you have one ? (It would be a nice and easy "Relay" / "Tool" for testing.
"B" is my Score Motor - Do you have one ? To the right of "B" is a "Kick-Off-Switch" mounted, also look ->
"C": If I bang with my foot from underneath the cabinet upwards onto the plywood -> the bolt (see it at "C") will jump upwards and opens a Normally-Closed-Switch -> My shangri-La does shot off. Do You have an "Kick-Off-Switch" ?
"D" is a regular Relay. What are the names of Your regular Relays ? Please: All names (Tilt / Anti-cheat etc.).
"E" is my "Game-Over-Relay" - it is an "Interlock-Relay" - Two coils / anchor plates are working together / hand in hand. Do You have Interlock-Relay(s) ? Name ? (Game-Over Relay ?)
"F" is a "Relay-Bank" - my Shangri-La has it underneath the playfield - some pins have a Relay-Bank on the bottom of the cabinet. Do you have a Relay-Bank ?
"G" is my stack of fuses with Tags and text on: 6VAC Illumination / 6VAC Illumination / 24 VAC (Williams pins run on 24 VAC) / 110 VAC Line Power. Have your fuses tags with text ? What text ?

On the top of my transformer there are 4 lugs - on 3 lugs there are wires soldered on. The middle one "H" is the "Connection-back-to-the-Transformer-for-6VAC" AND ALSO the "Connection-back-to-the-Transformer-for-24VAC".
"J" is "Power-Outlet-6VAC".
"K" is the "Power-Outlet-24VAC" (on Your transformer ...-50VAC).
"L" is the Solder-Lug "Fuse-Holder-Side-Transformer" - a wire runs from "K" to "L" .I CAN SEE: THE COLOUR OF THE INSULATION IS IDENTICAL - IT IS THE SAME WIRE.
"M" is my often mentioned "Point-99" - the Point where I can grab 24 Volt Power (You grab 50 Volt Power) SECURED BY THE FUSE.

Rick, turn the knob on your meter for "Measuring Volts-AC" (NOT for Direct-Current).
For testing: THIS TIME Your pin must be turned "ON" - we want to find out: If and where is Current-6VAC AND if and where is 50VAC. DO NOT touch metal !!! Hold the tips of your meter on the Plastic-Insulation !
Put one tip of the meter at "H" (the middle lug of the three Logs with soldered-on-wires). Put the other tip (of the meter) onto "J" -> Do You read 6 Volt ? Do you read 50 Volt ?
Do the same test with "H" and "K" -> 6 Volt ? / 50 Volt ?

Do NOT DO Tests using lugs on the Fuse-Stack !!! FIRST I MUST KNOW: Where is Your 110 Volt (Line) Fuse ? I DO NOT want You to (accidentaly) connect 110-Volt-Power with 6-50-Volt-Ground. I DO NOT want You to to check with your meter "from-here-to-maybe-there-or-what-is-with-this-point ?".
DO ONLY TEST (meter is switched to "measuring VAC") "H" <-> "J" and "H" <-> "K". Please report about the measured Volts - and answer my questions ("A" ? "B" ? "C" ? etc.) Greetings Rolf

P.S.: This post I have written and afterwards I have seen post-29. I will study post-29 and the video and will write tomorrow (in Switzerland its time to go to bed).

Sh-La-Bot-Pan-3 -Work1.JPG

Rolf,
Here's some more videos for ya!

Plenty of videos for ya to look at and express what you think.
I'll just sit back and watch the show!

Hi Rick, Joe +
Rick, You should have mentioned https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-beach-queen-1960s-restore in post-1 / post-3 (as early as possible) - give us / me ALL information YOU have (me doing the "digging for information "pinside" / "google"" is not much fun).
Joe, it really is a pity - You did not take pictures before the restauration. I learned a few things from your videos (the "Replays" are more like a "Multiple Add-A-Ball") -> These "Queens" are (very) different to the known "Late-60ies /70ies Williams /(Bally) Pins (my first love: Shangri-La)"; the "queens" are beautiful, funny, interesting - but different.

I printed out the "Cue-Tease" manual http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=612 - I am frightened about A-1,2,3,4,5 to H-1,2,3,4,5: Relays operated by 110VAC, Switches (for Example Replay-Button-Switch) dealing with 110VAC (toggle / switch). Bally-50VAC also is dangerous. Rick, I do not want to "electro-cute" You (by writing): "Do this / make a connection with a Jumper-Cable from A to B / etc.".

Rick, ask Joe / http://www.pbresource.com/mansch.html for a schema. If you really cannot get a schema: Here in Germany they claim to have and sell http://www.jukeboxpinballandmore.de/schaltplaene_flipper.php#T -> "Tropic Queens", Impressum: http://www.jukeboxpinballandmore.de/impressum.php?sid=
"Tropic Queens" is "Novelty Game" - "Beach Queens" is "Replay Game" - better a schema "Tropic Queens" then none (?).

I do not want to proceed "testing" without a schema / knowing which relays, switches are opereted by 110 VAC.

Rick, please write about: Tags at Fuses / Relays ? Text on the tags ? What relays do You have ? Interlock-Relays / Relays in a Bank ? Anti-Cheat-Relay ? Readings of using Test-Meter (measuring Volt-AC) on lugs of the transformer ?
In post-30 You wrote: "Holding together (for a moment) "Orange" and "Green-White" will start a game.
In post-26 I have written about "testing the switch on the Coin Door with "Meter set for measuring Ohms"" - If the result is "No-Connection -> Connection -> No-Connection" (as You simulate "Coin falls through and moves the wire-on-the-switch): Then you can "solder-on" the wires "Orange" "Green-White" and play the pin by (always) throwing in coins and get You a schema.

Joe, (please) want to help with advice / schema ? - (I wait until I know "what is what" / "what is operated by 110 VAC") - Greetings Rolf