(Topic ID: 211174)

Coil Voltages & Power Supplies

By Geomancer

6 years ago


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  • 22 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Geomancer
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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    #1 6 years ago

    Greetings!

    Researching a project, and came across something that seems ambiguous (at least to me).

    Coil voltages. What should be used? I see things all over the place with this ... seems like some machines were 24V and others were 50V ... but this is where it gets ambiguous (for me) the same kind of coils were used. Is that correct?

    The 50V, apparently, gives more power which allows for a faster game, and steeper ramps. I understand that. But do these coils really support twice the voltage, which means twice the current, which means four times the power and not melt?

    It gets stranger. In reading another thread here a little way down the forum asking about power supplies, someone said they bought an Antec supply from pinballcontrollers. I went to that website and they only have a single power supply ... and it's 70V! Now, that website is all about using P-ROC (which I'm not interested in) so I don't know if they're doing something with that voltage (stepping it down)?

    What also peaked my interest is it was a 400W power supply which sounds very low to me considering, for example, an FL-11629 flipper coil is only 4 ohms. At 50V that's 625W and at 70V that goes up to 1225W!!! Now, I realize that's only for milliseconds until the EOS switch is hit, but on the flip side (ha!) the player can hit both flippers at once and on top of that it could be during multiball when other coils are firing. So.... something seems fishy to me?

    Along those lines, are all the coils in a game run off the same voltage, or do some of the others run on lower voltages (like pop bumpers, pop targets, slingshots, etc)?

    I was looking at getting a 50V transformer, which after being rectified would be ~47-48 volts. Close enough to 50. What I don't know is what VA rating I should go for. I was looking at a 1000VA which could easily do 20 amps. That's not quite the 25A both flippers would be simultaneously, but they do say at 60 Hz you can squeeze an extra 10% out of it just fine. 22 is pretty close to 25. However, that website selling a 400W (aka 400VA) one makes me wonder if I'd be going overboard. It's $50 vs $100 bucks, so twice the cost. Not exactly breaking the bank difference, but why waste money if it's not needed?

    Sorry for the long-winded post, I'm just excited to plan out such a project

    #2 6 years ago

    Twice the voltage means half the current. Power is conserved, not current.

    #3 6 years ago

    I'm confused. V=IR. If R is 4 ohms, like in the case of the flipper, that gives:

    50V = I * 4, I = 12.5 A

    24V = I * 4, I = 6A

    The current doubles, does it not?

    Since P = V^2/R, that also supports that a doubling of voltage results in a quadrupling of power.

    #4 6 years ago

    Games that use 50V (or 70V) use weaker coils to compensate.

    A common coil used on modern games for things like pop bumpers is a 26-1200, which is about 10 ohms. On an older williams solid state which ran on 25-30V there might be a 23-750, which is only 4 ohms.

    You can run the stronger coil at higher voltage to get even more kick. The coils need much more than 50ms to be damaged even at higher voltage. The super powerful pop bumper on TNA uses a 23-800 at 50V. The driver boards are another story...

    The power ratings on supplies don't really work out with such short bursts of power. You could flip 4 flippers at once and still not blow the average solenoid fuse (usually 5-8A).

    Williams used to use all 25V coils, but then they switched to 50V flippers. At that point they had a separate transformer to supply the 50V. Later still they added 'high power' coils that ran off 50V, while many coils would still use 25V (high power needed a beefier and more expensive transistor). On modern games (eg Sterns at least) they just run everything off 48V since newer mosfets can handle it, and there's much less variety of coil strengths since they can just adjust the pulse time or duty cycle (older games had very limited resolution for coil pulses).

    #5 6 years ago

    Work is what you are doing. If you push with twice as much voltage you need half as much current to do the same work. The issue is clouded by basing things around resistance. Leave the R out for now.

    #6 6 years ago
    Quoted from TimeBandit:

    Work is what you are doing. If you push with twice as much voltage you need half as much current to do the same work. You’re confusing the issue by basing things around resistance. Leave the R out for now.

    Yeah but you're not doing the same amount of work. Current is determined here by the resistance of the coil, so if the resistance remains constant and you double the voltage, the current will increase too, as well as the work done.

    #7 6 years ago

    True, me not reading the question properly. No wonder I do badly in exams. I’ll go back to LEDs now, hehe.

    #8 6 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    Games that use 50V (or 70V) use weaker coils to compensate.
    A common coil used on modern games for things like pop bumpers is a 26-1200, which is about 10 ohms. On an older williams solid state which ran on 25-30V there might be a 23-750, which is only 4 ohms.
    The super powerful pop bumper on TNA uses a 23-800 at 50V.
    There's

    Is there a chart or something that gives guidance on what coil to use for what voltages?

    #9 6 years ago
    Quoted from Geomancer:

    Is there a chart or something that gives guidance on what coil to use for what voltages?

    Not really. Just look up a game that uses a coil in that location and see what voltage it uses. The same coil that's used in a bumper at 50v could be used in another 25v game for a different purpose.

    #10 6 years ago

    Do most machines run coils off a single voltage, or do they have a mix?

    #11 6 years ago
    Quoted from Geomancer:

    Do most machines run coils off a single voltage, or do they have a mix?

    Modern Sterns at least just use 48v for coils

    #12 6 years ago

    Thanks for all the info and answering my dumb questions, I appreciate it!

    #13 6 years ago
    Quoted from Geomancer:

    What also peaked my interest...

    Piqued your interest.

    Carry on.

    #14 6 years ago

    Depending on what software / hardware setup you’re using you can pwm the voltage to the coil to lower it.

    #15 6 years ago
    Quoted from Mbecker:

    Depending on what software / hardware setup you’re using you can pwm the voltage to the coil to lower it.

    I think this is what JJP does with their flippers. Put them on 70v, but then always pwm them to varying degrees based on settings?

    #16 6 years ago
    Quoted from Mbecker:

    Depending on what software / hardware setup you’re using you can pwm the voltage to the coil to lower it.

    I've thought of doing that, but I like the idea of the flippers being independent of the MCU and having zero input lag.

    But, using PWM means the EOS switch is no longer needed. Tradeoffs.

    #17 6 years ago
    Quoted from Geomancer:

    I've thought of doing that, but I like the idea of the flippers being independent of the MCU and having zero input lag.
    But, using PWM means the EOS switch is no longer needed. Tradeoffs.

    EOS switch is still needed for the CPU to tell when the flipper gets hit hard.

    Pwm as a control of flipper strength and pwm as Stern uses it in place of a hold winding are two different things. Hold windings can swill be used with ss flippers (or you can do like data east and vary the voltage for the hold instead of pwm like Stern does). Or you could even do pwm strength control with an old school high power eos switch.

    I don't think flipper lag is something really perceptible to worry about, but even if you are worried you can do like data east and have dedicated boards (with no cpu to cause lag) but still have ss flippers (no high power eos).

    #18 6 years ago

    The lag is not perceptible.

    Using mpf, there’s no need for Eos. Same with stern. Both can define the time of the stroke in the software. At least that’s how my sopranos works.. has Eos but can just set up the menu to use software.

    #19 6 years ago
    Quoted from Mbecker:

    there’s no need for Eos.

    There's still a need for the EOS, but not for timing. If you don't have the EOS and the ball hits the upright flipper hard it'll fall down. All modern games have EOS, but none use it for timing.

    2 weeks later
    #20 6 years ago

    Geomancer... I used a solid state power supply 48 V x 20 A for about 1000 watt. It is a nice supply, fully regulated and all that. It is a Mean Well SE-1000-48 which on Amazon ran me $168. One of the guys at pinballlife.com suggested this kind of supply. I also picked up a capacitor board from Mezelmods.com and populated it with 3 large caps to allow additional surge amperage. See pinballmakers.com for instructions on this.

    Solid state supplies have their plusses and minuses. Plus: Regulated, and you can pot the voltage anywhere between 40 and 60 volts. It allows you to send it a logic signal to disable the power. Switching supplies are more efficient than bulky transformers. Also it will cut power if it senses a short. Minus: It has a fan that makes noise.

    #21 6 years ago

    This is a great site to understand coil markings and what they mean.

    http://www.pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html

    1 month later
    #22 5 years ago

    I just wanted to pop back in with an update. Part of the purpose of this project was I wanted to learn new things that I don't have experience with. I ended up deciding to build my own supply and through the process I learned quite a lot.

    One of the big things is I was thinking about the solenoids entirely the wrong way. While the steady state current usage of the flippers would be 12.5A at 50V, that's only once steady state is reached. At the start of the stroke, it won't be at steady state. I forgot the cardinal rule of inductors and capacitors. A capacitor can have instantaneous current change, but not voltage. Inductors are the opposite, they can have instantaneous voltage but not current. The solenoid, as an inductor, will ramp up in current. Bottom line is, 1000VA isn't needed. As a point of comparison, studying pictures of old Williams transformers I found they're rated for 750VA and they're providing power for everything in addition to the solenoids.

    Anyways, this epiphany came to me after I had already ordered the 1000VA transformer, so the 1000VA transformer it will be! The thing is massive in size and a hefty 18 lbs. Who knows, maybe I'll build 4 machines and power them all off this one transformer

    I built up a prototype 50V unregulated power supply and it worked wonderfully! The first time I turned it on. The second time tripped the circuit breaker. Ugh. Why? Inrush is why. Toroidal transformers have high inrush, plus the 13.6 mF of capacitance is just too much for a breaker to handle if you catch it at the wrong time in the AC cycle. To fix that, I added a 10 ohm 16W resistor on the primary. This limits the input to 17A peak maximum. While that's higher than my 15A breaker, the duration is really short (couple milliseconds) and most breakers aren't guaranteed to trip until beyond 135% anyways (and even then take a while). They only instantly trip on really high loads or short circuits.

    Now, you may have ballparked the math to realize that 17A through a 10 ohm resistor is 2890W of power which is orders of magnitude higher than the 16W it's rated for. Even if it didn't melt down, it would be a colossal waste of power. To counter that, I put a 48V relay in parallel with the resistor that once the output voltage rises to ~36V will switch on and the resistor is then bypassed. This all happens in a couple milliseconds, so the resistor doesn't even get hot.

    The other thing I failed to realize at first but did before I ordered the transformer, is that I forgot these are all rated at RMS values and not peak. So a 50V transformer really would have been 1.414 times higher (70.7 volts). So really I only needed a 115V/35V transformer. Since US power is 120V it works out to be 51.6 volts peak. The bridge rectifier then drops that down to nearly 50V.

    I'd like to once again thank everyone who popped in with suggestions.

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