(Topic ID: 58326)

Coil Testing Help Needed - *Fixed*

By mkgort

10 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by mkgort
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 10 years ago

I am working on a WWF that is having problems with the back panel diverter. The previous owner had accidentally shorted the two wires coming into the 32-1800 coil. This, of course, caused multiple problems upstream. Transistors and fuses were replaced, but still no luck with the diverter. I suspect the coil is toast, but I want to make sure.

I am getting voltage to only one lug, which I have read is a good sign the coil is bad. But, why does the coil ohm out correctly? I get 51 ohms (proper for this coil).

Is this contradictory?

Thanks!

-MK

#2 10 years ago

Did you try grounding the metal tab on transistor that drives it ?

If the coil fires, then you know from the transistor legs to and including the coil is good. And then your problem would be from and including the transistor and upstream the other way.

LTG : )

#3 10 years ago

Thanks for the input.

Just did the test. The coil did not fire. Also traced both wires back to the board and have continuity on both.

-MK

#4 10 years ago

Bad coil at least.

LTG : )

#5 10 years ago

I would agree. But, is it normal for a bad coil to ohm out to spec?

-MK

#6 10 years ago
Quoted from mkgort:

I would agree. But, is it normal for a bad coil to ohm out to spec?

No idea, but you have to start eliminating somewhere. And grounding transistor should have fired that sucker.

LTG : )

#7 10 years ago

Thank you for the info!

I think it's time to go shopping

-MK

#8 10 years ago

Another test is to ground the coil with a test wire on the non-banded diode side...Should fire. If it doesn't then you either don't have power or the coil is bad. However, it's odd that you measure voltage on one lug of the coil, not the other, yet measure the proper resistance. Something doesn't jive there. Are you disconnecting the coil when measuring the resistance? You could be measuring something in parallel with that coil.

#9 10 years ago

Hi Robert. I did both tests just to be sure. Grounded the transistor tab, and grounded the non-banded lug. No joy. I have measured the coil in and out of the game, with and without the diode (even with and without the wires soldered on). The driver and pre-driver were replaced (Tip 102 for the tip122). All other coils and flashers are functional.

Thanks!

-MK

#10 10 years ago

Very strange. You should see voltage on both lugs of the coil. If not you can assume it is open (bad).

Pull the wrapper off of the coil and check the winding. Sometimes if it is busted right at a coil lug you can scrape the insulation off the winding and resolder it back down.

#11 10 years ago

Thank you all for the input.

I replaced the coil, transistor, and pre-driver, they all tested OK with the MM. I assume at this point I should be looking at the 7408?

I appreciate any thoughts.

-MK

#12 10 years ago

After you replaced them all, are you able to get the coil to fire by grounding the transistor?

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

After you replaced them all, are you able to get the coil to fire by grounding the transistor?

I completely forgot to mention: now the coil just locks on. I've got the board pulled and I'm going to recheck my work and may just re-replace the transistor and see what happens.

Thanks!

-MK

#14 10 years ago

Replaced the 7408 and all is well!

Thank you for the input.

-MK

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