You will need a new coil and sleeve and find out why it burned up

Compare your 5.9 ohms reading to the expected value. I use https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html and https://www.pinballmedic.net/coilchart.html to find the expected resistance.

Also double check with your manual and/or the other two pop bumpers that the correct coil is installed.

Those are great resources, thanks @yeoldpinplayer!

It is likely physically distorted. It can even measure correctly but you will likely not get a sleeve in it again, or a plunger to fit correctly. Keep in mind, the melting point of the nylon is far lower than the temperature required to destroy the varnish on the magnet wire.

Let us know how it goes! Hope you get it up and running soon.

Andrew

If the solenoid tests good, the right Ohms, and you can find out why the solenoid overheated in the first place and fix the problem, you can rescue the solenoid. Note, however, that there may have been damage done to the solenoid that would make it easier to fail if overheated again.

This won't work with metal sleeves. If I find an overheated solenoid with a metal sleeve I replace the solenoid and sleeve.

I take a small screwdriver and put it between the sleeve and solenoid casing. I then pry and break as much of the sleeve as possible, working from both ends. I then put a drum sander attachment on a Dremel tool. I slowly sand off the part of the sleeve that has been fused to the solenoid. You will need a bright light so you can see how much you are sanding off. Usually the sleeve and solenoid are different colors so you will know when you have sanded all of the old sleeve off. You don't want to sand the solenoid plastic. After all of the sleeve has been removed, sand the inside of the solenoid with a finer sandpaper to smooth the wall of the cylinder and then clean. Both solenoid and sleeve should be clean and dry. Try putting in a new sleeve. Use absolutely no WD-40 or oil to help get the sleeve in! If it hangs up, you will need to find where it hangs up so you can do more sanding. Don't force the sleeve in! You won't be able to remove it. Often the inside wall of the solenoid will bulge and require some sanding, but test putting the sleeve in often. You don't want to remove too much of the solenoid inner wall - there's wires under there!

This technique is good for saving original parts, for people who need to get a pin working ASAP and for those of us who are too cheap to spend the money on a new solenoid. For others, buying a new sleeve and solenoid is the best solution.

I would suggest a new coil and investigation into why it overheated in the first place. I have re-used overheated coils that ohmed out ok on a meter, and after a few more cycles the coil shorted out. Likely due to the insulation already being partially compromised. Lesson learned there.

Sounds like a plausible situation, if the transistor failed the solenoid would’ve been locked on. The fuse is probably unrelated because the fuse should’ve popped long before that coil started getting that hot. I agree with everyone else though.
Find root cause, then replace.